Thank you for the nice word, we're glad that you enjoy using our product. It is good to see actual use cases of our products!

I 3d printed a 90 degree elbow that directs air from my cold air intake towards my pod filter, printed in PTEG and been in a year so far, survived a couple of track days with no signs of heat damage

Man, I love this video. The information is absolutely amazing, I’ve subscribed and just going to look at all your other videos. Thank you for inspiring us!

Always great when I see a notification that you’ve posted! All the best from Canada!

Thanks for putting this video together, so much useful information. I've been thinking about making a CF Nylon intake for ages, but was worried about it's resistance to fuel, definitely cleared that one up! 🏁

I love what you're doing. Keep it up!

I appreciate this video is older now, but pretty much bought my first 3D printer on the back of it. Sovol SV06 plus. Already been very successful with some basic bits I needed for my car. Thank you for taking the time to make great videos, your channel is very under rated.

Awesome content as always man, love the can-do and engineering process attitude. My 3d printer has been so damn enabling for enclosures of custom PCBs, wiring, etc. on my car project. You've inspired me to start after using CF filament to make my own ITB setup. I think with some cut aluminum "sandwich" plates like you did for the blockoff it could be a real winner!

Absolute pinnacle of a channel. This content is worthy.

This video inspired me to start using 3D prints on my Rover SD1 project. It's like you say - once you've got the equipment, the know-how, and the confidence, every problem on earth starts to look like it's best solved with a 3D print. Especially stuff like interior trim, clips, and switch holders that are only available used and all very brittle by now.

Your testing and sharing with youtube is greatly appreciated. Keep it up!!!

I like your test. 6 months in fuel is tough. These are good videos, I came for the Speeduino but I like all the super effective low cost tips.

Amazing video! I'm a recent mechanical engineering graduate, but fairly new to the world of 3D printing and this video has been incredible at showing me the amazing possibilities out there and a feel for how to do things! Thank you! :D

Is there a filter in the velocity stacks? I've always wondered if they might crack and get sucked in but seems to be holding up nicely! Really neat.

This is a really useful video. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Good video.

Amazing video, so smart, congratulations!

Thank you for sharing this video! It was very informative!

I absolutly love this, so far I've only 3d printed brackets for sensors and hoses and etc. Im going to give that ASA filament a shot, because Ive been using abs.

I am a huge fan (like a sickening amount) of the Mini. Dream car since I was a kid. So this is so much happiness in one channel for me. I enjoy 3D printing and this has been a huge eye opener for me. I am building a Subaru Sambar at the moment and as with all Kei trucks, parts are hard to get in the US let alone the cheap little brackets and such. I'm still learning blender. I'm an audiovisual engineer by trade and work in CAD all day. Blender is far different and I'm struggling. I'm thankful for this channel and your willingness to share.

Great content, thanks for making the video! I've had my turbo'd first gen rx7 running a 3D printed "injector manifold" for close to a year now with nary an issue. It was definitely a huge step up from the prior blow-thru carb setup I had. One suggestion I would really emphasize is the use of proper compression limiters for any through-bolts. Regardless of whether the material is solid beneath it or not, the material will creep and eventually lead to a loose joint - nylons are especially prone to this. It's not the bolt that's coming loose, rather it's the material underneath it slowly moving and relieving the compression force. Heat-set compression limiters are a great option for this as well as the split collar style. Alternatively you can also cut some pipe that's the right size down to what you need. As far as materials go, I printed the injector manifold from NylonX and it's been doing great, although I'd be a little hesitant to print a full manifold from it. I've also got a lot of polycarbonate parts under the hood such as coil brackets and various other bits and bobs. ASA for engine top components makes me a little iffy, but as long as it's not touching the engine I suppose it's fine. With operating temps in the 80-90C range (or sometimes higher) that's getting a little close for comfort in my opinion. Fiber filled ASA, glass or otherwise, would probably be a great option however. Recently I've acquired a few other materials for an upcoming full manifold that I've been working on (same vehicle). eSUN ePAHT-CF and Essentium PPS-CF are the two materials I'm testing, although I have reservations about each. The PA doesn't have as good temperature resistance and is flammable, however the PPS is extremely rigid and not particularly tough with comparatively worse layer adhesion. I'd love to try some 3DXtech PPA-CF but unfortunately I can't hit the 90C recommended chamber temps (it has temperature resistance on par with PPS-CF; 220C continuous). The main concern about temps is that it's a turbo rotary engine, so the intake is mere inches from the turbo and exhaust. On an NA setup I'd be confident that even the ePAHT-CF would do fine. Anywho, thanks again for the video. Keep up the great content!

Thanks for this good video. Helps a ton

Awesome tips thank you

Interesting Recap and update on the parts

Great video, exactly what I was looking for.

