If there's 1 thing I really like about HubNut is the positivity when faced with difficult jobs........HUBNUT FOREVER!!!!!!!

Don't ever claim to not be ambitious. Putting rust proof on the Sana, reach for the stars 👍❤️😂

I flirted with plastic coating on motorcycles in the early eighties. My observations of plastic coating is that once the tiniest flaw occurs in it, the corrosion really rips along beneath it and it actually retains water in the blisters resulting in some really bad frame rot. . It sounds like the U Pol may well be doing the same sort of thing.

You are such an inspiration ian, you do the jobs I can't be bothered to, and as a result your cars are still running and mine have been packed off to the scrappers. Bravo on another wonderful video and I do hope you find a more peaceful unit nearer home.

For sufficient tea to get me through a day, I would need a flask the size of a fire extinguisher.

I know the everlasting fight against the rustdevil. Especially my Citroen GSA was a few kg's heavier due to the used Waxoil and the heavy tectyl I applied every 2 years with a brush. I had to say it was effective because I still have my GSA till this day. Actually loves it to do this work and knows I beat the rustdevil 😊

Rust proofing HubNut's 2CV is very much like painting the Forth Bridge. Keep at it and you shall be rewarded by yet more rust.

One of the advantages to old Australian cars is the lack of rust. When I arrived I bought a10 year old Valiant with a loose tailpipe so I bought a muffler clamp and went to replace the old one. Much to my amazement the old one didn't shear off, it just tightened up! Thirty years later I still have the clamp unused. Unfortunately Aussies would describe the rust in your 2CV as "terminal cancer'". A friend had a Mk1 transit van which had "terminal cancer". I pointed out it still had metal below the taillights so he could probably sell the panels as good spares in the UK.

"Wax is now everywhere. And a good amount of it is under here." LOL. That looks like a really unpleasant task. When I first entered the wonderful world of motoring back in the late 70s it was common practice to take a magnet when viewing a used car in order to check for filler - commonly referred to as "bog" in Australia. It's not something I would even be thinking about when looking for a vehicle these days, so rust-proofing must have improved somewhat. However, even with modern rust prevention methods, I get the impression that UK dampness and salted winter roads still do their best to dissolve one's pride and joy.

South Main Auto did a video on how Rubberised Undercoatings Will Destroy Your Car - with examples...

If you wanted to witness corrosion Ian, my old Skoda Felicia pick-up would be a particularly prime example! Made all the worse by a factory fitted body kit, it being a limited edition. Despite any & all of my efforts, corrosion was the death of it & was the primary reason for finally parting company with her! The sad truth is that all such measures delay rather than cure & there's no real substitute to cut out, renew & weld accordingly! I however commend your efforts sir & look forward to more hubnut tinkering & the like soon! 👍

I would have used red oxide paint then the raptor over the top, but before all that I’d have vactaned the worst areas. Rust is a real pain but it’s some thing us older vehicle owners have to deal with. You must learn welding it’s so important with owning older vehicles. Good video🙂👍

Stainless steel and mild steel can be used together, it's aluminium where the problems are. I'd just order some SS equivalent nuts and bolts from eBay and you'll be fine. 😊

Gas camping stove + old school hob kettle + enough tea to fill the back of Foxanne + enormous mugs + bottled water supply = tinkering bliss. Might need an upgrade to the tea supply before you tackle that Yugo’s wiring! Great video as always Ian.

Ah, this brings back memories of virtually all my spare time, spent de-rusting, sanding, grinding and 'patching' various cars, in the 1970s. One particular hideous rot-box was my 1975 Cortina Mk3. The upper front wings had huge holes caused by the tin worm, but rust was on pretty much every seam! (days before wheel-arch liners). By the way, the car was only 5 years old, at this point! Oh, deep joy!

I've used Bilt Hamber clear to try and slow wheel arch rust. Not sure if it has actually slowed down the rust, but it was robust and lasted a good while, must have done something. Would have loved to see some vactan on those suspension end plates ;-)!

Good old fashioned waxoyl can’t beat it.

I can really recommend applying vaseline to door seals to help them staying flexible and to stop water floating in your car. Another great product is Lanoline. It's very water and salt resistant and I regularely apply it to seams on the floor with my finger or I put it on bolts and nuts at the outside of my 2CV. You are gonna love it, it's fantastic.

