Thank you. Des

Hi there and thanks so much for your wonderful comments. They have made my day for sure. Best wishes to you and your family. Take care, Des

Hello there my friend and thank you for your great feedback. I hope that you manage to make steady progress with your project and complete it in the not too distant future. This time of year does present it's challenges and I would highly recommend getting 1 or 2 nice big tarps to protect your precious work from the elements. Take care and stay safe, des

Thank you Sir. Des

Thanks Steve. Appreciate you dropping by mate. ATB, Des

Awesome, thank you! I really appreciate your constructive feedback. Although I'm not a professional Joiner I researched the insulation & lining aspect thoroughly and I'm confident you can rely on it buddy. Stay safe and well, Des

My pleasure. Des

Hi there. Understand why. But a lot more expensive. ATB, Des

Hiya buddy and appreciate you dropping by. I think there's 2 ways of looking at the ceiling lining issue. The problem with your suggestion is this. Warm air rises and condenses on a colder surface (i.e. the ceiling). Obviously the ceiling slopes at a good angle. If you line the ceiling first so you can tuck the plastic behind the wall lining then what happens to any moisture that has built up and drains off? It will seep BEHIND the plastic sheet on the wall and soak into the insulation which it is supposed to be protecting, thereby defeating the purpose of lining it in the first place. See what I mean? Best wishes mate, Des

Ha, ha. Perhaps I need to get a Dexter book as well. Lol. Point well made Sir. ATB Ade.

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Coincidence!? I think not, but he had just done his first murder and used cut open bin liners in an empty house.......

Yeah fiberglass is very itchy. I replaced all fiberglass in my house with rockwool. Much nicer stuff but still not good.

Great point. Should have prepped for that but got carried away. Vid to follow my friend. Des

Good question that. If I do a similar build again I most definitely will. I did overlook this for sure. I appreciate you watching my vids. Best wishes, Des

Hiya Alex. Have you tried to warm the place up at all or just tested the temperature with and without the foil? Don't forget, if there isn't warm air inside to insulate then it will just maintain the existing temperature??

@@21stcenturycaveman33 I haven't tried using a heater but the indoor temperature got up to 20c+ by lunch but didn't maintain it for long once it got colder outside. It seems like we have a problem with that driving wind and rain yesterday. The shiplap was letting water in through several knots and the overlap, depsite looking fine on both sides. Not oodles, but a little puddle on one of the boards.

For anyone else that needs to know - hammer tacker. It was mentioned later on in the video.

If there isn't airflow inside then yes, but as it's an outbuilding it likely will not need much. If there wasn't a vapour barrier then any moisture inside will go through to the insulation likely making it damp and useless.

Hi there. Please watch the following episode: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ga5-dLiUya7eh40.html&ab_channel=21stCenturyCaveman

Thank you. That's an interesting question for sure but try not to over think it. It's a glorified shed mate and it will last for many years to come. There will inevitably always be some water vapour /moisture in the air because it isn't a sealed unit. I'm very confident that my amateur joinery skills will provide adequate opportunity for ventilation. Best wishes, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks for your reply bud. You have much more experience than me and I'm sure you're right :) I was just curious as I've been doing the typical thing that every newbie does, or questioning every decision I make haha. Ive struggled a bit with the cold roof design so it's encouraging to know that it might not actually be a huge deal even if it's not quite how I wanted it. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep up the great work :)

Use insulation board so that it can be pushed up tight to the osb , there should be no where for the condensation to then form. Using the insulation type in the video will 100% cause condensation and won’t last.

It's a valid concern and one I' m struggling with on my shed build. Cold roof needs min 50mm uninterrupted airflow across the top of the ceiling insulation and the plastic shed (vapour control layer) needs to be completely and absolutely airtight. Staples, nails and screws through the OSB and plastic sheet compromise the barrier and moisture will condense on the underside of your roof OSB. I have to put sizeable holes in noggins to allow end to end airflow between rafters. Yes, it's only a shed but when you build to this level (I've gone to the expense of EPDM roof) a badly designed or badly installed cold roof might not last long.

