Thank you, Ryan. I was able to (barely) get my torque wrench in there because of the cross member, but was able to squeeze out 18 ft-lbs. Loving the intercooler and bypass thus far. Going to be doing a video here on the rear-diff install from PPE here soon. We are about to move max gross from Alaska to Arizona (15,000 lbs). Excited to get that video out around July. We will see if these PPE components hold true.

If you need help or advice on the Intercooler, please don't hesitate to let me know. It was a breeze to install. I recommend placing many shop rags under the lines to catch your retaining clips/transmission fluid. You will drop them. I wish you all the best on it!

@@CHASING_BUILDS PPE intercooler in and have heavy towed 7000 lbs +. Kicks ass…

@@ryanlogan2911 Thats awesome man, hopefully, it was a painless install!!! Put mine to the test this weekend with our new 24', and I am excited to add their diff cover next month.

It's worse than I thought....video is in the works now:)

The short answer is no. As explained to me by the dealer, they'd have to prove that the part installed was the direct result of the issue caused. You do not gain any "power" with this bypass. It only allows the fluid to flow more freely, and with the service screw, it will capture any particulates flowing through the lines. You must unbolt the front drive shaft to access the Transmission Service plug. After installing the larger cooler and bypass, I will hold off on the larger transmission pan. Temperatures were perfect towing our 24' enclosed trailer last weekend. I have more few parts in now but can't install them until the end of February.

This did not work on my 23, the return line is different

Ryan, that sucks to hear man! I am not sure if the valve and spring are necessary for function. My personal assumption would be to keep the OEM setup and see if PPE is working on something to adapt to the new 23' LZ0.

TIghtens down to 18 ft/lbs, a very tight spot with the cross member.

beans

Mike, if they can prove that the part was a direct cause of the issue, they would have the right to refuse service but it would be very hard to directly correlate it. That's at least from my understanding.

Switching the part takes just a few moments. I've stored and kept all OEM parts Ive removed. Just in case. Very happy thus far. It's more of a preventive maintenance rather than a performance enhancer.

@CHASING_BUILDS if thats what PPE Told u then u go by what they say. Another guy using they're parts that made huge claims is showing they really don't perform any better then stock. And without the Banks I dash to data log, u won't see it. There is a reason PPE Is giving these parts out to guys with KZfaq channels! It's to sell garbage. Some stuff might work, the majority seems to be no better then stock from what I've seen.

@CHASING_BUILDS They can prove anything nowadays!

@@kwmiked Those are very valid points. Do you own the 3.0L? Do you have any modifications you'd recommend? I've seen an improvement in my transmission temp with their cooler. Something I don't need an Idash to reflect especially with how much I tow with the truck The bypass, not so much, but that's more of a maintenance / preventive thing. With the bypass, you get an in-line service plug and from a person who has purchased and looked at the PPE product vs OEM; PPE has certainly done their homework. For less than $100, it was worth it in my no-consumer opinion.

This allows the transmission fluid to come up to temp faster. Also allows the fluid to stay at the ideal temp in cold ambient temperatures when there's not much load on the transmission and no need to run the fluid through the cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

@@StephenPaul1160 Thank you! Having driven a Blazer and Yukon for decades in hotter climates (and always have additional transmission cooling installed), have rarely considered the issues in flat out cold climates.

We leave for Arizona in a couple months; if i was staying, I wouldn't need it, honestly. I have both the bypass and the valve, as shown. No matter what I do, unless I am driving for several hours, the Transmission temp does not get above 120. Just the nature of living in the cold, I guess. Looking forward to warmer weather.

I WAS THINKING THAT THE WHOLE TIME HAHA

How would u hook them together and gain the 2-3in its short once block is out

The valve does two things it either loops the fluid for warm up or it opens the loop and keeps the fluid from looping. If you simple removed the valve the fluid would dead head and even less fluid would go through the cooler.

If you just remove the valve from the factory OEM block, you will damage your transmission for sure on a warm day because more than 50% of the hot transmission oil will return to the transmission un cooled

American trucks. Late response tho haha

No! You are spot on....I had this same epiphany the moment I pulled the valve and spring out around 6:58 in the video. I think I am the only consumer who has actually filmed it. You could potentially remove the spring and valve and then essentially its doing the exact same thing minus the service plug (In my non-engineer opinion). I've got about 100 trouble free miles on the bypass as of today. All is going well thus far, more info on it in the next video:)

I thought the same thing after the spring removal. Maybe I missed it but is there something to be placed where the service plug goes in the other unit?

@@CHASING_BUILDS Not the case at all, check the GM factory block after you remove valve and you’ll see that more than 50% of the hot transmission oil will cycle back to the transmission un-cooled, causing your transmission to overheat. The only way to cool 100 % of the transmission oil is to use the PPE block .

@@MarkSmith-cz3by Uncertain how I could measure 50%; but I definitely understand what you are saying. I am glad I got it; I've been very pleased with the temps thus far towing. Excited to see what it does in a hotter climate.

I thought I saw that in the video too. A path back inside the stock block when the valve is removed, straight down. You need the aftermarket block.

That I don't know, but I haven't had any issues since the install related to that part.

My thoughts exactly.

You and i have the same thought....lol

That is a great question! I recieved two M8 bolts with mine. Unfortuantlely the OEM block has a different mounting set up so you cant re-use that hardware. I would reach out to American trucks for the hardware. The photo on their website has a photo of the bolts, I beleive it might have been shipping mistake on their end.