His assumption is biased on two things: 1) Faucet and running water 2) RO Membrane Flow Rating. Many people don't want or need the RO water on demand with the Faucet supplying running water. A large 100 GPD membrane can supply .07 GPM/0.25LPM😊 That said, in just 4-5 minutes it will provide an overflowing litre easily. I cook a lot and need approximately 7-9 gallons on hand for boiling and rinsing the spaghetti. Quite frankly I got tired of lifting buckets long ago. I use stainless steel Kegs from the brewery to build both my cold water and hot water storage tanks. I live without heat in a freezing climate. My interior temperature dips below -35f / -37c , so I need to drain back plumbing and pumps, bottle water and store in refrigerator etc.. The drains freeze solid too so I put antifreeze in and wait for warmer days because once the drains freeze it can take three months above 33f/0c to unthaw😊 them.

Would you mind to share any specifics about your system? I'm interested in installing one as well and would prefer the more traditional type with standard filter sizes.

@@toddwillhoit2397 I started with the rock bottom cheapest I could find on amazon that looked like (and it did) use standard filters and housings. Expect to pay US$100 to $150. Then I learned more and added on as I identified areas to improve. As I am on a well with variable water pressure, I think the biggest/most important improvement was the booster pump. I tried a "permeate pump" and it didn't seem to do much, especially with the booster pump, so it is now sitting in a box. If you wanted to start with something more pre-made, I'd investigate iSpring and APEC products. I don't have either of them, but they seem like decent quality, supported "generic" equipment. For more independent learning, the salt water fish hobbiests do a lot with reverse osmosis, and I found Bulk Reef Supply to be useful. Note you do not need or want deionization (DI) for drinking water so focus on the reverse osmosis (RO) part of the RODI systems.

Thank you!! After reading your prior comment, I was looking at an "11" stage Express Water system, which appears to be a 7 stage with creative marketing. Claimed output is 100 GPD. iSpring and APEC appear to have similar systems marked 75 GPD for $40-$70 more. Do you believe they are significantly different? I read elsewhere that reminerialization can be hit-and-miss. Do you have any experience with that?

@@toddwillhoit2397 Express Water systems seem very similar to me. I'd probably never use the company support, so personally I'd go for cheap. I'm skeptical of the added stages... I've looked at a lot of "remineralization filters" but I've not added one. Not sure I can trust what will be added, if anything, by clay balls and rocks - isn't that the same kind of stuff my water already went thru? What, exactly, will end up in my water? As for all the stages... Some have a specific purpose, while others are secondary/backup and maybe optional. Some are more decorative. 4 or 5 stages are the basic: * The reverse osmosis membrane is the special bit. It needs protected against chlorine and other contaminates * a carbon filter provides a lot of protection, so one goes before the membrane * maybe: if your water has chlorine (i.e. most city water) you require at least one really good or probably better add a second carbon filter before the membrane * Carbon filters are expensive, so a cheap particulate (sediment) filter before the carbon can help the carbon work better, longer * Sometimes the water going thru the RO membrane and in the storage tank will pick up a bit of a plastic smell/taste. A carbon filter on the way out to the faucet will remove that That's why on generic systems you see 3 filter canisters (pre-filters, sediment, carbon, carbon), a larger, more tubular (has 3 water lines) that holds the RO, then a smaller tubular for the final "polish" carbon filter. You could start with a 3 stage filter system. Decide if you really need RO. Or if you choose RO now, in a year or two when the RO membranes wear out you could decide that just the 3 stage filtering is enough and bypass the RO and output filter.

Thank you @sylvan-db . Useful info. I understand that generic systems are desired but after researching so many Generic brands and even more expensive are hideous about their certifications most important thing which this video leaves out. Only Aquasana is more upfront about filters but their undersink RO smart flow sucks

We would recommend the Neo-Pure PRO-4 Residential RO system. You can find it linked in the description!

@@Freshwatersystems Thank You

Yes we get what we need from food. It's also bad to have too much water as well. The old 8 glasses a day is actually bs. You just drink what you need. Not part of what you were asking but figured it was helpful info.

If I push myself to drink 2litres a day I just feel better. I do no a bit more self discipline tho 🫢😂

But it is a potential failure, since it is proprietary is not easy to do maintenance, no upgradability, cost of filters are higher. Most are made overseas and create leaks. It has a good principle since uses the same principle as the fridges but you can replace regular filters with $30 dlls against a minimum of $75 dlls for a 5 stage filter, it is not much but still is not worth the price. I still think it is more practical, I have the home master inline filters and it is a game changer, easier to replace the filter

Spot on. I am only considering tankless and it is the future. Few have the space to contain all of the mass and patience for the maintenance a tank based system comes with.

@@JoeBarbagallo If I upgraded mine probably will be a tankless. What I like about mine is the uses a permeate pump that does not require electricity and in a power outage I still have water not sure if tankless works the same. I still have some bottles of water as a backup

I believe RO process results in slow flow. Tank stores the RO water so the flow is faster and you don’t have to wait ages to fill a glass.

@@Fr4nkSanchezwhat’s the name of your system champ?