Hi there, no problem at all. If you've insulated your shed (especially if you've used loft insulation like I did) then you definitely need a completely waterproof barrier such as the one I used. They're readily available at Wickes but not always that easy to identify on a basic search of their website. Here's a link to the one I bought: www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-1000-Gauge-Black-Damp-Proof-Membrane---4-x-12-5m/p/152859 Please read all the questions and my replies to similar queries in the comments sections below the vid for explanations. If you install a similar / same) breathable vapour barrier as you put on the outside this will not work as moisture will eventually seep into the insulated cavities leading to damp, mould and eventual deterioration, etc. TBH, I think it depends on how much time and money you've invested in your project. If this is considerable and you want your shed to last for a very long time then you need to follow above guidance. I hope this doesn't sound arrogant but I am very confident about this. However, if your time and expense is minimal then if you've got some vapour barrier left then it's obviously better than nothing at all and will prolong the life of your shed but it will not last anything like as long as the waterproof sheet referred to above. Hope this helps, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 thanks for the quick reply. Yea built it very similar to yours. 4x2 frame/osb/breathable membrane then roof lat then feather edge. Wasn't sure what you use as I've been watching yours and another one which he used a www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Green-Polythene-Vapour-Barrier---2-5-x-20m/p/153230?scid=scplp153230&sc_intid=153230&ds_rl=1255408&ds_rl=1255411&ds_rl=1256312&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8rT8BRCbARIsALWiOvQk_g79CXKtNsOe4_58DM_jbKV51oXj7cLV3KEH7G7sgoicNaVvTO8aArovEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I will go for the black stuff then. Just wasn't sure as am thinking of boarding it in side with ply or plasterboard

Aha. This will actually be fine. This vapour barrier is NOT breathable and will therefore be perfect. But, it is half the thickness as the one I recommended and will therefore tear much easier. However, it is also one third of the price. My external vapour barrier was waterproof AND breathable - that's the difference. Buy whichever gives you best value for money my friend. But, the one you have chosen is perfectly fine. ATB, Des

It should also go without saying the the plasterboard will be much cheaper than ply and easier to work with. The downside is, of course, that it's also much easier to damage but I guess you realise that anyway.

@@21stcenturycaveman33 thanks again. Yea will go for the black one then. As you said its double the thickness and I Don't mind spending abit more if needed to get it right. Just wanna make sure its done right so it lasts a long time. I couldn't get my head around the membrane on the inside. Wasn't sure if it should of been the same as the external one but haven't seen anyone doing it with that. That's why I thought I would ask. Might drill through the noggins in the roof to help with the air flow as well. Couldn't have done it really without watching your progress so many thanks again

Hi there buddy. Good to hear from you my friend. Assuming the ENDS of the floor joists aren't visible from underneath & outside the shed, I'd definitely use a magnet to identify where the nail / screw heads are. Mark accordingly. You may be able to scratch away the tops of them to expose them. Once you've marked as many as you can find this should give you a clearer picture as to where the joists are and which way they run. If you're still uncertain, it may be an idea to use a cheap circular saw bit (no more than 25mm dia / inch) and drill a hole an inch or so to the side of the nail / screw head to see whether you can detect the edge of the joist. This should also be wide enough to poke your finger through to check if still unsure. You may need to do this 2 or 3 times to determine how wide the joists are in order to better gauge how much of an anchor pint they will give you (particularly where boards butt together). Hope this makes sense and helps. Best wishes to you and yours, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 yep that makes perfect sense buddy! It’s been on my mind for days now. I’ve too many ‘rash’ friends who advise drastic things like “just get it wedged up to see underneath”......I’m like “yea and knowing my luck the whole shed will collapse” 🙄 🤣 I knew you would be likeminded in your methodical approach so these tips are brilliant for sure! I’ll try and get out there and have a better luck on some days off over the festive period! Thanks for taking the time out to reply and give back, much appreciated! Hope you have a brilliant Christmas and see you in 2021 with updates! Jax

Hi there. I would say definitely yes but it is far more expensive and you've got to weigh up whether it's worth it. It's fair to say that it does definitely make a difference though and there is a noticeable variation between the temperature inside and out. Also, I need to emphasize that if you go for this type of insulation then you MUST protect it with plastic sheet if you live in the UK for the reasons mentioned in the vid. Hope this helps. Des

Hi there and thanks for your kind words. The ventilation was under the eaves but it can gor pretty much anywhere tbh. Just bear in mind, the potential for draughts though. ATB, Des

Btw, this was covered in an earlier vid

Save yourself the hassle. Use Pir insulation and press it upwards hard against the roof sheeting. That way you'll get no condensation. Also it will be easier to hold up in the space. Des, your series was one of the 1st I watched before starting my build. I am half way through my 16ftx10ft garden room and alot of that was due to yours and Ali Dominics videos. So informative! You even have me the love of the impact driver! Lol Thanks a ton! :)

@@leeg713 my roof consists of a sheet of OSB on the outside screwed into a 3x2 frame that sits on top of my walls - my plan is to use a box profile roof on top of the OSB, so would i just press the PIR/KINGSPAN sheets cut to size into the gaps between the framework on my roof on the inside, press it all the way TO the osb leaving a little gap between any eventually osb or plasterboard i use for the ceiling?

