Glad you recovered

@@teklisbenzi No, in serial connections the current will stay 1.5 amp, but in parallel will divide to the batteries. Thanks

what i lovely comment to respond to on a sunday morning, god bless the flux the solder and the heat, amen. hi, it surely looks like those are cold joints... i think it's mostly the lack of shininess and the state of that soldering tip. his iron is quite hot. nothing wrong with that if the user can manage to be in and out as quick as possible as less heat is transferred to the leads/components what way... and this guy moves kind of fast... he doesn't burn the insulation either, and holds the wires by hand. it just proves that hot heat and short duration is alright. about the cold solder joints, i believe it's not really the case after i watched a few joints in slow motion: the solder flows and wets everything, one can clearly see how the solder changes color as it solidifies. maybe a bit more flux would help to make them shiner and smoother or it may be that he's using lead free solder, that's always dull and it might appear as cold joints compared to 60/40 lead solder... (like @2:53, set playback speed to x0.25. or 2:58, 4:18 shows how long it takes the solder to solidify, the joints are in fact fully melted). that soldering tip though is truly something else :) the guy clearly doesn't have access to what we'd wish he had so he's working w/ whatever he has available. it could look more refined for sure, but those are not failed joints.. that being said, again, that tip is something else :). i've head limited equipment growing up and i remember the irons getting extra hot. that degrades the tips, it;s hard to keep them shiny. it burns the flux real quick. sometimes one little spot remains clean and the rest of the tip builds up like an insulator layer of oxide... anyways, i quickly understood that a clean tip is desirable and it's not that difficult to improvise one. the temp can be somewhat controlled by how deep the tip is pushed into the heating capsule. i've made copper ones for irons and guns, they don't wear out as fast as ppl believe.. especially if you gently hammer the copper. that strengthens it considerably to the point that it becomes difficult to bend, it starts to become brittle. brittle means it's "hardened", it resists wear much better. copper needs to be reheated red hot to become malleable again. they call it copper annealing, it's fascinating kzfaq.info/get/bejne/adCDrZRi0eCcfXU.html (an iron coated one is more durable) i've grown up and i have a soldering iron collection. my fav are old school Weller and Ungar if you're familiar w/ what was used in the 70s in US. the professional ones came w/ modular heaters and tips. that's how they used to select the soldering temperature, highly precise and stable, super reliable too... they still work after 50yrs. google "ungar 7760 heating element" for example, great looking soldering irons. some can get 900F and stay there on just 35W, so great engineered for efficiency too plus comfort as the handles don't get unpleasantly hot w/ prolonged use. the tips are also temperature matched, mass, shape, coating and alloy.. on the Ungar 777 (named the princess :) ), it takes 18W to get to 850F, ~450C. it doesn't stay there on larger joints thought as the thermal mass is small and the heater is not fast enough. those were the professional model for electronic female workers, for super finesse work, precise tips, super light and comfy even by today's standards... that was sunday sermon, blessed be the electron, wish you all, all the best.

@@duroxkilo on a comment I made on a random video 3 yrs ago... Thanks for the info I guess!

@@NienteNessuno no disrespect intended, wish you all the best

@@duroxkilo Nobody will ever stop to learn! Thanks for the suggestions!

@@NienteNessuno my pleasure.. just to repeat, a soldering tip can be made out of thick enough copper wire. it needs to be gently hammered (no need to deform it, even a wood hammer works) to make it stronger. you can make a collection of tips of different shapes for different applications. tips can also be bent for easier access in tight spaces. by adjusting how much the tip is inserted in the soldering iron, the temperature of the tip can be controlled somewhat. wish you all the best.

You can use only one of this board. If I right understand, you want to connect the cells 3s2p. This BMS should feed up to 20A (dont try it! :D), so it should work without problem ;)

Hi

Hi

👌

you connecting the same in and output pin socket

Can you help me on this kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ldh7hsyDu7bMdps.html

yes, same jack for input(charge) and output(load)

@@powergen522 but sir, will it CUTOFF load voltage automatically as a battery deep discharge protection?? Please reply

12v adapter

yes input voltage and output voltage have same line

For balance this thin wire is fine but charging and discharging this is unacceptable so please use 16 awg or 18 awg at least.

also in discharging.. do you know how to manage it?

no need

Да, Ставил себе на шуруповёрт - работает.

yes you can use

10 amperios

Wrong connection

@@elektronikaelektro8008 i did it Just as in the video

@@ingmar0385 maybe BMD not working... Short circuit maybe?

@@elektronikaelektro8008 i have tried several BMS, maybe bad battery

First full checking the bms board good condition or not, Second checking the every battery voltage minimum 3.2v needed, Third (12v -12.6v) input voltage for bms board, Fourth- 10Ah battery packs- 2A charging current need, 20Ah- 4A, 30Ah-6A.........

same way you charged it

Maximum 8.4v

Me either, did u know why?

Hola Rodriguez veo que nadie responde...tienes la misma inquietud mía y te cuento que si puede servir pero el tema es el tiempo de respuesta en la carga de las baterias ya que por el modulo MT3608 solo maneja 1 amperio y siendo 3 baterias ya te imaginas la demora

yes

@@powergen522 awesome thank you. Now I dont need a reducer.

but should be input voltage exist 4.2v and don't use above 4.2v bacause of module demage

@@powergen522 so I couldn't use 12v input like in the video and pull 12v and 4.2v to power 2 separate components?

6s BMS board, www.amazon.in/ELECTROPRIME-Protection-Balance-Lithium-Battery/dp/B07XWM43V3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=DZUQ0HAJ3Y8H&keywords=6s+bms+protection+board&qid=1583805727&sprefix=6s+bms%2Caps%2C343&sr=8-2

@@powergen522 thank you so much but it is 20A bms is it will be a problem ?

A charger is required when the battery is 9.6 volts, because of single cell battery voltage maintain 3.2v so battery lifetime extend

@@powergen522 i made 3s ion battery. Maximum voltage after charge 11.8.. its 3.7v. So i gonna charge it 11.1?

10S2P? You could cut it into 3 sections, a 3S2P, a 3S2P, and a 4S2P. 4S2P can be used if you have devices that cope well with the higher voltage range

Да, Ставил себе на шуруповёрт - работает.

should be given 12.6v input charging for BMS board, 12v not enough,

@@powergen522 I had more then 12.0V, first I had 12.7, later I tried at >14V and result the same (4.2V + 4.2V + 4V = 12.4V ) I changed last cell, and the same, at 4.0V cutted off charging. Maybe wrong reference at BMS board from manufacturer.

As I understand the bms does not have the load balancing function, so they have different tension at the end of the process.

No bro