For your question about the voltage... Alternator ratings are similar to amp MAX ratings, meaning your alternator has the ability to put out 320 amps for a short period of time when needed. Check the spec sheet if it has one or contact the company and ask them at what rpms your alternator is spec'd at.. I have seen some as high as 6000+ rpms before they even come close to putting out the rated amperage. Either way it's still a nice upgrade and will definitely help you out in the long run. Good job bro

Nice. U need to be driving to see higher voltage. Ur parked so the alternator is at idle speed. Some are more efficient than others at idle.

Should've went with Autotech Alternators, amazing company and products, I got a 270 amp alternator from them for $290 including the powder coating, works great with 2 full throttle batteries and a big 3 upgrade on an ampere audio 3800.1, overall great video as always.

I’m glad I watched this video, CES is the exact place I was looking for. This place actually sells the stator for half the cost if you are DIYer and can do it yourself . The stator is the part that they modify from series to parallel or vice versa to convert it from 160 amps to 320 amps depending on your alternator . I am ordering my parts from from CES

Amperage can increase but voltage is regulated by the car( in most cases)! In order to get higher voltage you need an external regulator

First off, great job on upgrading you're electrical system. You didn't say much about how many RPM's you were running during you're "tests" aside from when you were talking about driving down the road. I've had 3 different CES alts and I was very happy with them all for the price.

Man. That battery is weak.. If you read your sheet it says battery resting voltage... If resting is higher so will your playing voltage.. Grab a gorilla lithium. You'll see huge diff then and only cost about 500 more bucks..🤙 Great videos man..

Hi Parker, I have years of experience in automotive repair. Your alternator is a beast. It is regulated to around 14 volts. Some upgraded electrical systems run at 16 volts. That is safely reached by upgrading the components in that system to run on 16v. Chrysler vehicles are sort of notorious for being picky about the voltage. If it is not in specific range it can cause issues, weird ones too. Have you done the big 3 yet? That will improve charging performance.

Very informative video, Parker. Keep them coming bro. These tutorials are extremely useful to a guy like me and thanks for taking the time to put them out! Enjoy your weekend bro.....

I went with JS Alts, couldn't be happier. Awesome support, I got one of the lower models and my voltage doesn't drop with a DR 2000.1 and Skar 1200.1

Great alt new batteries needed i replaced mine with a 50$ walmart battery under the hood 600 cca required batt is 750 cca and in the back a 88$ 200 amps @ 20hour marine /RV deep cell huge difference and money saved waiting to eventually get 6 super cell capacitors it will literally lock your voltage on the high end

You need an external voltage regulator. Your cars voltage is regulated by the PCM, thats why your voltage prior to music is the same. In my mazda, same thing happened when i get a singer alternator. My car would be at 14.2 cold start and drop into 13.7 13.8 range idle at warm. I hit him up and he gave me a voltage regulator for free, i just had to pay shipping. Installed that and ive never seen less than 14.1 since. Usually stays between 14.1-14.5

I use an AutoTech Engineering 320a alt in my Accord. I think it's been about 4 years now that I put it in there, no problems yet thankfully

You need the external regulator.. its still stronger and normal..theres a few trick u can do to raise the voltage.. look at a transpo 911-02r

External regulator plug is a very easy upgrade on the alternator. CES on Facebook has a detailed description on how to do it with a diode to help excite the alternator. I put a socket on mine and use external regulator so I can control my voltage from 14 to 16v with lithium 45ah bank. Hopefully this helps. I went through all beginner stuff to now.

Very nice alternator, Parker. That will help a lot when you get a couple more upgrades. You definitely need an external voltage regulator. Right now, your cars computer is controlling voltage. A few companies like mechman, and I assume CES make an external regulator, so you can set the voltage wherever you want. I personally set mine at 15 volts cold, and it drops to about 14.6 once it gets hot. Also, it's definitely time for you to add some 1/0 or even 2/0 pure copper wire for your main power run. Moving 300 amps from the front to the back is a long run, and that CCA wire can't possibly keep up with the increased amps you are now generating. I'm positive you are seeing high temperatures and voltage drop because of the wire. It's time to upgrade to the pure copper wire, my friend. It will help keep everything cool, safe, and you will always see max voltage to your rear battery. Even the short run from the alternator to the front battery would benefit moving to a nice 2/0 pure copper.