Hiya Rob. yes to both mate. All good. Go for it. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 does it it keep the heat in well ? Wasn’t sure whether it would be better for me to use kingspan on the top. Which do you think is better ? Also does it insulate sound well ?

HI buddy. Can't comment on Kingspan as I haven't used it tbh. I went for the best value option, i.e. best combination of price and function. It's a great insulator but I got it in a promotion. Best, Des

Hello there and apologies for the delay. You will need to protect the insulation from water / vapour ingress. So, I would do the following: 1. Line cavities between timber supports with waterproof plastic sheet. This will protect insulation but leave timbers exposed so that they can 'breathe' 2. Fill cavities with insulation 3. Line inside of shed with waterproof plastic sheet to protect insulation from any moisture / water vapour 4. Mark position of all timbers so you know where to fix sheets so you can line internally 5. Line with boards 6. Put the kettle on and make yourself a nice cuppa ;?) Good luck, Hope this helps, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 cheers des for the reply very much appreciated. I wil follow that will the inner lining. Need to be breathable then the insulation and then apply the standard plastic line before the ply boards?

No. Read point 1 again. 'Line cavities between timber supports with waterproof plastic sheet'. Your build is different to mine so the process is different. The first sheet of plastic should NOT be breathable - it doesn't need to be. Same plastic sheet as the one you put up in point 3. ATB, Des

Hi. No I didn't . I left them open - will probably make some bird boxes to go underneath them. ATB, Des

Hiya Stan. No buddy. The reason for the vapour barrier on the outside is to waterproof the building but also to allow it to breathe, thus reducing likelihood of rot. Conversely, however, on the inside, you need a completely waterproof membrane such as a thick plastic sheet to stop moisture penetrating into the insulation and timbers. Therefore, internally you do NOT want to fix a breathable membrane. Hope that helps Stan. Best wishes, Des (Plse note though, that you really only need to insulate your building if you're going to be using it throughout the year and using a heater inside. If not, you may find it's unecessary and costly). ATB, Des

Also, you still need ventilation inside!

Hi there and thanks for dropping by. If condensation was that bad then it suggests there wasn't adequate cross ventilation in the build and you have to ask yourself a question. Q: Where's all the water vapour going that was there previously? A: It's obviously going through the permeable membrane you've installed. If you've insulated the structure then the insulation will be soaking it up and mould and rot will eventually be building up out of eyesight. Stay safe and well, Des

Built the same as yours walls dry, cealing wet now able to breath its dry havent coverd with osb to keep checking appears to be ok got moisture meter and in normal range.

Hi there. I did actually consider that but it was no biggy though tbh. One is as time consuming as the other. ATB, Des

See below: www.amazon.co.uk/Tacwise-A11-Type-Hammer-Tacker/dp/B003OWR2HA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3LFQRTPGPFKD2&dchild=1&keywords=tacwise+hammer+tacker+a11&qid=1592819120&sprefix=tacwise+hammer%2Caps%2C353&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSzRCMTFKMjI3OURFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzE0Mzg2MzlEV044TDFSTEs4SSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTg5NDU5MzlBWlFWWTU5MjJVUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Not at all. It'll be absolutely fine. Appreciate you watching. ATB, Des

Hi there. I deliberately made it strong and extremely sturdy for longevity. Can't see why any reasonable minded person would ever consider this to be a problem? Lol. Surely better to do it properly first time round than have to go back and do it a second time? With respect, the fact that you believe there is 'far too much going on' suggests that you either haven't watched the episodes and explanations properly and / or don't understand the principles of insulation, vapour barriers and ventilation. Whilst I am neither a qualified joiner or a scientist I do know that your presumptions are absolutely wrong. Also, as a matter of fact, there is plenty of ventilation in the cabin, minimal of any moisture retention and definitely no rot. ATB, Des

Please see replies in comments section. Thanks, Des