The end of the tape measure moves for a very good reason. If you're PUSHING on an edge, it moves IN to make the outside of the end your 0 line If you're PULLING on an edge, it moves OUT to make the inside of the end your 0 line. I do want to say that i also do not use the edge when doing measurement that need to be accurate to within 1/16 or 1/8, but that's due to the fact that the end is prone to being warped and damaged, giving an inaccurate measurement as a result. In times I have no choice but to use the end for a mark and need accuracy -- hole layout on a gutter for example -- I'll measure and mark the same distance off both ends of the gutter, measure between the marks, find and mark center, and then do my 1" start off that center line instead. Just a quick FYI. Great video as always man!

I am a roofer with 18 years into the trade. The same way you measured and explained it is the same way an electrician taught me when all the trades used to sit and have lunch together every day. Good educational videos my man. Keep up the good videos

I use empty soup cans that I sharpen on one side and mount bits in the other and hand crank those through because I had to take a second mortgage out to get a Milwaukee Packout to store them in.

The Milwaukee knock out set is 👌 *chefs kiss* 👌 I am replacing a bunch of transformers right now and the knockouts are solid AF. The Milwaukee set is an absolute must have!

I like to use a hammer and nail to punch a starter hole through thin sheet metal or a self tapping screw.

the one thing I like for marking out panels and boxes is using painters tape and putting all my marks on that, so I have a super clean looking box once I pull the tape off after drilling all the holes.

Thank you for all the years of educational videos, tutorials, reviews. As an electrician that forgets things all the time, its nice to come back to videos and get a refresh

When using carbide hole saws use the clutch setting, simple green for cutting oil, and a slow speed. It will save you from breaking off teeth and ruining the bit. I used to go through several bits a year and using the clutch and taking just a bit more time makes them last forever. The carbide gets dull really fast due to the heat if you drill at high speed.

My boss has that Milwaukee knockout set. I have to find excuses to use it because it's just awesome.

Knockout punches are great for enlarging existing holes in metal boxes as well, where there's nowhere for a hole-saw pilot to engage. Can make the hole offset in an eccentric direction if needed, too, or even cut across pre-punched knockout panels without tearing them up. You can use the smaller 1/2" punch to make a hole large enough for the drawbar of the larger punches. Takes two punch cycles, but it's quieter and produces fewer metal shavings you have to clean up, and can work if you don't have a hole saw or step-bit handy at all. The outer diameter of the outer punch die is just slightly larger than the size of the corresponding conduit locknut. If you put the head of the drawbar inside the box, and that outer punch hard up against the wall of the box, you'll be guaranteed to still have enough space around the hole to fit a locknut on the fitting.

Last time i asked to borrow someone's knock out set, they said "okay" and knocked my ass out 🤣

I have a swivel Dottie set I love it because you can swivel it in into tight spots and it’s pretty compact. I like using masking tape also when mapping out the 🕳.

I'd invest in an automatic center punch. Minor tool, but absolutely worth it.

Gotta love the Milwaukee 6 ton knock out set I own one myself as a industrial electrician and most times we only have one hydraulic knock out set on site between two crews working on one site and dealing with apprentices breaking dies . It sure has paid for itself

I come from VN and working job same you. My tools like you. I watching your video for learning English. Thanks you.

I have been using a Carbide set for trade size holes 1/2, 3/4, and 1" for at least 5 years. They are great for small holes! IDEAL 36-311 carbide set... For larger holes I have a hydraulic knock out set.

I really appreciate a guy that is dialed into his trade. It's an inspiring thing to watch.

I have that same klein KO set and use a half inch impact to drive the stud... vonderbah!

Pro tip: a 1" socket and an impact driver make that $300 ratcheting set just as fast and easy as that $1800 electric set.

My master eletrician makes me use a damn step bit for the last 3 years... I feel like I could cry now.

SNIFF SINIFF, [TAKE CARE OF THAT COLD]

Pro-tip: wear safety glasses, especially if you are drilling above you. Seriously, my first month on the job I got a hot metal shard in my eye and had to get it drilled out. Always use glasses!

