Nice! I liked the bronze repair.

Excellent work, sir!

This is a good video, I've got to repair a vintage honda tank. Silicon bronze is the way to go. I attemped it already with a mig, but I couldnt get it to seal...so im going to have to cut that section out and have another go. Its also got some pretty severe corosion in the front that ill have to cut out and replace... Just got to figure out how to make the patch panels as there a pretty complicated shape.

'He who has a TIG machine, is god of the neighborhood'...that said, and having worked as a commercial welder, 'odd jobs' are a dime a dozen around my place. Owning many bikes over the years, also gave me a lot of experience with 'Tanks'... First off...that bike was the victim of a 'dropped bike' scenario. Knocked over, it dented the tank in...then some genius with a MIG decided he would 'dent-pull it' and then weld-fill the screw holes (seen it quite a bit, actually). NEVER DENT PULL with screw pullers!!! You drop a bike and dent the tank, either have a tank-muffler shop (performance shop) use a 'hydrostatic pressure system' to 'blow it back to form'...or use non-intrusive 'plasti-weld tabs' and pull them (most older tanks, this won't work, as they are anywhere from 7-10 gauge and too thick for plasti-weld tabs to work...so hydrostatic or nothing). You can make up your own hydrostatic pressure system with a power-washer and a lathe, if you are seriously wanting to get into it...simply cut your 'plugs' (for the fill and vents) on the lathe, then 'use a power-washer' to pressurize the tank until the dent 'pops' back out. There MAY BE some remaining deformity, but a decent body shop can body-hammer the contour back in...TRY TO ALWAYS AVOID BODY FILLER! If you can't fix it with simple 'filler-primer', then you aren't smooth enough yet! Flat face body hammer, or 'pop' it again! (Good money to be made in this as a 'side venture', by the way...considering a new motorcycle fuel tank can cost $500 to $1,800 each...and that's BARE BONES, no paint...and few OEMs stock specific model tanks past 5-years!) Now...as for that 'stainless' filler panel...OUCH! ALL MOTORCYCLE METAL TANKS are made from 1008-1020 CRS (Cold Rolled Steel)...low carbon steel! This 'burn through' is because of the heat dissimilarity between the CRS and Stainless...combined with that thin wall! ALWAYS use 1018-CRS plates ON-THICKNESS for the tank match...2-4-back plate 'tabs' are sufficient to place the plate, hammer the body contour before you tack the plate in place (a block of oak and sanded to a 20-30 inch radius on top works PERFECT, for most situations). Now...TIG the plate. A decent Lanthanide with a SPECIAL GRIND works best...believe it or not, getting that tip 'sharp as a hypodermic' is NOT what you want...THAT CONCENTRATES HEAT! Put a small 'round' on the end...maybe a 20-degree grind or so...this will actually help dissipate the heat, while getting full penetration...AND NOT FACILITATING A FRACTURE LEAK 2-3 years down the road! Again...I wish more did this kind of work...and it pays WELL! If you have 'art skills' and can mix enamels (or even work in acrylics and clear transfers), it is WELL WITHIN REASON to expect making $100,000 to $150,000 a year doing nothing but bike tanks and fenders...AND THEY BRING THEM TO YOU! (my local market is TOTALLY SATURATED, however, as I am near our southern border...and there are a LOT of 'choppers' here that make MANY of the bike shows...a lot of top-end artists and sheet metal guys, too...plus, over 60, my hands aren't as 'precise' as they once were...beyond 'friendly piece-work' for others)

Always fill the tank with water 3 times draining each time then dry the tank. Apetrol vapour of between 4 and 12% vapours to air and then you have a bomb. Be very careful this could easily kill.

Thankyou, very nice work !

Once you pass 50 it becomes " master of some " ! LOL

What is that hole inside? Gas sending or senting unit? I have that in my HD tank and cant undestand what for somebody made such a huge hole for? I can’t find cap or cover that makes it tight. I will weld it probably too.

What size is the rod. Is that a tig or regular stick welder

What diameter silicon bronze filler did you use? Great work!

It didn't explode...I'm good to go 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

How long did you purge it with the shop vac?

Here’s an idea... weight... not aluminum too heavy.... does a MAGNET STICK!!! No. SS

Wow! A lot of misinformation here. Hope nobody copies your procedures for de-fuming a gasoline tank. Why would you use stainless to repair a steel tank? And you attempted the weld with the wrong filler wire, a lack of Tig skill and a bad fit up.