This is zhe way!

That's a good one, deutsche die Englisch sprechen lieben wir 😂

This is the most German video spoken in English ever! And I love it!

Sign zee paperz olt maan!

😂

I can totally relate! I recently printed a storage for my camera batteries. It took three different remixes and then time scaling until it fitted. The measuring tool in the Slicer is almost mandatory at this point.

I always leave a 0.2mm tolerance for easy but snug fit

That helps. Different materials and printers make the behavior impossible to predict unless you tested it before so more planed tolerances make for universally useable models.

I totally agree. I have spent days printing two different sets of drawers for my Ender 3 Pro, both from different contributors, and both were too tall, hitting a screw in the bottom of the build plate. So frustrating!

The measuring tool in the Slicer is so helpful. Prevented me from printing stuff that wouldn't fit anyway a few times already.

Thank you! It's always delighting so see people excited about something I took for granted.

Thanks! And those are only the most ubiquitous and easiest to fix mistakes... Feel free to share the videos anywhere :-)

Yeah I used to make lots of mistakes in designing parts but now a smooth it out

In a case where there is that guy who doesn't know s..t about 3D printing, still sends you parts to be printed and never learns, I have a special treatment. I just remove the Z support gap and laugh maniacally while the guy is trying to remove those damn supports! I am probably a bad person to do that to someone, but if that someone keeps repeating exactly the same mistakes, what can I do?

@yuriysukhorukov391 this is eeeeeeevil. It like it!

That's the spirit! I once copied the design of a bike wall holder since there was no source file and uploaded everything. People thanked me so many times for the source since you could fit it to any wheel size.

This is the way

I only upload STP files. And because of this fact, I asked one designer to also offer STP files, because I wanted to update his model to a new version of the object inside of it.

Sharing step files is commie shit

I wonder why STEP isn't the default anyway. Why did STL become the standard?

Way to go! When I was a total beginner I always thought the bad print is my fault. It is printable with very fine layers but that's not really a good solution.

@@SmallBatchFactorycura has a great feature called "make overhangs printable." This actually alters the geometry of the model so nothing is more than a 45 degree overhang (or possibly whatever you have your overhang angle set to in support settings, not sure). If the only problem you have is badly designed rounded chamfers, that should fix it.

Or you could do what I do: make a curved bottom edge that starts at a 40°-45° slope and curves upward to vertical. This prints well and looks better than a simple chamfer, but it's a bit more work to figure out how much to lower the curve center.

That's a really handy trick! Just like angle tools have a circle where the edge goes in to make it fit in any case

nerd

My first designs also totally sucked. Learning takes time!

I'm glad you liked it! Such a small world after all. In many cases "good enough" totally gets the job done anyway. I would lie if I said my early designs weren't a mess either, figured the part about fillets on the build plate the hard way. Somebody even one uped my suggestions with a better one I featured in a community post. We're all just students :-)

It's also depends a lot on material. PLA is a trash material when it comes to functional prints. I only print functional stuff in PETG.

That's a way too generic take on PLA

I guess they design the model once for different poses and don't really care how you're supposed to print it. Only a few models like Adalinda the dragon are made with printing in mind and work without any supports.

I think people are scared of mesh mixer but if they give it a chance these issues would a 2 minute fix

@knifeyonline definitely and I'm guilty myself. Seems like a good video idea

@@SmallBatchFactory yeah! It's certainly not an over exposed topic, I don't think anybody is tired of watching people use mesh mixer. So many uses. I saw somebody scan their face and clean up the model in meshmixer to print a mask.

@knifeyonline that's right. If it were I probably would've used mesh mixer already.

I like that approach as well. It gives me peace of mind. I also often run a screws perpendicular to the layer lines to compress the print. Makes them virtually unbreakable.

Good! With elephants foot there's always the issue that it's highly dependant on your printer. A chamfer is a good start. My Prusa default profile for example is not enough for how close I print my first layer.

Definitely! I view Thingiverse as "serving suggestion" and a source on inspiration. It usually even takes less time to do it yourself than finding something fitting...

Thank you! Got a request to advertise a desk today. Despite all their praise for my content they didn't bother to watch it I guess...

