Link to the discord for extra help & questions discord.gg/9ZSYr8THb4

What are the tabs on the piston for that line up in the. Pad you turned it at end of video. Thanks for info

How about the brake wear sensor reset?

@@professional2.09 p0po0loo90000

@@hdryder1568 I did not see a rear pad sensor there. Also mine were at absolute zero and no sensor. All I heard was the noise and guessed its pad time

When I was at the dealer, they only paid standard 2 hours. Do you get more?

@@ygoteamtarox3823 I think I get 3? I tend to take 30 minutes for front and rear brakes so I end up getting a lot of hours at the end of the day.

I agree. I switched to 225/75/16 as well at 36k miles. I am now changing the rear rotors and pads as the process to remove the rear rotors is so dumb, there is no way I want to do it soon. I was going to just cut the rotors as at 75k miles they are ok, but no way in hell I want to do this again. What a nightmare. Pulling an axle shaft to change rotors ? Come on Ford. Stupid as stupid does. I will change the pads next time faster, probably around 125k (50k miles) and no rotors that time. The original tiny tires are horrible. The Van looks, rides and handles 10x better with the 225/75/16 Yokohama's. Not only that but the tires after 39k miles are about half way down, while the oem's were worn down at 36k. They had maybe 4k miles left in them and these have at least 30k left in them. Cost was also slightly less, but the ride and handling is much better. Noise not so much, so next time I chose a different brand.

Doing then today on a 2020 T250, talk about fucking stupid, way to go ford!!

If you need anything let me know

Mine too, I switched them and still worn out pads in 45k. Tried better pads tool. The brakes just suck. Got 230k out of suburban rears and 180k out of fronts.

Link me

@@FordBossMe kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sNednrp0mbvReGQ.html 26:35

Appreciate it!

These pay 2.5hrs

.5 if the calipers need replaced each additional

Use oe or better in a HD transit work van, no cheap shit

@@FordBossMe what's the lifespan for the brakes less then a year or over a year per pads? The front ones last the same or 2x longer?

@@FordBossMe the first few years those came out, the dealer was less expensive than the aftermarket.

Ford pads come with clips and most of the time are cheaper than aftermarket.

Can you remind me in the morning

No idea who that is

@@FordBossMe Its somone from the uk working for a taxi firm with only mondeos as fleet but they now repair other vehicles also. He is on youtube as Allen Howatt He mentioned to spray silicone behind the boot before you turn it back on the transit.

@@IntradeMotors I've also said that before depending how nasty they are

amzn.to/46jzzeN

I did reference using some silicone grease on the part where the pads right back and forth not sure if you meant that in the video that I did reference that and you can even see it on the pads and on the back of a pan Yeah you can use an abrasive disc on the axle flange it just really wasn't that bad so I didn't do it in this

@@FordBossMe Yes...that's what I was referring to. I guess the correct term is brake caliper grease. My mechanic is picky about which brand he uses.

@@Garth2011 if you have to remove rust from the bracket then a little brake grease helps under the new slide hardware to slow the growth of new rust. never grease the top where the pad rides. The new hardware is polished to allow for easy sliding movement of pad. 25 years and no squeaks this way.

@@hungryjack8032 Yes, under the clips. I also heard that some caliper rust that forms is tough to get off and once in a while wire brush polishes vs. removes rust. I saw a guy use a carbide tipped file made for brake jobs and it got down to the caliper metal very quick and even/smooth. I guess it depends how detailed you want to be or how badly rusted a bracket is in combo with the customers budget.

@@Garth2011 Getting the surface even is most important. If rust is left in place making the surface uneven, the clip won't sit flush and could pinch the pad, limiting its proper movement. When working on a customers car, the extra few seconds to do the best job possible the first time will reward you later. No comebacks and a solid reputation.

You really loose like nothing, it's what ever is right there in the end of the axle tube and that's it Pull the 3/8ths drain plug in the diff and still sitting right at the full mark

I think extra 20$ or so

Yes

The beginning of the video it was up laying on the spring I pulled it down to clean it, it has a cable attached to it as well not just hose And no you don't need to replace it that is wrong Just because it hangs doesn't mean it's bad and who ever says that it just fear mongering

Moving along crossing fingers

@@FordBossMe that’s good. I’m praying for you too

Didn't need to you lose so little .... still right there at the fill mark... doesn't matter Unless it's overfilled you ain't going to lose very much you'll just a little tiny bit right there in the end cap and that's it

They just overwork these things big time

They are proportioned to apply more rear brake so the van doesn’t nose dive. It squats more than nose dive. I have a 15, 250, 3.5EB that has been a money pit. Love the van but wow. 8 sets of tires, 8 sets of rear brakes, 6 sets of front brakes, drivers side exhaust manifold and bolts, passenger side exhaust manifold and turbo, fuel pump drive module and the dreaded drive shaft coupling every 30k miles. I replace rotors every time I replace pads. There was a TSB on the rear caliper holders on wrong side of vehicle from factory. Brakes were gone at 8k miles. It would hold brakes on a slight amount. Van weighs 8900 loaded. I love my van but maintenance has been costly.

