$25 All-Metal Hotend Upgrade For Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, Plus & Max

Рет қаралды 91,042

Жыл бұрын

In this video, I'll be showing you how to upgrade your Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, Plus, or Max 3D printer with a full metal hotend for under $25. You'll also learn step-by-step how to change out your thermistor, allowing you to print at a higher temperature of 280°C. This upgrade will improve the performance of your printer and give you the ability to print with a wider range of filaments. Don't miss out on this easy and affordable upgrade!
Here is the full list of the items that you might need to do this yourself:
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (4 Pack) - amzn.to/3ILv6bP
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (3 Pack) - amzn.to/3HjcPRN
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (2 Pack) - amzn.to/3kxLylX
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (Just 1) - amzn.to/3HjvfSp
Copperhead Heat Break C-E (If you are looking for a better quality heat break get this one) - bit.ly/Bimetallic-Heat-Break-...
Aluminum Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CKCIar
High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CQVIUV
Stainless Steel M2 Bolts - amzn.to/3XmuRZ2
Stainless Steel Metric Bolt Assortment - amzn.to/3XKsuze
Thermistor 100k NTC 3950 M3 Stud - amzn.to/3QQ5M6q
Heat Shrink Tubing (If you are just going to just cut the old wire and solder it make sure to use something like this) - amzn.to/3D1mRV7
JST PH2.0 Connector kit ( To replace thermistor plug) - amzn.to/3J5lSan
JST PH2.0 Connector kit with Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3XHG1Hx
Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool Only - amzn.to/3weB7pS
You might want to use some thermal paste to get better heat transfer but you don't have to:
Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste - amzn.to/3w15Bvw
If you're looking for the latest Elegoo firmware you can find it here - www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-print...
Links to Printers:
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max - bit.ly/NeptuneMax
Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus - bit.ly/Neptune-3-Plus
Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro - bit.ly/ElegooNeptune3Pro
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max (Amazon) - Coming Soon
Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus (Amazon) - amzn.to/3kbB0IN
Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (Amazon) - Coming Soon
3d Printer Filament That I Use:
PolyLite ABS - bit.ly/PolyLite-ABS
PolyLite ASA - bit.ly/PolyLite-ASA
PolyFlex TPU 95 (Flexable) - bit.ly/PolyFlex-TPU-95
PolyLite Silk PLA Blue - bit.ly/PolyLiteSilkPLABlue
NylonX Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersNylonX
PolyTerra Marble PLA - bit.ly/PolyTerraMarblePLA
TECSONAR Tricolor PLA - amzn.to/3H79d5N
Build Series PLA - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeri...
Build Series Silky PLA - bit.ly/BuildSeriesSilkyPLAMat...
Build Series ABS - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeri...
Build Series PETG - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeri...
PRO Series Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersPROSeries...
Amazon 3D Printing Filament:
PLA - amzn.to/3gsLE9Z
PETG - amzn.to/3pXjjvu
ABS - amzn.to/3wsTRjS
ASA - amzn.to/2RX8dtM
Polycarbonate - amzn.to/3cLdr38
Nylon - amzn.to/3iNGeI2
Editing & Camera Gear:
Canon EOS R - amzn.to/3ULd2AH
77in Tripod - amzn.to/3FICPFw
Studio Lights & Stands - amzn.to/3HqSGtv
Thermal Camera TOPDON TC001 - amzn.to/3HquffP
DJI Pocket 2 4K Handheld 3-Axis Gimbal - amzn.to/3UOqmVc
Accessories Kit for DJI Pocket 2 - amzn.to/3Waszeq
Video Editing Software - bit.ly/Wondershare-Filmora-Vi...
________________________________________________
Note : Most of the links that I use that go to products are affiliate link. This means I make a small commission on anything that you happen buy using them. This is at no extra charge to you and this helps support the work I do on this channel. 😁👍
________________________________________________
#Elegoo #Neptune3 #3dPrinting #3dScanning #DIY #RandyMay

Пікірлер: 459

@konior21 Жыл бұрын

You should heat up the block before removing the heat break (so you don't break it) and also tighten the nozzle while it's at the highest temp you print at or you're going to have a leak.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

So I took a propane torch to the stock heat block to try and get it off with no luck as well. That being said I know that the thread lock should weaken when hot but I had no luck. As for tightening the nozzle fully when it's up to temp, that is how I normally change out any of my nozzles. I thought that was common knowledge but thinking about that more, I should have talked about that in the video seeing that people new to this wouldn't know that. Anyways thanks for the comment and info. 😁👍

@thorntontarr2894 Жыл бұрын

@@randymay Thanks for your update on Mark's first point and while I too only tighten nozzles when hot, your recognition of a novice's knowledge shows you do understand the point and why you should have commented about it. Well done, mate.

@zhennik263 Жыл бұрын

Thermal block costs 2$, not even 8. It is easyer to buy barrier and block together

@eaman11 6 ай бұрын

@@randymay Don't use a blow torch, just heat the extruder as usual and then wiggle the heat breaker gently and then unscrew it. Run a PID each time you mess around there.

@albertpang5330 Жыл бұрын

Hey man, your video was super helpful/insightful. Love how clear sounding your audio is, and your style of delivery is perfect - not draggy and straight to the point. Thanks!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks and that is the goal of this channel for the most part. I've got sick of seeing videos that just waste your time and get to the point after 20 minutes.

@hakeemchampion6238 Жыл бұрын

Dude thank you for making a video about this, I've been looking for a teardown / tutorial about how to replace the hot end on this printer for weeks, now I can upgrade my printer without having to worry if elegoo used some non standard parts. I'm also way more confident that ill be able to fix the printer if the nozzel ever gets clogged up. So overall thank you and I hope your channel gets the recognition it deserves in the 3d printer community because this video was very well made and very information.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Well thank you very much and I'm happy to hear that this video has been that helpful for you. 😁👍 If you want to help with growing the channel feel free to share any of my videos if you find them to be useful to others.