Very inspirational! I am planning on doing a custom sized MAF barrel using PP-GF. I was originally going for CF Nylon but found out glass fiber added polypropylene would suit perfectly fo the purpose, it has sufficient ambient temperature limit (180C, far more than enough), it stores easily (hydrophobic), has good impact strength and phenomenal layer adhesion. This video cleared out some apprehension I had about making intake parts with 3d printing (I already did a flex fuel sensor but it doesn't involve bits easily ingested by the engine...)

Great follow-up information, thanks.

You were an inspiration for my project, I did the same thing as you. I made an adapter manifold to use 1000rr throttle bodies on my honda civic, made it with carbon fiber filled nylon and have had great results so far. Testing different stacks had been my favorite part so far and I'm looking forward to finding out how it holds up in the summer heat next season

Minding my own business and looking for something to play mindlessly in the background, up you pop and now I've got to stop working for 17 minutes, thanks! In the background my ender is humming away printing the first non WAD (Wood Aided Design) alternator relocation bracket for the 2.0 Duratec going into my hillclimb Micra....I've said it before, it's all your fault!

Thanks for sharing! Im so late to this party but im here for it!

I have used Winkle ASA and was very happy with it. I am now testing PCTG.. Printing mounts and accessories for my bikes

I ran an ABS printed cold air intake for a while and currently have fluid reservoir caps installed in the engine bay, for over a year holding up great!

I've got a 3d printed part under the hood. I designed a manually controlled and lockable Idle Air Control Valve for a import tuner car of mine and printed it out of PETG. It's held up great for a while now. The reason for making a manually controlled and lockable IAC was because this car doesn't have aftermarket camshafts available and I wanted it to have a slightly erratic idle like a camshaft could give it, and I noticed when the IAC was in a particular position it would have that erratic idle sound, so I made an IAC that I could be manually set to that exact position and then locked down so it can't move. It worked exactly as I'd hoped and now the car has that erratic idle sound like it's cammed!

Your info about printing ASA was really helpful. I'd read that ASA was a great choice for parts that would be subject to UV, but really hadn't found much yet about actual printing experiences.

Good to know the filament is fuel proof, thanks. 👍

Something I’m going to give a go is 3D printed moulds and then make some carbon fibre parts with carbon fibre cloth and the resin

Found that if I spiral wrap some sandpaper around a die grinder shaft or dremel tool, I can smooth the inside of the velocity stacks nicely. It worked well with taulman 910 but I have never used the CF nylon.

Thanks for more great info!

Found your channel yesterday and subbed after watching this vid :) you're doing some great work! I've got two FDM and two resin printers here, so may try making some bits for my projects 👍

Another great video. I've done an ABS intake "Dave Mod" for the Cooper S that has worked fine for 6 Cali summer months of torture and been working up to nylonX for the zetec throttle body trumpets and manifold. My intake trumpet and manifold are coming along nicely. My printer is cheap but with very similar upgrades to yours. (Tronxy5SA) but a couple of mods really matter: Insulated bed with glass wool, Glass bed plate with glue stick, fabric creality enclosure, 90 degree brackets on every corner to make it ~10X more rigid, z axis sync belt, Dry teflon powder z-axis lubrication, metal extruder, cheap ebay volcano-like all metal hot end, capricorn tube, upgraded harder nozzle, heatsinks on all the extruder motor and axis stepper motors for staying cool while doing long prints in the enclosure. An insulated sterilite box with re-usable dessicant bags for keeping the filament dehydrated. The Result is large print volume and reasonable prints even in ABS for a budget friendly price. Keep it up and we'll either be seeing some lost PLA home forged parts soon.

So far I have made a coolant overflow bottle holder out of PETG I need to make it a little thicker as it's cracked on an area I made it a little thinner and 15% infill. I've also made some wiring covers from TPU and replacement bulkhead connectors for my loom that aren't available anymore. TPU has worked much better than I expected. Keep up the good work

I have been using PLA to make prototype brake brackets. I find that making prototypes is quicker, easier and cheaper than machining aluminium multiple times. I have fitted 4 pot calipers to the rear of an abarth 500, 8 pot calipers to the front of a ford falcon and toyota camry, 6 pot calipers to the front of a ford falcon. I will be having a bash at an inlet manifold for a ford cleveland v8 in the coming months. Loving this channel, cheers!

Thanks for the follow up. I'm not surprised about the fuel resistance of the nylon. We use epoxy polayamide (nylon) primer inside the fuel tanks of aircraft.

Just found your channel! Great content so far! Looking forward to taking a look at your other videos. Thanks for confirming that it is a vauxhall engine in that mini, I recognised the rocker box cover from my old Nova, but couldn't fathom what it was doing in a mini! Now off to find out how air is metered using ITBs as there's no MAP sensor, and probably not going to be 4 MAFs.

