Thanks brother! Should I finish off the look with a set of cab lights?

@@old509cc2 yes sir you should

I need one

I dream of the cummins r2.8 in my 92 Bronco. That and one of the ovrlnd camper shells

Did you swap it? How hard was it want to swap my f150 with it

@@jacksonworlock I have not swapped it yet. I probably won’t be able to swap it for a couple of years but it is definitely going to happen. Right now though I’m working on get some 05-07 f250 axles to stick under it for better suspension and higher tow capacity. Plus solid axle for if and when I want to go crawling. But within the next 5 years I will have my truck completely swapped and ready to go

No 4bt in a fuckin bronco unless it’s a bronco 2 get a 6bt it will fit fine

Go with a 6

Swap a 460 in there!

Swap in a Mercedes diesel.

M5ODR2 is the trans. Early 2000’s F150 The engine had a ford driveline in its previous life so the flywheel abs adapter plate were already on.

@@old509cc2How has the M5R2 handled the torque? I know they weren’t even used in the 351w application that makes far less toque lol. I’m very interested

First video comment: M5ODR2 is the trans. Early 2000’s F150 The engine had a ford driveline in its previous life so the flywheel and adapter plate were already on. If you want 4wd, get a 4wd m5odr2 as it has a different output shaft and tailhousing. Bw4406 that comes on these trans in the f1&250’s. SBF-small block ford- adaptor housing and flywheel will likely be found together if you buy it them used. Or you may find an adaptor from a conversion parts maker. Housing has 3912601 in casting. The Flywheel rubbed on something in its lifetime and now the numbers are mostly illegible.

:D Goose here, check out the first one I put up on the truck. Shoot me an email and I can update you on what else has been done to it since. Old509cc@gmail

What's your 87 look like? I'm obsessed with first gen rangers

12v to the pump and wire up the alternator and any original sensors you want working. The cumputer is still there for the dash. Pull any light bulbs you don’t want to see on all the time.

I installed a fluid damper during some downtime and noticed an audible decrease in vibrations. I have not switched back and drove it again to do a back to back comparison.

Checkout my first video on the truck there’s some walk around info on it. Some parts have changed since then, and I have AC now with off the shelf parts. The trans is tight around the bellhousing, some of the pinch weld around there had to be cut for bolt access. 3” body lift and #4 valve cover just barely sneaks off. Motor mounts are tight, not the lost serviceable but not terrible. So overall it does work, just takes some work to get it sitting in the right spot and have to often take a few extra parts off to get at what you’re after.

The big brother of the ranger tranny. F150/250 M5OD-R2 Moutns we’re redone with the farmstrong modified to fit the passenger side. Drivers has to be custom unless you run hydroboost and no vacuum pump.

3” body lift. Everything else was built around where the engine sits.

Hahaha she doesn’t somersault! Front scaled at 2680 and the rear was 2160 with 3/4 tank and my usual stuff in the bed. Drives really nice and I haven’t even added weight in the back in winter.

@@old509cc2 If you watch rock crawling videos from Moab , you will see people doing backwards roll overs on the regular .

Oh I believe that! With how tall and heavy these engines are, I hear they’re not much a benefit for trail rigs. No worries for me in that regard, I just use the truck for daily duty and hauling atv’s.

@@Shadowband72 got a link? or what to search? im building a jeep with a 4bt and would rather not roll it. that was the problem with the short nose and the buick v6. i have a cj6 though that im stretching even more. should help some

How did you make your factory gages work? I am using a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT. Well worth is as you can adjust it with your phone instead of clicking through options with the buttons. I have mine buried in my dash to keep the wires short and tidy. Get the flywheel gear sensor too, it’s not worth modifying the alternator if you end up like me and are on the third one. They recently switched to a new red anodized body, I think it’s actually the same as sensors Motion Raceworks sells. For the tach: The flywheel pickup sensor has terminals on the brain box, hook them up and the output goes to the tab and yellow wire on the gauge cluster plug, If memory serves. Also at the gauge cluster, splice in and route the speedometer signal wire to the brain box where you can correct the signal for any changes in the drivetrain. Then output from the brain box goes back to the gauge cluster plug. You can put the dummy oil sensor from the original engine in a port on the filter housing, or in place of one of the plugs on the drivers side of the block, just below the tappet cover. The water temp was the red and white wire for me, on the original 4 banger, I also reused that sensor for the stock gauge. The other sensor is likely for the ecm and can be discarded. Alright awesome thanks for getting back to me! That helps a lot!! So I understand you’re using the M50D R2? That’s what I plan on using. Just so it’s clear, you ran the VSS on that trans to the SGI-100BT and then to the cluster? Then adjusted as needed? I am not using the f150 trans sensor. There is a vss on the explorer axle, like the ranger, which I am using for speed signal. So basically with either the axle vss, or a trans vss with the gear, the wiring below feeds the pcm and then you just interrupt and correct the signal at the gauge cluster.

