Thanks for sharing

That's just how the factory fluid is. I changed mine at 50k and it was dark too. May very well be intentional to scam people at the dealerships.

Did it make a difference in the way it shifted ?

@@seinfan9 They say its lifetime fluid. Im pretty sure they just say that because if you swap the transmission fluid on a dirty gearbox then you can make things even worse so they don't want to annoy customers with fluid changes and they don't want to be responsible for trashed gearboxes.

@@derpinbird1180 It is lifetime fluid for the transmission, after factory warranty expires they don't care if your transmission breaks down at 100k miles so it's better to change it every once in a while but just don't flush it

Need to change it more than once. To get more fluid out.

Glad to help!

ismiv23 what year you got and what kind of fluid you used?

@@FrenchHawk878 Skyactiv Mazda's all use ATF-FZ, its specifically made for Mazda so the OEM version is the most common you can get it from any Mazda dealer about $15-20 a qt, Amazon sometimes has it or you can use Ravenol ATF-FZ. OEM Mazda and Ravenol are the only legit makers of ATF-FZ at the moment.

@@FrenchHawk878 personally I'm going to do this to my 2014 Mazda6, but I'm going to use the Ravenol ATF-FZ as its made in Germany and is a full synthetic. Its been suggested online that Ravenol is likely the maker of OEM Mazda ATF-FZ Ravenol ATF-FZ www.blauparts.com/ravenol-atf-automatic-transmission-fluid-fz-1l.html I'm also going to give their synthetic motor oil and, brake fluid a try in the future.

DJxSlacker thanks for the info, is there any benefit to using the Ravenol compared to the OEM if they’re both priced the same? I hear in the auto industry that the name brand (Ravenol, Mobile, Pennzoil) has better quality than the OEM ones - even if they’re made by the same manufacturer, but that could just be rumors.

Glad to help.

This wasn't a flush, just a change

I Changed the fluid multiple times.

This is all you can do, rustynuckles, unless you remove the transmission and drain the converter. It's a drain and fill, not an overhaul.

If you flush the system you run the risk of the transmission slipping. Source (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pZxpY6eg29CocZc.html)

How do you get access to the hole/bolt without removing the air intake? From underneath or you just unscrew it at all angle?

I unscrewed it from underneath@@Nexxorcist

@@louishauburger7702 this is exactly what I did, I unscrewed the 10mm bolt from underneath, then used two funnels, one smaller one from the bottom and a longer one up top and it worked great, didn't have to remove the airbox. finished filling, reinstalled the dipstick and 10mm bolt and done.

Pj McCartney No problem. There is one step I forgot to mention when pulling out the air box don’t forget to unhook the maf sensor connector that you see hanging there in the video. If you get stuck and have any questions just write a comment I’m usually fast at responding. If you haven’t already like and subscribe for more videos like this.

Pj McCartney Just got my transmission fluid lab report yesterday and it said “This is the first oil change for your Mazda's transmission, so the extra metal isn't a big surprise. Most of it is from the initial wear-in process, along with normal accumulation over the last 100,191 miles. It might take a few oil changes, but this stuff should wash out and your wear levels should resemble universal averages eventually. Those averages show typical wear after ~28,600 miles of oil use. No contamination was detected and at trace of insolubles is normal for used transmission oil. The TAN shows mild acidity at 1.5. Try going 20K-40K miles and check back.”

BTW thanks for sharing this video, might look into doing it myself next time👍

Did you change the fluid yet?

@@DifferentSubjects yes I dis, the fluid was dirty and black. Glad I changed it. It's def not lifetime as mazda says.

I have a 2014 mazda 3 and it's awesome but def change fluid

I looked through the entire 2016 Mazda 3 manual. The only mention of the transmission fluid was in the back where it specified FZ fluid, but no mention of change frequency or anything like that anywhere. Bad practice on Mazda.

Same thing with the 2012. The manual says to check to make sure the fluid is there, but nothing about changing it.