No it's a Mac impact with a DeWalt battery They are the same DeWalt is The same as Mac and both are owned by Stanley

The wrong one in the wrong.hole will look off and not fit the same vs the other You have me questioning myself now, I'm trying to log into for online and it's not letting me One will fit better in one spot vs the other Gotta pay attention when doing these jobs for sure....maybe when I get to work I'll be able to log in or maybe site is down Not sure but remind me in a bit

@Ford Boss Me thanks a lot.

Seems like there's a problem with equalizing fluid. If the back brakes are doing all the work, something needs to be equalized.

I fixed it lol, that day was a rough day for me

Ok. So before finding these videos. I torqued new axle bolts to 50 ft lbs then went to 80. Didnt seem like needed to many degrees more to acheive this. Your opinion on this? 2020 250 srw

Mac branded but Stanley owned Really it's a PROTO ANTIVIBE which is still owned by Stanley when you order it

@@FordBossMe oh I know. Just saying they are the best hammer I've used

@@niteninja0133 same I agree just dropping so knowledge wasn't sure if you knew Someone else will learn from the statement I'm sure

How much does it cost for parts and labor

It's painted

I rarely see a slide pin issue

@@FordBossMe yeah most of the time the pads are rusted in place on the hardware. I have had several older F150s with slide pins stuck in the bracket since people either don't lubricate them when their brakes are done or they're so old they just get stuck in there.

it goes both directions

⁠thanks

No

Thanks bro

you're supposed to but really it's never really low enough to do so

I always pull the plug just to make sure and as long as it's even with the plug you don't need to put anything in

Yes

You can be your own judge These are torque to yield bolts

@@FordBossMe Meh, even I said better safe than sorry. I just found that to be excessive. Maybe one could do a breaking ft. pounds test to determine it. I've seen Chrysler actually reuse TTY bolts on occasion, always amazed me.

Ehhh

My Chevy Express had 86,000 miles and I only had to replace front pads around 70,000 I sold it at 86,000 miles and it still had the original back pads on it. Now I have a 2015 transit with 46,000 and the back pads are metal to metal.

When I do the front side pull out the on car lathe if I can But yeah you are right the fronts are a pain

Don't make comments about other people's stuff Larry just he here to support me and be part of the family It's not hurting you or anyone else just keep that to yourself, it doesn't do anything for either one of us

@@FordBossMe no hate man I’m just saying I use to do that and since I got my cart it’s so much nicer and I’ve been more efficient sorry about that

He'll learn the hard way when his back hurts so much he can't bend over anymore. Think smart while you're young and it won'e hurt as bad when you're old.

Unfortunately

Who could have? If your assuming I could have you'd be wrong ... I can't just order what ever I want and say ohkayyyyy here we are Company has guidelines - also when you see BLUE pads like these ( they are severe service heavy duty polices style etc etc ).

I changed them at 27,000km one time

I’ve never had pads go under 50k. Even cheap aftermarket pads

I have a company transit T150 that loaded up with tools and my rear pads went out at 90k but still driving with the original fronts at 133k today. It all depends on the driver and loads. I’m an easy coming to stops with the van. Overall the transit in my opinion is pretty reliable. The Wisconsin roads give it a beating.

Yeah that is strange I had about 68 on my f150 before changing. Have 140,000 now. Original rotors, second set of pads

You want a one ton floating axle or not? The bearings are beefy on these.

That's a construction truck that often gets loaded down there's nothing else going on stop trying to overthink everything

design flaw, proportioned too heavy on the rears. Ford didn't have this problem on the E series vans. Plus now they can sell more parts

The heavy rear brake bias on this vehicle is on purpose, prevents nose diving on such a tall vehicle. Helps with stability. Currently doing brakes on a 2020 250, 85,000 miles, still serviceable material left on the rear pads. I’ve owned five of these, and I have never had a set go out as fast as a lot of people are saying… Usually somewhere in the 80+ thousand mile range before doing the first set of rear pads for us.

I've got like four videos on this and nobody else complained in the comments section about learning how to do the job other than you so yeah I'm not going to take anything you say as worth anything I should be listening to or else everybody would be complaining about that