Can't believe that oil catcher didnt overflow!...ppl are freaked out about "the tick". Got my z13 merch today, prob wear it in tomorrow's upload. Great vid as usual

I've been using motorcraft in my 2000 gt since i bought it. Over 310,000 miles and still going strong

I switched to 5w-30 when my 15 GTPP developed a tick, even before its first oil change. Even after 16k miles later, I never heard it again. Figured if its good enough for my TT Explorer Sport, more so on a n/a 5.0. Piston slap is a consistent tapping...tick is intermittent, 2 different things. Slap is normal for these motors due to the cylinder lining process used by Ford...the tick however, is not. As long as it isn't too late, using 30 weight oil should alleviate the issue IMHO.

Finally someone who doesn't buy ten 1 quart bottles 👍

I never knew they recycled regular oil! Learn something new every day. Always synthetic!! Thanks for the vid brother.

To make it a little clearner try popping a hole in the bottom of the oil filter and let it drain for about 15-20 minutes. This way you have less oil getting on other parts. At least, that is what I do on my 2021 Mach 1.

You need a pair of Rhino ramps. You can hang them up out of the way near garage door when not in use. So much easier than jack stands for simple stuff like oil changes.

I switched to Amsoil(10W30racing--no winter driving)...amazing oil. I noticed a difference right away. I put their trans oil in my T56 Magnum too...shifting has never been smoother!

You HAVE to use the recommended weight oil. I consulted with an Engine builder who builds race engines for a living, on these and the 4.6 , the tolerances are so close, to thick and oil will not flow as should. Plus, the oil is the bearing in some areas of the engines. He had rebuilt several engines because people thought they were doing good to run heavier oil and that caused the problems.

Aussie GT owner here. All our cars run 10W-30 with no issues.

Fun tip, when your pour the oil into your engine turn the container on it's side, makes it much easier due to the air pressure. Nice job!

Thanks, mate. Really informative. Been working my ass off through this crappy year to keep up with my goals of buying a GT the beginning of this summer and am really looking forward to doing routine maintenance myself. liked and subscribed.

Thanks for the information I'll be changing my oil for the first time at 5000 miles I'll be using 5w30 full synthetic. And I'll do it myself and know it's done right.

I'm in Australia and have a 2017 GT, therefore the engine tick issue is not a problem as the 2015-2017 coyote motors have cylinder sleeves. Regarding the engine oil viscosity, the Ford dealers here use 5w20 but if you go to any auto parts store, the recommended oil is actually 5w30 not 5w20. I have visited all our major auto parts retailers and every one of them shows 5w30 as the recommended oil. The recommended service interval by Ford here is 15,000 kms, but i am doing intermediate services at around 7,000kms and taking it to Ford for the normal service interval as we also have a capped price service deal. Love my car, love the channel. Cheers Zander....👍

Changing mine next week. After watching this I've decided to jump up to the 5w30 as well. I don't track mine yet but I drive it like I stole it. Don't have the tick but it seems like a lot of guys that do seem to get rid of it after going from 20-30. Glad to see Carnage out of the shop. She's looking good!

Thanks for the heads up, I also have a 2019 with no tic tic as of yet. It’s almost time for an oil change and will do exactly what you have done. Great video brother exactly the information I needed.

I do mine every 3500 with full synthetic , I have a 17 , but I'm not giving it any excuse to start making any funny noises . Good video bud .

Generally an oil filter only needs about 3/4 of a turn. Tighten till it starts to bite then roughly 1/2-3/4 of a turn. It doesn't need 1 or 2 turns.

If the engine comes from factory with wrong tolerance on bearings (rods and main) will have problems sooner or later. Ford need some professionals people on engines assembly lines.

I watched your video just to see how to remove the plastic drain plug . It was very simple but then again it’s plastic and I didn’t want it to break . Thanks for this video

I have seen people using up to 5w-50w but I like your idea of using a 30w. Nice video. Informative for the novices.

If you have the tick all you have to do is add CERATEC Liquid Molly it goes away immediately the day you add it.