The voltage is done by the regulator and they try to keep it as close to stock as possible due to liability of the electronics that are made by your vehicles manufacturer are made to run in that voltage range . They do make external regulators that are adjustable look around they sell conversion kits

My 01 durango controls voltage thru the ecm..i use an external voltage regulator that adjustable along with my 250 amp alt..and to get output you need be about 2000 rpm.

It would of bin nice to see the voltage drop without the extra battery before and after you added the new alternator...👍

I installed my mechman 320 and big 3 today and it made a huge difference to my system. Feels like a 🦍 trying to break out my sub box.

Nice addition yep external voltage regulator will get you the results your looking for ,I wouldn't set at 15 though like a lot of viewers are suggesting that could damage your electrical over time But I new it you've got the SICKNESS there's NO turning back now lol Bass bug has bitten you my friend MORE MORE MORE lol Happy for you bro that system is turning into a MONSTER Bass machine and I love watching it grow 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

You're not really straining the system stock vs CES with that amplifier. The CES will help but in only very tiny increments. On a side note I would change those battery terminals ASAP! I had the same ones and after I installed them I wasn't happy with the fit. Plus they are cheap. I took them off a few days later and gave them to my scrap guy. ill customz has some beautiful ones that I been eyeing up. I'm not sure if I want to get the bolt down kind or the screw in kind.

Parker its your pcms voltage regulator i didnt see you install an external unit.but dodge is controlled by the ecu or pcm.it sticks at 13.8 to 14.1 or 2.get an external unit set it to 15 15.3 also your amps current draw is whats important.you need to be able to feed that many amps fairly consistently.and if you got it running at 1 ohm or lower ima tell you from experience that amp is about 70% efficient on a solid ampere load drop below that it gets dirty real quick.so think of it like this you got a car that does 6 seconds in a 1/4 mile but you can only hold 1/8th of a tank.its a start but you cant leave the house youll run outta fuel.so your best bet is to externally reg the alt to increase the volts there for increasing charge time and amperes.there like 60$ trust me youll thank me at 13.8 volts that amp is at best 70% efficent imagine 12.5 thats 10% for every half volt.see what im saying itll sound better hit harder and the subs will thank you for it.bet 20 you play them full tilt for 5minutes them coils gonna get pretty hot from the dirty power.any my point is the factory reg doesnt charge more than 14 to 14.3 on dodge and jeep.actually i think its pose to be 13.8 i think is standard discharge rate for that int regulator and if im correct it has a 2:1 brushless actuator system.

I use a Ebay 220amp alternator on my truck...6 months no issues.. Actually clamps around 180amp... for the price I can't complain..cheaper than a stock replacement

NICE VID bro! NEW UPGRADES!!!

Upgrade your batteries I would go with lithium 25a or higher since yu have a320 a alt now

Nice! I was thinking about getting a Mechman alternator myself. I haven't got a read on my voltage yet but, I'm sure the 1,000 watt amp I got hooked up is putting a lot of stress on my stock electrical system.

Goin on 2 yrs with my ces 320 alt and in an everyday vehicle clamping 3400 watts at times.The demand voltage from some cars at idle are usually lower with based on fuel and ignition system but some guys vehicles will actually ramp up when stereo is playing and their voltage in turn will be stronger then not playing their stereo at all,givin theyve got a lot battery reserve

As dirty as the engine bay is, I wouldn't have wasted the $45 for the powder coating.

That's wild. My ces 270 runs 14.9 all day.

the same spec can be found in an alternative alternator if you can find the model you want from mechman guys "its a VELEO 11358" unit that comes stock in bmw e70 e.t.c or the bigger unit that comes in the M50d the small unit does 230amp idle and 370 at rev haven't tested the big unit's peak new equipment need to be built for that seems like over 400 amps (make my load catch fire) these unit are used in other German cars to with all different types of mounts keep in mind the oem BMW version uses LIN bus for control (BMW x5 alternators are cheap & everywhere !) not E53 versions ! must be newer e70 & onwards

Couple questions for you boss...... First is how is the alt doing now???? I just paid 400 for my 320 amp alt from ces asked for it to charge at 15.3 volts since im running cmaxx but are they worth the money???? Second question is did you ever figure out where your alt puts out its power from ces? Like what rpm? Hopefully 2k or below or ill need to cancel my order

Get an external regulator to be able to control anything ypur alt does at any time or weather hot or cold or if your bumping or just driving...... Nice upgrade dogg... Also dont charge over 14.8 14.9 unless your running lithium like yinglong they like 15.2 15.3... But your stock electrical in your car does not maybe run your aftermarket alt seprate to you car audio batts n get a double alt bracket n run stock to stock....

