Pretty soon the only original parts left are going to be the action screws. 🤣

As one of my own experiments, I put a shilen full bull barrel on a Savage Axis action and in oryx chassis. It is 6.5 Creedmoor and with hand loads it is usually under 0.5 MOA. I feel like I put lipstick on a pig 🤣. But this is an awesome series!!!

It has been a rare pleasure to watch a channel where logic and precision are the concerns. Instead of mag dumps. Although at 1000 yards, I have to take it on faith that there's even a target out there.

Love this series!

Get it done, you both have a lot of fun...Erik thanks for the brake

Yes, I really needed some more of the need more series.

It's impressive that the rifle that is clearly the worse shooter head to head straightens up completely after the tuner is dialed in. Erik is spot on. If you get to the point where it takes spending 3 or 4 times as much on accessories as the rifle cost to get it to shoot, there's no reason not to go the custom route.

I really like the stepwise approach, and then prioritize the "value add" for each change.

This is why I just go custom. Found out the hard way. Great videos.

Trigger tech special is the first level. To me they feel just as nice but they just don't adjust as low. Absolutely perfect for hunting rifles.

Thanks guys. This makes me feel a lot better about the track I'm on. Good upgrade ideas though.

6.5 needs more is a good show.

Erik you are the master of the rifle to me!! I’m going to buy the tuner brake asap

First 2 things I do are MDT chassis, and EC tuner brake. I run Savage actions, so trigger options are limited. Rifle Basix makes a good one, but I tune the Accu Trigger as light as I can and live with the 1-1 1/2 lb pull.

Load development will be fun to see

Looking forward to the remage install and test.

12:40 I will say my 700 that my grandfather gave to me for my first deer rifle is actually really nice. BUT... its a remington 700 from the early 80s. The fit and finish of it is leap and bounds better than the modern 700s

So, I really appreciate these tests and you have affirmed my thoughts on improving my Savage 110 Mdl. 10. I am on a budget, so it will take a bit to complete. I will order the Oryx first to get rid of the Savage stock and lighten the overall weight of the rifle. I have always had a heavy trigger, so the accu-trigger is adjustable and seems very light to me. I will go with it for awhile. Not sure of the meaning of the spring kit? Lastly, I will be ordering a tuner brake as soon as funds will allow. That leaves me with ammo and not being set up to reload, so I will have to rely on finding a factory load that this rifle likes.

I want the cheap one that shoots bug holes. So now they have the same chassis so they're both "comfy" to shoot. I say slug the barrels, cast the chambers, to see what the difference between the rifles is and call the series good. Trigger job on the cheap rifle may make it as good as the $500 trigger. I'm keeping the garbage stock. With all the new stuff on the custom rifle you could call it a Harley as there's no stock stuff on the whole rifle. Thanks for the great series. I look forward to every one of them.

I like your need more series

in the rainforests of the PNW, the AtlasWorx knurled bolt knob is my first upgrade for any bolt rifle. especially the tikka knobs are very slippery when wet. i know this isn't an issue down in TX.

Stickers also improve accuracy!!! The rarer the sticker the more accuracy you build into the gun!!!

Please handload first. Most people have to use factory Barrels and do handloads. Thats really interessting what steps you do in these reloads and how far you get with that. At least give it to us Patreon Supporters in detail (the reloading).

Nice to see a review where the guy can actually work a trigger 😆 What scope are you using on them?

I say put TriggerTech trigger on the 'stock' one. That should help it catch up to the other one.

Maybe have one of the actions trued instead of getting a custom action.

Definitely hand load very interested

Nice to know expensive means nothing. Kudos on your tuner break making such a difference. I always thought that the Barrel and bullets made all the difference. Seems your tuner takes the barrel out of the equation.

I would love to see a standard receiver vs. full blueprint receiver vs. a faced and lapped lugs receiver.

I have really enjoyed watching these videos. It’s exciting for me and I kept checking to see if the next installment was out lol. I was looking for an Oryx chassis and it seems they are hard to find right now. Honest question: do you think the tuner brake will help with my 300 PRC like it does on the smaller calibers? Same principles just way more powder.

Yes... more ammo!

Remington trigger is always the first one to go for me

Fragile. Guiseley, must be French Christmas story reference made milk come out my nose 😂

been building a budget gun a little at a time. done a full bedding job, barrel is full floating. I've also filled the hollow buttstock area to add some weight. compared to when I got it, it's a totally different rifle. ( Remington 783 in 308 I received in trade for doing some work for a friend) not expecting to compete with it....just wanted to see how far I can improve it on a budget.

Nice. #!!! 😊

You are funny, lol. I'll be buying your tuner brake soon for a rifle to test it out. It'd better work

How does the spring make the bolt run better?

Cool

Erik.i.got this geo ballistic u were talking about how does it work

Prefit barrels? Kreiger ect

Maybe put a factory remington trigger on your competition rifle... see what the difference is

Next time use Mossberg Patriots, if you can get one of those turds to shoot you're a miracle worker

Would love to see a tikka in 300 wsm need more.

Jason, Erik, what rear bag do you suggest when shooting off of bipod?

If you change the barrel, it’s not longer a problem with Remington.