@jubb1984 Жыл бұрын

Thanks a bunch dude! Very nicely done tut on how to do it and thank you so much for including a parts list! Saves me a bunch of headache and time, superb!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Glad I could help! 😁👍

@jubb1984 Жыл бұрын

Every part is as advertised =) forgot to buy the damn screws tho, gotta wait a few more days xD dammit DONT forget to buy the screws...apparently they are super uncommon in shops nowadays (at least where i live).

@testoww Жыл бұрын

Right on point, AMAZING editing and very clear video, kudos to you sir! 🙂

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks 😁

@chrisshaw451 7 ай бұрын

One of the best printer videos I have seen, saved for future use :)

@randymay 7 ай бұрын

Well I'm happy to hear that 😁👍

@loc4725 Жыл бұрын

That was an excellent video, short but to the point and well put together. Thanks!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks 😁 happy to help

@moji3812 Жыл бұрын

Yeah👌

@IIIRuin Жыл бұрын

This is so incredibly helpful. Thank you so much for making this video.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

No problem and I'm happy to hear that it was helpful. 😁

@steevesaj1 Жыл бұрын

Legitimately this is what I've been looking for over the course of days. Thank you!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Yeah I've seen a lot of talk about it so I just took the plunge bought the stuff and did it. So hopefully this is helpful to a lot of people now and I'm happy that you were able to find the video. 😊👍

@kennethdoherty1547 Жыл бұрын

I found that removing the 2 screws that hold fan shroud but waiting to disconnect the fan wires and remove the shroud until after you remove the whole assembly from the printer makes removing the fan wires then the fan shroud much easier. But thank you for the tutorial and the links for the parts. Very helpful

@sunriseshell 3 ай бұрын

Great info. ALWAYS do a PID tune after making changes on the hotend (even just removing the silicone sock).

@debbiegarcia9748 Ай бұрын

Thank you for sharing. This helped me a lot.

@jayfc3 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for this. Went with the Copperhead and copper block. Right now I just want the headroom this affords and the ability to print more exotic like material down the road. Appreciate the video. Thank you.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

No problem and let me know how that all turns out

@jayfc3 Жыл бұрын

I know it's been ahile but I think I may have finally gotten it working well. I had intially taken it back out because I experienced clogging. Reinstalled it all and PID tuned, then ran an elaborate retraction file. Upped retractions from 2 to 3(.5?) and so far so good. Upped retraction speed as well from 60 to 120 and it works, the test said it would, but I'm still feeling that's high. Anyway, thanks again.

@JackOiswatching Жыл бұрын

@@jayfc3 I noticed retraction issues after this upgrade as well and was able to drastically reduce hot end temperature. Did you see a similar effect?

@taylors-workshop Жыл бұрын

Another great video. keep up the great work.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Well thank you and that's the plan haha 😁👍

@bocarlsson3rd Ай бұрын

This was a lot of help. I recently broke off my nozzle when tightening it. Then I tried to use a screw extractor and cracked the whole block 🤦 This video helped me with the disassembly and it also gave me some tips when I'm gonna buy a new one. Thanks for the great video /Bo Ps. The problem was a bulge in the filament so the extruder couldn't feed it in. I of course realized this efter I broke the nozzle.

@Johnathan0055 Жыл бұрын

Nice video! I just got the N3pro for Christmas been working awesome but the screen lock up on me and the touch screen doesn’t work now..lot of people said to up the firmware..and thought you might want to make a video on that to help me and others out thanks

@imagesh1 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for this! Had already ordered the heatbreak and block from your previous video, looking foreword to putting everything in action soon! Based on your measurements from the last video, I've ordered some 2020 extrusion and connectors to build the enclosure frame. I've got a pre-cut 32" x 42" plywood base to build everything on.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Very nice let me know how all that stuff turns out once everything comes in. 😁👍

@DavidMoulton Жыл бұрын

Really appreciate this. Thanks!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

