I'm just impressed how clean the PLA prints look........

Awesome test, Michael!

Keep in mind that there is only 1 tooth in contact at any moment. The bigger the tooth, the stronger it is .The minimum for teeth interference is 13 teeth for small pignons. Depending on the needed gearbox size, you want to choose the biggest possible gear modulus that allow for at least 13 teeth. Bigger modulus = stronger teeth and bigger contact area. Also fit tolerances and surface finish induced by manufacturing process have less impact on bigger teeth. Your pignons look like they have about 20 teeth for 10mm in D, then I assume 0.5 modulus. SO you could choose a bigger modulus for the teeth. In this case 0.75modulus would be the best = 15 teeth would be WAY stronger of course outer ring will also have a reduced number of teeth, but you can keep you diameter and ratio.

Great video and thanks for the shoutout! I've been dealing with some of the weaknesses of resin prints lately in my own projects, it's great for a lot of things but for functional parts like gears, I definitely prefer FDM. Even if it's just PLA.

Did not expect that result, thanks for the video and experiment.

Thanks for sharing, great job and very interesting. I will be waiting your future publications

I’m new to your channel, but the last few videos I’ve watched have all been very informative and great quality. Thank you for sharing your work! Subscribed 👍

Thank you for existing!

The detailed testing is awesome, and your design is compact and elegant!

Great video and production value! Very happy KZfaq recommended this to me :) subscribed.

Much respect! I love these gear videos. Just saw the RV video. Looked at your video list and there is so much there I'm interested in. Great work! Sub earned by far

I'm looking to print a gearbox for my extruder, and am trying to decide between ASA or Resin, and here this video shows up. Then switching to a cyclic test with a cleverly designed setup for testing to stall torque was the icing on the cake! I know ASA is lower modulus than PLAs, but the modified PLAs are usually a little lower modulus. Thanks for this video, this was perfect for what I'm working on!

Great overview ! Excellent work !

Unexpected results! Nice video!!

Nice project, good design and nicely done video!

It is interesting how often they are coming out with new plastic alloys to make these products more robust. Resin looks great, it's just a matter of time until there are new processes out that bring it to a whole new level. Watching machines like the markforged get me all kinds of excited for the future tech.

Very nice video! From our experience, basic resins behave more like glass than plastic. The "ABS Like" and "Nylon Like" resins have shown us to have a little more mechanical resistance and flexibility. Although, as in all things, there are different qualities.

After you have introduced your printers this enthusiastic i hit the sub button!

Great work man and a fun test. Love the style and flow to your video, I can learn a thing or 2 from ya.

I did not expect that. I would have thought that the resin gearbox would be more durable. Great test. Thanks 👍

Hey, great stuff. I've actually designed my own compound planetary gearbox a while back for a 5010 outrunner bldc, but kind of gave up haha. I used lithium silicone grease and it worked great!

In Addition to the other suggestions: you UV cured the parts for 10min. My usual curing time lies around 5min. To much exposure will damage the integrity of the material and make it brittle

Great video recognising the durability of PLA over resin. Anything where there is any impact or other forces present (other than gravitational) looks like it’s better served by pla. It’s clearly the inelastic nature of resin makes it suitable only in non-stressed applications.

So one reason your resin appears to be as brittle as it is, is that you are absolutely baking your parts with UV. At 4:22 in the video you had the UV timer set for 10:00. That's about 7 to 9 minutes too long, i believe, depending on your resin and the individual part sizes. I've been printing UV resin for about 3 years now, thousands of parts, and i can tell you that curing time has a BIG impact on brittleness. My initial tabletop game pieces i cooked at about 15 minutes each. During a game session the board was accidentally tipped onto the floor. Of 12 parts, all 12 shattered. Some into seemingly individual resin molecules. My current go to resin for tabletop durability is Elegoo ABS (80%) mixed with Sirayatech Tenacious (20%). Parts are cured for 30 to 60 seconds per side. This results in an excellent mix of durability and flexibility for tabletop miniatures. Obviously, for planetary gears, you probably don't want something with much flex. However, you definitely don't want something that will shatter with shear force either. Recommend you experiment with your resins and curing times (A lot less than you showed) and see if you can dial in something better. All that said, i think even basic PLA will better in this application than even the best resin, although some of the Sirayatech resins may give that a run. PETG might be even better!

Thank you so much Michael!

Good old PLA for the win. Thanks!

Great comparisson. Thanks!

Thank you very much! I am trying to introduce this technology at my job and your video are perfect.

Great video and interesting results. I thought for sure the resin printer would be the winner here.

Solid video, really enjoyed it!

Nicely done with both your testing and the overall product! I've found PLA to be surprisingly quite durable in gearing :)

Very good and useful video!!

