Thank You - enjoyed the entire video.

Jerry, I think you are your own toughest critic. You do impecable repairs. Peace

Another amazoing job!!! Going to part two!!!

Thanks Jerry for all the knowledge I've gathered within the last 3 years of watching your videos.. May GodBless you with many more

Thanks for this video Mr Rosa. I have a luthiers shop in NW Indiana and I get jobs like this all the time. i had a neck re-set on a d-28 where some repair guy in Chicago had used a three part eboxy to re-set the neck. I guess he figured it would be the last time anybody would ever do one on this guitar. Well 10 yr's later it winds up in my shop and hloy cow what a mess!! I can relate to your frustration.

i love what you said!! "I didn't create this problem. I'm just trying to FIX it,"

Great work. Learned a lot. Thanks.

Another example of Jerry can fix anything. Jerry you will say"Oh no, not everything", but at least every video you have done is an incredible repair/restore on so many instruments. Love you and your videos! Can't wait to see pt.2 and how it turned out. Thanxz

Hey Jerry (hope that's how you spell it) I just discovered your channel a few days ago, and boy am I hooked. I can't remember being more entertained and learning so much in a long long time. I just subscribed and have probably watched 50 installments before I did but I can't find a single thing I don't like about your presentations. Your no nonsense approach and added playing and singing have entertained me thoroughly. I have 7 guitars (I'm not a good player but I love the instrument) and they all play a little better because of things I've learned from you. I'm not a young man (64yrs.) but I intend on playing until they lay me down. thanks to you it's going to be a lot more enjoyable. Many thanx

As an antique restorer I can give you a tip about the finish problem you encountered. You are right about trying to spot match old finishes, it is tough. What works for me is to get the whole surface to a common color / tone first and then adjust as needed. The way that works best for me is to mix up a solution of 50% alcohol and 50% paint thinner and dip a pad of extra fine steel wool in the solution and begin using a circular motion to massage the old finish. This lifts the old finish and allows you to manipulate ity. You can use this technique remove as much or as little of the old finish as you want. In the case of the guitar you are working on I would try to leave as much of the original finish and color as I could. You can even out the finish across the lighter spots and once you have that done you can let it dry. After it dries you can decide whether to adjust the overall color / tone or not. BUt, you have to get an overall color / tone rather than trying to spot match. Once satisfied you can apply a clear finish if desired. Use super fine steel wool to smooth after the solvent procedure and to prep for finish.

Jerry, Thanks for the instruction on all your videos. I have learned more from you than any other luthier. Keep them coming!

That is why i like watchin most of your videos bcoz of the way you see things and a down to earth attitude 👍

There are though "Best Practices for Repair," and that's what we should be trying to follow. Many times though, it does come down to, there's really only one method by which something should be repaired, effectively, efficiently and aesthetically. That Sir, is something I've regularly observed in your videos.

I admire your work Mr Rosa . My late father was a cabinet maker . This evolved to repairing and rebuilding Steinway pianos , all the wood . My father has passed . I remembering these things from the eyes of a child : he had a way of fixing sounding boards that split from drying out . This is a method I think may work in your field : He used a grease gun that was never used for grease and modified a ball filling needle to mount to the hose and swore by titebond . He would drill holes on the diagnal . On either side of of the split he would use hot glue to mount several clamping blocks . He then held the needle in each hole and had me pump the grease gun at his direction . It amazed me how far from the split the glue would come out of the woods pores . He then put clamps on his glue block . Then spritz the sound board with a spray bottle . When finished the split wasn't detectable at all . An idea I had while watching you work is the use of air bags inside the guitar cavity to put pressure on the body that is out of shape while gluing or expanding a split enough to use a dental pick to clean out some old glue from a bad fix . A garment steamer is another idea I have to hydrate or soften a bad glue job. I enjoy watching your videos

Great tip about the wedges to get the end pin out. Awesome metalwork advice too. Great job as usual.

Incredible work , sympathetic to the customer and the back an headstock look like they should , not brand new but used and repaired with age now you have worked worked your magic , outstanding .

Love it. You're a good man, Jerry Making the right calls. So looking forward to part two.

I'm so amazed about the approach taken *forging* the chisel vs machining it ! There's always other ways to do things and new things to learn.

Hi Jerry, Ian from Tassie here. It's funny as in when I saw this video I constantly said to myself as you are coming up to a problem, 'why don't you do it this way' lol, then guess what? you do it that way lolololol. Great video as usual Jerry. I just restored a Gibson Kalamazoo for a client. It was her mothers during WW2. She bought it off an American GI who had to pawn it while in Australia.

We've missed you Jerry. This video was very rewarding, though! Can't wait for part 2.

Mr Rosa, you are the best thing on KZfaq. Don't ever stop.

Outstanding job,never sell yourself short,you are the man ,Jerry

....and again i learned a lot from the best......

Thank you for posting this video and especially for saving this old Gibson. You are doing a fantastic repair. I had a1918 Gibson L1 in pretty good condition and sold it to my buddy. I put a L R Baggs IBeam in it for him and it reproduces the sound perfectly. I love old Gibson’s. Thanks again for saving this old warrior, I’m going to search for part 2. Kenny hughes

No excuses needed, you did an awesome job as usual.

