Hi Tina...thanks for the comment. You did the right thing by elevating the diffusers...often that helps and things settle out over time. If the water doesn't clear up you can try a binder or flocculent...a clarifier of sorts that will clump these particles together...they get heavy and then sink to the bottom. Check out a site called siltstop.com. They have a variety of binders that may help. If you try one, let me know how you get along with it.

Thanks for all of your information. I will be sending a water sample into silt stop to have a log made that will hopefully improve the clarity.

@@tinametzger9644 Hi Tina...you're welcome. Good luck with your pond and let me know how you get along with the floc!

Thanks for the kind words! By the sounds of it I don't think you'd need to run both the fountain and the aerator...maybe figure out which is more economical and go with that most of the time. If things get really hot there and that goes on for awhile, then maybe run the fountain more or as you say at night and just avoid mixing the pond so much, which can heat it up quite a lot. I say that too because this pond isn't that large and the pump is a bit of an overkill just horse power wise. I'm assuming this is a Vevor pump or something like it...on the one hand thats probably good because it only puts out the air of a 1/2 HP...on the other hand it costs what a 3/4 HP would normally to run...so they are not terribly efficient. I have two systems that actually use a 1/4 HP pump to run 2 diffusers and the other uses a 1/2 HP...the 1/4's cost about 15 bucks a month to run full time. Keep that in mind if the 3/4 HP gets a bit pricey to run for you...it does for some people and they limit how much they run it...which is not a good idea. For the diffusers, honestly I don't know about that one...I don't think size is the only thing here that's important...I mean some systems use sticks, or tubing loops that do really well. Mostly it would come down to how small the holes actually are in the membrane..I would be more concerned with that than the overall size, and unfortunately I've never looked over the vevor kits that closely to know. I hope this helps for you a bit.

@@klmponds - Thanks for the quick reply. yeah, it's a Vevor kit. I wanted to see if I could minimize algae growth and maybe clear up some muck with it. I didn't want to spend a small fortune to test this out. I'm in Mich so hot weather isn't really an issue here, at least lately. No fish to really speak of (yet) except for minnows and a few fish that are maybe 6". Trying to find something that would clean it up a bit but grass carp are not legal here.

You're welcome. No problem...go with what makes the most sense for you and your budget. Really for water quality, algae management you should have plenty of aeration. Remember though, aeration alone may or may not curb algae...its the microbial base in the pond that's mostly affecting the nutrients...and aeration support that really well. So see how it goes. Aerate as much as you want or can afford and try to go 24/7 with something. Give it a month or so and see if you note any changes in the algae...if not, look for something microbial to add in there. An example would be our Biosphere Pro product but there are many kinds on the market. I'm thinking about a video that addresses this very topic...so you have aeration...now what? Something like that...look for that in the next week or so and it will probably give you some things to try down the road...if you need to.

Thanks for the question...it really depends on the situation. What's the depth range, whats the primary goal of aerating. If fish are involved, what kind are they? The geographic location and seasonality would factor in here too. That all said, most of the time, I'm going subsurface but certainly not always. Cost to operate may also be a factor...if someone is on a tight budget and can only run a fountain a limited amount of time, a subsurface will usually provide more economical operation and maybe they can run it more often. So there are a few things that would lead us in a particular direction.

Hi Brian...thanks for the question. So you can put the diffuser in the deepest part of the pond...that is pretty typical. Normally the only time I may not do this is during certain periods of the year. Such as, winter usage...I don't like to aerate at the deepest point in winter...your only goal this is ice management...and you don't really want to stir up everything...so I work more shallow there. The other time would be in the south, in very hot conditions, especially in shallow ponds that lack a lot of depth...I may make some adjustments to aeration time and placement of the diffuser...but I would say in this case it's more about the daily run time, such as only running the aerator at night to avoid mixing during the hottest part of the day. Those would generally be the only exceptions...so I would place the diffuser in the middle somewhere and with a 1/2 acre pond, if you can get it to 8-9'. or more you'll do great. Typicaly with the single diffuser I'll run a 1/4 HP...its plenty for one diffuser, and actually can be used with 2. I'll normally start the 1/2 HP with 2, and up to 3 difusers. That said the 1/2 HP in most cases can run a single diffuser, usually with no problem...for me, I'm looking for good air output obviously but also efficiency and cost of operation.