No problem 👍

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Here is the full list of the items that you might need to do this yourself: All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (4 Pack) - amzn.to/3ILv6bP All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (3 Pack) - amzn.to/3HjcPRN All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (2 Pack) - amzn.to/3kxLylX All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium (Just 1) - amzn.to/3HjvfSp Copperhead Heat Break C-E (If you are looking for a better quality heat break get this one) - bit.ly/Bimetallic-Heat-Break-Upgrade Aluminum Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CKCIar High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block (Must use M2 X 16mm bolts) - amzn.to/3CQVIUV Stainless Steel M2 Bolts - amzn.to/3XmuRZ2 Stainless Steel Metric Bolt Assortment - amzn.to/3XKsuze Thermistor 100k NTC 3950 M3 Stud - amzn.to/3QQ5M6q Heat Shrink Tubing (If you are just going to just cut the old wire and solder it make sure to use something like this) - amzn.to/3D1mRV7 JST PH2.0 Connector kit ( To replace thermistor plug) - amzn.to/3J5lSan JST PH2.0 Connector kit with Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3XHG1Hx Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool Only - amzn.to/3weB7pS You might want to use some thermal paste to get better heat transfer but you don't have to: Slice Engineering Boron Nitride Paste - amzn.to/3w15Bvw If you're looking for the latest Elegoo firmware you can find it here - www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support Links to Printers: Elegoo Neptune 3 Max - bit.ly/NeptuneMax Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus - bit.ly/Neptune-3-Plus Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro - bit.ly/ElegooNeptune3Pro Elegoo Neptune 3 Max (Amazon) - Coming Soon Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus (Amazon) - amzn.to/3kbB0IN Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (Amazon) - Coming Soon 3d Printer Filament That I Use: PolyLite ABS - bit.ly/PolyLite-ABS PolyLite ASA - bit.ly/PolyLite-ASA PolyFlex TPU 95 (Flexable) - bit.ly/PolyFlex-TPU-95 PolyLite Silk PLA Blue - bit.ly/PolyLiteSilkPLABlue NylonX Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersNylonX PolyTerra Marble PLA - bit.ly/PolyTerraMarblePLA TECSONAR Tricolor PLA - amzn.to/3H79d5N Build Series PLA - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesPLA Build Series Silky PLA - bit.ly/BuildSeriesSilkyPLAMatterHackers Build Series ABS - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesABS Build Series PETG - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeriesPETG PRO Series Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersPROSeriesFilament Amazon 3D Printing Filament: PLA - amzn.to/3gsLE9Z PETG - amzn.to/3pXjjvu ABS - amzn.to/3wsTRjS ASA - amzn.to/2RX8dtM Polycarbonate - amzn.to/3cLdr38 Nylon - amzn.to/3iNGeI2 Editing & Camera Gear: Canon EOS R - amzn.to/3ULd2AH 77in Tripod - amzn.to/3FICPFw Studio Lights & Stands - amzn.to/3HqSGtv Thermal Camera TOPDON TC001 - amzn.to/3HquffP DJI Pocket 2 4K Handheld 3-Axis Gimbal - amzn.to/3UOqmVc Accessories Kit for DJI Pocket 2 - amzn.to/3Waszeq Video Editing Software - bit.ly/Wondershare-Filmora-Video-Editing ________________________________________________ Note : Most of the links that I use that go to products are affiliate link. This means I make a small commission on anything that you happen buy using them. This is at no extra charge to you and this helps support the work I do on this channel. 😁👍 ________________________________________________

@Landeux Жыл бұрын

Any Canadian link?

@kmangaminguk Жыл бұрын

Hi! Yours is the only tear down video i have come across, thanks so much for psoting it. Im having an issue whereby my neptune 3 pro direct drive kind of grinds the pla instead of extruding it. ITll start printing the buddah, but after maybe ten layers, it seems to grind rather than extrude. I had a major fail last night, the type where all the plastic gets up into the whole mechanism, and im wondering if it might have melted the plastic inside. So i'm ordering new pieces through your affiliate links. Do you know how i tear down the gears to clean them? Is that psossible?

@dvomang Жыл бұрын

Great video!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks, I'm happy to hear that you like it and hope that it makes this a little easier if you're planning on doing this.

@GamingForGamerz66 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for this. Lots of interest in it~~!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

No problem 👍

@AeroHikeProductions Жыл бұрын

Yeeesssss awesome!!! Thank you mate 😊

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks, let me know if you end up doing this.

@gaveintothedarkness Жыл бұрын

clear and concise!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks

@dundyshibby Жыл бұрын

Awesome video! Thank you so much!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Well thank you very much and no problem. Let me know if you end up doing this.

@dundyshibby Жыл бұрын

@@randymay trying to get that Max first!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

@@dundyshibby Well yeah that is a problem on it's own right now 😅

@yokaijoey9672 9 ай бұрын

Title says $25 upgrade but like the guy I have none of the odd stuff so need to buy a whole pack of stuff 🤣will add everything from the description and do a stupidly large amazon order aha great video :)

@dracosummoner 2 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for this. My 3D prints had started having more and more errors, so I took a look at the condition of the nozzle. It was ... unsatisfactory. I have new hot ends, a new heat block, M2 bolts, and different sizes of nozzles on the way, thanks to your advice. :)

@dracosummoner 2 ай бұрын

My materials arrived today. Printer is happily printing a little happy Buddha (personally I always thought it was Budai since Siddhartha wasn't fat). I don't think I've ever fully disassembled and reassembled anything at this level of complexity before, and it's all thanks to you. Thank you so much.

@dracosummoner 2 ай бұрын

I don't suppose you would happen to be able to help with this, but for some reason, my heat block is now covered in what looks like caramelized residue, as was the old one. Do you think my silicone heat cover may have partially melted somehow?

@logancrank1310 8 ай бұрын

yo you really saved my ass man. i lost a nozzle that broke off in the heat block i was loosing my mind, thank you

@randymay 8 ай бұрын

I'm happy I was able to help in around about way haha 👍

@GR-jd8re Жыл бұрын

This video is super well done and perfectly concise, thank you! Quick question, you mentioned using an enclosure, which is what I want to do for my N3 Pro, but I know it’s recommended to move the PSU outside the enclosure for most printers, is that the case here? Or can the stock PSU hold up in the hotter environment? Thank you again!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Yeah it is always best to keep the PSU cooler but you really don't have to worry about it in my experience. Typically the enclosures get to around 100° f .

@GR-jd8re Жыл бұрын

@@randymay oh awesome thank you!

@mscir Жыл бұрын

Thanks very much. Well done. Do you have a video that shows how to adjust the Z-offset anywhere? Do you have a video on how to use the Neptune 3 (plu) anywhere for newbies?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks. I don't have any videos showing how to use the z-offset but I think it can be found under leveling or tuning when printing.

@Chris0612 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the tutorial! When fusing the thermistor cables, do i have to look after the polarity?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks and it doesn't seem to matter which cable goes to what wire.

@mrchilaquiles5507 Жыл бұрын

Broooooo thank youuuu!!!!!! Seriously!!!!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

No problem and I hope it helps 😁👍

@_Garm_ Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! :D

@randymay Жыл бұрын

No problem 😊👍 let me know if you end up doing it.

