5. Cast Bullet Path 11 degree Forcing Cone (1 of 2 Revolver forcing cone and polish technique)

Рет қаралды 7,288

3 жыл бұрын

In this first video of two, I give a little discussion about the 11 degree forcing cone and why I chose this angle over the factory 5 degree cut.
Additionally, I show a handy polishing method that may prove useful on 11 degree cones that need a little TLC.
The polishing method that I am using will only work on 11 degree cones. Thanks for stopping by!

Пікірлер: 18

@ghostwriter6501 3 жыл бұрын

I learn so much from you, thank you for this series!

@leadsmith5873 3 жыл бұрын

My pleasure!

@jimv.661 2 жыл бұрын

Another great mini-course. I haven't shot jacketed bullets since the early 1970s, and see a limited need for them in a revolver. The 11 deg forcing cone has worked perfectly for me.

@leadsmith5873 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir!

@prebaned Жыл бұрын

The cylinder timing and alignment is what centers the bullet, not the free play in the cylinder notches and the bullet bouncing off the forcing cone. The cone is there to compensate for misalignment and to help prevent shaving and leading. Once that bullet leaves the cylinder throat it will hit where ever the cylinder is in relation to the forcing cone. The bullet will not self align.

@sd410MM 2 жыл бұрын

Flitz polish.. great video.

@leadsmith5873 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks 👍

@dauntlessendeavors1000 2 жыл бұрын

I think the drawing on the left side is out of order compared to the degree numbers. The 5-degree angle should look like the most gentle and the 18-degree should be the steepest. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

@leadsmith5873 2 жыл бұрын

Dauntless, thanks for watching! I understand your concern that 5-deg sounds as if it should be the most gentle and 18-deg the steepest. I'm not a machinist so I can not vouch for what methods they use to determine the number of the final measurement, but it is the way that I've depicted. I wish I could shed more light on the "why" topic. Thanks again!

@dauntlessendeavors1000 2 жыл бұрын

@@leadsmith5873 Taper angles are typically measured in two ways. The first is in reference from one side to the centerline axis of the reamer. The second is from one side to the other, which is also called the "included" angle. Forcing cone reamer angle numbers are "included" angles. A forcing cone angle of "zero" would have parallel sides with no taper at all. The larger the number, the steeper the angle. Manufacturers used to put ~16-degree included angles (8-degrees per side) on forcing cones and they probably still do. Gunsmiths began experimenting with shallower angles such as the 11-degree to try and ease the bullet through the cylinder-barrel transition with less leading and improved accuracy. You can ream a forcing cone to a shallow angle on a gun without making the entrance diameter too large. However, you generally can't go from a shallow angle to a steeper angle (and clean up the entire forcing cone) without making the forcing cone entrance too big. I hope this helps. Have a great day.

@frankiehernandez1854 2 жыл бұрын

Does cutting the barrel to 11° negatively affect Full Metal Jacket bullet accuracy? That's the only thing I'm worried about if it helps accuracy for one without affecting the other I'm sold.

@leadsmith5873 2 жыл бұрын

No trouble whatsoever that I'm aware of. Just be careful to not cut any deeper than needed to remove the factory 5degree (assuming it is currently 5deg). Going too deep has been known to cause accuracy problems.

@garetz2011 Жыл бұрын

I must be too stupid. I just can't understand how 11 degrees could be softer than 5. The lower the angle the longer the cone will be. OK. I must be looking for the wrong edge of this triangle.

@leadsmith5873 Жыл бұрын

No no... You're not even close to being stupid my friend. You are spot on. My diagram of angles is flawed. Sorry for any misunderstanding this caused. I'll try to revisit this topic. I've made a few edits in response. Thanks for stopping by!

@garetz2011 Жыл бұрын

@@leadsmith5873 I am having huge problems with lead, my taurus is poorly machined, that's why I am studying the problem. I suspect jacketed bullets may use softer angles because jackets can't be destroyed against rifling like lead bullets. A brass jacket starts to rotate with less interference. Lead bullets must reach their final shape as soon as possible, if the forcing cone is too soft the lead will be shaved and distorted because the projectile is getting faster and faster while the rifling is trying to rotate it. If the rifling is too shallow the soft lead may not rotate properly. Just a theory of mine. My cylinder is not well aligned with the barrel. I will try to adjust the cylinder stop. Maybe heating it to remove hardness and bending it. Not sure on how to do it yet.

@leadsmith5873 Жыл бұрын

@@garetz2011 problems I've seen with Taurus are similar. The 11deg come might help because has a better opening for cast lead, but yes 5deg is naturally less. The Taurus tends to have a rough cut, poor alignment with the cylinder and even questionable lock up. A trip back to Taurus may help, but they will only prove their work with factory jacketed ammo, so you may not get the performance with lead that you are looking for. Wish I had better optimism for you, but been down that same Taurus rabbit hole.

@garetz2011 Жыл бұрын

@@leadsmith5873 I will try to fix it. I got this gun in 1989 but I am not on a hurry... probably in the next months brazilian government will try to seize all our guns anyway. The commies are back here.

@leadsmith5873 Жыл бұрын

Go for it. Enjoy the ride. I'm sorry to hear about your nations situation. May the Lord bless you and all your fellow citizens.