You're getting to the point of a pretty expensive rifle. Everyone should compare these guns to a $2,000 PRS limited gun. That's not a bad thing, you just had an expensive starting point and used expensive parts. I started with a used Savage Axis XP, did a spring swap and shimmed the Accu-trigger, faced the action for a 110 style barrel lug, got a drop-in barrel and bedded the recoil lug in a clearance price Gen 1 MDT LSS chassis I got years ago. I also rebuilt the bolt with a fluted bolt sleeve and bolt handle from Glades, an Ebay delrin bolt knob and a bolt lift bearing kit. That's about $1,100 in with a couple MDT mags. It could use a barrel tuner but the action is actually really slick after I tweaked the bolt head baffle and the trigger breaks pretty clean and light. The downside of a Savage is that it doesn't have trigger options like a Triggertech or Flavio but you can get really close to custom action feel in a complete rifle for about as much as a bare custom action costs. I had looked at the cost of a trued Remington action and all the rest to make a Remington action custom but it just got too close to the cost of a full custom but lacked the custom features that come with that price. Savage also lacks features but you can do it a lot cheaper.

Yea a smooth does make a difference

So the spring the sends the firing pin into the primer some how when it is replaced makes the bolt slide down the rails inside the bolt smoother?? Maybe im confussed on what is smother from seapping out the firing pin spring.

I wonder how a Ruger American Predator would've fared in this mix-up. Apart from the dinky stock, they generally shoot pretty well out of the box. Add the Oryx and a trigger and it should do well. And the muzzle is already threaded, too. It's headspaced with a nut like a Savage, but even simpler because there's no recoil lug to fool with. The marketplace hasn't responded with barrels because everyone says "it's too cheap a gun to deserve rebarreling", but I think that's a silly judgement if the action is capable of performing.

I say handload with the same procedures you do for F class!

The best upgrade you can do is a reloading kit

Can you get a cleaning rod down the barrel in that chassis? Or do you need to remove the action?

Cryo freeze the barrel on number one see if that does any difference..

Did yo7 lap the lugs on those rifles

@erikcortina you guys have a download link for that target??

Once they are finished, time to auction them off.

Now maybe time to hand load for the needmore ,as there as modified as they can get ,without putting new precision barrels on them. Then change barrels and find the right hand loads for them .. Plus you're low on ammo. God bless you and your LOVED ONES

Im trying to find Flavio trigger. Where did you get it ?

Make one a 25creed and one a 6creed and see witch one y’all like best! Lol

I believe in the 3B's law : - Barrel - Bullets - Bedding

I sure don't share your opinion of the Tubb firing pin spring. Using it increased my ES 25% and SD by 24% this was in my Remington 22-250. This is the average of 3 five shot groups. Waste of money and time in my experience. J.

The next step is to get a new shooter - and I mean shinny penny-new shooter.....

I THINK AT THE END THIS RIFLE WILL GET RE BARRELED!🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️😂😂

Shoot at deer with one of them.

Am I committing heresy in saying this? My 100% factory Savage Model II (not a Model 11, but Roman numeral 2) wearing a Leupold M-223 BDC scope prints under .75" consistently with my handloads pushing Sierra 65gr Gamekings; any group over that is shooter error. My 100% factory Savage M112 Target Magnum prints near .5" consistently with my handloads pushing 250gr Matchkings. Other Savages in the case shoot similarly. So why would I buy a rifle to pitch the stock, barrel and trigger in favor of after-market hardware that shoots marginally better, for triple the money? My first Savage is a M11 LRH in 6.5CM. It's first 5-shot group with factory ammo went under 1" and has rarely done bigger than that; 120gr A-maxs are its diet for factory and handloads. My handloads squeeze that average group another 1/4" smaller. So why would I buy a rifle to pitch the stock, barrel and trigger to replace them at triple the money? Yeah, I get it. One ragged hole with a center to center measurement under .3" is fabulous! But that's the foundation of my question, $1000+/- for a rifle n scope vs $3000, $4000, or more to squeeze groups .1" or .2" tighter. At a certain point a shooter's (lack of) skill overrides the mechanical precision of the equipment. Not different from street legal race cars--just because you have X custom blueprinted motor, Y intake, Z tranny, ABC Corp tires doesn't mean you can drive as can a professional racer. My credentials? Simple. I attended TCLOES sniper school with a Leupold scoped 1917 Enfield chambered in 30-06. My final exam score put me 7th in a class of 13--dead middle of the pack. One or two were shooting .308s, everyone else 7mm Mauser and smaller. Plenty of guys had scopes that cost more than my rifle, scope, case, ammo, BDUs and gas to get to class. But I shot better than them. That's what counts, how well you can put to use what you have, not how much it cost. Off my soapbox, thank you for listening.

Then along came the Defiance and sat down beside her...

$500 trigger in a $500 gun 🤔

Waste of money on the 700 action and barrel. Should have went striaght custom. All your tryng to do make this one custom cheaper in the end to go striaght for the good stuff. Erik you know this

I got a headache from the camera movement.

This has been an interesting series, but it has most likely gone as far as it needs to. You are almost getting to a custom-built rifle. I have enjoyed the series and will continue to watch but it is insane to invest so much in an inexpensive rifle. Poor investment. Some may disagree but a custom rifle has resale. A cheap modified rifle does not have anywhere near the resale.

I do have a factory Rem 700 varmint rifle built in 1993 that has a factory trigger as good as any Timney I’ve ever used. That’s the only one. All others are garbage.

thats a joke you dont have to have a tac knob thats funny you have to say that or people will believe you

Should have started with simple handloads in my opinion. A $500 trigger and chassis on a $600 gun? Come on. I'm not sure what the point of this series is anymore. Seems like marketing to sell Oryx chassis and EC tuners.

Thats cheating at that point

It’s a shame you have to spend that much to make them shoot.

Love this series!