Excellent content as always. I design automotive parts and use fdm/SLA to prototype then I send it out to be printed in MJF PA12 nylon as its strong/chemical resistant and the textured aesthetics just look great.

I think your theme of "3d printing car parts" has huge potential. Good luck with the channel.

Great vid! I'm planning to get a 3D printer to custom design a intake duct & filter. Hope to learn lots from your vids!

The ender 3 series is still one of the best. With so much aftermarket support these machines have extremely high performance potential at a relatively low initial cost.

Excellent vid 👌👍

Excellent video, thanks 👍🇬🇧

Great video! About to start diving into printing ASA parts for my C5 Corvette! I've been printing automotive parts with PETG, but I got really frustrated with it's poor printability, especially for larger parts. Excited to give ASA a shot!

Another solid tip for the slicing process is making your model out of separate components. Slicer has the ability to tailor the print settings for each individual component all in the same slicing file. So for instance the bolt holes mentioned earlier could be a separate piece that can be printed completely solid where as the rest of the model has different setting presumably for material savings. This also works for making you own more efficient print supports.

I guess the fortunate thing about it being an inlet is that it actively cools itself in use! Great video as always.

just discovered this channel. great video !

Thanks a lot! Have been printing a lot of airfilter housing inserts, designed soem mdos to house diffrent filter types and lids on OEM housings, but never got them to last more than a few months. Will defenitly be trying ASA instead of PETG!

Great vid! I am printing an intake to run a honda j35 in my 73 911.

Love too see you model up some trick 3D printed forged carbon fibre moulds.

I've had great experiences with eSun ABS, ASA and nylon.

Good stuff, as ever!👍

I printed the numbers for an old style numberplate out of asa, they look amazing and a year on still look the same!

fab content :)

Great video. I love 3D printing, especially for car parts. I only can recommend a Prusa instead of an Ender. I only had problems with the Ender, after buying the printing was fun again.

Cool video

I love this! I have 3d printed fiberglass molds for parts that turned out great but have been super hesitant on fuel and heat resistance... sounds like I'm buying some carbon nylon filament.

If anything has been under the hood for 2 years, would love an update. This is in consideration with making products with practical lifespans in daily-driven stuff, 5 years would be ideal as a bare minimum.

intresting video. I also printing parts for my supermoto track motorbike. I made some sliders and crash protection. Great channel you have.

Certified hood classic

Nylon X ! That’s all I use! Super Strong

I had an E3dv6, and others. It was good, but not a huge improvement for me (at least). I then got the Hemera and it was a big leap ahead. If you’re ever in the position where you’re consider that, it was worth it (in my opinion).

I 3D print a whole bunch of parts for JZA80 Supras. All interior parts though, but coming up with some non-stressed parts for under the bonnet now. Usually use carbon-fibre infused PET filament which can be a pain to print, but when you nail it, it's tough as hell.

We switched from FF ApolloX to Filamentive ASA - mainly because Filamentive are UK based and deliver next day. The printing profile is identical and we've had no issues with warping or strength / impact charateristics. We also found FF filaments to be extremely dusty, needing filament filters before the extruder, FF never responded to our concerns and Filamentive seems to be much cleaner.

3D printed my own reversing camera and rear num plate light and twist lock for indicator bulbs on my morette headlights for my Escort. Just using abs. I tried ASA but didn't have much luck

Another great video loads of information. I don't know if you've been watching Two stroke surfing or not, but he's probably a couple of steps farther along than you are at the moment. And has had to solve similar problems to you like crush distortion on flanges caused by trying to get enough clamping pressure to seal ( ( he's building a home made, home designed 2 stroke 50cc nitro supercharged engine to take back his land speed record at Bonneville )

HELL YEAH MORE MODELING

Awesome video. I have several 3D printed parts on my race car but only print in PLA so far so they only hold non critical stuff in low heat, or no heat environments. Funny enough, I made a bracket almost exactly like the one you made for your fuel pump to hold my fuel filter.

fantastic

I have about 80 printed parts on my vw Brasilia, mostly remixed trim pieces, some of them, like my led tail lights are on my channel, but i'm waiting until my speeduino conversion is done to make a video showing all of them. Hopefully on the next pair of months! For the manifold nuts, you can try to use fiberglass washers under them, rc cars from tamiya have those on their motors to stop heat from melting their plastic gearboxes.

Could not agree more, my ender 3 has thought me alot about 3D printing and it pitfalls. Cool so see that you able to make such high end components with exotic filaments on yours!

Printed a holder for a throttle-position sensor, that fit to my 45 DCOE Webers, last year. Still going strong!