You're absolutely right. That's under intended use. What I expect is somebody getting caught with a shoulder or something while passing the holder and snap of a whole hook.

Those are common problems. Prusa has a printed plate with their logo so it does work, but the letters need to be large enough You can add a box volume in the Slicer to fill those voids though. An easy way to get rid of unwanted markings in those models.

Thanks! We're all guilty, I was too. Combining standard hardware is a real game changer. Be it screws, zip ties or something else. The Voron team for example combines cheap small idlers with printed parts to make bigger ones that would cost over 10 bucks each.

Yeah it's very easy to fall into the trap of 'if all you have is a hammer...', especially when said hammer is a hobby unto itself.

A lot of people have 3D printing as a hobby. I see 3D printing as a tool for my hobbies. Just like laser cutting, welding, electronics and woodworking

Thanks, I need to work on that. Compared to the last video I managed to wave my hands less so there's that :-)

You didn't move your head to much. You were being you and the video was perfect. Whoever was paying attention to your head moving was not here for the actual content of the video.

@patrickcarpenter6258 thank you for your kind words! I guess there is a middle ground I still have to find. After all it's only my 8th video ever. Besides, my wife also said it's too much and you know what that means :-)

@@patrickcarpenter6258 Just because you do not notice things, does not mean they don't happen.

@@patrickcarpenter6258 "Whoever was paying attention to your head moving was not here for the actual content of the video." - what a false assumption. I'm here for the content but this head banging is so distracting like someone poking me with a stick every few seconds. Hard to focus on the content. I understand it's my problem that something distracts me but looks like I'm not the only one. Still, good content anyway!

That would also work! Your imagination is the limit in 3D printing.

@@SmallBatchFactory Yeah I just like sharing additional ideas in the comments. Always looking for ways to improve a design for printing, customize it for individual desires, and possibly add functionality if useful. Fun thought exercises. :) Keeping it simple is often the best approach for real usage though.

I think a lot of people tend to try to model things as a single piece, even when a design would really benefit from multiple pieces.

@@logicalfundy Definitely true. I like to try to think of how it would work both ways and go with what makes sense. Learning how to design for 3D printing is still an evolving art for most.

High precision machines we are

Thanks! Only downside it was a tad bit small after adding the visor and compressed the guys nose while wearing. He still was very happy though, I guess cosplayers are used to endure such things.

That's actually even better than my example. There's always room for improvement :-)

Thank you! It seemed to me a lot of channels today only do "Review of $RANDOM_PRINTER". Knowing how to make that printer work properly on the other hand is a rare thing...

Yes, this is absolutely true!@@SmallBatchFactory

Yes definitely! The Voron project is one of the greatest example of people understanding 3D printing extremely in depth. Not only is the printer great the parts are all printable without any extra supports, everything is already accounted for.

Looking at the comments many people share the pain. I decided to do something about.

Thanks! At least they're growing rapidly. A silver play button would be really nice.

Yes, they should. When we printed face shields people handed it prints that already broke when looking at them so I suppose the fillet is the least of some people's problems.

Thank you!

Finally someone notices! I swear I wrote 5 in my script... At least for the Prusa 2mm always made 5 perimeters since extrusion width is set to 0.42 by default. The animation you see in the video is with Arachne so it doesn't matter as much as it used to anyway.

Says 0.45mm width for 0.4mm nozzle in prusaSlicer 2.7.1 as default. but the idea is extrusion width * whole number = thickness of walls you design?

Generally. Don't forget that every perimeter also has a few percent of overlap with the others. With Arachne that doesn't matter as much anymore. Formerly I would've checked if all perimeters are yellow (as opposed to white, which means gap fill) and used that value. 2mm turned out to work well for me.

Glad to have you on board :-)

Thanks for watching!

Sorry.... :-D I did that as well for models I printed more than once

That's the one! Somebody sent me in an example of this, I posted it as community post.

Thank you!

Plus it usually only takes a few minutes to design. Less than figuring out if an existing one even fits

That's true, there's a lot more nuance to the chamfer thing. A Fillet also works as long as the radius isn't too large. That alone could be a while video of its own

So much wasted material... I'm a huge advocate of efficiency and optimization. I even print a lot of models with no infill at of I don't need to. There are so many great ways to optimize the design like screws that are flat in top and bottom for example. Maybe I should do a part 2 and show things like this.