Probably already mentioned, but its common to mix flexible resin with standard resin to reduce the brittleness. It opens a whole can of worms though, and it really fair to only test and compare with over the counter products.

You need specific resins for industrial use like this, you could mix 2 resins as well to achieve strong but yet tough

Brilliant design

I've got a lot to learn still...thanks for this video.

I needed this video. Thank you!

Interesting results!

Could the WD40 be having an effect on the resin parts? It can make certain plastics brittle. Perhaps try a silicone grease.

ok, that was surprisingly unexpected! really nice comparison, I was completely sold on the SLA's strength and this was actually mind-blowing. Thank you very much, here's my like, my sub and why not, my gf as well.

Thanks for the video!

Subscribed. Thank you!

Really well done video.

amazing testing thank you

very good print quality

Great video. Thank you.

Thanks for you work Bro!

Man... SO COOL!

well done and thank you for the content!

You should try the resin gearbox with a resin that is 1:9 flexible to riding resin. I think it would help with the brittleness.

definitely worth a sub

Awesome channel!

For removing the resin prints from the print bed, I recommend getting an oil painters pallette knife. They're strong and flexible yet very thin. Easy to ease underneath a print. No hammering needed!

Wow looking foward to see difference stronger resin u test

Called it! Resin is harder and more brittle. Your results are exactly what I would expect! I've seen resin used for making near perfect molds for poly or rubber seals though... I'm sure it has its uses that go beyond what other prints could hope to do.

Creative video, thanks :)

well done! I think the reason for the failure is that the planets have a bearing support only at one end, and the other end is unsupported. this creates a twisting torque. the resin generally has less tensile strength than PLA, it is expected to fail earlier.

It's great stuff. Really interesting, it would be a research to do more.

You just earned yourself another bana... Damn it, subscriber. I meant to say subscriber. You rock, brotha.

Thats a great video! Congratulations for that. You could test this with a special resin, i know esun has its "hard-tough" one that seems to withstand a lot more.

As someone who is a novice to 3d printing and who has to overhaul the sturmey archer hub on his bike... this is super interesting! I look forward to the next version

Amazing

Finally someone who is using appropiate screws for plastic parts. There are way too many designs out there with machine screws and brass inserts or nuts

Good stuff. One thing you might try as well is printing the parts using one of the HP MJF (multijet fusion) services out there. I did that with my BLDC compound planetary gearbox and it's impressive. You could probably print these parts for about $10 using JLCPCB's new HP MJF service.

wonderful! appreciate

One thing to also take note it is it going to depend on the type of resin, or the type of FDM you use. Some are stronger than others. For example clear resin is known to be brittle. What you want is something like resione tough resin, siraya tech blu strong Resin, eSUN ABS-Like hard tough resin (a personal I use), then there's liqcreate tough-x that is designed for mechanical use. Theres also other brands but these I know and one I have used for more technical builds or things that may be taking a beating. Also the cure time can have a BIG impact on resin, I saw you are doing them for 9 minutes? That is a bit much and over curing can cause any resin to become britle or form micro cracks. Even with the resin I use if I forget it in its curing box and over cure even the best resin will have issues. 2-5 minutes is normally the go to, though clear resin will cure faster and should be in half that. The fact your print shows yellowing means it cured WAY to long. The cure time also depends on the strenght of the UV light, stronger lights like in those cure stations don't need to be that long while weaker lights may need a few minutes more. For example my manual curing chamber uses a set up with a 405NM uv light and I only cure my prints for 2 minutes at the most. One minute for any clear resin or it starts to yellow and form cracks. I don't know much about filiment printers as I've yet to get one, but I do know there's some that have metal mixed in that is really strong, and others like silk that are really brittle as well. So it really does depend on what you are using.

Niiiice. Great job

what a great video

Great test. I was just recently wondering how PLA would do against resin and this kind of long term test is really interesting.

Hi! Any interest in making a video detailing the design process on how to design the gears? These things fascinate me to no end, but i always find it a bit difficult to get into due to the fact that i don't know what tools or processes i should follow to make things such as this where you have teeth count and ratios and all that worked out in a small enclosure. This looks great and professional!

to make the gears last longer, try swapping the WD40 for some grease meant for plastic and when threading screws directly into plastic, tighten them by hand and before tightening, turn the screw counterclockwise until you feel it dropping into the already existing thread, so you don't run the risk of chasing new threades every time you screw it back together.

Cool video will print the gearhbox my own and trie to build a robotarm with it :)

was not expecting for pla to win

Whenever you start getting near the limits of a material how tough a material is (with toughness being defined in materials engineering term of "area under the stress strain curve") becomes very important and can be the difference in a few hundred cycles failure and how many tens or hundreds of thousands to failure. Gears generally should be tough but with good surface hardness. FDM vs SLA is similar. FDM material selection is generally tougher than SLA, though there are "tough" SLA materials -- they generally have terrible temperature resistance. This is also the PLA - PETG trade off. PETG people rave about it's strength but it's generally more brittle. Good work.