Well, hat's off to you. I've watched countless videos where guys put the filter on dry. I was taught a long time ago by a Master Mechanic. You want to fill your filter with fresh oil when changing filters.

At 6900 miles and haven’t changed oil yet. No tick. I’m a little weary of taking it to the dealer to change oil during service because on the ford pass app there’s a memo saying “up to 8 quarts of oil” but the capacity is 10

Here's the deal. Ford doesn't sleeve the 5.0 any longer. They spray a coating into the bored out block then they hone and put the pistons in, and piston slap is normal. I use a 5w 50 full synthetic (Mobil One), and a bottle of rislone. Tick, gone. -- I drive it very hard daily, and even more crazy at the track. -- 2019 GT, JLT Cold air, Borla long tube stainless headers, full 3 inch stainless to the back. Bama 93, and E85 tune, 510 hp to the back wheels. It's over 100 degrees at the track on some days so I use the thickest oil allowed (5w 50) and let her warm up good before driving anywhere, which gets the oil to the top. The Engine is a damn beast and loves abuse. 3350 miles on it so far, no issues. Don't be scared! lol j/k, Enjoy, and know that the dual over head 32 valve 5.0, makes noise, it's the nature of the beast and at least you can do things to remedy. Great video, thank you.

I’m from Sydney Australia I’m following every video you’re producing. I think it’s excellent what you do my order should be coming in February next year thanks for all your help and great work looking forward to more videos from you Nick

My oil of choice Pennzoil Platinum This stuff is liquid gold buttery smooth. Great VOA too. Yes all oil will shear down from 20 so 5w30 is a good idea. I only use motorcraft filters though for the VVT system. Walmart sells these 5 qt. bottles around here for $22.

I hope ford got rid of the issues that the 2018 GT had. Great video.

I agree with the change to 5-30 for performance use. Here in San Diego, where it hardly ever goes below 50 degrees, we can run 10-30. The terms:"Full Synthetic", "100% Synthetic" and "Synthetic" mean nothing in the United States. They have no legal meaning and are simply marketing terms. API defines synthetic oils as Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5. Group 5 is for Jet engines and has PAO and Polyol Ester base. Lots. Group 4 has a PAO base and only 3 brands are made in the U.S.: Royal Purple, AMSOIL Signature and REDLINE. All the rest, including Pennzoil Platinum, any Mobil 1 and the way overpriced Castrol Edge, are Group 3 which means derived from Hydrocracked Dino oil or from Natural Gas. Group 3 has no synthetic base, so it is inferior to Group 4 at higher temps. If you race, tow or have a turbo, use Group 4 . All "Synthetic oil" was Group 4 before 1997, when Castrol removed the PAO base and hydrocracked Dino Oil and got to call it synthetic. Exxon-Mobil sued Castrol for using the name"Synthetic" on Syntec but lost and since then, any molecularly-modified oil or Natural-gas derived and modified oil can be called synthetic. Be sure not to pay Group 4 price for a Group 3 oil. The oil companies won't tell you which synthetic oils are Group 3 and Group 4. Neither will API. You are being fooled.Until now. If an oil is labeled "Synthetic" and it's made in Germany or Japan, it must be Group 4 by law. Like Motul. Sorry to rile up the Mobil 1 fanboys, but Mobil 1 was downgraded to Group 3 years ago. And one other thing. Oil company sponsored race cars do not use the synthetic oil you buy at Pep Boys. It's a super Group 4 or 5 with no detergent and anything else that would make it last 10,000 miles. They don't put those additives in because it only has to last one race. So the closest thing you can buy to that custom race oil is a Group 4 Synthetic - the 3 brands above. If you race, tow or have a turbo, use only a Group 4. If you can only afford Group 3, or if Group 3 is all you need, Walmart sells Supertech Synthetic for about $17.99 for 5 quarts, and it meets GM Dexos and all other API approvals so why pay $9.00 a quart for Group 3 Castrol Edge? The same goes for so-called "Synthetic" ATF. You have the $25.00 a gallon Group 3 and the $50.00 a gallon real Synthetic Group 4 : Redline, Amsoil and Royal Purple.

