Still not a God, and thanks for watching them.

Thanks for watching.

Most Volvo's use Aisin Warner transmissions. The 2.9L S80 used this one. Thanks for watching.

Generally you will need a kit with clutches & pistons, filter, bushing kit and torque converter. Now to fix what caused the problem. The pressure regulator valve will be worn out in the stator. There are 3 ways to fix it. Sonnax and Transgo make a valve with extended wear areas. This can be used IF the wear is not severe. When it is severe, they both make an oversized valve but requires a reamer to bore it out. Transgo will be the cheaper version here. The other option is a new stator. The other problem will be the wear in the valve body. Sometimes the dealer will sell both halves of the valve body for not much more than the parts will be to fix it. I used to just buy the Zip kit from Sonnax. Now I do a mix between Sonnax and Transgo. You will also need the kit to repair the pressure switches in the Techm. They both sell one but the Transgo one seems to be out of stock all the time. Get your torque converter from Precision of New Hampton. If the pump happens to be bad get a new one. Don't go the resurfaced route, in my opinion. The 6L45 & 50 is hardly ever bad, unlike the 6L80 & 90 which are usually bad. Sonnax sells a thicker washer for the pump to take up some of the clearance. I have not had one yet that it made it too tight. Transtar is going to sell it in a package of 3, WIT will sell 1. Turning off lock up will help alot.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionIs there a certain rebuild kit you prefer? And are the Sonnax reman valve bodies any good? Thank you for sharing your knowledge it is much appreciated

Transtec with Raybestos clutches. The few I have used have been fine.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I can only get Raybestos frictions, steels are out of stock. I can get oem gm frictions and steels from the dealer for $100. Since it took 130k miles and internal pressure problems for the originals to fail I think they should be ok to use. Since I'm buying a new oem stator and a reman valve body, I shouldn't need the zip kit, correct? So far I'm planning on: -Transtec 81000638 with bonded pistons -GM 24252458 Automatic Transmission Clutch Plate Kit with Friction and Steel Plates -GM 24289720 Fluid Pump Stator -SONNAX GM6L45L Reman Valve Body -SONNAX 12474030K TEHCM Pressure Switch Rebuild Kit -Precision torque converter Then once it's rebuilt, use HP Tuners to turn off TCC until 5th/6th and change the trans fluid every 30k.

Sounds good. No, you won't need the Zip kit. I would add a bushing kit. Durabond if you can. If all they have is GPZ, stay with the old bushings.

Probably the bearing in the stator. Part #24214158. If it is bad it probably messed up the surface of the drive sprocket where it rides also. If you have a scanner you should be able to watch it. You want the input speed sensor PID. If the noise stops when you move the shifter and the input speed signal goes to zero, that is probably your problem. If it is when you install the new bearing the numbers need to face up. If you do pull it back out to do that I would seriously consider putting in the Superior K4T65E and K098 kits. And also adding an extra steel in the 2nd drum. Making and adding a steel in the input drum like I talk about.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for the reply! Is it common for bearings to only make noise when they get hot? I though a bad bearing would make noise when it is cold also. I'll check with my tech 2 for the input speed sensor to see if it goes to zero when I get back to the car tomorrow. . I did put the K098 in there and the extra steels already liked you showed how to do in the other videos. Just did not mess with the valve body.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Just got a chance to get back to this car again. I took it for a long drive today and when it got hot it started to make the noise again. I hookup up an Autel scanner and the Live PID data for the input speed sensor stayed at 600 or so when I moved the shifter from (P)ark just a tiny bit closer to (R)everse. The noise did go away but the pid stayed the same and did not go to Zero. When I put it in reverse the IIS PID did go to zero. So its probably not the stator bearing. Any other ideas what this might be? Trans is shifting fine just makes that noise after getting hot after driving 25 mins. Another quick question about the AC delco bonded separator plate valve body gasket on amazon they are $10 for one that fits a 2008 4t65e and there is another for a 2007 4t65e that is $33 that comes with a valve. Are the bonded gaskets the same? Could the 2008 $10 bonded gasket plate work in a 2005 4t65e or are they year specific? for reference GM Genuine Parts 24243102 is $10.92 ACDelco GM Original Equipment 24244403 is $32.69 Thanks Tom!

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Update: I went back in there yesterday and replaced the valve body with a used from ebay and installed the superior kit that you used in the valve body cleaning video. Also installed a new separator plate. Everything is working great now and no noise now after it gets hot! It used to shift hard going into reverse like there was a bad motor mount. That is also gone. If I ever do another I will definitely install the superior kit. Thank you for all the videos you make!!

Yeah, i've never seen that.