@_Garm_ Жыл бұрын

@@randymay will do, hopefully i can order it soon here from inside EU :D

@mehmetaligorur4183 Ай бұрын

Is it a MK8 or M6 nozzle? And thank you for the video for sure 👋

@thorntontarr2894 Жыл бұрын

Clear and concise. However, have you investigate either the Volcano style hot end or the multi-port nozzles? I am keen to print faster rather than print hotter.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Thanks and I haven't really looked into different hot end setups for this. I know that if your doing to print faster you are going to want more heat to keep up with the flow of the filament.

@nojuserminas9982 Жыл бұрын

Amazing video dude!! one questiion. how you know what parts fit hot end? i mean how do you know that ender 3 parts fits n3p?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

I'm happy that you liked the video. I know they all work because I bought all of it and tested it all to make sure it would work before I made the video haha.

@EnbyGremlinAsh 6 ай бұрын

Hi there! Thank you so much for this great guide! Its super helpful. I just had one question, if i upgraded the heat break and heat block, would I be able to leave the thermistor stock? I want to print petg mostly at around 255 or 260!

@randymay 6 ай бұрын

Yeah as long as you are not going over that 260c temp you should be fine

@thejoetandy 6 ай бұрын

Hey Randy May! What retraction settings did you end up at, after these mods?

@ThatADHDad 2 ай бұрын

Can I use these same links to replace the parts on my Neptune 4 plus?

@haydenc2742 4 ай бұрын

Just stick the heatblock on a gas stove, or heat reaaaly hot with a propane torch to melt up the thread locker...then unscrew so it won't snap off the thin neck of the heatblock

@randymay 4 ай бұрын

I used a torch and it didn't help and I didn't want to over do it and melt the aluminum

@DellTrotter-dk2dp 4 ай бұрын

Can I use this on the Neptune 4 plus? Any help appreciated, had the stock hotend/extruder explode with plan

@Menardbam 3 ай бұрын

How did you make the bimetal hotend snug on the all copper heat block? There's a lot of play unless if i screw it completely in, but then the heat block is sitting on the extruder.

@koshhh 6 ай бұрын

Hi there - was wondering how you would suggest proceeding as I have just opened the unit and noticed that a) the PTFE has become exposed slightly away from tubing, b) the whole unit head seems to have been decaying after only a few weeks of use, and c) I cant actually remove the heating rod....

@Franklinplatt64 3 ай бұрын

Hey 2 questions. When I thread the heat brake into the block there’s not much thread on the other side for the nozzle. Did I do something wrong. And 2nd when I just put in the metal heat brake it’s hard for the filament to go into the hole. I’ve actuslly been unsuccessful at getting it to work at all.

@despiertateymotivate Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video! I would like to know please: will all these changes and parts work in a Neptune 3?…I really want to upgrade one of my N3 to be able to print ASA…thanks in advance if you can answer this question!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Yeah you should be able to use these on that printer as well.

@rndm89 Ай бұрын

I noticed some of the bimetal heatbreaks have different lengths the one you linked eg is 20mm (copper section), but the one available on amazon AU is 13.5mm. Would this matter?

@DennisWarner 2 ай бұрын

I've done the upgrade. I manually leveled my bed and hit out level and the printer screen is stuck on booting. any idea what I did wrong? is this why I need to do that PID tune?

@andyfox7107 11 ай бұрын

Hi. Excellent vid. Just a tad confused when it comes to the ptfe tube, did you or did you not put it back in with the new hot end? Thanks

@randymay 11 ай бұрын

In the video I didn't put it back in and as you saw it worked but I did put it in later. You do need to cut it down to about 30mms due to it no longer going all the way down to the nozzle.

@andyfox7107 11 ай бұрын

@@randymay thanks so much for the reply. V much appreciated. I’ve just had the Neptune 3 Max for a few weeks and I’m so nervous taking something that big and expensive apart, but your video is so reassuring. Thanks again.

@gavinboyd7617 5 ай бұрын

The 2 x M2 16mm bolts are the same size on the Neptune 4?

@attackonhumby 5 ай бұрын

did i miss something or does the heatbreak need the plastic installed? cause you cut it to match the old one but there is no link for it and i don't see it on the link to the heatbreak. thx

@MasterRisto Жыл бұрын

Would you have a video on the settings you use for the Max and Plus? I don't see a profile for them in Cura.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

I don't but you can download the Elegoo version of Cura and get all that info if you like. Here is the link drive.google.com/file/d/1fLB4Z-bNiXrswew_Bic5BTAtMd5Ku3U6/view

@hijackthat974 Жыл бұрын

Hello my friend, first of all thank you for the great video you shared with us. I would like to ask you few more questions, I just got into 3d printing few months ago and I'm the average noob user so my questions might be silly: - I've read somewhere online that it is recommended to change the PTFE tube every month (i've never done it so far and have consumed 3KG of PLA so far), should I do that? If I upgrade the hotend like you in the video with the all-metal, that does not "burn" the PTFE anymore, so I should not replace that, is that correct? - Can you make also a video on how to dismount all the roller wheels in case they wear out? I was able only to reach and disassembly only the print-plate wheels, but probably the wheels on the print head I can dismount them after dismounting the print head, but what about the Z Axis? There's one wheel per side on the Z Axis I am not able to understand how to disassembly. Thank you so much in advance for your help man

@randymay Жыл бұрын

If you upgrade the hot end to what I did you won't need to change out the tube pretty much ever unless you wear a hole in it.