U have to remove the car from jack before close the oil plug and filter , because some oil in the back of the engine, u left it only from front, should be level. Good luck

great choice i to use 5w30 mobile one in my 2015 mustang, car looks good glad its fixed!

All coyotes have the BBQ or type writer tick. I fixed mine with Ceratec. Next oil change is due, will but in 7,5 quarts mobile 1 5w20 and 600ml Ceratec, maybe a little less.

I think you are completely correct in choosing 5 W 30 weight motor oil. The people that are using 5w 50 weight motor oil scare me. I think that is too heavy of a weight of oil. I had a 4.6 L Mustang and you had to run the oil weight that Ford told you to. The people that were running heavier weight oils in those engines ruin the top end. When Ford made the clearances for oil when it got too thick it couldn't get to the top end and destroy itself. I worked at a Ford dealership and we saw many 4.6 L V8 get destroyed because of the oil weight that was used. I'm just afraid running a 5w 50 might do the same to these new coyote engines.

I have a 2020 GT PP1 that has both direct injection and port injection that Ford went to in 2018. This sort of eliminated the need for the catch can that many of us had on the earlier mustangs. In regards to the engine tick thing, I’ve noticed it when I first start the engine but in seems to go away after the engine warms up. I also went from 5W-20 to 5W-30 because I tend to challenge the backloads that have the hills and tight corners while in Sport + mode. I know some folks claim the engine tick when away when going to a higher viscosity oil but I did not notice any change going from 20 to 30. I have actually blamed the tick on the 32 valve overhead cam system as it sounded similar to what I heard with vehicles I had with solid lifters that I had to adjust occasionally. There seems to be a lot of mystery regarding the issue, if it is one, and piston slap is probably the best explanation, but I’m not losing any sleep over it.

Been watching and great info had a 2016 Fusion sport and got wreaked into 5 months later and three years later it started having water in my rear floor! Inches of water! I traded it in 5 days ago for my 19’ gt Velocity Blue 10 speed! Great channel bro! Loving the auto by the way! Thanks for the advice

2 things I've learned doing oil changes on my 2018. 1, I always remove the whole plastic cover before removing the filter because I don't like oil all over that cover. 2, as you saw in the video when you remove the drain plug the oil jets out fast! Make sure your drain pan can handle the flow and I use a small piece of sheet metal as a back stop to stop the splash. I'm curious if anyone has a better solution to prevent splashing oil on the floor?

My 2014 GT premium asks for 05w50 do to the premium Package. Be careful from the dealer, if you don’t actually see them put the oil in, they will place a cheaper lower oil in the engine, my engine. Three time they place 05w20(2), 05w30(1) on my engine that requires the 05w50. Shady bastard, fare warning to all followers, watch the dealership during your oil changes to make sure there putting in the right oil in your vehicles and i was paying premium, they will not order the 05w50 at the dealer cause of the cause and 9quarts. Make sure you see the bottle when empty. Foo for thought to all mustangs owner, the dealer is not your friend, they will screw u , if they feel that they can get away with it. Glad you got your stand back. Looking great.

Not sure if was mentioned already, but do-it-yourselfers should hold on to all receipts and keep a log of all changes in case any warranty issues arise. I loved doing my own oil changes, but these days, I let the dealer do them to avoid any hassle. The issue with the tick is that there seems to be no single identifiable root cause yet. Or there might be multiple causes. Also, Ford is pretty silent about it and their techs are all over the place in terms of diagnosis. In some cases, it doesn't seem to cause any real damage and in others, cylinder scoring shows up and metal particles are seen in the oil. Like you, I wouldn't worry too much about a tick that goes away when the engine is warm. Anyway, good vid.

I like ester based synthetic oils, I will probably run mutol xess 5w30 in mine. It clings to parts so no dry startups. Good video.

I noticed that you didn't check the stick after running the engine. You need to do that because after it fills the filter all the way the level could reduce to at or below the 1qt low line, especially if you only filled 9.5 quarts (hence why the oil was in the middle of the safe zone (half quart low) vs at the full line) before you even started the engine.

You should leave the jack engaged to the frame incase the jackstand slips . Metal on metal is very slippery !