I got the greenlee manual knockout set, but I use the milwaukee high torque impact wrench with socket. Works very fast. Only had to get couple new bolts but much faster than manual

We have two of the Milwaukee battery KO kits, plus the 2-1/2”-4”. It is absolutely the best performing tool of all of our tools. It works flawlessly all day, and doesn’t eat up battery at all. I have personally punched 4” holes in 1960’s 3/8” thick cable tray and it just keeps going. I will say the ball n socket provided with the kit does eat up some travel and it left me hanging more than once, so I just never use it. Not fun when the machine maxes out travel with the KO stuck and half punched. But yes, best KO kit period. Fast efficient and fun to use.

Makita needs to step their game up and start making sets like this too. Milwaukee taking over the game with hand and power. I been heavily invested in Makita over the years and thinking of trading some for some Milwaukee in the future.

Done 'em all---but you did a great job showing how!! Jim

I learned how to sharpen my stepped bits. I can get about 5 or 6 sharpenings out of one before the tip is gone. I also use tapping/drilling fluid or thread cutting oil when I drill. If you are ever drilling over carpeting put some cardboard down, so that metal does not melt into the carpeting. You can also put one of those doughnut magnets around the hole to catch the metal filings as they come off the bit.

Let's play "Guess how much that Milwaukee 4 piece set costs".

Been doing that for few years now but with dewalt half inch impact and socket with threaded stud and any k.o. And Ya it’s so much better than any hydraulic Knock out. Set. But only cost me few hundred bucks. Works great. So fast and easy.

Carbide hole saws can be used for up to 2 inch trade size, they are all I use anymore after 20 years in the trade, much cheaper and less hassle. 1500$ is a lot for convenience... use a 5/16 self tapper to make your initial pilot hole, saves wear on the carbide hole saw pilot bit. EZ ARC brand carbide hole saws are reasonably priced, buy one a week and soon you'll have a set. WD 40 is your cheapest cutting fluid, a magnetized flat head screw driver collects the metal shards quickly and gets into corners, finally, use your 1/2 drill chuck settings... let it do the slipping rather than injury from the drill binding up on the metal, cutting holes in boxes on low speed with today's cordless drills can be brusing experience, use that clutch!

always enjoy your videos, your upbeat style makes it easy to learn. there are several items available on the market for catching drywall/plaster dust when drilling overhead, especially when drilling for 3" - 8" recessed lighting, could any of them be useful when drilling out in overhead boxes? I've even made some using a plastic gallon jug, always a lot of ice tea jugs laying around a worksite...lol

I think you'll find that there are two main types of ko sets. Standard (two and four point) and slugbuster that breaks the cut out into two pieces. Now how you use them can be done in multiple ways which I suppose is what you mean by types of knockout sets. Small sets are typically used with a wrench, 1/2" to two inch by a ratchet set(my favorite method, not the ratchet wrench but a two handed tool), and 2" and up with a hydraulic pump. All three methods are interchangeable so if you have a hydraulic pump set up to punch big holes and you need a smaller one you can use the pump on it to.

I am seriously drooling all over the place looking at this. I feel weird inside right now.

iirc, the pilot bits on the klein and ideal carbide cutters are stepped. i have found that no matter how much i baby them they break off (esp the klein). the greenlee pilot bits for the carbide hole saws are not stepped

If you look on the sides of the “receiving cup” of the hand KO set, you’ll likely see 4 tick marks to align with. They’re not as nice and easily visible as the Milwaukee ones, but they definitely help

I've used all of these. the milwaukee one is by far the best. pays for itself in labour cost after 1 good sized job

Thanks again for your videos.I appreciate the effort and take care of that cold.GBY!

I really like the carbide hole saws, especially when you are making a hole into something with wire in it. Because it will stop about a half inch in, and the spring on the pilot bit helps slow you down once it pierces the metal, so the hole saw doesn't grab suddenly and jerk your hand and wrist around. These are worth the investment! Personally, I think Greenlee is made from better metal and last longer. I like there drill and tap sets as well; they're handy for so many things!

yeah that knock out set is sweet use it daily, my favorite Milwaukee tool right now though is there m18 threader love that thing.

I use a 1" impact socket for the hand crank set instead of the ratchet, so much better. But that Milwaukee tool looks amazing.

Nós perdemos muito tempo fazendo algumas adaptações quando não temos as ferramentas adequadas. Ferramenta é tudo. Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho.