Should be able to put a resistor or diode inline an be able to keep ur v up...i use a resistor inline an i see 14.8 14.9 on cold startup an 14.4 at idle....reallllllly hot days it will idle at 13.9 on factory alt......good luck

Nicely done

Yeah. Was wondering if you disconnected your back bat as well. Any plans for a voltage regulator and would one be used or needed in this setup or in the future? [Edit] I totally forgot about the double up on the twelves. Got all hype again.

Monster Alternator!! Stable Voltage

You should definitely switch to lithium man. It saves so much weight and money over AGM. Just make sure you delete all AGM out of the system if you do that. Also sometimes the car regulates the voltage/amperage instead of the alt. I had to swap the internal regulator out on my CES alt and get a harness with a diode wired into it, and had to not use my factory harness, because the wires went directly into the cars regulator, of course I have a battery light now because it just bypasses all of that. You can check with Mike Singer at Singer alternators and see if he can get you one made up if you're interested. Mine was 13.8V stock, but now it will charge at 14.8V and actually put out 250A when clamped. Make sure you get a clamp meter that does DC and AC measuring for amperage. DC from alt to the battery for the real world charging amperage, and AC for clamping your speaker wires so you can see how much power your subs are seeing. Looking good so far man.

Redo your grounds with crimped 2/0 or 1/0 welding with 5/16” or 3/8” silver tinned copper ring terminals! Also use some 4 spot aluminum or copper battery distro on your batt positive and negative ( ring term or set screw) for big 3 and runs back to amps. Bad crimps or solder joints can wreak havoc on otherwise strong electrical

Dud u get it before or after Jonathan Patrick quit? Should have bought a brand x from JP

Congrats on the new 320a bro,,

Did you notice a difference in how loud your subs played?

Congrets on getting this very important car part awesome . Now for the bad news 3000 watts rms is all you are getting there. Now if you want more amps a 2nd alt needs to be there with 6 support batts is needed to complete the power supply cycle. Now 3 supports batts you can get right now to complete the 3000 amps of power.

in my opinion you should’ve went with mechman

Hey, I have the same alt. You need to get an external regulator to charge higher. I recommend bluebox. Also you need to charge your batteries, on that spec sheet it tells you your batteries should be charged around 12.8. Also you need to get more reserve. The alt can only do so much if there is not enough reserve.

Do all alternators have the same fitting to attach to the car?

So you can replace your oem alternator with a high output alternator without having to change anything? Relays? Anything at all?

It's pcm bypassed, put i 470 ohm resistor on it parker💯 all newer Chrysler dodge jeep, pcm controlled

Do you still use this alternator today ? And have you had any issues ??

STILL HAVE THIS ALT?...IF YES HOWS IT DOING?

Do you have any idea where to find a high output alternator for a Subaru with the fb25 engine? 2011+ forester 2014+ legacy 2014+ outback. I have a 2013 forester and for the life of me can not find a HO alt.

Hey dude do you feel like lithium or alt was a bigger help? I really want something bigger alt than I have but can’t find anything over the 250 I have

Alternator is the single best upgrade for and system

Wonder how it compares the more expensive alternatives like us alternators and mechman alternators, they typically are more premium alts.

Is this a 320a small or large case?

Hey Parker I have the skar 2000.1 amp with 2500 watt 12s in a vw with stock alternator. Big 3 done. Rpms jump with beat, what size alternator should I purchase any ideas why they jump also?

With the smaller pulley, did you have to get a shorter serpentine belt?

Did have a fusible link in the alternator wire that connects to the battery?

I have 3 12in kickers l7s what tarama will be the biggest to use thanks

Next time you want to pull the positive cable. Less likely to find an accidental connection than the negative. Thanks for the upload.