Excellent repairs Jerry, you are one of a kind , your repair videos are excellent & Thanks.

I'm liking your style, it seems very close to my own approach to repairing old instruments...no fancy tools, and figuring out a work-around to each problem as they arise.

It does look nice Jerry keep up the good work. I trusted you with my guitar and anything you needed to do was done. It plays great. I think this costumer will be real happy.

Good to see a new video. Thanks.

I greatly appreciate your honesty and all the carefulness you took to repair this awfully damaged old Gibson guitar.

Dammit, I wish I had you for a neighbour!

Excellent work!

Absolutely, a thumbs up. That’s so good looking. Congratulations. Looking forward to part two

Considering the circumstances, I like the lines on the back where you fixed it because it was done with such care and dedication. That turned a dreadfully crude repair into a positive chapter in the instruments history.

Nice job.

I think the back looks pretty darn good compared to what it started out like. Looking forward to part 2!

Yes i like it. Looks more like an old cared for guitar than an old abused one and your work will extend its playing life. Cheers for sharing.

That is fantastic Jerry! Don't be so hard on yourself that it's not perfect! It looks a thousand times better! If the customer isn't happy with that, he can pound salt!!

Lots of great tips in this video... Thanks.

boy oh boy, I get a lot of them where I have to repair the repairs too and can tell you it doubles the work and makes the job twice as hard to fix right. you're doing some fine work, can't wait to hear it!

The back looks fantastic now with the buffing, can't wait to see the end result. Lovely job.

It´s good to have you and your skills back on the screen. The ole Gibson with all the "reversed modifications", will shine again after the next episode.

You are truly a Renaissance man, Jerry! I love the blacksmith work. Great stuff.

you like my brother always the hard way never the easy way

Looking good Jerry! 👍👍

Just rewatched this. Here’s another thumbs up. 👍

Ohhhh how I love the smell of tempering steel in oil, such great memories!!

Great repair looks way better and sealed aswell,im sure the customer will be pleased,Cheers

I've been enjoying your videos for a few days now. Watching you make the new tool was pretty amazing

Really enjoying the demostration of your skills. There are Non-blooming CA Accellerators you won't have to worry about turning the glue white. The white is from boiling the glue while it is in the liquid form. Try Mercury brand accell. It's a slightly slower accell so you don't create enough heat from chem reaction to cause boiling. The CA they sell is made here in the USA and usually 2 to 3 months newer than CA's manufactured in China and shipped here. I am a professional modeler, laser cutter and RC airplane kit producer among other things.

1918 guitar wow show history

Yes yes. I feel ya there. I run into the same thing with automotive and electronic repairs. It never fails to have one every now and then that is totally a compilation of repairs done bad that have to be redone and set right. It is sad 😞

When I started learning rudimentary woodworking an old neighbor would mix the wood glue with fine saw dust to fill old holes and divots as well as the toothpicks. Thanks for letting us watch. Narragansett Bay

Thanks for sharing, Jerry. No telling how many times this axe has changed owners but it's so obvious it wasn't taken care of, at all...

Your repairs usually turn out great and I expect this one to be a real winner too.

I think you made all the right calls here,esp NOT putting the ferrules on the headstock....!....pleasure to watch as always!

Looking Good!

Beautiful work. A difficult fix but well handled. Can’t wait for the next bit.

Great job jerry, pretty scary from the start,

Your skills are amazing. I love watching you work and explain what exactly you’re doing. It’s inspiring. Keep up the good work. My wife thinks it’s weird that I can sit and watch this without getting bored. Cheers!

Nice job Jerry! I like what you did to that Gibson. Looking forward to part 2! 😁👍

Nice going Jerry,it is what it is,only better now !

hey Jerry! for the bigger holes on the headstock, bamboo skewers work well!!! you can even shave them to fit!

"Dads know a lot- Grandpas know everything." Very good, let's have a big hand for the greybeards who keep this world turning!

Sometimes I have found that if you are dealing with a natural finish restore and cracks, the glue they used filled the pours of the wood so you would never be able to get those to stain up the same but I have found that Tea bags are a great patina base for such repairs. I used to restore antiques. Somewhat the same thing.

good job

Popsicle sticks. Very clever.

I have some old Guitars two old builds bye C F Martins one is 56003 arched front and back Maple all org Electric F hole Vega price tag still on it put away since it was bought both with org case. the other is From New York Bruno Company a Tenner Guitar if I remember right its a 1840s model but the low E key is striped right as it gets tuned. I took it in to a few shops in Seattle for repair no one knew how it was built and were afraid to try . Im a Engineer I never seen another build like it . It has to come out through the front nothing on the back and just two shaft holes one on the front one on the side every thing else is sweet... All so a T Haruo Flate Top Box the best sound of them all while in the Guitar Stand on a Concrete floor no Vibration it came flying out like some one kicked it. I saw it 10 feet away ??? my Son saw it. The front of the Head hit the floor hard and split the Neck American Music said it cant be fixed as did others so Im disabled shot on money I opened the crack cleaned it out and used Elmer's wood glue clamped it and waited two weeks and put light strings on it 15 years ago and its been playing ever since you could play this Guitar at the Garden my friend Dave and I traveled from Eugene Oregon Salem Portland then Alaska playing Guitars $100,000 worth in all in just one of the shops until we found this one. Some thing real special about this one it plays like a dream. A true blessing this Guitar saved my life a long story but its doing its job. enjoy love your work A+

I Love this Repairman ~ I would Trust him with My Guitars Anytime ~~ Keep Rockin' ~~ !!

great video...on to part 2!