Just subscribed! Like your stuff. The ford dealer here in VA tells me the 5w20 is mainly used because it’s easier to meet emissions regulations. I’ve switched to 5w30 and haven’t noticed a loss in gas mileage or performance.

Good video, thanks! However, ticking from the bottom of the motor (aka the infamous BBQ Tick / Typewriter Noise) is not piston slap. It has to do with the crankshaft. The tick is from a bearing clearance issue (too much clearance) on the crank or a rod. Nothing else makes a ticking sound in the bottom end. 2019 Mustang GT w/ 200-miles and have the BBQ tick already.

Ditto Zander, I'm going to do the same thing my next oil change

I put 5w50 motorcraft synthetic in my 2019 gt. The engine rattle at 2k rpm present. It's also roush supercharged.

No tool is necessary to remove the plastic drain plug. It's designed to be turned by hand, lefty loosy righty tighty. And it doesn't hurt to replace the plug every so often being it has an O ring. The Gen 3 coyote GT engine was designed to run on 5w20. Its not necessary to jack up the passenger side of the car if you are using a jack and stand. You only need to jack the driver side (behind the K member) to have easy access to the oil filter and drain plug. Lower the car back down level to get all of the used oil possible of the pan, and jack it back up to reinstall the plug (probably overkill but I do that). Use a large open style drian pain to prevent making a mess on your garage floor.

I'm a nervous wreck every time i change the oil in my mustang. I dont trust the jack stands. I leave the floor jack under it too for extra support.. I NEVER would do a header job on jack stands like you have. Scares the piss out of me being under my car on stands for some reason. Still running 5w20 mobil 1 syn EP here in my 2012 to get back on topic with 54,000 miles. Mid 11 car, bolt on, NA.

My 2018 also had a typewriter random tick at cold start, when warmed up it went away. Got rid of the 5W-20 Motorcraft oil put in Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and tick is completely gone.

I like to fill it up a bit more of oil I drive and feels way better

Your going to need to use 5w/50. It was standard in my 2014 Track Pack 5.0 which never saw the track. It never ticked. My 2013 was a base 5.0 with the 5w20. It ticked. I switched it out to 5w50 after 15k miles and 95% no tick. There is no such thing as the oil weight. Its called viscosity. The first number (left to right) is a 0, 5, 10, 20. That's the winter temp minimums. The 20, 30, 40, 50 is viscosity and the higher the viscosity for higher heat and performance oriented driving. Ford went the cheap route in an effort to save $$ and went to all low viscosity. Ford assumes the climate is the same all over as it is in Detroit. Turbo cars have a 30 or 40 viscosity because of high heat... Oil thins as it gets hot. I am in a tx near desert like climate. Temps are 104-112° from May to Oct and rarely goes below 38° at night in the winter so I do not need a viscosity for cold 4 season type climates which is a 0w20/30 or 5w20/5w30 or 10w20/10w30. The 20 is is better for cold starts, 30 is average and 40 or 50 is best for very warm to hot climates. If ypu have 4 seasons, use a 5 or 10w30, then go to a w50 in summer, especially if you get on the loud pedal at least a few times a day in the warmer temps. The old BOSS of 2012-2013, the Track Pack and Brembo Packs of 2012-2014, GT350 from 2010-2014 and the GT500 2008 to 2014 all used 5w50. Basically in layman's terms, if you plan on driving rather spirited more than 50%, per week and over 4000 rpm, in temps above 65°, use the 5w50.

Thank you! I've never changed my own oil before. It looks simple.

My family has several cars from from different makes that spec 20w oil and I NEVER use it, only a 30w or higher. These are high performance engines that are mostly driven hard; why use an oil that is specified because of fuel economy standards! Plus I never use the dealer bulk oil that is sometimes recycled. However I will use a 0 or 5 w first # for winter cold starts.

