Glad to have been able to give an explanation to the solution you found 😁👍

@patwood7745 Haha, I can imagine! Really glad the video recommendation is what you were after 😁 Hope this will be useful for the next two years now 😉

That's cool. I do talk about the scale changes at the end so people can do the same as well. The video is more about understanding the issue.

Agreed, I followed a tutorial (I think one by Maker Tales, he has a few now.) on how to set the view and scaling to mm for precision modelling and never had any issues with clipping or weird rounding during booleans and certainly never had to mess with scale during or after exporting. Oh, I have one tip for people setting up their default view: I added 2 wireframe boxes in a separate collection. Each one is the build volume of my printer; one for my Mars, one for my Neptune. I then set them to hidden and save my default view file. It means I can very quickly check that models will fit in the build area and give a IRL scale reference. It does make it doubly important to tick the "Selection only" when exporting though or you just get a big block. Adding another mesh for scale comparison for a 28mm mini might be handy too, there have been times when I've spent a long time adding detail for it to be too small to even print, let alone be noticeable once printed.

@@ArtisansofVaul I'll also just take a moment to thank you all these videos though :) I started trying to pickup blender a couple of weeks back and so many tutorials have them using tools without saying how they activated it, using addons without saying what the addon is, using menus that appear different due to addons etc... Your videos are not only the exact subject I want to use Blender for, but you also never use a tool without naming it and saying how to activate it, never use an addon without saying what it is and where to get it etc.. I actually feel pretty confident in Blender now and it's entirely due to the videos you made. So... many thanks :)

@@SkonkBot Thanks so much dude. That's really nice of you to say.

@@MartinJamesLittle I'm hoping to do a little something that you might find interesting about this suggestion. I had the idea watching a video on something else and thought it might be applicable for 3D printing design. I just need to check if it works.

😂😂😂Thanks Jeff. Glad it's solved a lot of issues. I found exactly the same, which is why I felt is was a good topic to cover. 😁👍🏻

My pleasure Tessa, great to have been able to help 😁

No worries at all. It took some trial and error to work out for sure including some test printing to be certain. But I thought it was useful knowledge to pass on.

Glad people see finding this helpful and saving them time 👍🏻

My pleasure 😁 It does seem a bit odd when it starts relating them to other programs.

👍🏻 Cheers man. Happy it's helping out with some good info 😁

​@@ArtisansofVaul haha i tried using mm a few times but always had issues. Using M for mm is a great fix. Thanks again!

I'm glad to hear you don't have any issues with it and Blender has apparently done things recently to help with it. So the issue with the scale definetly happens in 3D builder and its such a helpful tool to give a mesh a final check I pretty much always throw everything into it first. It can be overcome in a variety of ways but this just tends to be easiest/more reliable. But if you don't experience it as an issue then no need to change anything😉👍🏻

@@ArtisansofVaul I will keep that in mind. I find that PrusaSlicer can send the model to autodesk to fix it without having to have yet another set to it, so I haven't needed it. But it's good to know it's there. Maybe it is newer versions of blender after all, too. Oh, I also tend to save my STLs as ASCII. I wonder if that makes a difference.

@darrennew8211 That's interesting. Never tried saving them in a different format so that's a nice idea.

My pleasure man. Glad I could help 😁

👍🏻 Glad I could help.

My pleasure chuck. I was something I had found quite annoying so having tested quite a bit I thought it would be good to share 😁👍🏻

My pleasure. Glad to be able to help with what can be a quite annoying problem.

I'd be really interested to hear how that turns out for you. I don't have experience with CNC machines/software so it would be good to know if anyone else asks.

@@ArtisansofVaul No worries, I'll let you know how it goes. Am working on a few on-going projects at the moment, but I'll give it a test on the next new one.

@@ArtisansofVaul Just an update... I've now switched over to using 'none' as the scene units for all my projects which will be machined on a CNC machine. It has greatly simplified import and export of objects, as well as jumping between Blender and 3DCoat. Great tip. I'm glad I watched your video.

@@DerekGoveDesign Thanks so much for coming back and letting us know how that went. Really glad its gone so well and is helping 😁

😁 Glad to be able to help out 👌🏼

No problem 😁

🤣

Thanks for coming back. Great points and I don't know enough about rendering to have commented so thanks so much for the insight. Cool to hear about your scale experiments and thanks for coming back with the results 😁👌

@@ArtisansofVaul Thanks! After some testing, the Blender unit scale feature just divides the units it shows you internally, so while you create a cube and it comes out by default as 2mm, and shows as 2mm, it's exported and treated with all the camera clipping issues just like if you set units to meters and typed in 0.002. Importing into Lychee still makes it 1000 times too small. I found you could export by a factor of 1000 in the STL export option to fix the import issues in slicers, but that doesn't solve the other issues with blender operating at such small units.

Thanks.

Haha. Trust me, I wish someone else had made it 2-3 years ago. It would have saved me a lot of time 🤣

No problem Jay. Glad it helped 😁

Glad I could help 😁 To be honest I always ignore the zero faces as it just means they are really small almost all of the time.

