Hi 👋 thanks for taking time to comment! See you again in our other Graham videos!

Because this is how the world works unfortunately lol

Cheers namn

Cheers kaxitaksi! Lovely to hear your thoughts and feedback! Hope to see you again soon!

Cheers Andrew - I appreciate the lovely feedback! We have a handful more Graham videos coming so hope to see you on them too mate! - Vinz

Thanks Andrew - much appreciated comment.

aint just knife makers, pdr guys dont unerstand stress either whn pulling dents, but there is a proper way...it involves understang stress, same with welding, you dont understand stess in metal? your work will be awfully warped.

Wow - such a lovely feedback! Thank you very much! - Vinz

Thanks for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed the content! Hope to see you in our other videos too!

Hi Robert that is a fantastic reply and thanks for the compliment too! Funny enough, the next set of videos coming are about quenching oils, how speed affects your quality and many other important things to know for a knife maker! Hope to see you in our other videos! Cheers!

Ah! Robert - you speak music to my ears - a man that understands distortion. I don't think you can fully understand how it hides in crooks and crannies waiting to jump out and bite yer arse when you least expect it 🤣🤣🤣🤣

I worked in the heat treat department in several factories, small and large. I agree with Robert on the formation of gas around oil quenched parts, or worse, steam pockets on water or brine quenched parts. This can also result in soft spots. Rather than agitate the part, agitate the quench media. As for retained austenite, not letting it cool down enough before tempering or too severe a quench, particularly with air hardening steels, are also causes. If there is enough retained austenite, the parts may "Rockwell soft" after hardening and mislead one into thinking it was a poor quench. They can then increase in hardness after tempering. (This "secondary hardening" is normal for D2 and most HSS). One indication of too much retained austenite is the part shrinks after the hardening operation instead of showing the approximate 4% volume growth associated with the transformation to the martensite structure during hardening. One way to get rid of the retained austenite is to give it a cryogenic treatment, but be sure to give it a second tempering to eliminate having brittle,untempered martensite in the part. As for carburized parts, one of their advantages is the residual compressive stress in the case (which increases the fatigue life in parts such as bearings). This is the result of the difference in the transformation temperatures between the low carbon core and the high carbon case. On non-uniform cross-sections, the ratio of case-to-core has an effect on the change of shape of the part during heat treatment. As for distortion, one job used thin, 9" long pieces of CRS (distorts just by machining it) that were carbonitrided in a cyanide pot and quenched in water. To solve the problem of distortion, they were first heated to 1540F for an hour while laying flat and allowed to air cool. This solved the problem. As for knives, whether its W1, O1, A2, A6 etc., you may want to try annealling (furnace cooling them) them in a straightening fixture after all the primary ops are completed, and then heat treating them. To prevent any de-carb, use an atmosphere controlled or vacuum furnace, or wrap them in stainless foil.

The warning label is very concise in my opinion.

Thanks for dropping by to comment!

Hi Stephen thanks for the feedback! Happy to hear you are enjoying the channel!

Cheers Davy! Graham will probably never admit it but he’s an extremely helpful chap. Thanks bud!

Thanks Khaki! Your appreciation is warmly welcomed and glad to see you enjoyed the vid! Hope to see you in our other videos!

Thanks for dropping by to comment Charles! Glad you enjoyed the vid!

Graham is a fantastic source of information for knife makers and we are all lucky to have him in our community. Thanks for watching!

Hi Wes! Lovely to have you onboard mate! Thanks for watching and hope to see you in our other vids!

Thanks for the feedback- really appreciate you taking time to comment! And super thanks for sharing with your subscribers too! Hope to speak with you again in the near future!

Cheers Peter and nice to see you again! We have a video too on different knife edges (and how to keep them sharp) and also another one that might interest you is one of the UK makers, Sharman Knives, who is a part time knife maker, showing off a digital-camo pattern-welded (Damascus) knife! See you again buddy!

I know! Stops everyone (including myself) from using equipment hahaha!

@@UKBladeshow HAHAHA, sounds like it does it's job then. It reminds me of the factory I work at where the wave solder machine literally has a picture of a hand getting it's fingers torn off by the chain.

Cheers Dave!

Cheers Rob and thanks for watching! I hope the video is also informative and entertaining at the same time? What do you think can we improve on?

Hello Rob! Could not agree with you more - Graham is full of useful information and I need to dig out more of what he has - hopefully he’ll be kind enough to share some more hahahaha

Cheers 2 Walter!

Hahaha yeah - that is also knowledge haha! Cheers mot D!

Hi Matty! I hope you enjoyed the video!

Hi Harwood Blades! Happy to see another UK maker watching the channel! If you want to get added to our map, please feel free to check it out here: ukbladeshow.com/makers-near-me

Hey dude nice to see you back! Kitchen knives seem to be more problematic than thicker ones for warping / distortion but you are right, practice makes perfect! Thanks again for watching and I hope you are enjoying the content we put out! - Vinz

@@UKBladeshow The thinner the material the more difficult to keep flat - try keeping kitchen foil flat 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Hi Scott thanks for the comment and appreciation!

Thanks 😊

Cheers for the comment John and I hope you enjoyed the video!

@@UKBladeshow really enjoying these thanks. Just come across them and subscribed straight away.

Hi Roland and thanks for your fantastic and comprehensive input! I think point 1 is best thing to follow if you want it done. It’s the same reason I would send my car to a mechanic to give me peace of mind it’s done properly. Thanks again for taking time to comment!

Gold

Hi Jeffrey thanks for watching another UK Bladeshow video! I’ll be speaking with Graham again soon so I’ll ask your question! Thanks!