@NathanClevenger1337 5 ай бұрын

I have been having nothing but issues with that copperhead heat break. Does the bowden tube need to be firmly pressed against each end as to not have it move? Because there is a tiny amount of play, which is enough for it to build up a thin disk. That cools and clogs the heat break. I tried removing the bowden tube all together. And all that happens is the filament curls in a spiral in the inner chamber of the heat break. Till it's not able to curl anymore, which leads to it not feeding anymore. I had to put the stock heat break back because I was sick of having to keep tearing down the hotend to unclog the heat break. I messed about with retraction all the way down to 1mm of retraction with zero change in stringing from the stock slicer settings of 6mm (temp tower also didn't yield any change in stringing as well). And even then it still clogged. Whereas the stock heat break runs flawlessly. What am I doing wrong with the copperhead heat break for it to keep clogging. I thought that thing was supposed to stop clogging, all it has been doing is clog. Thanks!

@Spirited282 11 ай бұрын

Very well detailed thank you. Just received my Max a few weeks ago and may consider this upgrade as i do ABS from time to time

@randymay 11 ай бұрын

Let me know if you end up doing it and how it works out for you. I did find that it started to under extrude a little bit so you might need to tune your retraction settings after doing this. A good starting point is 1 mm retraction at 27 mm per second.

@Spirited282 11 ай бұрын

@@randymay Thank you i will for sure

@BryanBalak Жыл бұрын

Added these mods to my Neptune 2s and they work great. Getting ready to do this on my 3 Plus soon. Does the PTFE tube serve any feeding function in the Neptune 3 printers? The upgraded heatbreaks don't have the deep "cutout" for the tubing to be inserted, but there is a little bit. In the video, you seem to leave it out entirely, so I'm guessing you no longer need it at all. Just wondered if it should be cut shorter. When the filament is loaded, it won't bind in the direct drive system?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

So the PTFE tube does help when loading the filament so if you cut it down to about 30mm it fits back in there and helps.

@BryanBalak Жыл бұрын

@@randymay thank you!

@MrOrange645 Жыл бұрын

This is GREAT! Thank you! I literally bought an SV06 in addition to a Neptune 3 Pro, because the SV06 can go up to 300 degrees stock. I'm going to use my N3Pro to print TPU and lower temp filaments. But I love the idea I can so easily swap my N3Pro over to high temp. I may be buying some of these parts just to keep on hand, just in case.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Honestly not a bad plan and yeah being able to upgrade it for fairly cheap is nice as well so you can have two high temp printers.

@float32 Жыл бұрын

How do you like the SV06 compare to the N3Pro? I would have had an SV06 if they were in stock at the time.

@MrOrange645 Жыл бұрын

@@float32 I just got my SV06 a week ago and haven't had much time to play with it, but I love it so far. My N3Pro should be here tomorrow.

@loc4725 Жыл бұрын

@@float32 I was going to buy an SV06 but the growing screams on Reddit over their hit & miss build quality have put me off. And now I know how to upgrade the '3 Pro there for me at least really isn't any advantage.

@Chlef Жыл бұрын

@@loc4725 i bought an sv06 and i have not had 1 successful print yet. i was told its such a good printer and that its the best printer for beginners, yeah no its horrible. ive tried everything to fix it and nothings worked. i plan on returning it and buying a neptune 3 pro.

@dwabbs Жыл бұрын

Great Video! Quick question about the PTFE tube, is there a stop for the PTFE tube when I reinstall it? I was running into some issues because I may have cut my PTFE tube too short and it was moving in and out of the heat break. I tried running it without the PTFE all together and its damn near impossible to get the filament loaded.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

There is a small lip on the new part to hold the PTFE tube and it's just held in place with pressure from the top of the head brake so if it's too short it will move around in there. You can buy some more PTFE tube and cut a new piece. I cut mine to 30mm but it might be different for you, that being said that would be a good starting point. Here is a link to some new PTFE amzn.to/3nChx5N

@dwabbs Жыл бұрын

@@randymay thank you so much! I’ll give it a shot!

@WearBearFloyd 2 ай бұрын

late to the party, but would anyone know if this would fit on the neptune 3 basic, not the pro, max or plus, just the neptune 3 model.

@TheLazerace7 Ай бұрын

I did this upgrade but when I did the Thermistor the nozzle temperature can't hold at target, keeps going above or below

@NiK-ih6lc 4 ай бұрын

Привет, как смог поставить 280 градусов? У меня не получается. Прошивка последняя. Какая у вас стоит прошивка?

@dejedejsson Жыл бұрын

You can use the Ender 3s1 pro 300c thermistor, but it seems to require drilling into the heat block.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Good to know.

@yosomoghty 10 ай бұрын

@randymay hey man it turns out I accidentally ordered the wrong size of heat pipe thing. But I was able to just use a angle grinder to change the length.

@randymay 10 ай бұрын

Well I'm happy to hear that you're able to at least get it working and figure out what the problem was

@dusty101377o6 8 ай бұрын

Great video!! One question though - after the install (using the all-copper block), I'm having trouble with the hotend temperature maxing out at around 130 C. Not sure if this might be a thermistor problem (already tried reseating it a few times) or an actual problem with the heating of the new block. I know you eventually replaced the thermistor, but is this something you ran into after reinstalling the stock thermistor?

@randymay 8 ай бұрын

That is odd and I would recheck everything to make sure that none of the wires are broken or if something isn't sitting in the proper way

@dusty101377o6 8 ай бұрын

Figured it out. I have a CHT nozzle on this and I had screwed the heatbreak all the way in, leaving a gap between the nozzle and the block. I figured out that the nozzle needs to be all the way in, touching the block, and the gap should be left between the heatbreak and the block. Works like a charm now.