@@ArtisansofVaul oh really, that's great to know. Thanks for the heads up! 😃

My pleasure. I mean you can do it any way you want if you're willing to do the mental maths but I find this easier.

I'd be happy to. I thought there were a lot of tutorials on that but I'd be happy to ifnits what people want.

Thanks so much 😁

Cheers and glad its useful!

👍🏻 Hopefully this has helped in that case

Hmm.... I may need to see the file but when you export the STL have you got the "Apply Modifiers" box ticked?

@EPeltzer I think the issue is that while 90% change the units they are not changing them to the same thing 😅 So it makes changing the default a change that maybe helps 10% of people only to annoy the 10% of people that weren't changing it 😆 Also as shown here the Blender units are very adaptable so I'd be very disappointed if they went away

Yeah I did that too. I'm definitely going to be sticking to the Blender Units method for a while to see how it works out.

No problem. Cheers for taking the time to watch and comment.

Hmm.... That's tough, I'm not sure if there might be a way of doing that in the render settings to control the size of the image created. Personally I'd bodge it and bring the image into a program where I can draw something that's exactly (for example) 10mm and then match the image to that. You can do that even in Microsoft Word. But it isn't exactly perfectly precise.

I had totally forgotten to mention that. Really good point, thanks for mentioning it 👍🏻

Yeah. This can be avoided by playing around with lots of settings bit hopefully this helps explain the issue.

@@lajoyalobos2009 😅👍🏻 Agreed.

Hmm.... that's very odd. Thag shouldn't be the case if you have none. For example mine shows up as "2".

@@ArtisansofVaul woow that a quick reply ! awesome ..! thank you sir ! well at least i can always do like you show at the end of the video ..exporting stl file and transforme scale , it work very well to. haha !

@LUMINAK No problem at all. I'm just frustrated I can't offer more help. Maybe save the file and then come back into it to see if that works (though you shouldn't have to do that). Hopefully you find a way to sort it.

@@ArtisansofVaul I understand , no worries mate ! :) very appreciated ,keep up the good work ! subscribed ! you got a lot of very useful tutorial for blender ! mostly for hard surface modeling . I am very good at organic sculpting ! also new to sculpting but, i got lot of potential . hmm i would like to share a picture ...you wont be disappointed . haha !

@@TheLuminak Please do! Sculpting is something I need to work on. It's probably easiest to find me on something like Instagram for sharing pictures.

Probably not. Some programs will handle it ok, others won't. So it depends what you're using.

I'm using Blender, I had to think about it for a minute, my work space set to open at mm at .001 I think that is the answer to my question.

Is that because you have changed an existing file instead of starting from scratch? If it is, you could try making a new file set to no scale, then copy and past the object you want into this new file. I cant say I have ever had this issue but I did make my change over at the start of the file/design.

Yeah it’s a stl file I bought from esty and I’m tryna plug the file in and cut half of the of the print so it can print on my 3d printer properly

@@ArtisansofVaul I’ll add the helmet and it says it’s there but nothing will show on my end

@@IggyTheLighskinWonder is it in the object outliner?

@@ArtisansofVaul is that a certain setting?

🤣 I think you might have missed the point of the video. You're completely right in that you can think of them however you want. But as a focus on 3D printing there is very specifically a way other computer software interprets the information Blender puts out in say an exported STL file. And that does give Blender units a real world unit. And if you're 3D printing that's very important as it saves you work/time/annoyance. Have you 3D printed from Blender created files?

Thankyou for watching 😁

You can disagree all you want but did you even watch the video? I use the free versions of both lychee and chitubox interchangeably and in terms of import scale, they are both perfectly fine taking my items that are designed in blender (in "meters" that I think of as millimeters) and they import them, again as as shown in the video, at 100% scale and they measure correctly in mm and print correctly in mm when checked with my digital calipers. Sorry you think the most widely used and easily accessible slicer programs are bad? Which one do you use, you failed to mention. It is also worth noting that if you really are hung up on what the made up unit number says in blender, a third way to make it work in most other normal slicers that everyone uses that take a "1 unit" and consider it a mm is by going into the Scene Properties tab, going into Unit System settings and then under where it shows Metric selected, you can also change the unit scale there as well to show 0.001 and then set that as your default start up as you would with any other preferred settings. But quite frankly as most slicer softwares I am aware of are seeing STL file numerical units and reading them as mm, there is going to be an issue if you do not use the same default numerical value Blender has called "meters" if you're not adjusting your Blender unit scale.

I'm glad you haven't had any of these issues but I (and others is seems from the comments and various forums) do. Do you also find your physics simulations working well as that's another issue I forgot to mention? I'm curious what slicer you use? As shown in the video I use Lychee but I'm always happy to hear about different programs to try. And yeah, the Anycubic slicer is horrible (though I haven't used it in years at this point to know if it's changed).