Yeah but the little VW doesn’t make the torque a Cummins has. I love VW TDIs and they a great for some applications but these applications are different. The Cummins was built for trucks can pull a house and get 20 mpgs all day and not fatigue more than normal wear and tear. A VW TDI is designed for 50 mpgs low load in a small car. Yeah you can build em up to get a lot of horsepower but the smaller engine will have lacking characteristics you want for the truck.

@@kona5853 It weighs less than the average car (with a normal weight engine in it), it's not an F350. It doesn't need 450 lb-ft of torque to go with 225hp (assuming it's built) and it definitely doesn't need a 700lb boat anchor sitting in the nose to deliver those numbers. If you could read, you'd see that I said "similar or more torque" which is the factual case of the TDI, along with being literally half the weight of the 4bt. For a Ranger, there are no downsides, it's an even easier swap and is more compatible with the platform due to existing kits and adapters.

VW tdis are good. But not that good. You wanna build it to 300 Hp VW tdi price tag is a big factor and so is durability. It will never be as durable as a truck engine under any load. The vw will not have more torque than the Cummins at the valued price point of a 300hp tdi. At the same time this is apples and oranges. VW tdis are for cars fuel economy not truck utility, it would work in this application but there is still a trade off. If weight is all your worried about the b3.3 can be done up, it’s 250 lbs lighter shorter deck shorter stroke better, rpm range and better fuel economy. An example a good load for this ranger would be 600 lbs sand in the bed an trailer with a garden tractor weighing in about 2800 lbs. VW won’t tolerate that, it will be overworking extra wear on entire engine. 4bt will taking this as a day heavier day stroll with very little extra wear. Fuel economy for 300hp VW will likely be maybe 20 mpgs. 4bt 18 mpgs.

There wasn’t room for the Farmstrong engine mount on the drivers side. So that side has a fluid filled Anchor brand. I would like the vibes to be less when I’m foot to the floor, it has a cab vibration drone. I’m guessing this is just inherent of the whole setup, manual trans, crank pulley etc. otherwise it has a little buzz in the floor and you can hear the engine, but nothing that drives even me crazy. All of the rattles a cab squeaks are fixed so it’s not annoying. Maybe the next one (4wd) will get the whole 9 yards thrown at it. Hydroboost, farmstrong mounts, Fluid damper.

@@old509cc2 thanks for the quick response! I’m contemplating doing a 4bt swap so just getting info on things. My Jeep’s 4.0 is a beast but I like the idea and simplicity of the Cummins. Plus you know, torque. Lol

If you already have power to play with, it may be very expensive to match that power and response with a 4bt. I think their biggest perks while living the single turbo life is MPG and towing capability. Once you want to play with the big boys and build the engine for crazy compound boost you’re deep in your wallet. If I would do that myself, I would need at the least a stronger trans. That kind of fun would be best for a clean clean body that will last the rest of your days.

Dakota digital diesel tach convertor. Can use alternator or a flywheel pickup. Ran ring gear spedo signal through the box to correct for tire size.

Believe me I have thought about it. Maybe the next one, boxed frame, 4wd solid axle, nv4500 or another stronger trans, super hx30....I will spend the 1-1.5k for an exhaust brake. This one all things considered just isn’t worth the money and valvetrain wear.

I have an engine for sale here in Central Kentucky. ‘98 4BT... $2,000.

@@warrenmcelroy4718 is complete and what gind of injection pump thks

@@JohnSmith-qj4cf yeah it’s a complete, running engine, came out of a ‘98 Case SkidSteer. Was running great when we took it out and scrapped the SkidLoader. Still has the big bellhousing attached to it so it weighs about 950lbs as it sits right now. Sadly it doesn’t have a P-Pump or A rotary pump, it has the inline Bosch A-Pump. Some people do run the A-Pump on the road, they say it just takes some time to get the hang of it because they add fuel on their own when the engine gets under a load. I’ve also heard that they aren’t too good for making a lot of power like the P-Pump but don’t hold me to that

‘Cruise’ control

It wasn’t a 4L originally and I haven’t lined up to anyone. I beat on it a few times and got ~12,3 0-60. She’s not meant for that by any means. If I wanted a go fast 4bt it would have compounds and a stouter trans. This one is setup to sip fuel daily and tow trailers.

Honestly I don’t know. More than a 99 ranger gasser and less than a used Ecodiesel. The main items are easy to add up and anyone can do a rough estimate of those. The real nitty gritty odds and ends is where a lot of the cost is hidden. I haven’t taken the time to sit down for multiple nights, and likely won’t, to try and track down every small purchase that was made. If I get that detailed then where would the line be drawn for regular maintenance on high millage vehicles? Brake calipers? Axle rebuild? Etc...I have done a lot more than just the engine swap to set this up for a long term driver which makes what seems like a simple question hard to answer. I should have made more an effort since I started to stash all receipts in a box.

You’re spot on. Drift it around and it’s 22. Baby it on the highway and it was 31.5. Haven’t been able to get it back up that high since my pump gave out and rebuilt it with parts from a forklift. I’m usually 26-27 in the summer now.