They want you to do it at the damn dealership. They don’t want people saving money and working on their own cars 🙄🙄

Lol

Lol

Noushad Siddique I asked a couple of mechanics at the Mazda dealership if I should change the filter and they both said just change the fluid so that’s what I did.

@@DifferentSubjects Ok sounds good. Thanks Again!

No problem if you have anymore questions feel free to comment on this video again.

@@DifferentSubjects i don't trust mechanics. if they say you don't need to change it, i'm gonna change it hahaha

I would highly recommend replacing the filter as well. Unlike many other auto trans these have a real filter instead of just a screen. I would recommend replacing fluid and filter at least every 60k miles. Personally, I do it every 30k miles.

Finest you got it

its the same

@@royaldeguzman3446 Thanks.

No

Automatic

No gasket, not sure about a washer

@@DifferentSubjects I did this a few days ago and can't remember if there was a washer, or if I forgot to put it or even lost it! Thanks

Carlos gil de montes I put 3.5 quarts of transmission fluid back into the transmission after draining it.

MrFixIt thank you

No problem

I used the same amount of fluid

I’m not sure.

Watch the video again with your eyes opened.

I did not replace the crush washer or drain plug.

There’s a bolt on the dipstick that you have to remove before you’re able to pull it out.

@@DifferentSubjects he showed the bolt and I removed it. My dipstick was stuck and i had use flat screw driver from the bottom of the car and force it to be removed. Thanks for the reply.

No, I poured the fluid back into empty bottles

2016 Mazda 3 2.0L

A&W Cream Soda the mechanics at the Mazda dealership told me not to change the filter.

I was thinking the same thing. My game plan is to do a drain and fill until all new fluid is in my transmission. After that I will replace the filter

@@StewieStew820 Same,I think I will drain and fill twice in order to get all the old fluid out of the torque converter. Look up type fz tranny fluid on Amazon and you can find 3rd party fluid a bit cheaper than the OEM Mazda fluid

@@awcreamsoda7978 Most definitely, I went to my local Mazda dealer and bought some. It ran about the same price as it is on Amazon.

Did you replace the drain plug crush washer?

You can't get all the fluid out at once since the torque converter holds about half that full 8.-8.2 quart capacity. You would change out what you can and refill then drive around shifting gears for a good 10 minute drive then let cool, drain and refill again. it mixes some of the old with the new but this is the traditional way of changing out automatic transmission fluid. you get most of it changed out this way. only way to get it all out is to take out the torque converter and drain it as well. that would be a total pain to get out.

Gary Cambron I would check in your owners manual and if you don’t have one you can call the dealership and ask.

Red Falcon thanks for the advice but I don’t believe it’s necessary. Maybe at 200k I’ll do that.

MrFixIt I found my magnet is full at 90 miles , I know it’s a big thing to do but it’s really required !

What magnet? The drain plug?

MrFixIt it’s inside the oil pan

Red Falcon I didn’t know there was a magnet inside the oil pan I’ll have to drop the pan and clean it then. Did you use RTV or a dealer bought gasket when you put it back together?

Because Mazda says that the transmission has lifetime fluid and doesn’t need to be serviced.

Yeah it has to be running with the fluid between 113-131F. The service procedure states 122f. It just needs to be the low and full marking on the dipstick.

I just did my sons 2017 model over the weekend, got 3.5 qts out, put the same amount back in. Shifted through all the gears, then drove the car around that day for about 50 miles then did another drain and fill, drove around about 100 miles over three days then did a third drain and fill. Fluid is very clean now and the car shifts way better.

@@CoachClyde you replaced the filter or just drain fluid?

@@sebbbou5455 I just did a drain and fill cycle, I didn't drop the pan. It's not actually a filter, it's a screen. It can be replaced but after talking to a Mazda tech, I was comfortable just getting as much fresh fluid in as I could.

@@CoachClydegood thanks! I will do the same!

BreadAndGatorade you can use an Allen key

@@DifferentSubjects yes, your video is very misleading and will discourage many. I used an 8mm hex. Actually just an hour ago. No problem.