I know you don't like refinish old instruments but the L3 deserves a refinish to preserve the wood. Half of these died from lack of humidity or too much but I have found most old arch tops are dying for humidity. You do great work and love your video's.

Great stuff good sir!

I found your videos very interesting, thank you! And I really enjoyed this one, that back couldn't be better, nice work!

You actually did a good job on describing the hardening of the steel. The hardness is determined by the carbon content and the quenching method. A good steel is 4150, which has a 50% carbon. The quenching can be water, oil or air. A water quench gives you a Martensite microstructure, which is very hard and brittle. A oil quench gives you a ferrite microstructure, which isn't as hard and brittle. The last is air cooling which gives a soft pearlite microstructure (annealing). .

The back looks great

Really amazing work. Total commitment. A life's passion 👍. Thanks for sharing Jerry 🎶🎶🎶

Good work as usual! a little tip for you, sand with olive oil or food grade oil to lubricate your paper over shellac!

What a enjoyable video. Really nice to see the tool you made !! That back looked extremely thin, great touch

I'm just in awe of what you have done so far. Now on to part 2!

It's looking pretty! Good job!

Got damn near a double of that was my grandfathers I was estimating 1919-22 on mine..just a piece of my family's history...Great look

My 2cents would be to use a garnet colored shellac to tint the back a little darker over all and if applied like a french polish it may even out the color. I do believe you are an expert and a true Pro no matter what you say.

So good to see you back, Jerry...Was starting to worry!! Great video, as always, you are doing the right thing (IMHO)!

You did fine! It looks good for what it is.

Yess! My dad taught me that one of the hardest things in life is relickin someone else’s calf! Fixin someone else’s poor, mediocre repairs can entail many hours of work, because you have to undo their poor, ignorant efforts to repair, fix something!

Jerry, I don't know my butt from a hole in the ground about instrument building and repair. Other than drums, I can make drums. So that's why I am watching your videos. That said, I do know a lot about restoring and blending old finishes. I owned a cabinet shop and restored antique furniture for roughly 20 years in the 1980's and 1990's. And that taught me about blending new into old with finishes. And there is one "product" that we used to use constantly that I haven't seen you try. And that is artists oil paints. Specifically raw and burnt sienna and raw and burnt umber. Using these four colors we could blend in 90% of the repairs. And 80% of the time we grabbed burnt umber. This stuff is very dark and pretty much opaque. The trick is that our eyes see light things rather than dark things. So making a repair darker than the surrounding wood makes the repair disappear. The problem with artist oils is drying time. A repair had to be recolored then allowed to dry before we retouched the finish. Once dry it only sands off. Wet it is easy to clean off with a variety of solvents, including turpentine. And as such you can pull or blend the oil paint with a turp rag.

I gotta tell you Jerry if that was my guitar and I had you addressing the issues I would be fine with what you have done. It still looks like the antique is was when it arrived and the back, well it look good in my opinion. I do not believe you have taken away of the ware at all. Heck it is extremely old! Beautiful job Jerry!

Thanks or sharing!

Man oh man, Master Class I am so impressed

I was about to send a posse up to check on you! Great Job! Miss y’all.

You can only do with what you have to work with, without a restoration I can't see how it could of been better. Of course you can't be micromanaged by the customers they have to take faith in you will do the best you can and be happy with the results. Thumbs up onto part 2.

Another valiant repair! The word I think you are looking for in the fabric department is “bias tape.” It is cut at 45° to the cloth grain and is more elastic. I noticed a lot of ads on this one. I’m not complaining, as it’s good for you. It’s just something I noticed.

thats a kick ass vice you have! Wilton makes some good stuff

Hi Jerry, its so very good to see you!

Very nice. I don't play any instruments or work on them. I have musician friends though and watching your videos helps understand what they go through in keeping structual integrity but also keeping ware which to them, there is a story behind each mar and blemish. History imprinted on the instrument. Very nice video. Your videos are interesting.

tough job, but it looks a whole lot better than before you started.. well done.. tks for sharing.. now on to part 2

This guy need you to put it back the way it was back in the day it came out of the factory in Michigan Kalamazoo

You've been missed. Thought those cement blocks messed you up, there were so many. We've been haunting KZfaq waiting for you to re-appear, and concerned a bit too. Really glad to see you again.

What a job! Good work Mr. Jerry. I would have been cryin too. Haha

Great job! I really enjoy your videos. I don't plan to repair /restore musical instruments but I enjoy watching you do it. Thanks!