My pleasure! Doug

Welcome and enjoy.

You are so welcome.

Darrell, you are so welcome. Glad I could help.

Good to hear Christopher. Good luck!

You are welcome.

You are so welcome.

You are very welcome.

Thanks Norman.

Thank you Greg. It is something I enjoy and try to get better at all the time.

Agreed, great teaching and detail

Gracias!

You are welcome.

It really is my pleasure.

It is my pleasure.

Thank you

Thank you, I hope you found some useful info.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Yes...I live in a condo right now, so I have nowhere to try casting, but one day I'll get around to it, so I bookmarked this video!

Thank you

my pleasure.

My pleasure

My Pleasure

My pleasure.

Lionel, you are welcome! Doug

de nada

Thank you!

You are welcome.

You are welcome Greg! How have you been?

Keep me updated. Curious to hear your results.

My pleasure.

Hello. I use what is called "sticky wax" it adheres very well, and then I attach the wax sprue to the sticky wax.

Thank you.

You are so welcome.

It is not ideal to do a complete burnout, cool, and reheat it, but it is possible. If you have done a complete burnout, then just reheat the flask to casting temperature, 1000 degrees Fahrenheit for example, and let it sit at that temperature for 1-2 hours minimum, depending on the thickness of the flask, then cast. Hope this answers your question. Doug

I would go with the manufacturer’s suggested curing time. The more mass of the piece, the longer the cure time. I “over-cure” my pieces just to be sure. It is hard to tell if they are properly cured, but after casting you can definitely tell if is was not cured enough.

There are so many variables when it comes to controlling pits and porosity in casting. Defect recognition is important, and you have to identify what the problem is. Are you dealing with pits, shrinkage porosity, gas porosity, or inclusions, etc? With porosity, the first is correct design principles that follow what is call directional solidification. Next is sprue size and placement, which is even more critical when it comes to resin casting. Another important thing to watch for is how the piece is attached to the sprue and to the tree base. Watch to make sure this is a clean union and there is no chance for pits, cracks, or bubbles that can catch small pieces of investment it the metal. Casting temps are also important depending on the volume of the piece. So I guess what I am saying is there is no “ exact procedure” for every piece, but there are principles that when followed will give you a higher success rate. Hope this helps. Doug

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thanks Doug! I am very new to lost wax casting, but I have heard many stories from people who struggled with pits and porosity problems. I totally agree with your comments that there are many variables that could cause the issue, and we need to examine carefully on them, and practice is the key. I will probably bother you again in future once I get some results. Still working on setting up my studio….

Yes I have, little different process, but have had much success.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk would like to know about that. Thank you Doug for simple and useful videos good luck

When vacuuming the air out, I mix for 3 minutes, vacuum the mixture for 3 minutes, and vacuum the mix in the flask for 3 minutes. Total of 9 minutes working time.

Hey Doug, I use Ultravest, and for the fine detail and lettering, I add "Boric Acid Water". I am not sure of the mixture, but I add about 2 oz. of POWDERED Boric Acid to 1 gallon of hot water, let it dissolve, then set aside and use it at room temperature. Hope this helps Doug

Hey Freddy, I use a B9Creations printer from B9C.com

id say maybe 2500

@@BigBackFitness404 thank you so much! That’s really not a bad amount to invest in starting a new business

Yes I do.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thanks for the reply

Sorry Kevin, I have a B9 machine, and it is all set up internally.

I use a couple burn out schedules, but the highest temp is 1350f and the casting temp is usually 1000f

Thank you 😊

Which district, what city ?

Yo 👀 so you just take your prints and they make the molds ?

Hello Ayesh, the 1350 temp is to eliminate all the wax/resin residue completely. The 1000 is the flask temperature to cast the metal. (1350 is too high and will create gas pressure and gas porosity in the castings. Hope this helps. Doug

I use B9Creations Emerald resin.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thanks for the reply! I just realized it was in the the title lol

What is the boric water How can we mede it

It really depends on the pieces you are casting. Thin pieces I cast at 1050-1100, and heavy pieces I cast at 900-950. Normal pieces I stick around 1000 flask temp. there are a few types of porosity, but the majority of it is shrinkage porosity and it comes from the design and sprue placement more than flask temp in my experience.

I had a quick question. what do you consider a heavy piece when using gold?

@@mrmartins7900 maybe 2mm thick or more.

Hello Justin shuman do you get rid of porosity in casting?

The Printer I have is a B9 printer which works off of high intensity UV lighting.

Thanks, many times I do, but other times I like to see how the piece is without extra sprues.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk i guess you’ll end up with a nice ring either way, thanks for the response

Hello and thanks for the great questions. First, the boric acid in the water strengthens the investment. I could put the powder in with the investment, but it wouldn’t mix consistently. Boric acid when heated, turns to a glaze. It is important to cure the resin fully, and the thicker the piece, the longer you need to cure it. I cure mine in a dish of water to keep the oxygen away. Hope this helps. Doug

hello, thanks for the video. Will you give me the % of boric acid to mix with the water? That sure helps a lot. Thanks

Hello, I am using Satin Cast 20

Hello. Yes, the investment is porous enough to allow a bit of vacuum assistance through it. I add the straws as a channel for the vacuum to assist a bit more to the harder to fill places.