Always thought that Waxoyl was the better idea for chassis, as you can see, once the raptor coating is breached it acts as a seal to keep water in. You may have to re-apply waxy coatings every few years but due to their nature if they are breached they flow back to seal the breach, something that raptor cannot do. Admittedly I think it is more for panels rather than sealing chassis and seams but not a good result all the same.

I applied Raptor to the outside on my 90 but wouldn't use it on steel. It was originally sold as a bed liner anti slip finish but is quite porous in places unless you clearcoat it and I wish I had. All "coatings" tent to trap moisture and rust underneath, Epoxy 2 pack I have tried on a rusty car recently after removing the rust with acid with an Epoxy base so will keep an eye on that. Lots of Dinitrol helps too.

It's a good job you've caught it in time. Vactan is good stuff as well.

Yeah, we all love a bit of rust prevetntion. NOT! My old ride on mower produced some interesting moments when parts of the deck detached themselves due to rust. A sudden blast of grass cuttings and rusty metal up your leg can be a bit of a shock when you don't expect it. I spent a few hours with a death wheel, some sheet metal, and a pop rivet gun to correct that issue. The mower looked like something out of a Mad Max movie after that.

It's projects like this that make us "shade tree mechanics" envious of the professionals who have hoists, proper lighting and parts delivered to the shop by the auto parts store.

Loved this , of course in hindsight waxoyling after rebuilding then yearly would be the thing to do but it's such a dirty paining the backside to do. Get a cheap camping stove for tea

Hi Ian, Kurust has always been my choice of anti rust treatment over the years and then some waxoyl to finnish and protect, kept my old golf on the road for another 10 years.

You've got two wheeled toolboxes in the corner,surely it's easier to have them accessible and use them for I dunno putting tools in so you know where they are next time you need them?

tea in a flask? NO........ A camping stove avoids that manky overbrewed taste.. Putting rust converter onto the Sana seems to be a wee bit futile IMO

It's a tedious job but it has to be done. Tenacious as ever! I'm sure Elly will thank you and the Yugo might even try a little wry smile. Cheers

The classic Hub Nut 🥜 garage trademark with nothing in it’s place LOL 😂👍 Tam.

Another issue about having tea making facilities at the unit. Your ingress of tea might mean your emptying of tea becomes the next issue!!! Another great video. Hope it keeps Ellie rust free for a while yet. :)

I feel your pain about trying to hold back the rust. Many years ago I had an Alfasud Sprint coupe, I loved that little car, but every time I looked at it , there was less of it..... even the middle of the roof was dissolving.. It felt like one morning I would walk out to the car and find just the tyres and windows... I hope you're able to keep the dreaded tinworm away from your 2CV.

There's a very good South main auto video showing the absolute havoc wreaked on a pickup that was 'protected' with a rubberised undercoat. Its a shocking mess. A few coats of cheap body shop clear coat and old engine oil in box sections has served me well in the past.

Perfect lunch break video. Thanks

We are in Ottawa Canada where lots and lots of salt is used on the roads in winter. Fighting rust is an every day battle. Behind the foot board where you were working is a triangular box section that spans the car. That is a serious rust trap on the 2cv. You need to carefully drill small holes into the toe board and spray oil or waxoil into the cavity to get at the inside of the seams of that thing.

I use boiled or raw linseed oil, just reapply once a year with a crude spay gun. It dries verry slowly, expecially the raw linseed, and creeps in all the small cracks. It's cheap and works very well,keeps my Citroen BX rust free. The raw linseed is enviromentaly friendly, the leftovers can be fed to the horses :-p

Great video Ian, everything tackled in true HubNut style. Look forward to seeing you in the next one.

As a slight aside, Bilt Hamber also make Atom Mac, which doesn’t kill rust, but prevents it from starting on things like brake discs, fasteners underneath etc. I’m very impressed, and it’s very economical!

HubNut goes all Bob Ross as he dabbles a fine sunset scene with a palette of rust treatment. Nice action and broad, brave strokes - don’t fear letting the brush take a walk.

Rust converter is one of those dangerous products, that people misuse. Painting it onto rust is a waste of time, it won't work, the rust will come back. You really need to get in there with a wire brush or better yet, a wire attachment on a drill. Keep it at it till you get shinny metal and then paint the converter on to catch any tiny bits you have missed. Though in my experience the only sure fire way to stop rot is to cut it out, get back to good metal and weld in new metal. Trying to treat tends to be futile.