Yes indeed, it's way more fun to do it properly. I usually think about models for days before I even open Fusion 360. After that it's often just a few minutes to create the model itself.

That's true, incorporating some inspiration in your own model usually yields the best and quickest result. The clothes hanger shown had an f3d file but it was pretty hard to work with. I've only welded to mitigate issues in a print. I've been using a soldering iron and filament, like a TIG welder. Haven't had much luck with the pen alone

Blessed is he who confesses his sins. I too have sinned in the past.

Thank you!

Thanks! Only takes one messed up print to reconsider

I think a two stage hybrid thing works ok where you can have the bottom most part as a chamfer and then the joint between chamfer and the vertical part being executed as a round fillet. You can even make the chamfer a little steeper than 45 if you like for more of the joint to be rounded.

Thanks!

Thanks! Got to start somewhere :-)

That's annoying. You could try to split the parts and put everything on the plate. A good advice is to always check the resulting print in the Slicer at least briefly. Floating layers are usually easy to spot.

Of course it always depends on the use case. If you have walls that have a considerable distance to each other, like 5mm or more it also increases torsion strength. It's not a one size fits all approach :-)

It's always cool to push the boundaries of what's possible, keep up the innovation!

Thank you!

You're totally right about the Resin printer. In the case of my examples they were all printed with FDM.

Thanks! Slant 3D is awesome. So many printers...

Thanks! I'm alway afraid to get into the distorted zone, the audio is already bumped A LOT. But I didn't did a cross check this time, comparing to other videos. Next time :-)

It's one of the lessons in my course, but IMO it's usually not that huge of a deal.

Thank you! I'm impressed how many people like it, never imagined the topic to appeal to so many people

Foot thick walls are a thing for woodworkers dabbling into 3D printing I guess. It always shows what people are accustomed to

@@SmallBatchFactory seems like a lot of people get hung up on making prints stronger rather than strong enough. I still have a box I made as a first vase mode test years ago that I’ve used to drop hot nozzles into during nozzle changes (with a wet sponge at the bottom and sometimes some water) and it both doesn’t leak and has been plenty strong enough ever since.

Welcome to the family, glad I could help! I think it's the ideal compliment to the course, helping improve Thingiverse & Co. A bit. Makes me really proud to hear that! Let me know in case you get stuck anywhere. Getting that beginner view really helps improving explanations where necessary.

@@SmallBatchFactory I’m sort of “stuck” in a sense as I’m trying to motivate myself to finish the last videos of the “creating your first model’ section. It can feel like a bit of an information dump to a newbie like myself. I wanted to remix a fan bracket and figured I’d try your course as an intro to CAD/Fusion360. I kept trying to use what I had learned in the first chapters of your course to get started, but I couldn’t really figure out how to sketch out the dimensions of what I wanted drawn on paper yet. I’m sure it’s more comprehensively laid out in further lessons, and I just had super unrealistic expectations about quickly modeling the design (I was so eager to design the part and I am very inept at viewing the world in a “problem solving” manner - so I was really operating in unfamiliar territory.) That’s when I tried out TinkerCAD and found “hey this works just like a slicer, I can manage that” and a day or so later I had the part printed. Poorly, and without the ability to make quick adjustments to dimensions, but it was made and I really needed that dopamine hit. Iterating on that design I can do things that took me 2 hours in 2 seconds now. When I get some more time in the next week, I plan on sitting down and taking a proper crack at the course. I feel like the lessons I’ve learned playing in TinkerCAD will only benefit me, since I literally had no idea what I was doing before, and now I’ve come a long way (with still soooo long go!) So if I had suggestions for the course, I’d say add in some ways to give my ADHD ass some dopamine hits early on and frequently. Really shove those dopamine hits down my throat, learning is painful without them. I’m possibly a unique case though in that sense 😅

Oh yes, doing everything properly surely is a lot of information. My first attempts also were mostly "I want to get things done". I did my best to get to the first practical model as soon as possible and that also means there are still a lot of things to learn to create more complex shapes. I guess that's what you experienced, you have something on mind that's actually easy to build out of 3D shapes while it takes some getting used to doing it with sketches. Maybe we can use your project and add it as additional practical example to the bonus section.