@Yungaaronn 10 ай бұрын

It would be so cool if you did a series fully upgrading the Neptune 3 max to the ultimate large high temperature printer 😅

@randymay 9 ай бұрын

Yeah that would be cool but also very time consuming. That being said I might need to get it setup to print ASA and Nylon for a large project I'm wanting to do for the channel.

@Oblithian 3 ай бұрын

Elegoo should just sell the components as an after purchase upgrade.

@kevinsgarage 9 ай бұрын

Have you switched to a larger nozzle? If so, what settings did you change to?

@randymay 9 ай бұрын

I did used a 0.8mm nozzle and all I did was use the default profile and changed the nozzle size in the slicer. I did fine that I needed to mess with the retraction a bit due to it under extruding a lot but that was it.

@evopainterevo4271 Жыл бұрын

Great video! So who got their Neptune up to 280°C?? Does it work with new firmware settings?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

I haven't tried it but Elegoo did tell me that you can get up to that temp with the newest firmware

@benheinrich8278 7 ай бұрын

Do you have a tutorial for doing the thermistor wire clips?

@randymay 7 ай бұрын

I don't

@yokaijoey9672 9 ай бұрын

When you say with the right nozzle, I'm guessing you mean a larger one? Totally new to this 😬 also would this upgrade allow the use of nylon filament?

@randymay 9 ай бұрын

So this will allow you to print using nylon but you are also going to need an enclosure to keep the heat in so the nylon doesn't warp. I have no idea what I meant by the right nozzle due to not having context or a time stamp to what I was saying. 😅👍

@christ13111975 Жыл бұрын

Very nice! The temp range was the only thing that had me hesitatiing. What about temperatures above 280°C? Can you set 300°C as well by gcode on the new firmware?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

According to Elegoo you can go up to 300° c on the newest firmware through g code. They did suggest not doing so due to the thermostat not being up to par even the one I show in this video isn't rated for that temperature. I did see some other ones online that are but they didn't have the same numbers as this thermistor so there might be some tweaks you have to do.

@priaposcompany9342 Жыл бұрын

@@randymay Maybe, Can I use Ender 3 S1 Pro thermistor?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

@@priaposcompany9342 idk

@s0d4c4n 6 ай бұрын

I have not found a single person who has been able to successfully set the firmware over 260c. I've wasted a lot of time and money trying.

@AZ-Dawa Ай бұрын

@@s0d4c4n do you think replacing the motherboard with the new 4 max or using the max4 firmware to update the max3 will work ?

@simoneparis9630 Жыл бұрын

do you think it is possible to mount a volcano V6 system? to increase the volumetric flow

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Well technically yeah you could do just about anything to these but it's going to take some retrofitting and design work to make that work. 😅

@travisfaught5057 Жыл бұрын

Why do you it need the blue tube on the new one? The metal parts are the same length? I just ordered all these pieces, but want to make sure I understand it all. Thanks!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

You can use it without the blue tub but it will make it harder to load the filament. I suggest cutting the tube to about 30mm long and put it back in and you will be fine.

@hellalike 9 ай бұрын

So I'm a novice to working on the print head and all the parts associated with it so I have a question: When replacing the HeatBreak and the Heat Block, do i need to put the blue tube back in the Heatbreak like it was when i take it off?

@randymay 9 ай бұрын

It's best if you put the PTFE tube back in to make it easier to load filament. That being said you do need to cut it down to about 30mm so it will fit.

@Freakmaster480 Жыл бұрын

Are there any upgrade thermistors that come pre-equipped with the proper connector. I'm not the most technical person in the world and while I think I could make it work I'd be willing to pay a few dollars extra for the peace of mind.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

I wasn't able to find any with the proper connector but cutting the original wires and soldering this on was very easy to be honest

@makoskid Жыл бұрын

Very interesting video and well presented. I have a few questions, to me it seems that the stock hot end (block and throat) are already metal so why does replacing with mentioned parts matter? Also if one puts back the PFTE does this not run into issues with heat? Or does the PTFE no longer run into the nozzle with new parts? Disclaimer I don’t even have a printer as of yet (on order) so my questions may be off topic.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Yeah the parts on both are metal but the stock parts allow the PTFE tube to go all the way to the nozzle and the after market one stops it at the very top. The top part of the copper part doesn't get up to the temps of the hot end.

@Chris0612 Жыл бұрын

@@randymay sorry for the question. How do i know how long the PTFE tubing has to be? And my second question, because i cant find an answer anywhere: do i have to disassambly the whole unit to change the PTFE tubing, because Elegoo recomends to do it monthly? Cant find a replacement one, only the one comes with the printer.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

@@Chris0612 If you are upgrading to the all metal you need to cut it to about 30mm long. You don't have to take if fully apart you can just take the wires off the heat block and loosen the 1 grub screw on the back of the hotend to get the heat break out. If you do upgrade the hotend the you would need to change out the PTFE tube due to it not getting that hot any more.

@LeeKenshin7 11 ай бұрын

Just verifying, "you would [NOT] need to change out the PTFE? And thanks for these comments, I may not have replaced the PTFE tubing otherwise 😅 since I couldn't see it on the new parts in the video. Btw, is it worth it to replace the tubing with a Capricorn Bowden one (have some extra lying around that I can cut to 30mm)?

@mytubemurray 10 ай бұрын

@@LeeKenshin7 Also interested in the answer to this. I am assuming the PTFE tube can and probably should be added back in after its cut and yes, if you have Capricorn Bowden stuff then I would use that instead as its meant to be 'better'. @randymay can you confirm please :)

@philliplutkiewicz9914 8 ай бұрын

The 2 bolts (allen head) holding the heater block to the hot end assembly, what size are those? Most of the allen head bolts to remove the fan assembly and the hot end were 2mm, but these two INSIDE the heater block appear to be smaller? Even smaller than the 1.5mm allen I had. Very confused here...