Nice, a tin snail. Quite rare now considering how many were made, but a true peoples car and quite rightly a classic. Yours looks like the Charleston with the two tone paintwork? A neighbour in Aberdeenshire in the early 90's had a bright green one called a 2CV bamboo, must have been a last of the line special edition or something. Very distinctive and original little cars. Some people temporarily put zinc weld through primer over bare metal areas that have paint flaking off or after putting on rust converter as the zinc will help protect the steel through galvanic protection, just like welding zinc nodes to the hull of a steel ship for sacrificial protection. Hopefuly the zinc will help make the steel panel less positively charged, to prevent some of the corrosion getting too extensive or going further. I have heard of people trying to reverse the oxidation process on very rare hard to find panels by dipping them in a bath of water and carbonate soda with a negative terminal from a battery charger on the panel and a steel metal plate chucked in the bath with the positive terminal connected to it. Physicaly removing all rust and not reversing the electrolysis on the panel still kind of makes painting it again an expensive and futile operation, as it will bubble straight through again in a month if still badly positively charged. The chemical rust converter works the same way but not as effective. Maybe you should try the electrolysis bath experiment yourself hubnut on an old rusty panel and make a video out of it, interesting to see how it works out. Better than mechanically removing rust, although you will meed a big bath and lots of soda to dip a whole 2CV 😅.

Can't believe the rebuild videos were 3 years ago. That went quick.

More realness from ian..lovely..i think a collection for a HubNut garage is overdue..a haven for tinkering and kettled tea... Thanks- once again.

Good to get a heads up about the raptor. Was thinking of using it on one of my projects. Admittedly my climate is no where near as harsh, but I may stick to more conventional underbody coatings. The old stuff did rather well for 52 years!

I'm going to try Mustie1's chainsaw oil idea on the exposed suspension and axles etc. Only suitable for underneath of course! Like most, I have used Waxoyl in sills/ box sections/inside doors etc and it's always been great. A few years ago I discovered Tectyl spray, it's like Waxoyl but much thinner. I put it all around a hole in a wheel arch, exposed to worst elements, and it held rust fast for six years, great sealing product. I also got myself some POR15, supposedly the Hammerite that really works, very expensive but not used it yet so we'll see..

Enjoying your 2CV antics. I drove one for a few years in the 90s - great fun. The only car I've driven where you could drive faster than the speedo went! Have you thought about getting an inverter or small generator to give you a 240v supply for things like a vacuum and a lamp or two? Maybe even a low wattage kettle!

U-Pol Raptor, the wood-chip wallpaper of the car world?

Passive barriers, like the U-Pol Raptor, are only effective if they are not compromised, once compromised they are quite destructive. This is one of the reasons that undersealing of cars can cause them to rust like hell. The cause is Differential Aeration Corrosion, sometimes called Aero-Deltic Corrosion, by the severely nerdy. Perhaps the application of sacrificial anodes might help to stop the rot.

If the raptor treatment is only flaking off where the seams are its because the rust is still there when you painted that area.The seams will have rust in that developed under the seam sealer or between spot welds because there was either no or barely any paint or protection when the car was built. So the tiny pits still contain rust and the rust treatment only kills a very thin layer in the pit. The corrosion continues underneath the rust killer and raptor until eventually there is just a thin layor of rust rather than metal and nothing for the raptor to stick too any more. The only ways I found to clean the rust out of the pits was white vinegar or diluted brick cleaner. Its a long process and it won't clean up in between the seams once there is rust in there. I think the only thing that might work is having the shell dipped.

These rubbery rust proofing materials are often better at hiding the rust then preventing it, so keep an eye on it. I had a Toyota Starlet that looked quite nice but it was also treated with some similar rubbery stuff in the past, and the entire bottom of the car has annihilated itself under the coating!

A great update. You say you have no electricity but you have lighting fitted to the roof is it not connected would be great if you could get it working plus you could run a socket off it and use low power tools.

Tea. But no running water. Can we assume there is a bucket somewhere for bathroom emergencies?