This is on the list, being a general contractor now, I tend to not need this nearly as much. However, I would still buy it lol

I always oil the threads on the punch bolt so it spins smooth and it actually gets pretty hot sometimes

I used to have a set of greenlee chassis punches, just used a shifting spanner after drilling the correct hole.

Years ago, I remember using an electric impact to drive the nut doing knockout vs ratcheting. Noise, yes, but also fast.

Works way better on pre-cut rings on knockouts. Glad I bought the entire set.

Dustin you should review the southwire marksman. It’s a conduit layout tool for panels. I bought one but haven’t used it in the field yet seems pretty nifty to get perfect spacing from 1/2” to 4”.

Dustin got Milwaukee Sponsorship money now he snifflin

Absolutely cool...... i use step bits all the time on my modified computer case builds... i alway use a cutting oil as well. Suggestion..... try a plastic hole template... they have center line markings for exact center's. You can use the template with your knockout kit size cutters for making perfectly centered holes. The templates have a range of hole sizes from real tiny to very large sizes.

I have used my 3/8 impact gun and a 1" socket with my manual ko set and it works great too, at least up to 2". I haven't tried it on larger sizes. One less tool to buy for smaller jobs.

We have the Milwaukee set 1/2 to 4"" it's a must have.

the company I worked for before bought a milwaukee 18v KO set, and my foreman literally won't let anyone use it, so it was just sitting in the job box, while I use the heavy-ass hydraulic KO (which is fine), but I wished I could have tried it out, it looks pretty sweet, my personal set is a hand-cranked one, for hand-cranked KO, always use a cheater bar to KO those bigger holes to prevent injury, : )

also with the Milwaukee it splits the knock out for easy removal from the ko punch

When you're on the low end of the totem pole the boss buys a Milwaukee set that he'll use 2x a month and gives you his manual set that you'll use every day.

You should try manual knockout set and instead of ratchet just use a 3/8th Milwaukee stubby impact gun with the right size socket. It’s automatic and about 200 dollars lol

Greenleee 767! Saved my bacon! I'm very strong for a woman, and even now can manage to keep up with the younger guy in productivity (experience pays dividends). But - hydraulics and the best power tools made things requiring brute strength possible for me. I enjoyed watching Dustin muscle through that 1.5" conduit hole, but even he can't do that many all day, every day without wearing his wrists out.

I've also tried using a 1 inch socket on a impact wrench when using the manual way. It does shorten the life of the knock out it self, but its nice for tight areas. also cheaper than buying the actual knockout tool.

The main reason for the carbide tipped hole saws or unibits failing is too high drill speed, slow it down and it will last, I do lot's of penetrations in stainless enclosures, slow speed and a bit of lubrication allows tools to last more than one application.

Used this sweet girl on a job doing all the infrastructure for a bunch of pantographs that was all run in SS316, custom boxes and all. This thing popped through that shit like no ones business. It’s worth every single penny lol

You should clean and lube the threads on the bolt that goes through the center of the punch before each hole. I also recommend using a good high pressure anti-seizing compound instead of just oil. The aluminum or copper based anti-seizing compound will make the job go faster and extend the life of the threads.

Find the center mark by marking one threaded hole of the cutter. Also, take the carbide off of the mandrel when drilling your pilot hole. When it breaks through you can chip your carbides and rack your pilot bit.

Haha! I think its so funny you are as pumped about this tool as me. I just started my business and this was the first investment on tools I made. I get a raging clue every time I use this thing!

Thx Dustin..... didn't find the Milwaukee info link.... did I miss it?

If you would use a pencil to make your line larger than you outer hole, the hand knockouts have alinement marks to square up on the line so that the holes will always be centered. Just like the red lines later in the video, but smaller, harder to see, and not red. Thumbs up on the video.

Greenlee knockout set is awesome idk about the other brands I haven't used them but I'm sure they all do the same

i miss the trade, i wish i wasnt so broken, your vids are great.

No C frame punch? We used to prefab cans with the old C frames. Good apprentice work. Have a journeyman do the layout lines. We also use an 881 bender's or a 666 bender's hydraulic pump to run the KO sets so it's super fast and you can destroy the cutters and dies very easily.

Hahahaahah I liked the kazoo at the end of the 4" KO favorite too AWARD! Nice Hat! BTW rock that Old School style.

