The one thing this video doesn't mention that I screwed up (and that AVIVX's video does mention) is pushing the BNC connector down hard enough until you feel the snap of the pin seating. Otherwise the pin won't extend far enough for as solid of contact as desired with the mating connector.

When we view some of these Do it yourself" videos, some of the contributors tend to go off the deep end, showing you their "shacks," listening to them talk to their barking dogs, and musings about their personal lives, all the while they are supposed to be "teaching" us something, like putting a connector on a wire. Your video was excellent: to the point, no unnecessary commentary, and detailed instructions. Even thought I wasn't in the market for such instruction, I found myself watching it to the end, just in case I may need it someday! Good job! Thanks!

I learned how to do that about 35 years ago, putting BNC connectors on RG-58 style coax for "thin" Ethernet. The steps you showed matched up almost exactly with how I did it. I could not agree more on your point that you need to match the connector to the cable and then the tools to the connector. I had to work with Belden 8997 cable (I think it was) which was for air plenum use, basically almost like Teflon, no smoke during a fire. It was new enough that I had to use one crimp tool for the center pin and another for the outer crimp ferrule. Regular coax could use the same center pin tool but yet another for the ferrule. Nicely done video overall, just enough details, long enough without being too long. Take care, Sir!

I like that last add with the shrinking tube. I do this, and I think people working in the field of CCTV's should absolutely do this as a standard.

We've been buying needlessly expensive BNC cables in my lab for years and of course they are never quite the length you want. I was happy to see your tutorial because I've learned so much from your other videos. Now I feel like an idiot for never making my own sooner...

Cheers to you for producing this vid. So simple to follow... my first time putting replacing a PL connector with a BNC went flawlessly.

Hey Alan - another great video. Just a couple of comments from someone who has done thousands of BNC crimps. Firstly, to get the best result, you need to have the correct crimp tool - not just a good quality one, but the correct one. Secondly, the purpose of the hole in the side of the centre pin is so you can see the end of the centre core. It is not a solder hole and I don't recommend you solder the centre pin. Thirdly, as Axel mentions below, with some manufacturers, the centre pin "clicks" into place. Fourthly, some people tend to double-crimp the shield. This is considered bad practice and is not recommended. Recommended practice is to crimp once hard up against the connector body. This allows the open end to flare - which provides strain relief and catches the coloured boot (if fitted). Which leads me to the last point - you can buy coloured plastic boots to fit over the larger crimp (in lieu of the heatshrink you mention). But again, you need to get the exact right boots for the connector and cable. If you are doing any significant quantity of crimped BNCs, then buy the connectors, boots and crimp tool from the same manufacturer. The manufacturer of choice used to be Greenpar, but they go brought up by Tyco (TE Connectivity) so you need to be careful you get the old Greenpar designs with the Greenpar crimp tool. HTH

Really great, well shot and narrated video. Thank you very much.

Thanks for crimping the center connector! There are a lot of videos from the CCTV guys on youtube who just leaves it hanging, without any crimping. On another note, I was always taught that the center pins without the tiny side-hole should be crimped, and the ones with the tiny side-hole should be soldered to the center conductor of the coax.

Very clear and concise instructions on how to crimp on the connector. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Now it's time to put into practice!

Love your measuring tips, and how you trimmed the braid.

Very nice Alan. I like the crimp method. When I worked on 800 MHz trunk radio we were not allowed to crimp them on, all had to be soldered. Thanks for sharing.

Great educational video. I prefer soldering the the center pin, but you have to be quick, else the polyethylene expands and you won't be able to get it into the connector. I have had trouble with crimped center pins. They are OK initially, but after a few years the connection degrades from oxidation I suspect. I also use heat shrink as you mentioned, allot of bending at the shield crimp ferrule.

Crimper came in as I had unseated the last crimped connector. I pulled up your video and followed the instructions. Worked great!!! Thanks!!

Thanks! Because of your video I was able to purchase the correct tools and parts to repair the RG58 cable to my wireless in ear monitoring system.

Man this brings back memories!! I don't miss the pre-rj45 pc network days.

One of the best instructional videos seen - including other topics. No baloney.

Now, this is nice, clear, complete and professional training. Bravo.

This video is most excellent. Being a (newish) General level Ham operator, I'm experimenting with antennas, so this information comes in so very handy. I picked up all those tools, so I'm set to go - thank you!

