Dude that's awesome! Exactly what these videos are for, so glad it helped you out!

Nice! I've heard good things about those too.

Thanks! I already have the data from the track, video coming soon. I didn't do much for daily driving before/after, but I can always include what the temps look like on a drive to work or something.

Yea agree, that was one my internal debates between the JR cooler and the Greddy cooler (which has much nicer hoses). I couldn't justify the large cost difference to go with the Greddy though. With the JR hoses oriented properly, as I adjusted them in the video, I think they will be fine.

@@TheBTRGarage Totally agree on that one the Greddy is way too expensive for what it is. Could easily of been my routing too but way I see it it's no biggy and something I wanted to learn anyways, worked out in the end! 👍

Awesome! Glad to help 👍🏻

To be fair the OEM heat exchanger does a decent job of keeping oil temps down (not low, but down). The gen1 cars had typically 25-30° higher oil temps on track, in my experience. That said the "real" oil cooler is definitely worth it if you're doing more than a couple track days/races a year 👍

Hi Justin, Great content video. Why did u decide about oil cooler when your oil temp on track are 250 degrees max, wich is ideal oil temp for engine work?

Yea, I noticed that and slid the included shield over to cover where it was hitting the frame. I'll keep an eye on it!

The same thing happened to me but unfortunately I didn't notice it until it was too late. Oil went everywhere and I thought the engine was gone for good. I replaced the longer oil line and thank goodness the engine was fine. I'm also noticing that the oil sandwich plate, even when tightened to 35, will still slowly rotates counter clockwise which will eventually cause the oil line to hit the frame again. I have taped the frame area with gorilla tape but I'll still keep my eyes on it. Maybe I will get stainless steel braided oil lines in the future tho.

Thanks! Follow up coming soon :)

Sure, you can do that. But, the tool makes it much easier and you already need the tool for all the other clips anyways. No point in using 2 different tools when 1 does the job.

@@TheBTRGarage The owner's manual also details all of the other kinds of clips. The only tools that Subaru recommends for any pop clips on the car is a flathead screwdriver and sometimes a phillips-head screwdriver for certain ones.

That's great, but if you've ever actually tried to remove these clips with a flathead you know that it is incredibly easy to ruin them. The tool is faster, way easier, and saves the clips from damage, especially when they are old and gunked up with dirt/grime. Nobody is stopping you from doing things the more difficult way though, have at it.

@@TheBTRGarage I’m just stating that you do not in-fact NEED the tools you recommended to remove the flathead-style pop clips, although they are useful.

I've thought about adding a baffle. But, someone has done some extensive testing with one on a gen2 car and it did little to nothing to improve oil pressure, especially is the lowest points. So, that data kind of put it further back on my list of upgrades.

@@TheBTRGarage I've been reading similar thoughts from folks like Killer B and others who track heavily. These pans are cheap enough to where even if they only help slightly, I feel like it may be worth doing while the lower pan is already removed. I see some references to the GR86 Cup/series cars running baffled pans, and that STI makes their own pan (I can't find it anywhere, though) - but overall yeah, not a 10/10 'everyone must do this' upgrade from the data that is available. I'm still waiting for my name to come up in my local dealer's queue and I'm actively searching for cars while I wait. I've already narrowed down day 1 mods like brakes/tires. Only outstanding questions are about the oiling situation. Seems like reasonable/ideal steps to me are: - drop lower oil pan and clean up the RTV in the pan and pickup - switch to 5w30 for track use and switch back to 0w20 for winter street driving - keep it topped up frequently - monitor oil temps closely and if needed get an oil cooler - consider an air-oil separator kit - investigate logging oil pressure (mentioned this in a comment on another video) - consider the baffled pan if I see regular concerning dips in oil pressure

@@chasewd5117 Prep sounds all good to me. I'd consider running the OEM Michelin PS4's, assuming you're getting the top trim model, they are pretty decent.

@@chasewd5117 Blackhawk Japan has those STI pans

I did not install my oil cooler until 10k+ miles, over 10 track days/races, and 65+ autocross. So I agree with your first statement :) It doesn't hurt though... Starting the oil analysis right away was to get a baseline and obviously make sure I have the trends starting from the beginning. Interesting to see how it changes more than anything.

Correct, you can have them both on at the same time.

Crap, I totally forgot! Here is the link, and I updated the description. Thanks! Push Pin Plier Set : amzn.to/3Oe2Ilk

Unfortunately I do not have oil pressure logging at this time. I will be adding that in the future to one of the capped ports on the JR cooler adapter though!

​@@TheBTRGaragewill be very interesting 😊