So many resins on the market and new ones coming out all the time. I feel we will soon be looking at FDM as a dinosaur once the better resins are developed. I'm in a group that uses resin molds for DIY plastic injection molding, so this particular use is already something FDM cannot achieve because of the high temperature plastics being injected.

Superb video! Thou would love to see the gearbox done with high end engineering resin with post uv curing.

I use both the Creality LD-002H and a Form2 printer. For structural parts like gear, the Formlabs resins out perform Creality by lengths ! I think the MSLA resins contain so much photo catalyst to make them react in the realatively weak UV light source, compared to a spot laser source as found then SLA Formlabs. Photo catalyst seems to make resin more brittle, but having said that, there are third party resin for Creality that come very close to the super expensive Formlabs resins.

cool ！ good to know that the FDM is stronger！

I would also add that if the PLA isn't holding up to move to PETG which in my experience is much more durable and long wearing. PLA tends to be brittle by comparison. As far as printing it isn't much different. Just mind the temps and it's just a smooth if not better.

You proved what I discovered already a while ago. Resin printing is great for toys, for high detail miniatures, and totally unsuitable for any kind of industrial design. On top of that, the so-called "tough" resin is just a bit rubberish so it's not brittle. But also unsuitable for mechanical parts. I tried and tried and tried, but finally gave up. I print my mechanical parts in ABS, as it is weather, sunlight and stress resistant, 0.1 mm layer hight if I need high detail. Never fails.

Sheer genius. 👍

If you could adjust your design a little, you could try using helical gears instead of spur gears. This would increase the surface area of the gear tooth interface and might distribute those forces more and reduce the risk of failure. They use helical gears in most automotive drive trains and are also supposed to reduce noise.

I would've liked to see if lubricating the resin would've extended the lifespan. With something like grease preferably. It was interesting to see the PLA last a lot longer. I have no experience in 3d printing so I don't know a ton. Thank you for the good content though!

I don't know precisely what it is you're talking about but it does seem to come out well.

Thank you. I can choose type of 3D printer.

Great video! Have you done backlash measurement on this gearbox?

Very cool test setup! Thank you for the video! Also, in some defense of resins...Which resins were used? Settings? So many variables can affect resin performance. Were they cured underwater? Heating the curing oven that you cure the finished parts in can significantly increase their tensile strength for many resins. It is a complicated sport. Happy printing! :)

Wowwwwwwwwww! THIS IS THE VIDEO I WAS LOOKING FOR!!!! I do have 2 FDM printers. I taught that gears would be way better in resin. At least, with the resin you used it's not a better option. Annnnnd, the FDM is still very capable (so I don't have to buy a sticky printer!!! Great cause I hate cleaning stuff!) Maybe with a very expensive super strength resin?

sweet finally a win for FDM. Its always about how resin is so great and so much better but its good to see that FDM still has a place is isnt out dated by resin.

You need a flexi build plate on that resin printer. Makes popping off big chunky prints so easy.

Great video, thanks. I like to think of resin as able to do what FDM can in optimal situations but clearly that simply is not the case, I don't know what else you could have done to help resin out there and it still lost by a lot.

That tiny chuckle when the resin gearbox failed made me just happy for some very odd reason.

A tip for stronger resin....add a little of flexible resin to your normal abs type resin. This will make it be closer to injection molding plastics. Good plastic has some give to it

This test was like comparing a Microscope and a Telescope for looking at the moon, ofcourse one will be better as the other was never designed for this. The resin used in most home printers is for fine detail printing, hense the reason most model makers prefer resin. If you want something to withstand mechanical stresses, the FDM printer will always be the better choice here.

Interesting.

It's a real shame that the entire resin print wasn't done in ELEGOO ABS-Like. That stuff is strong as hell.

Fdm ftw!

Is tough PLA the same as PLA + (Esun). great comparison! looked like alot of time spent. appreciate the hard work!

What resin were you using? The resin used apparently makes a much bigger difference than the material used in FDM (which, to be fair, already has quite big differences). I've seen resins range from "brittle like glass" to "pretty much slightly weaker ABS". So it would be really interesting which resins you used for your tests. Also: I didn't see any lubricant on the resin gearbox when you took it apart. To be fair, the lubricants I usually use are pretty much black, so maybe that gel stuff just can't be seen as easily.

I just printed a set of pulleys for my leather sewing machine. I used the Anycubic Photon M3. It is curing in the sun right now. I hope it holds up. I figure as a hobby leather worker i should not be putting extreme loads on it. Time will tell.