Thanks for the explanation, you make it look easy

Great video except for one very important thing. You did not mention the crimp die sizes. My crimper has six die sizes and It is supposed to be used for 58, 59 and 174 coax. I think I got the correct dies. I used 0.213" for the collar and and 0.068" for the center pin. I approached crimping the center pin a bit differently. I placed the pin in the jaws of the die and closed it enough to hold it in place then inserted the center wire and crimped the pin. It held tight and I didn't have to finagle the wire with the pin on the end into the crimping die.

I bought a set of crimp BNC connectors and the tool, because I was so frustrated with the compression type, which I believe are better. I have since learned to terminate the compression type. I’m still glad I have both types now. I’ve been doing CCTV work for two years, as of this comment.

Another great demo as usual. I do have one suggestion. When crimping contacts onto small wires I find it preferable to place the contact in the tool and then insert the wire into the contact. I do this for all connector styles. The position of the contact in the tool is usually quite critical and can be varied enough to make a poor connection. I also want to point out that BNCs are readily available in both 50ohm & 75ohm impedance. I don't know of a way to distinguish between them visually so be careful when buying them because the seller might not know what they are selling. Coax is usually marked with an identifying number and sometimes the impedance so if the connector fits the coax it's likely the correct impedance.

Alan - Having forgotten how many cables I've made up over the years I'd like to add one minor variation. When measuring to cut the braid I like to add a further 0.5 to 1 millimetre to allow for the loss in the bend of the braid round the inner ferrule depending on the actual design. It may not be much but I believe it makes for a better connection.

The thing I hate about crimps is that when you don't do them very often you almost have to relearn the process all over again (just like soldering them!). Coincidence seeing your video (great BTW!) as I just needed to put some crimps onto a run of LMR240 and LMR400 and really like the stiff wire trick to measure the length of the inner dielectric; silly me sitting there with a micrometer and trying to eyeball it! DXEngineering has some really nice coax prep tools that nicely strip the outer cover and minimize the chance of nicking the inner conductor. TNX Alan! 73 - Dino KL0S

Simple, straightforward, and informative. What is "the right size" die slot to use for the center pin and for the ferrule?

Thank you and kuro68000 said it for me, I really look forward to all your videos you have taught an old stockman, (cowboy) a lot about electronics, knowledge to me is not about power, it is about sharing, learning, and a essential requirement for the human brain.

love soldering the center pin and heat shrink tube the crimp sleeve with light color so you can write on /label it

Tip for the centre pin is to gently grip it in the tool and then put the centre core in and then crimp. As well you get a nice extra boot that you can use instead of the heatshrink, though it is good to slip a small piece of clear adhesive lined heatshrink tube over first, which then is used to hold a strip of paper laser or inkjet printed with a cable identifier. Or use larger cable markers, which slip over before crimping.

Thanks this gave me the confidence to try it myself and it worked out great

If you don't already have one, you should consider setting up a Patreon account. Your videos have a lot of value to the EE community and I'm sure that some of us would support your continued good work.

I like how you put that together and have to remember this when working with the wires I have to put together.

Another useful and well presented video. Thanks Allen.

Very easy and professionally explained. Many Thanks

Good video. Bought some crimp connectors... don't know why, maybe because they are cheap. I hate crimp on connections.

That's an amazing video. Exactly as everybody said to the point and you have a nice voice, calm and explaining it in a great way. I did my cable in no time, following your video. I only have a suggestion: Can you put a text that says about the heat shrink in the beginning? I wish I have thought about it before I crimped my connector lol

Very helpful! Thanks from Brazil!

Thank you for this. Definitely needed to learn how to do this since I have to replace ends for a home project I have!

Big Thanks from Zach and Christan The big blind beer belly Johnson, We watched this at work and were victorious in our product. 5*

Thanx! From video: outer jacket, 20-25mm; shield length left: 7 mm (≈ connector ferrule length); insulator left: probe with a wire and bend (2m38s); central conductor: with pin over it, pin should touch insulator, cut small bits progressiveley. Voilà! Salutations du Québec!

Excellent description, simple and precise.

Thank you for your sharing, i learned new information on your video Wich woll help me a lot in my work

When I solder the centre pin I first wet the wire with solder, then wet the hole of the centre pin from the back, grab it with some pliers, heat it from the back and slip it on the wire, while pulling the iron away. This way I don't get solder on the outside of the centre pin, because I'm only touching it with the iron form the back.