I will update my video when I get a chance.

@@DifferentSubjects my 2018 has a T50, not a hex. I think they changed it from a hex at some point.

@@isodoug I was wrong, it's a hex not a t-50.

I got to 229,906 miles before someone rear ended my Mazda and totaled it, never changed the transmission filter.

sherlock tang There isn’t an interval It’s supposed to be lifetime fluid but after sending mine to the lab I would recommend changing it somewhere around 60,000 miles

80K

Mechanics recommend 60K miles

In Eu. There are 180k km with mechanic switcher.

freeosiris 01 unfortunately the only way I know to drain all 8.2 quarts at once is to do a transmission flush which forces out all of the fluid and from what I heard it can ruin the transmission by doing that. I highly recommended doing multiple drain and fills if you want to keep your transmission in good shape.

@@DifferentSubjects Ohhhh ... good point. BUT, before buying the 8 bottles right now (hahaha) ... A. For multiple drain and fills, I must done it between one month? (3-4 sessions or weekends, maybe?) Or, B. I have to buy X amount of bottles to ensure 8.2 quarts (like 3.5 the first drain, 3.5 the second and 3.5 the last one. In grand total 11.5 quarts = 12 bottles) And see if the last drain ins't dropping new fluid? Hope you have an answer. Thanks for the reply!!

I would just buy 4 bottles for now and do the drain and fill. Then buy the rest another time when you have the time to change it again.

@@DifferentSubjects Thanks for the answer. It helps me a lot. I have not found another video like yours that shows the steps to do it. Thank you a lot.

No problem. If you run into any issues don’t hesitate to ask. If you can Like and subscribe it helps. Thanks.

Yes

Automatic

I wouldn’t

I have used Valvoline Max ATF on my wife's Highlander and was very impressed. Shifts were smoother (even she noticed). I plan on using it on my 2016 Mazda 3 and 2017 Mazda 6. It is FZ rated so I have no worries. I personally doubt that OEM FZ fluid is all that special. It's been out for a long time and it's very hard to find any details on what makes it unique. I suspect that it's garden variety, overpriced, colored fluid. Also, in order to change most of the fluid, the above procedure should be performed 3 times, separated by a drive and shifting through all gears. Each drain and fill changes about 1/3 of the total fluid so 3 are needed to replace 90%. That adds up to 12 or so quarts...crazy expensive for Mazda fluid, but much more reasonable with Valvoline.

Automatic

unscrew all the bolts holding it down.

Automatic

Yes there is when you drop the pan.

yap xw 3.5 quarts of transmission fluid came out.

4

Alex B so far I have driven 3k miles after the transmission fluid change and there hasn’t been a single issue. You do have to keep in mind my transmission has never had any issues though. What year is your Mazda?

@@DifferentSubjects Its 2016 as yours, for the past few weeks ive been having some hard gear switches, but i keep telling my self that its because of the cold whether.

Fingers crossed 🤞🏻if it doesn’t do it often you should be fine. If you’re really worried about it you can siphon 3 oz of fluid out of the transmission fill tube and send it off to www.blackstone-labs.com/engine-types/transmission/ for a fluid analysis and ask them in the comment section on the paper if it’s safe to change the fluid.

Just got my transmission fluid lab report yesterday and it said “This is the first oil change for your Mazda's transmission, so the extra metal isn't a big surprise. Most of it is from the initial wear-in process, along with normal accumulation over the last 100,191 miles. It might take a few oil changes, but this stuff should wash out and your wear levels should resemble universal averages eventually. Those averages show typical wear after ~28,600 miles of oil use. No contamination was detected and at trace of insolubles is normal for used transmission oil. The TAN shows mild acidity at 1.5. Try going 20K-40K miles and check back.”

@@DifferentSubjects Thanks man, I am going to change my transmission fluid these weekends (60K Kilometers) Checked my fluid, its brown going to dealership to purchase automatic trans fluid, and ill change it my self.

2x speed if normal is too slow for you.