@randymay 8 ай бұрын

I honestly don't remember 😅

@petherdurand 7 ай бұрын

Awesome video!!!, just solve me If I do upgrades and print the Polymaker PA6 with the N3MAX that I am about to get. What was your experience with this fillament and the printer at 280°C?

@randymay 7 ай бұрын

I haven't really used it over 260cafter doing this to be honest. I would need a full enclosure for this full setup so I could print abs/asa and I have other fully enclosed prints that I can do that with right now. 😅👍

@s0d4c4n 6 ай бұрын

I have not seen anyone successfully getting this firmware to go over 260c. I don't think it's possible.

@AZ-Dawa Ай бұрын

@@s0d4c4nI tried everything possible but still not going over 260c I updated the firmware and still not going over 260

@fredm6303 11 ай бұрын

Hi, when you replace the heat block (high end one) & the All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium, did you also replace or upgrade the Bowden tube?

@randymay 11 ай бұрын

You don't have to upgrade it but you do have to cut it down to about 30mm

@fredm6303 11 ай бұрын

@@randymay Thank you

@Sturmvogel 10 ай бұрын

Thank you for this video. Has anyone had a problem getting your N3P calibrated after doing this? I adjusted the height then ran the auto calibrate and the nozzle hits the bed and pushes on it so far that I can see the plate move down. The whole nozzle assembly is lower than stock and its like machine can't "sense" that it is touching the bed. I ended up having to go back to stock as it was unusable. EDIT: Just read the newest comments and seems like I'm not alone. For what its worth I'm using the Copperhead heat break C-E, and the High Temp Plated Solid Copper Heater Block listed in the video description.

@randymay 10 ай бұрын

You might need to check all the parts you got to make sure everything is the same size. Because if anything is longer thicker then you will run into problems.

@philmaiewski1257 9 ай бұрын

@@randymay But in your video you say the set up required longer screws. Was that a consequence of the specific heat block's holes not being sunk as far as the stock, or the heat throat being longer than the stock one?

@donnbrasco31 8 ай бұрын

@@philmaiewski1257 I just took mine apart and the stock heat block's screw holes are set quite a bit farther than the one he replaces it with. I don't have it on hand yet. Just looking at the one in the video.

@enemca 8 ай бұрын

Hello my friend. Thanks for your video. I have a little question for you. How can I increase the nozzle max temperature using software? I want to print at 300 degrees with my printer.

@randymay 8 ай бұрын

According to Elegoo if you update the firmware to the newest one you can print at higher temps

@s0d4c4n 6 ай бұрын

I have not found a single person who has successfully got the firmware to go over 260c. I spent a lot of time and money trying.

@lindamuvic8110 11 ай бұрын

Where are the parts you mentioned would be in the description down below, particularly the 0.4mm filament heeded name, model#, seller?

@randymay 11 ай бұрын

@shyperson8133 Жыл бұрын

Hello I have aittle question because I'm not 100 percent sure about it. You mentioned using thermal paste on the description. Where to use it if I may ask? Sorry if its obvious I'm new to it and wanna learn as much as possible. Thank you

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Around the copper part that goes into the heat sink

@shyperson8133 Жыл бұрын

@@randymay thank you very much

@NarekAvetisyan Жыл бұрын

What about laser heads can this printer do laser cutting and engraving? Thx!

@randymay Жыл бұрын

I have seen people put laser heads on 3D printers that being said I have never done it.

@zahirazam2009 10 ай бұрын

nozzle keep hitting the bed after this upgrade. ... do we need to adjust ABL sensor as well?

@randymay 10 ай бұрын

Make sure to measure all of your new parts and make sure that they're the same size as the original ones.

@nanoman172 9 ай бұрын

Is there a heater block that you know of that'll fit a Neptune 3 pro that can take a V6 nozzle?

@randymay 9 ай бұрын

No that I know without having to make some custom stuff.

@gigatron2000 Жыл бұрын

First, great tutorial. I'm in the middle of doing the same to my N3 plus. But I've run into an issue - with the new screws for the heater block, I find the block wiggles, because the screw holes are beveled, instead of straight walled like the original. I got the m2×16 screws, but mine are button-head. What kind are you using, and do you have the wiggle in the heater block?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Yeah you might get a little bit of wiggle in the block when trying to tighten down the nozzle due to how the setup is. That being said you can use some adjustable pliers to hold the block in place as you tighten up the nozzle and a little bit of movement that you have won't matter.

@gigatron2000 Жыл бұрын

@randymay ok, cool. How much play in the block is acceptable? I mean, it's not swinging around, but it doesn't take much to wiggle it.

@randymay Жыл бұрын

So you can technically not put those bolts in at all as long as you tighten down your nozzle snug against the heat break that's inside of the heat block that whole thing isn't going to go anywhere. Another point that you should make sure is nice and tight is the grub screw that holds in the heat break because if that is loose you'll be able to spend the entire thing.

@gigatron2000 Жыл бұрын

@randymay if you're interested, I came up with a fix, for the wiggle. It's a little low-rent, but it works. All you need is a twist tie (like that comes wrapped around any power cord). Take the twist tie, make one loop around the shaft of the screw, under the head, and screw the screw in place. The twist tie acts as an o-ring, and takes up the space, and removes the wiggle. Now it's nice and tight 😎

@bangbangyoureaboolean1324 11 ай бұрын

By default there a small cut of tube inside the hot end. Do you not need to add that piece with this heat break? Shouldn't there still be a tube pressing against the bottom of the heat break?