Your counsel is truly appreciated. A local pond consultation company has told me that installation of a single diffuser is never advised, do you agree with that? If I put in two in my .5 acre pond they would not be very far apart.@@KLMPublications

@@briantucker9708 I'm not quite sure why they would say that. Granted if the depth were very shallow, then sure, you'd need to do that. As well, even a half acre pond, if it's really oblong, stretched out, may take two. But if this pond is at it's lowest and still 10'...and pretty uniform in shape, coverage will only get better in normal years and a single diffuser should be plenty.

Again, thank you, one more if I may... The system I am getting, for better or worse, 1/2 horse with a cabinet off amazon and one diffuser arrives on Thur, we are pushing ice coverage here in Iowa, warm temps this week, I should be good to get it in this weekend, but I don't have my power resolved yet. If it ices over before I can get power to the pump is there any point in even turning it on?@@KLMPublications

Thank you Thomas!

Lots of variables here that aren't mentioned but I would say this...any aeration can be helpful for something. If fish are a major priority surface aeration can be really protective. You may find if the pond has some real depth to it...say six feet, or deeper just as an example, it may be better to go to the bottom.

Hi Greg...good question. I think the main consideration here would be just for coverage. If you can get either diffuser deeper than 12' it will cover an acre on it's own. So the second diffuser wouldn't have to be as deep, but it could be. I would think about your pond's history...is there areas of problems or early development of algae, etc...this may often be in a shallower part of the pond. So it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some movement in that area...or you may be able to affect it fine from the two deep spots. I would not feel obligated I guess to target those deep areas necessarily, but there's also nothing wrong with doing so if they provide good coverage/movement throughout the pond. I hope this helps for you!

@@klmponds "is there areas of problems" Love your videos but get someone to check your grammar.

@@matthewwiecha8637 ​I appreciate the feedback Matthew. I agree, Grammarly would have highlighted that one! Nothing I do is scripted, and editing is always minimal (for better or worse). My focus and the point of the videos is the content, information, and advice...I hope in the end it's helpful for you despite a few flubs on my part. More to come:) Take care!

In a general sense, yes, it could. Hard to say how much really and it will vary from pond to pond. The increase in dissolved oxygen near the bottom supports this effort...and I would say if you combine aeration with muck digesting microbials, it can help. Even with those though its not a sprint. Overtime though you can work it down.

Hey Steve...it would typically be better to do it in cooler weather rather than the heat of summer...the fish would be under more stress then. Even then though people do install aerators and if they are careful about it, they normally do fine.

No, it shouldn't be a problem.

There are some out there. The manufacturers I deal with generally don't sell them individually...in other words they only sell them as replacements for confirmed customers. But, Thomas makes one of them and is a good company overall. What you will typically look for is a pump that will put out somewhere close to 2 cfm's...then you'll be in the ballpark of the commercial systems.

Hi and thanks for the question. So you can run the aerator year round but in winter the only reason to do so would be for fish (if you live anywhere in the northern US where it cools down a good bit). Keep in mind this winter use is just for ice management...Wisconsin DNR suggests 3% of the pond be kept open of ice for protection for the fish so you would not run all diffusers at once in this case. I would consult with airmax on what they would suggest for winter usage with this system...in other words, what is the minimal number of diffusers you can run on each pump without having issues with those pumps...that would be my only concern there. If you don't get a full freeze up where you are, or fish aren't a priority there would be no real benefit to running it. If you happen to be in a climate that has algae (warm weather) year round, then for sure, run it full on as you normally would and don't shut it down. In the end you aren't hurting anything by running it if moderate or cool temps, it's just that most folks we work with use aeration for helping with algae blooms or fish issues...and both of these subside in cooler weather and more moderate temperatures. And the aerator still costs money to run. I hope this helps for you.

@@klmponds Thanks for the information and getting back. The lake is located about 65 miles south of Saint Louis, MO.

@@jmfstl11 you might be warm enough there to not really see long term ice build up...and I would suspect it gets cool enough that algae would go away in the winter months. You can play it by ear and shut if off if you want to save some money and turn it on again if things really got cold and froze over for an extended period of time...but as things are going this year I'm betting you won't see that.

This guy knows his stuff. Thank you!