Great concise video. Will be using this method for all my crimps. Very neat job

Well done Alan! I have a crimping tool I've used for years but yours looks really good!

Great video and easy instructions to follow. Thanks.

Thank you for this clear and to the point instructional video.

Perfectly executed. Informative and entertaining. Thanks and take care.

Alan, per usual, timely and useful guide. Thanks! ..at the risk of being hyper-tangential, would you ever consider doing a video on measuring receiver sensitivity (db, s+n/n, etc.)? It would be very popular, I am certain. Thanks es 72, Bill, k6whp

+w2aew Nice video, I work in aerospace and do tons of these connectors on a regular basis. I would like to see you do a Triax TNC next, if you get some time. Triax can be tough, especially when doing the center pin. The connector I use the most is the Amphenol 31-2675-1, or the 31-8357-3. Thanks for posting this video, now I can show the new guys how to do BNC connectors.

Thanks a lot, your videos are of great help.

Best vid I found on this subject. Good job!

Excellent, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!

love you alan for these awesome videos

Thank you sir for your packaged information

Very nice tutorial. I would like to point out, You forgot to mention the center pin on those BNC's is captive and that the pin should click into place when inserting the coax into the connector. Once the pin is inserted you should not be able to pull the coax back out if you can then it's not installed all the way. Also an easier way to install the connector under the braid is to fan the braid by gripping the coax jacket just under the trim point, place the connector on the dielectric just above the braid and carefully rotate the dielectric in a circle by flexing the dielectric this will fan out the braid uniformly, much harder to explain than actually do. I like to use 4-1 adhesive lined heat shrink as a strain relief. I also add a tiny piece of thinner colored heat shrink over the thicker adhesive lined stuff on both ends for color coding. Makes it easier to quickly identify what test lead is attached to what device. For example on my bench red is always the input to sensitive test equipment such as spectrum analyzer inputs.. I always use green for outputs from signal generators, yellow is always DUT .... Anyhow you get the idea

Very good wonderful work

When you push the cable with the pin into the main connector body, there should be s slight click as it locates.

Thank you, Alan. Much appreciated.

Alan: Can you consider doing a video about DIY cables being assessed using a VNA or perhaps an SA and compare clamp/solder/crimp style results over IoT/Wifi frequencies?

You saved me a lot of trial and error

Very good job sir

Thanks, very easy to follow tutorial!

Hello, great video. I've two questions: -1 for Cb cable Is better of i weld the central pin? 2- how much do you adjust the power of the crimper for the two different crimps? Thank you

You make this look easy... I am going to blame the cheap and nasty coax I have. Still practice makes perfect!

Great Video! Very Helpful. Question: I found that the BNC center pin once inserted into the BNC connector clicks and locks in place and does not come out. After crimping the center pin and the ferrule and pulling to test the crimp everything seemed fine. On some of the crimps I have made I found that the ferrule did not crimp securely and pulling to test the BNC connection gave a false sense of security as it appears that the center pin prevented the BNC connector from detaching from the cable (since the center pin is also crimped to the core of the cable). I decided to do some more tests and crimped some ferrules (using an Xcelite ratcheting crimper) on the BNC connector (with no RG-58 cable / pin) and found that for some BNC connectors the ferrule just slides off after pulling slightly. I tried some unknown brands along with named brand Amphenol BNC with disappointing results. I found that I needed to adjust the tension dial to a higher tension on my crimp tool for the unknown brand BNC connector ferrule to crimp satisfactory to the BNC connector. Some other brands such as Provo BNC connectors had their ferrule crimped successfully at the lowest tension setting and seemed to be sturdy when pull testing by hand. I am curious, have you test crimped a ferrule directly on a BNC connector with no RG-58 cable / center pin and does the ferrule appear to be crimped securely when test pulling by hand? Did you need to adjust the tension setting (if available) on your tool?

Hi..this is off topic I know..but I did not know where to ask you...to check a crystal's resonate freq...can you put a signal into the crystal like from a signal generator, to a O scope and when the generator is moved thru the crystals freq will the signal get higher when it resonates... not sure if you know what I mean, but did not know any other way to ask..