@randymay 11 ай бұрын

The point of this is to remove that tube from the hottest part of the hotend assembly. You can cut the default tubing down to about 30mm in length and put it back in to make it easier for the filament to get to the top of the heat break.

@iamlocknar 10 ай бұрын

Well I ended up having to try doing this on my printer, as the original had a major clog (Filled up the silicon cover and made that all useless.). Unfortunately, even with the snippet of the tubing, I couldn't get this to reliably feed the nozzle without it jamming up near the motor (Looks like it just binds up and bunches the filament up in the internals).

@randymay 10 ай бұрын

What material and temps are you printing at?

@iamlocknar 10 ай бұрын

@@randymay just pla, 210. Its almost like it goes into the feed and scrapes the edges until it sticks and then the motor crumples the filament into itself.

@RealJerz 9 ай бұрын

Did you put the blue filament back in ?

@vincentchov5760 Жыл бұрын

I don't have the Iwiss IWS-3220M crimper, but I already have the SN-01BM. Does that work?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Honestly I have no idea 😅

@StuffyAk79 Жыл бұрын

can this be done on the regular elgoo neptune 3 i really wanna get all metal hotend for it but havent found any people doing it on one

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Yeah, it uses the same parts.

@vJoeG-Vids 6 ай бұрын

Great video, I followed along and replace the parts in my N3+ but now, even after leveling the nozzle is pressing on the bed. One attempt after level to print and now there is a nice scratch/groove on the build plate (Ouch) any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Leveling completes with the paper test looking ok Z offset is 1.81 which seems high. Thanks in advance

@vJoeG-Vids 6 ай бұрын

Nevermind, I think I've got it fixed, at the expense of needing a new textured bed loo Permanent Benchy groove now. :)

@calebwaller454 5 ай бұрын

@vJoeG-Vids whatd you do to fix it or whatd you do differently than just setting it to auto level?

@vJoeG-Vids 5 ай бұрын

@@calebwaller454 I had the heatbreak screwed in all the way vs 50/50 Heat break and Nozzle. Also I had some PTFE tubing in the heatbreak forgetting that it was all metal. Once that was sorted out I'm back up and running.

@steadyb78 Жыл бұрын

Hi mate, because the Heat block sits lower as you used m2 x 16mm screws do you have to adjust the z end stop to compensate as I have the N3P printer that has no bed thumb screws to adjust? Thanks

@randymay Жыл бұрын

But the thing is it doesn't sit any lower. The block that I used didn't have holes in the block as deep as the original one so I needed longer bolts to make up for that. The new heat block and break are the length in every other way so there should be no problem with bed clearance.

@steadyb78 Жыл бұрын

@randymay ok thanks for your reply mate

@benjamingivens919 Жыл бұрын

How did you level the printer? My print head wants to return to zero and keeps jamming the nozzle into the print bed due to the parts being a different size

@randymay Жыл бұрын

Honestly everything should be around the same size. I guess measure everything you have and see if something's off by a lot.

@Chris0612 11 ай бұрын

One question as i finally ordered the parts: How do i know how far i have to screw the heatbreak in?

@randymay 11 ай бұрын

You just want it flush with the top of the threads

@JeffSmith-dr9ef 6 ай бұрын

Question for ya... Do you still run a shortened PTFE tube?

@randymay 6 ай бұрын

Yes, cut it down to 30mm

@towerofmilitary Ай бұрын

I made the upgrade (Neptune 3+) with the solid copper heat block, all Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper & Titanium, and the ptfe tube. Halfway through a next print it blocked up and I had to take it apart again. What might have caused it with Elegoo PLA? Also, I am doing a flat print and the surface is now not as smooth as it was before the upgrade. Any thoughts what I am doing wrong? UPDATE: I cannot get it to print successfully now. A print starts and after a while no more filament comes out. I am so frustrated. @randymay

@ArkySouls 28 күн бұрын

I did the same thing and it instantly clogged up. No idea what to do now. Probably gonna go back to stock block tbh.

@tylorkelly168 7 ай бұрын

This video helped a lot! The only problem I'm having is that when I set my temperature to anything over 260 in cura, my hot end will not heat up at all. If I try anything under 260, it does just fine though.

@randymay 7 ай бұрын

Have you updated the firmware on the printer?

@tylorkelly168 7 ай бұрын

@randymay Yes. I updated it maybe 2 months ago

@s0d4c4n 6 ай бұрын

I have not seen a single person that has been able to get the firmware to go over 260. I spent a lot of time and money trying.

@randymay 6 ай бұрын

Have you tried emailing Elegoo and asking if they had a solution?

@s0d4c4n 6 ай бұрын

@@randymay I'll be happy to invest more time in this if I get confirmation that at least one other person has actually done this in real life

@3DPrintedProps Жыл бұрын

How long is the PTFE tube?

@randymay Жыл бұрын

For my setup I cut it down to 30 mm long.

@StevenCookFX Ай бұрын

The thermistor you had in you listing could be causing me grief. I cannot do any printing as I get a thermal runaway error now. :(

@DennisWarner 8 ай бұрын

I heard if you do this you need to run a PID tune. Is this true? And any video on how to do the PID tune.

@randymay 8 ай бұрын

Yeah you should do some PID tuning but I don't have a video about it. I'm sure you can find something about this on KZfaq.

@branopetricek2211 3 ай бұрын

After doing all the steps exactly on a neptune 3 max, I cannot get the filament in :( the little curvature the filament has makes it stuck in the heat break. it seems there`s a gap between the new hot-en and the aluminium heat break... I`m not sure how to proceed - trying to reuse bits of the PTFE lining does not help :/ Anyone with similar issues ?

@randymay 3 ай бұрын

Cut the PTFE tube down to about 30 mm and put it in it'll act as a guide.