You're spot on! You said it better than I could've. I wanted to create a more complex shape, without really knowing that's what I wanted to make. I have a couple more things on my "wishlist" of learning. A replacement latch for my freezer door, some cool accessories for my cargo bike (cupholder for my daughter perhaps?). Silly stuff like that I guess. I think I'll be able to do it, maybe even quite easily - especially once I have a bit more time to watch the rest of the course.

I'm sure you'll get used to "thinking in sketched" with a bit of practice! Something mounted to a bike frame or some other tube would actually be a good example to add to the course. I already did a few bike accessories screwed onto the frame and this might be not too obvious to some. I'll definitely add that to the ToDo list!

That works as well. To. Be fair a very minimal Fillet works as well, if you keep it at 1mm or so. It's still an art, not an exact science

Thank you! Don't make me blush :-) For now no sponsoring, let's see if I this is a sustainable choice.

Oh yes they do and I'm certainly guilty myself. If you keep it to a millimeter or two they still work well. Many overdo it and that's when they fail miserably.

You're welcome! May the world be blessed with better designs from here on :-)

Thanks! OnShape is noted :-)

⬆️⬆️⬇️⬇️⬅️➡️⬅️➡️🅱️🅰️ Start

Only way to mitigate it a bit is finer resolutions, maybe variable layer height. Resin printers don't have as many issues with it since layers cure at once.

@SmallBatchFactory I looked into getting a resin printer, but the toxicity and post processing scared me off

@TheTurtleyOne oh yes. I bought one and I hate it. So much waste produced and a lot of fumes. I have a profesional mask but still... I don't even keep it in the house.

If they included very tight tolerances some machines might not be precise enough for it to fit. It usually helps to scale up the model below 1% in size. You can check the dimensions directly in the Slicer.

Well, I can't deny that...

Can't argue with that! Step files would be the very best solution.

Glad to have you on board!

Thanks for watching! There's still room for more classes depending on what people need. I need to get a bit deeper into FreeCAD, it takes quite a bit of getting used to.

Is it save though? I've heard of PLA fusing with things like chloroform, which is obviously not save. I don't know about ethyl acetate though. Other viewers pointed out flaring out the end of the hook is an even better solution.

@@SmallBatchFactory ethyl acetate is a simple organic ester (of acetic acid and ethanol) present in most fruit and contributing to the aromas we consider "fruity". Of course it can be irritating and should not be ingested in large concentrations, it's also flammable -- but it's still considered safe to handle.

@TomaszStachewicz sounds interesting! I usually use superglue since I have it at home anyway.

Inspiration is usually my approach as well. I even do that with furniture... Usually you can see it's not bad intention, it's a lack of skill. The clothes hanger bracket for example came with a source file and was very botched together. Changing this was a challenge.

It's mostly a matter of what people have learned to adapt to. 3D printing is so young compared to injection molding designers don't have much experience. I've even seen the Prusa video how Volkswagen uses 3D printing and they wasted so much support material...

Thanks! I'm planning on growing big but I don't want to become a interview or project channel. Education is my cup of tea.

In this case you might want to add ribs on the inside, ideally at a 45 degree angle. Those add a lot more strength than simply making walls thicker

I understand the thick walls, as they dont really bear any load they can be much thinner than usual. But I disagree about the other thing you mention. What do you base that conclusion on? Closed box sections are actually incredibly torsionally stiff. Even without a lid a square section is fairly torsionally rigid, only when you remove one of the walls the stiffness drops dramatically. See also chapter 3 of Gere's Mechanics of Materials. Of course ribs can be added to increase the torionsonal stiffness even further, but for an enclosure is that really necessary? When is that ever subjected to torsional loading?

Thank you!

Thanks!

Much appreciated!

I sure hope so!

We can't really complain if we don't pay for it. But to be fair I have the same experience with furniture. I usually already have an upgrade plan when leaving the shop or even build it from scratch.

I'm working on that