Tolerances are tighter on these newer engines. I run 0W-30 . Amsoil after break in

I am not arguing at all but the official response is as follows:::5W-30 Versus 5W-205W-30 and 5W-20 motor oil both feature the same winter rating. This means that both grades exhibit the same viscosity under cold conditions. However, 5W-30 features a slightly higher viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius than does 5W-20. This means that once the engine reaches normal operating temperature, 5W-30 oil will be thicker than 5W-20. Due to the increased resistance of the thicker 5W-30 oil, your engine will produce slightly lower fuel economy and horsepower output. You also risk engine damage when using 5W-30 instead of 5W-20, as the internal engine components are specifically designed to be used with 5W-20 motor oil.

I am on my third Ford with Coyote power and so far no strange engine noises. 2012 GT, 2017 F150, and now 2021 GT. I have been a new Ford owner since 1964 and I always wait until 1000 miles and then change oil and filter. (don't care what the manual says) I also wait until 1000 miles before driving it hard and then another 1000 before I hit the rev limiter. The 2021 manual says W5-30 instead of the previous 5-20 oil. I have also read that Ford changed the valve lash adjuster with a larger bleed hole and maybe that is the reason to up to 30 wt. Just guessing. I do know one thing, setting 1/4 mile records as you leave the dealership the first day is not the proper way to break in an engine. The factory runs new engines they don't break them in. Anybody who has ever had an engine built in a race engine shop knows that good shops will break in and tune your engine on the dyno, prior to track use.

I plan on buying a 2020 Mustang Gt. I don’t have a heavy foot and will only use it on my weekends. Should i stick with MobilOne full synthetic 5w20?

Good luck brother. Hope you don't have to deal with the crap I'm dealing with.

For the record, I got the tick before the oil change, oil changed after 4700 miles due to tick... made it worse... getting a new short block on the 24th... hope it helps, according to forums the tick in itself is not bad... it's due to the oil put in it... its if it progresses or starts to rattle, that's when it gets bad.

My Dads stock 2018 Blacked out GT has the “Tick”. He brought it to 3 dealerships & all Dealerships said it was the new High Pressure Fuel Pumps on the 2018’s that Tick

Great video! I've always changed my oil every 3000 miles ( back in the dinosaur days) but definitely synthetic now! I've also done the first oil change on a new car after the first 1000 miles......my GT will hit that tomorrow so I'm staying with the Motorcraft oil filter and like you 5w30 but instead I'm sticking with Mobil 1 advance synthetic and also I like to change it at 4000 miles.

Hey Zander13 thanx again. I appreciate all the advice and opinions! My 18 is completely stock 1,600 miles on it. I have been to 3 dealers here in NJ they refuse to acknowledge that there is something wrong! Cold engine sounds like it has a knock which I’m convinced is piston slap. Very disappointed ☹️

We have the same sense of humor, love it.

I've got the DI tick and it drives me crazy

Funny how ford flipped on the oil weights for 22-23. My 22 gt calls for 5w-30 for normal use and and 5w-20 for track use. Makes me wonder if they actually changed something like the piston rings.

Just got an oil change a couple days ago and since then I’ve been hearing a tick noise

14 GT here, 16k miles, haven't experienced this tick, running MC 5w20 Syn Blend.

I'm watching this video very late, but I always use the pennzoil platinum 5w30 Euro L, its viscosity is higher and its temperature resistance is higher than the regular platinum. I got my info from the pennzoil site.

I got the tick in my 16 pp1 at 30k miles with 5w20 mobile one …. My engine tech advised me to switch to motorcraft 5w50 …. Took the tick away completely.

Good to see your staying with manufacturers recommendations for warranty. Hope to see you in Kentucky.

Runnung a motorcraft 5w50 would also do the job this oil ends up being a 40 with some miles on it you it’s only a slight difference from 30

There's far to many 5.0's that have had the infamous "tic" since 2005 and not many were recalled, just TSB'd. Theres thousands of 5.0's just from 2018-2020 with a tic running 11's and high 10's, so I tell potentisl or new 5.0 folks not to worry about it. I hope you run mid 9's at 140+. You should hit that range with 800 rwhp/685rwtq.

Thanks bro for this video, this was exactly what I was looking for.