Always been a fan of David's Zinc 182 Grey Primer-Anti Rust Coat

Adding rubberized coatings to an old car will only ever increase rust once moisture gets behind it, just stick to something like fluidfilm, I have even used atf as it wicks well but you have to keep replying it

Hello mr hubnut, love watching your channel, so much so that it actually encouraged me to buy my own 2cv two years ago,best thing I did, so much fun, so slow so what. anyway my suggestion to slow down rust, after winter spray or brush bicarbonate of soda and water mixed underneath, the bicarbonate kills salt. happy 2cving.

I have never had much luck stopping rust. I refurbished my truck wheels once and rubbed everything down, put a coating of Kurust, then 2 coats of red oxide primer and 2 coats of Hammerite silver which in itself says it stops rust. 3 weeks later rust was showing back through 🤦🏼‍♂️

I think if I were UPOL I would be doing what I could to rectify matters, 3 years for a professional application is not an acceptable service life, too many products out there on the market place that do not do what they are supposed to do, well, having seen how this has performed I would not be wasting my money on a useless product, thanks for bringing this to our attention!

Brilliant video Ian enjoyable tinkering yay

You won't go far wrong with that Bilt Hamber stuff, it is one of the few products that actually lives up to expectations and beyond.

Living in Spain I feel incredibly lucky that we don't really have to deal with things rusting out so quickly.

It's already too hot for me outdoors, so this is the perfect excuse to sit down with some orange squash and relax. Nothing like a tinkering video for that :)

Glad to see you using some rust converter, applying bitumen based body deadener over that adds a considerable amount of protection.

Rust proof on the Yugo, like peeing on a bush fire.

Lunchtime tinkering session lovely

oh its nice after a hard days work moving heavy items from bedroom into caravan very useful storage device, on a hot day too its nice to see a hubnut video in which he's putting rust anti on it, i still say rust stuff on them tons of window sealer, works almost all the time

Wow action with a ratchet spanner.... hope it help you in other cases. ..... take care Ian

Vactan is a great product. Even when the treated surface is left unpainted, it continues to work. Have used it on my T30 Xtrail to prevent the notorious rear suspension turret rust. Surprised the Raptor coat failed. I guess it isn't as tough as the adverts claim.

Enjoy the tinkering stuff Ian! Especially Elly! She did look a bit rough for a restored 2CV at the Shropshire meet. Wondered how it ever made it. Surprisingly deceiving vehicles. ;)

A friend used to use old engine oil on his car's chassis every year...

I once bought an old XJ which had been 'Waxoyled' from new and it was as new underneath, of course it may have been looked after and reapplied. In my mechanicking days I did use it once or twice but it didn't seem to work on old metal.

If you plan to keep Ellie, why not remove those rusty plates, get them vapour blasted and powder coated? Alternatively buy new ones? Or just paint them after blasting? This way you are actually improving things - jobs done and move on to the next. Only trying to help, you seem to like chasing your tail

Never put anything on a car that can trap moisture close to the metal. It's just a recipe for turbo-rusting. It's always going to crack in one place, let water in, and rust going to just eat the metal till there's nothing left.

Dynax is the best underbody wax you can use. Just a tip, dip the cans in very warm water, not hot, for a while and they'll atomise much better inside the cavities. Same for spray paint cans.

9.34 - I swear I saw Foxanne's headlamp swivel as she looked at you

Very thorough job Sir , I must try the Vactan? my old Astra van needs some chassis tlc on some surface rust..not had much luck with kurust etc in the tiny pots.. When you mentioned the Bush then the Nut ( no I'm not going there!) my brain immediately went Nutbush city limits!! ah forty years of being a part time musician . Maybe one day I'll get on popmaster and fail miserably ..peace and love brother and thanks again for the wonderful videos 👍🏻☮❤

I was wondering why you didn't clean and paint those shock absorber plates. Might be a bit of a false economy there.

Love the Ellie videos, and Tuk as well.. Rust proofing the Sana was.. interesting but hey, I would have done that too if I had some in my hand!!!. She's gonna need some work Ian! (I would need more Tea or take my stove if that was my unit!!)

I used Waxoyl on a Dolomites sprint in the 1970’s a wax rustproof coating and it worked great don’t know if it still exists.

i use ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion, yes its expensive but brilliant during winter months

Very nice video THX Ian!

You can also wrap sanding paper around the block to make it last much longer and forever have a sanding grippa pad!