You'll really struggle to get max hardness with a plate quench on a many carbon steels and plain carbon such as 1080 in particular. Their required quench rate down to below about 350-400 Celsius is just too fast for plate quenching - I use a fast or accelerated industrial quench oil for these materials. Choose steels with some Chrome content such as 80CrV2, 52100 or A2 ( in ascending Cr Content) for much better plate quenching results.

@@clarkeknives4159 Thank you!

Hello mate nice to see you again and yes, heat treatment can be tricky for people and expect the world from it from experts but hopefully these videos might help increase the knowledge that people have so they can set their expectations correctly 🥳

There’s been a video recently on forge welding. You’re more likely to get a answer putting your question on that one. I’ll try answering as best I can - I’m a ferrous metallurgist but not a blade maker (alas). And the following only holds for carbon steels. I don’t know fluxes well enough to answer. Sorry. However, the reason to use a flux is to remove scale and get a nice clean surface. If you can avoid scale forming you can ditch the flux. If you can get rid of the air in the canister before heating then you would prevent scale forming and ruining your welds. Argon sounds like it’ll do the trick (though be careful and ventilate the area - Argon can kill) The main thing that will prevent a solid forge weld is scale and general crud on the surface. I’ve unfortunately never had the chance to try but I would image that plate would be easier to use since there’s a whole lots less surface to generate defects compared with wire. I’ve seen some very pretty blades made with wire/bearings/bolts etc so if the art of the craft is what interests you then don’t let that stop you from using wire.

That sounds super interesting man! I’d definitely speak with Graham at some point soon to see whether this could work! Thanks for the input!

Haven't heard the one about magnetic north for a few years 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 One of the bigger myths in my opinion. Industrially, oil would be circulated in the tank to prevent the build up of hot areas and pass it through a cooler but properly formulated quench oil has additives in it to aid even quenching at the required rate (fast or med oil for example). I don't (and don't advocate) move a blade once its immersed in the oil. Just hold it still and let the oil do the work.

Wow that is very sweet of you man thanks for that comment! Graham is an absolute legend and I am extremely thankful that I’ve been able to share this video for the knife making community!

Oh yes, This man is a treasure. But if you want, there are also some other nice clips on metal structure topic which are awesome: 1. Old BBC document from 1973 "Properties and grain structure": kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q61jaKeQytuxXWQ.html&ab_channel=moodlemech 2. Real Engineering with Alec Steele about heat treatment: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNCBZ9xhsbGVm40.html&ab_channel=RealEngineering 3. Steve Mould with a little ball bearings model on atomic structure: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtt8ZdyFkqiWhIE.html&ab_channel=SteveMould I love the topic and I hope this helps too :)

Thanks mate and please pass your comments to my son David - apparently I usually "Waffle on like a Deranged Old White Hair" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@clarkeknives4159 haha😂 nah, it's knowledge that could make my life easier during the next year when I'm doing my master so every bit is welcome 😅

Thanks again for the comments!

@@stevesyncox9893 ty... I usually torch the spine as well... This blade however has a hamon and I've discovered thru error that torching the spine on hamons kind of ruins the hamon for etching so I'm trying to avoid that... I'm gonna try tempering with a jig at a higher temp and see what happens...

@@stevesyncox9893 thanks Steve, sorry if we didn’t clarify it but yes, it’s Centigrade hahaha! Thanks for your input as well - really appreciate it!

@@kevinmorgan6382 thanks for the question Kevin! Very good question indeed and I must say, we only touched a little bit about tempering but maybe we can discuss that in-depth if that is of interest?

@@UKBladeshow absolutely... I need to learn everything from you guys, absolutely fabulous content...

@@kevinmorgan6382 cheers man - I promise we have more good stuff coming shortly but don’t forget to watch the content we’ve put out in the last 12 months - everything from knife makers showing their process to knife maintenance tips etc!

Thanks for the comment! Funny enough, we have normalising as our next video coming soon! See you in our other videos!

No doesn't need to get to room temp. The yardstick I used to work to for industrial work was below 400 Celsius for more than 20-30 mins. Regards Graham Clarke

Hahaha! Swearing doesn’t seem to be of much help fixing the bend but yeah, I hear lots of people using the 3-pin method - does it work all the time doing that or have you had failures on this method if you don’t mind me asking mate?

I use the same method with mine that come out with a bend. Depending on the bend I have used one pin and 2 small c-clamps, 2 pins and 1 c-clamp, and a few months ago I used 2 pins and 3 c-clamps. Success rate is pretty good and some steels respond better than others. Have had a couple over the years though that just wouldn't come out. I took one back to the forge, relieve the stresses (or at least I though I did), lightly tap the blade flat again, and went through the quench again. The blade was straight as an arrow but put a recurve bow in the edge. Weirdest thing I had seen. Of course that one was scraped but man did it freak me out.

@@UKBladeshow it works more than you think but I have had it where I've over bent it the other way and it snapped or just had it where it not worked at all

@@shaungreen679 hahaha yeah that can happen too!

That’s nice of you to share your thoughts and method thanks Mike!

@@UKBladeshow if we don't keep sharing it's going to get lost. Appreciate your channel.

🤪

Hahaha or both?! Nice to see you back Rob! Thanks for watching mate!

haha thanks Daniel!

In practice that would be the way, yet many industrial tips and tricks seem to not make it into the knife making world. Then again when you get an already ground or forged knife for Q+T it is probably already way too late, unless you convince them to pay for a stress relieve or normalization too.

@@dragoscoco2173 Oh totally. Definitely something you have to think about before grinding. Sure it costs, but it's better than throwing away a 1/2 day or more work.