I never use a Sharpie on a box or any bend marks on exposed conduit....always a pencil & those marks are always removed. Great vids!

I use hole saws for anything wood or sheet rock. I use the carbide bits for metal only. Everything I do is low voltage. I almost never need a hole over an inch.

Very Cool Toy Tools Nicely Done 👍🏽⚡️

Excelente vídeo y muy interesante,saludos

Add some wd-40 to the step bit and those shards should stick to the bit

The tape measure tip moves so you can measure by pushing your tape against the inside of something and hook it onto the outside of something

yeah my boss got two sets of the milwalke ones. so damn good

Great video as always

Had a question For the hand knock-out set can you use an impact wrench with a socket, to punch the hole out? instead of using the wrench. 🔧

Greenlee makes carbide hole cutters with replaceable teeth. Better than throwing the whole arbor away each time a new guy burns your up.

very nice; wish i had known about the Milwaukee tool before buying a 3" step bit and...the ensuing drill-drama

Hey I just watched the Roger walkfeild plumber vs electrician and I was wondering if you could do do some videos talking about all the different kinds electrical work like low voltage. Something other than the standered residential and commercial work you know I've just been curious about it

I’m about to share this to my journeymen right now

Good advice

The tape measure whether pushed or pulled will measure 1",try this and see if pulling measure from inside of hook to the inch mark and when pushing use the outside of the hook to measure..

I've said it before, but I really dig this 8-bit music theme.

I love my Milwaukee cordless knockout set

Excellent. I loved your little impact unibit. The Milwaukee hole punch. I don't know if it would be worth buying it. First off most of us have an impact wrench. It seems that is all you would need and punches that worked with the wrench. I would guess the Milwaukee would be expensive .

You’re the best Dustin ,,,🙏

I used the last tool , the Milwaukee knockout and what a sweet tool it is

8:39 The end of a tape measure moves so whether you're measuring from an outside corner, or an inside corner, you get the correct measurement. It's riveted so that the movement is the same as the return thickness.

Good video, Mr. Sniffles. Stay Jacked!

What bit are you using to drill the hole? I need 7 of them.

The Klein knockout set is good for me I just put my impact wrench with a deep socket instead of cranking it I drill through it like the Milwaukee

the whole point of carbide is that it is more heat resistant. it is, however, not as resistant to shock loads as high speed steel...

You can use a socket on your impact gun with the manual set also.

I have all three, greenlee ratchet and the hydraulic from my dad, I got a job that paid for the milwaukee with just that one job, Mines went bad twice/ or should I say I used it enough times I had to get it rebuilt twice and everytime it was the bladders that hold the hydraulic fluid and here I was thinking it had no hydraulics

You glaze over my preference fo KOs - carbide hole cutters. The fastest method. Tool abusers will do too fast and burn pilots and knock off teeth. I’ve has some sets from before they were trendy. Going on ten years. Only I use them - they are mine… A small pilot like 1/8” to get precise placement. Do all layouts based on center of holes in hole inch increments. Skip fractions whenever possible. Then a moderate speed - without rocking the hole cutter. Smoke means you’re going to fast. The same rules you would apply to bi-metal hole saws! (If you didn’t know that already) A well cared for tool will last years. If you have help that doesn’t have a healthy respect for tools. Add misc money to the job for bi-metal hole saws - and make them a job cost. Burn one - no big deal. If they survive into the next job - bonus. Have carbide hole cutter for wood as well - they don’t get used on metal- and the metal ones don’t get used on wood. My guys know my rules and will police each other.

Did you do a video on how to layout a can. If not , can you please do one? Can you show the tools that are out there to help with the layout.

I know someone has told u before but always use pencils and not markers.. I got chewed out for using markers so much that I wouldn't carry any markers for the longest time.. and I am a big milwaukee inksall fan boy.. when u become top pro amd start hiding your mistakes then u learn to use silver sharpies on metal.. lol I do it all the time now.. I make my layouts with pencil and go over the important parts with a silver sharpie.. or u can get soap stones or w/e the welders call them.. I have a few but I don't like them.. the markings they make wont hold up as well as a pencil..

@10:53 I used to do it that way too, because it absolutely _is_ the best method. However, after I got a bad case of concrete embedded puff-knuck the lowest apprentice gets that job.

RIP junction box….thank you for your service.