Sorry, I know of no other way.

Porosity can usually be overcome with proper design and sprue (Gate) placement. Boric acid strengthens the investment during burnout, it adds a “glaze” effect when heated.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk what do you mean by sprue (gate) please define

hey how its going? hope everything is working well for you

Yes, every metal has a specific gravity, which can easily be searched on the internet. For example, the difference in weight for silver is 10.4, 14ky is 13.07, etc.

Exactly, more vacuum assist to get the draw closer to the harder to fill areas.

Yes, it will work in sand casting, but the designs are limited do to the constraints of sand casting. (straight walls and no undercuts)

Thanks Matt. I will try that.

Ayesh, I add about 2 ounces of powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of hot water, stir well, and let sit to room temp. Hope this helps. Then I use this water to mix with the investment.

I have never done grillz. Sorry, no help.

It strengthens the investment and keeps the fine areas in the design from breaking.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thank you very much doug.

Depends on the metal you are using. There are calculations used for different metals.

Resins from 3D printing need to be cured, or completely hardened from the growing process. UV lights are what cures the resin completely.

Pablo, I can help, but need more info. Centrifugal or vacuum casting (or other) How are you melting your metal? Flask and metal temperature? Sprue size? Sprue location? Ring size? (Thickness or volume) Wax or 3D Printed Resin? All these things are important to know.

I have had success doing it.

Distilled water is a good idea, just so if you have issues in the castings, in troubleshooting, one of the variables can be eliminated (minerals in the water). I use regular tap water, and have never had issues. Doug

Hi. I add about 1.5 to 2oz powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of warm water and let dissolve in water. I let the water sit till it is room temperature. Then I use this water to mix with the investment powder.

Sometimes I do, but there are a couple of reasons I do not in a lot of cases. 1. I add several sprues to pieces and like to have the piece in my hand to really evaluate it. 2. Sometimes I like a wax sprue (or multiples) to release pressure from the "resin swell" that takes place.

That is a hard question, just the equipment to be able to cast can cost thousands of dollars. Taking the equipment out of the equation, the cost of investment, burnout, (electricity and/or gas) will be a constant, and whether you cost 1 piece or 20, that cost will be the same, so the more pieces you cast at one time, the better. Then the size of the piece will vary as well and affect the cost. For example, I would say the average size of a ring is 3-5 dwt (penny weight) and with silver at $25 per oz. ($1.25 per dwt) That would be $3.75 - $6.25 just in silver cost. Hope that helps.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thanks a lot for the answer your videos are great!

After the investment has cured for a minimum of 1.5 hours, place the flask in the oven, ramp up to 1350 Fahrenheit at about 15 degrees per minute and let it sit at that temp for 2 hours. Then drop to casting temp. (I usually use 1000 degrees.) and let it sit at that temp for 1 to 1.5 hours, depending on the flask size. Larger flasks take longer to "stabilize". Then cast.

Can you tell me sir the burn out such small flask in celsius.thanks a lot

Yes, I do that quite a bit.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Is there a reason why you sometimes do it and sometimes not, or was this just for showing extra techniques for the viewer?

@@Miketz Sometimes I am forward thinking enough to plan out the sprue configuration, but most times I just do it at the bench.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Cheers. I am preparing to do some jewellery casting in the near future and youtube is a good source of the "how", but not necessarily the "Why".

Check out sand casting.

Gianni, I am using about 38/100, and I add about 2 ounces of powdered boric acid to 1 gallon of water, pre-mixed, and let sit to room temp. Hope this helps.

You will need some kind of assistance to fill the pieces, either vacuum or centrifugal force or you will have a hard time getting the pieces to fill or show any kind of detail.

The resin burns out leaving a cavity, and molten metal is poured into the cavity to make the piece.

John, I will design the sprue in the design sometimes on smaller pieces, but there a couple of reasons I like to add them myself. 1 is because I "oversprue" resin pieces for casting, in other words, I will add 5-6 sprues at times to the piece, depending on the design. which helps with porosity and inclusions. The other reason is because of a philosophy I have about swelling of resin and having pressure releases during burnout..... I could be wrong, but it works for me. Doug

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk thank you

Definitely wax.

Whatever investment you are using should have mixture recommendations. I would start there.

It strengthens the investment.

Nice. it is one I have been using for 7 years. It is one of the free choices through Apple's iMovie.

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk interesting to know!

When the wax is melted away from the oven, the holes you are seeing are the negative spaces from the wax sprues that are attached to the pieces. Hope that makes sense.

Depends on the size of the flask, but I usually wait until the metal does not glow anymore. 10-20 minutes

@@DougNapierJewelryMonk Thank you!

@@andreimacarov6522 you are welcome.