Nice video. You commented on having used coax stripper tools. I have one, but it only makes 2 cuts, so doesn't leave the extra 4mm or so of the insulator beyond the braid/foil. Can you comment then on how the final piece would perform (only concerned with HF)?

A#1 Workmanship...Thank you for this video! Question: I see various size and type cables being used in your videos, Which measurements/frequencies is RG-58 used for and not used for.

Thanks for the video. Can u please specify the info on the crimp tool. I urgently need one My techs are not here to help, so i must go over the video and follow the steps.

Great vid my good friend. I'm learning new things every time. This vid will certainly come in very handy for future DIYs thanks for sharing. 👍oh by the way I just subscribed to your videos have a good one mate

Very informative to the point thank you

Thank you! Worked like a charm :)

will you please tell me where to buy these connectors at the best value ?? Also I have the same crimp to as you. Did you purchase the entire Die Set for your crimp Tool. Thank , You Fred

I'm looking for a termination cap for 50 ohm tee connector, only thing I can find is in UK. I guess I solder a 50 ohm resistor on the end of one of these connectors with the center pin and shield?

What is the non-hexagonal slot at the tip of the crimping tool for? Totally unrelated type of crimp, or are there other coaxial connectors that use it? (Always looking for more info on crimp connectors; there seems to be a general lack of what-tool-goes-with-what-connector information available if you don't already know or buy the exact same brand connectors/terminals and tool.)

Why are some connectors rated for 50 ohms, but they fit on a 75 ohm cable? For instance, the Amphenol 31-4321 BNC connector is 50 ohms, but it was made to fit on RG59 cable which is 75 ohms.

VERY NICE clear video and instructions, surprised you are using metric though .!

Good video whats the model and make of you crimp tool,I have several but always need improvment I know you use quality tools thanks Allan

Thanks! Great video and just what I needed.

Really good video!

What are your opinions of compression BNC's? The compression tool is typically less expensive than a quality crimper w/dies and some will do RCA's as well as BNC in the same tool, no dies need to be purchased. Connector pricing may generally be a little higher vs. crimp style, but a person can spend as much as s/he wants to for either, so quality is a debatable issue. I just wonder about compression style durability/reliability vs. crimped vs. soldered. Do you have misgivings about the center conductor slide-in clamp becoming problematic over the long term, even with gold plate? I worry less about the shield, as that seems to receive a fair amount of pressure which remains. Also, strain relief boots are evidently unnecessary with compression connectors, so I suppose that eliminates an added concern/step/expense/.

Thanks, Alan. Very clear presentation.

is it resist for continuous bending? i mean use it in open field plug/unplug etc, isn't it wear quickly just before this small tube?

When I worked in cable I was taught to get that sleeve shoved into the metal area but I don't know shit about BNC connectors and I'm taking the time to learn about ham radio

Hi, very informative can these same hand crimps be used on Fakra type connectors for Coax cable for automotive sat nav cable make up? Or would you suggest others purely for home project diy use

I liked your video and see how to connect a connector to RG59 cable, my question is how do I connect the other side that has the 2 wires ?

I always use rg402/rg405 semi rigid cables just because I can solder them to the cable without crimping. I am unable to get these crimp connectors right 50% of the time for some reason.

Great. Very helpful and well made video.

Lots of great tips for installing connectors when you can't seem to find that data sheet!

Does anyone know how to go about painting your BNC adaptor (black for example)? Is it safe to just spray it on with a can? I've seen a lot of BNC adaptors black and I want to be able to do this with an adaptor that only comes in chrome.

Is it possible to crimp pre made siamese BNC cable? I bought some on Ebay and they are a bit too long. Not sure if the copper would be too thin.

if you're installing security cameras and using either RG59 or RG6 I think it's better using a compression tool rather than a crimping tool. a compression tool if far stronger and more accurate length

Thanks a lot for your details

Thank you, you are great!

I'm in the process of running my RG58 into my new truck and top it off with a BNC connector. I notice you use the TriCrimp frame with a particular dye set. I've looked and asked around but nobody could tell me where to order the crimping tool, and which dye set to order with it? Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks

Thanks this video helped me out a lot!

Great video and nice work.

Thank you bro!

Great video Alan. I am just wondering what would be the useful upper frequency with these hand assembled BNCs if we ignore the loss of the cable. Cause apparently the uniformity of the transmission line is lost at the end of the cable because of compression.