This came back up an was reading my old comments an know it’s reality. My car is now being bought back because of the tick. Good luck to all you guys thinking the tick is normal. In my case the tick was real an went full knock. Also I lost my 10r 80 they are not a strong as many think. Many mustangs an f150 coyotes are having issues. But keep adding your additives an living with fords garbage.

I take that flap off it just gets soaked with oil from the filter anyway. Two little bolts is all it takes. Should check your oil again after start up bet it’s down even more. Those oil filters really soak up the oil even when you fill them before hand.

I used amsoil on my 2024 and I have the tick here and there so I’ve seen the ceretec add in for that but I filled the crankcase with the 10 guards as directed so can I add it like that or do I have to remove some oil to account for the bottle of ceretec?

I use 5w/30 and mine takes 10.5 qrts

I have a 2019 with PP1 53000 mi. only used full synythetic oil, no ticks.

I think one needs to also inform people that using a thicker grade is great in hotter climates, but using 5w 30 in New England during the winter in 15 degrees that is NOT good!

You guy's have it easy with changing the oil filter...the right hand drive ones have no room because of the right hook rack.

FYI, KN Filters with nuts on top have been failing left and right. Banned by many racing organizations. Otherwise, thank you for video!

Thank you! Very helpful and straightforward video.

Got my 19 GT with 12k miles and had the tick sound I thought it was piston slap immediately so I took it to Ford and they later told me it was “normal for 2018-2019 mustangs” coming directly from the main Ford company 🤷🏻‍♂️ I am running 5w-20 but the drain plug started leaking so I ordered a Billet drain plug and for my next change I’ll be switching to 5w-30

If you live in Hot weather states like Forida you should run 5W30 .

Good choice in oil!! The most common tick is from cavitation (tiny bubbles being produced in the oil and being popped like bubble wrap is what makes that random metallic tick). I would not use Motorcraft 5W-20.

Since you did this informative video, could you do another one about the "break-in" period on a new car? I'm getting my 18 GT PP2 soon, and would like to properly break the engine in. Would love to see a video on it since your car is at just under 4K miles.

Awesome video as usual! How would you feel about doing a quick night time video of Project Carnage? I would love to see how everything looks at night - the interior with all the ambient lighting and the digital clusters..as well as what the exterior lighting is like especially with the tint..the looks of the headlights and tail lights....etc..I know I don’t have to tell you what to show you are obviously very capable of putting out fantastic videos..keep up the great work!!

This is funny thing. I just watched at Cj pony's video on their gen 2 5.0 oil change and when they went to reset the computer and theirs was at 54% as well.

Thank You for the informative information! Video very well done keep them coming!

Oil filters are not the same. For all ford motors u should only run the motorcraft oil filters.

Always have used redline.

5w50 is for the track pack car which has oil cooler takes 9 quarts in my 14 gt track pack car for extreme track use

Took it to the dealer at 2700 for the oil change, at 4100 rn and no tick

Awesome video and I appreciate the comedy too.

Good job on the documented premium oil change. Add the rest too

Same thing for a 2016?

My 2019 does not have the oil filter panel door. I have to remove 4 bolts and the plastic panel to access the filter.

Trying not to loose my cool because I knew it was a gamble. I took delivery of my $70,000 2019hellion twin turbo speck 2 three days ago. I was informed the oil was changed with Ford synthetic blend 5w-50. I have 150 miles on the car (125 on it when I picked it up). I have been a backyard mechanic all my life. The car clearly has the typewriter tick from the oil pan. With no warranty. Have you heard of anyone with the tick not having to rebuild? Thank you.

To pour from a jug like that with minimal glug-glug, hold the jug horizontally

I like you video great job. My 2017 had the engine tick and Ford did nothing about it. Look at my videos it was loud I ended up trading the car in at 2500 miles😞. I am now driving a 2018 F 150. The one thing I disagree with you is about the conventional oil not being virgin. A few years ago a company tried to market recycled oil and the idea failed. I have worked in the auto field decades and never heard about recycling oil and selling it as new. Please send me some credible evidence on your statement. Thanks Craig

Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 falls in the parameters of a high viscosity 5W-20 and a light viscosity 5W-30. Either way you cannot go wrong with using 5W-30 Pennzoil Platinum.