I made an engine swap on my motorbike and use abs printed engine mounting plates for fit test before make some out of steel or aluminum. If you don't have drawings and measurements are hard to get because of space or in my case unknown final position, printing indicator plates and measure against them helps to get a perfect fit. I also printed some small brakeds, jigs and fixtures. Any experience with abs velocity stacks? I really enjoyed the 3 episodes of bringing the itb's in your mini. You are doing a great job!

I'm about to try out ASA. I've used ABS in the past, it was a pain in the butt even with an enclosure. If you can print ASA in open air then I'm excited.

i got a 3d printed (ASA) adapter to remove the AFM on my 1.6 miata. With the coid air intake i'm running the adapter sits right between the engine and the radiator and it still fine after one year. I didn't print it but i did design it and got it printed with one of the web services

3dxtech makes some really nice Asa they also have some color selection

3dxtech CFR ASA is really good. I have several printed parts on my 99 4runner.

Just found your channel, some awesome stuff!! Subbed! I'm getting into 3D printing because I'm doing some wacky stuff with a Jeep 258. Do you happen to have a vid on how you figured out your Velocity Stack height/tuning?

I've not used ASA before. Looks like I should give it a try. I just made a new under hood fuse box cover for my Barchetta using PETG because of concerns about the temperature in the engine compartment. So far it's holding up well. Regarding the use of carbon, I've always been skeptical given that it gets it's strength from the long strands and tends to be chopped into tiny bits when in a filament. Right now I'm experimenting with using a 3d scanner for modeling. So far the results have been a bit dicey.

I used to work for a company that made aerospace and military gaskets, the gaskets could easily be deformed to the point of damage. A common solution is to add compression stops. Calculate the percentage of compresssion required, this gives you a figure for the thickness of the compression stop. These can simply be metal tubes cut to the compressed thickness required, or washers. CNCKitchen might have some figures for compression % without damage.

Hi, thank you for all the good content you provide - you inspired me to buy an ender max to make my own car parts and prototypes. I just finished prototyping alternator pulley - to test fit before turning an alloy one and i actually was thinking if you ever tested nylon carbon fiber filament in such application? In theory it seems to be super strong - what worries mi is the abrasive/temp action when the belt is leaving / entering the pulley. Any thoughts?

Hi MfM. Just happened upon your channel, I've been dyno testing different sized ITBs on my 2276cc vw beetle. From 36mm up to 48mm... but now I'm playing with trumpets and only have 2 sizes in aluminium. So I'm going to print some. But I'm a complete noob wrt 3d printing.

I’ve 3d printed map sensor take offs and pair valve planks on my race bike with mixed results. Mainly used PETG and it wasn’t great in compression with c.100C heat and the fatigue strength of the map sensor take off was poor. Still cheaper than getting stuff CNC’d but in think I’ll be using laser cutting as much as possible in the future, end user parts on cars are one thing but bikes are another matter that need an extra factor of safety

I'm wondering if the carbon fibre nylon filament will be suitable to print a adapter to hold a brushless pump in my intank swirl pot and a new top hat for the tank as well 🤔

3D printed parts under hood are definitely something I fancy doing. Lol

good stuff. the manifold braces are great but you forgot to add the dimples using your 3d printed dimple die..

Blue Box Goblin sell some great ASA from a Polish company. They also do an excellent PA12CF

I use Priline Carbon fiber polycarbonate for a lot of my prints under the hood. I may try this carbon fiber nylon sometime. My Priline filament works great as long as it is not in the valley between the two heads of my Toyota 5MGE engine. I tried printing spark plug wire guides with 100% infill and the one in the valley ended up warping badly. It does get VERY hot there.

Pack your parts in cornstarch and anneal them slowly heat and slowly cool in a oven. Also you might want to try some carbon fiber polycarbonate. I find it better than the sain smart for layer adhesion.

I'm doing this on my triumph gt6 as manifolds just aren't available that'll clear the bonnet. Hoping that the temperature is OK as the engine isn't a crossflow and exhaust manifold bolts on right beneath the inlet. Exh & Inl Flanges actually touch each other.

I have been working on constantly varying length v/stacks for a 1uzfe

12:23 Another way to reinforce the bolt holes would be to use a brass insert and washer. Would probably spread the clamping load nicely

Make an sheet metal frame that goes over all bolts on the manifold to create an even clamping pressure all around. And use springs under the bolt heads.

I've been looking into buying the Proforge 3 to move into Polycarbonate glass filled filaments. I'm kinda maxed out on what I can do with my Ender 3 and I'm at the point where I'd like to try to print things like intake manifolds (although I don't know the first thing about designing one yet) I'm just scared to trust nylon for it.