My CES small case 320amp when I rev it to 1000 rpm stays in the 14s and I got 4 American bass xfl 12s on a taramp md8k and I love it cause when I'm not basting my music its sits right at about 14 but when I crank it up it'll stay there

Also did you tune your ct sounds voltage meter...

I’m just want to know what brand your alternators and where you buy from I have 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser when I turn up my sub amp the voltage is dropped down to 12v from 13.8 please let me know thanks you

just need to put in my purple one 350 amps baby

What subs are you running I would reset your PCM

Why no amperage test?

Is it still going good?

Did you keep the alternator when you sold the jeep

You earned sub

Amperage~ correct term “current”

Was your old alternator a stock?

I have a stock alternator

I payed $320 for my CES 320a😰😰 2010 jeep grand cherokee

Ciao Parker l'alternatore c'è anche per Opel meriva? Auguri per il tuo canale sei bravo e simpatico auguri

So Parker what is your setup gonna be now what 2 subs and amp? What door speakers and amp too?

what about belt size difference?

You're voltage should remain the same because you don't want to overload the electrical system in your car. Your battery should always show 12V when the car isn't started. You should never want more than 14.4 Volts while running because that could damage you're electrical system over time. The one thing that the High amp alt should be doing which it looks like it does is maintain the voltage better and give an increase in charging amperage.

It’s your computer that’s controlling your voltage you should of had that alternator set at 14.6

Bruh u should of went with Brand X. Way cheaper and you can have the option to have it set at 15.2. 200 amps at idling on a 270 alt. Plus it was 320

where can I get one

I can’t find one for 2019 maxima if you guys know where

need one for a 2zzge lotus engine

Witch one will fit a 95 lt1 350 ?

It looks like the spray painted it !🤦‍♂️

very cheap my car was $ 620 custom buidt ... your engine light is on , not good

Ive tried searching this brand x everyone keeps saying and cant find them online at all

Nice whats there website or phone # i whant check wt they have for my car

What's your thought on js alternators?

PARKER WHEN YOU SAID YOUR PULLEY BELT IS SMALLER YOU HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR BELT TO A SHORTER SIZE IF YOU PUT THE SAME BELT IT WONT DO YOU ANY GOOD.. MEASURE THE STOCK PULLEY WHEEL THEN THE SMALLER ONE AND DEDUCT THAT FROM ORIGINAL BELT SIZE AND GET THAT CORRECT BELT WHICH WOULD BE SMALLER SO THE HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR RUNS HOW IT SHOULD!

I think mechman is a better brand they’re alts have a high charge output at idle

Phone # to where u got it?

Tell them that your car idles lower than most cars

Upgrade your battery to a xs6500

Yeah I would have recommended CES when Jonathan Patrick was working there and he personally built the alts but since him getting denied the payment he deserved and then fired by the owners WIFE I honestly would not buy anything from them so by me telling you about my alt it is not about the company CES it is about the man who built it which was Jonathan Patrick lol but I had msg'd him on Facebook inquiring about an alt for my 08 Lincoln mkx as I had found some company on ebay claiming to have a 300amp alt for around $289 well turns out that company was a joke and he ships out used junkyard alts that're OEM spec'd claiming them to be 300amp alts lol but to my surprise Jonathan Patrick offered to build me a true 300amp alt for the same price, so I paypal'd him the money at 6pm that day and the alt was on my doorstep the following morning and he had emailed me a vid testing it and my 300a does over 200a at idle and I have two SKAR SK3500'S strapped at 1ohm each with an XS power D3400 under hood and a d3100 out back and I literally have zero voltage drop while driving even at full tilt... your voltage is regulated internally by your vehicles computer so adding more amperage is not going to net you a higher voltage but you can buy an external regulator and turn it up so the alt puts out 16v if you wanted to! Lol

Too bad they powder coated the copper wiring on the inside of the alternator 👎

Tars amp

ITS NOT WEIRD... ITS A SCAM AN YOU JUST PROVED IT..THANKS

Here's a link to a external voltage regulator that a lot of people are telling you to get it happens to be for dodge Chrysler vehicles. I assume this will give you 14.4 or even 14.6 at Idle kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9qInduotafHeJ8.html