Yes i remember using old oil on my cortina mk3 to rust proof and posher mates used to use if i remember it well Wax oil it might be the same as that tinned stuff Ian was using .

The Joy's of older cars in the UK and if you live near the coast aluminium brackets rot like mad even on new vehicles.

My mum's Hyundai Matrix with just 34,600 miles is starting to blister. Just not long redone the rear wheel arches. I have been cutting out rot and remaking arch lips and the inner sections. I am thinking why? Mum loves that car and I am not going to lie I love it also. I did the timing belt water pump after 15 years during lockdown and a full service. The oil is crystal clear 😀 it's the most pampered Matrix in UK and a bit more peppier since T belt change . The front subframe rotted out. We managed to get a new factory subframe one of three left in UK at the time. That had rotted around the lower arm mountings scary. Yet the rest is nice. Is it a Hubnut kind of car? Great to see you tinkering again the best videos.

If I said 'bar and chain oil' would you know what/who I was referring to? 🤔

Was there primer and seam sealer applied before the raptor liner?

Cleaning threads - having done all you can with the wire brush, refit the nut and run it up and down the threads using oil on the good threads and releasing fluid (e.g. PlusGas) on the caked up threads - using the nut forcibly onto the caked threads. Back and forth should hopefully clear out the rust !

Copper grease would be an abrasive here.

For £89, money well spent. Could you have taken it to the people who rustproofed your Skoda, or would the cost have been prohibitive?

I think they call that kind of thing a "Rust in Peace" coating because of the way it covers it all up but doesn't seem to stop it rusting. To be fair hardly anything seems to stop rusting. Good luck with the wax.

I always thought those coatings were a terrible idea as they inevitably fail somewhere due to perishing or stone chipping and then they become counterproductive as they trap the salt and moisture and rust then runs rampant and kills the car.

I don't do social media (cos I'm antisocial!) but I have sent you something, influenced by this video, to your PO Box, which should arrive next week. As the company was offering free postage it seemed a tad silly to have them post it to me only for me to have to pay postage to send it on. I feel it is something you will both need and use! Cheers

knew a guy with an early mini, he used to use old engine and diesel in a sprayer which had a long pipe with holes along its length, he would drill holes into areas where you cant get at and thoroughly spray, very little rust on that mini, the holes were filled with sealant. farewell

I'm not a fan of anything that covers the metal as rustproofing,much better to keep metal exposed so it can't trap water and it can dry out easily. I use an oil/diesel mix and apply liberally,it's cheap and does the job without hiding potential problems.

No electricity, no water, 50 miles away. I’m guessing it’s a cheap unit?

Always wash before you wax

The majority of rust converters are just phosphoric acid (the same as is in soft drinks, and actually is good for the bones in moderation!!) in a gel carrier, converting the iron oxide into a layer of ferric phosphide, which supposedly is inert, but always a good idea to paint over it as soon as, as the metal underneath can continue to rust after treatment... :)

Could you use an inverter for occasional use of power tools. Keep batteries charged wth a solar cell. What about a cheap generator?

Here in Ohio US rust is always an issue. Salt brine liquid is used on snowy roads and we have relstively harsh winters. Imagine how the owner of a $60k truck feels when he sees rust blisters after 2 years. One solution is to dpray the entire underside with used engine oil and squirt oil on pinch welds and crevices after a wash. I have rebuilt nice old cars and it is a constant chore to keep them rust free so I feel your pain.

Ian, is it possible to get some woven matting, similar to doormat material? It would both breathe and protect the floor at the same time I think. So much moisture is trapped condensation, particularly under rubber carpets. Normal car carpeting is little better, what with plasticy backing and a spongy consistency. I've successfully used builders expanding foam to fill chassis cavities which allows one to cover the vents with a bit of gaffer-tape you cover in underbody Schutz. It's so depressing seeing a recently restored, precious classic car, start to redissolve. One imagines that one's extra efforts, care and attention would render this redundant, but no. One thing that always makes me smile, is the concept of 'surface rust', when bubbles appear under the paint. How do these souls imagine anything got through the undamaged paint surface?

This is very depressing. Body off restoration, U-Pol raptor applied before paint, rusty again in 3 years. :( Do you ever wish you weren't interested in old cars? I do. I don't mean it, but I do think it sometimes!