Thanks! I've done my share of cans but never got good results, the alloy is all wrong. Thanks for watching and there's more to come!

@@PaulsGarage That's the best part, while all the other KZfaqrs were stuck on aluminum since they can just use cans, you were super smart to switch to zamak. Also one of the reasons why no one makes vacuum casting, they use aluminum so it always fails

Thank you! That's high praise!

​@@PaulsGarage Well-earned, I assure you!

Thank you! I've done it so much I'm just comfortable with it now. My one and only tip is to over-emote. The camera takes away 20% of your enthusiasm so really ham it up to compensate 👍

@@PaulsGarage Thanks! Great advice!

Thank you!

Thank you! I'm pretty happy with it

I'm trying to keep posting but life keeps getting in the way 🤣

that would be awesome! I could make a monkey set!

Thank you! The wallet is at great risk all the time around here, it seems like there is always "just one more" tool to take everything to the next level. The problem is the levels never stop coming 🤣

Thanks!

Unbelievably *good* I hope 🤣

@@PaulsGarageI really truly aspire to make something this cool! Got a sand casting kit and some scrap silver, made a ring on a lathe and cast it, it’s not perfect yet, need to re melt but it’s a start. I’m building a large furnace too for copper, aluminium, brass, bronze… I’ve got a keg and cut it in half, made some large stainless rings and welded them on. I need to buy materials now to get it running, when the budget allows 😂 I’m so excited by it all though

I didn't know that about vegetable glycerin, very interesting! That affitive sounds pretty interesting, do you know if it can burn out cleanly? Anything that leaves ashes causes problems with this process, but graphine is carbon, right?

@@PaulsGarage While it was intended to remain inside a more standard UV resin during print and curing, there's nothing in it that would hinder combustion. I have instructions I send out with the kits that some testing is necessary with respect to percentages that you can successfully run for different formulas/styles, but it's normally best to add 5ml at a time to a liter of resin, with the high end being 10-15ml in really thick, aggressive engineering resin formulas. The stuff is concentrated and I couldn't see the even smaller ratio per print being a problem. I can certainly do some testing with regards to flammability, but you're not likely going to end up getting the graphene part itself to a higher temperature than it took to create it (formation begins in my process at ~1800*C in stage 1 and only goes up from there). As I have to be able to ship it, I've reformulated it a few times to get away from substances that would qualify as hazmat, but I can recommend thinning agents you can use on your end if you'd like to enhance burnout also that won't affect its printability. Yes, the largest part of it is, how to say, atomically separated carbon. 😉

That would be awesome

I'd love to, still learning how to 3d model and design jewelry, though

just copy some cool looking file@@PaulsGarage

I was thinking the same thing!! If only I could go back and redo that

@@PaulsGarage Practice with zamak or even zinc.

If it cracks with blue it will probably crack with purple. Blue is supposedly designed for easier burnout. I have a bottle of blue here. I'll have to open it up and see how it works

You aren't the first person to mention difficulty spruing up resin prints. I haven't had an issue at all, so i have no idea what's going on. It seems like a common problem, though.

Thanks! Not sure if thats next but definitely soon

Good idea! I really need one of those vibratory polisher things to get Inside all the details too

Very few text interruptions, but each one had maximum impact 🤣

p.s. this will now be my goto video to share with people who need an easy to understand explanation of wtf i do haha :)

Thank you! I use blender and I intend to add decorative surfaces to parts, but that will mostly be sand cast which limits a little of what I can do there. What burnout schedule are you using?

@@PaulsGarage 0-150C asap 150 C- 3 hrs 150C - 700 asap 700C- 3 hrs drop to flask casting temp (e.g. 560C) for 90 mins to 2 hours depending on flask size.

That is a really good idea, I never would have thought of that

used to be an efficient drunk..

Hmm...even the gang at Belmont Metals haven't recommended using bismuth to combat shrink, but going from 1.2% to almost none would be mighty nice. How many grams would need to be added per pound or kilogram of the total melt?

@@justinchamberlin4195 I'm no metallurgist, so... I don't actually know.

I would worry about changing the properties of the metal too much. A tiny bit of the wrong metal can take a solid alloy and make it super brittle, for example. Worth a test, though. It might be great

@@PaulsGarage While you're at it, you should also look into metal matrix composites. It'd be interesting to find out if there are any that can be made at home.

Maybe it can strip oxygen from water.

its a low oxygen environment

Another commenter mentioned that vegetable glycerin is also a plasticizer for these resins, maybe it has something to do with it

Those sound like things that really need to be machined

na. well, probably. fdm/fff i have no issues. print whole gearboxes. run real well. resin always seems to warp. drives me bananas.

@amandahugankiss4110 oh yeah resin stuff does tend to warp worse than FDM for sure, I've noticed the same thing

I'm sorry I don't make parts as a service, but there are some companies that can do that. PCBway is one I think

also put your glycerine and models under vacuum to ditch extra bubbles

That's a good idea! The vacuum chamber, I really like my drill mixer 🤣

Why is that? I've only seen ethanol, ipa, and acetone suggested to use

@@PaulsGarage ultrasonic waves create fine vapor that can combust rather impressively if it consists of any kind of flammable fluid. There's a way to do it safely (look for a NASA paper on ultrasonic cleaning with parts bagged in alcohol from way back in 60ies) but I would not want to try it any other way. Best case you get the scare of your life when it spontaneously goes pop. Worst case are severe burns, concussion and hearing damage.

@@PaulsGarage it vaporizes a not insignificant amount so they say dont use anything flammable. but just some decent ventilation is enough to deal with that. i extract lions mane in 95% ethanol in an ultrasonic and have never had a problem.

This ultrasonic looks like it could be vapor tight as the lid seems to have a seal. The big advantage to using a separate container with the alcohol / part that you then put in the Ultrasonic full of water is that you need less alcohol that way.

​@@4o4o4at the end of the day it's just about air fuel mixtures.