Thanks for sharing your experience. Much appreciated.

Thanks for the info. Having 0 experience with this type of chuck I was not sure what was correct. At least now I have another data point.

Thanks. That is why I did this project as well. I didn't really have a use for the magnetic chuck.

The forces were significant, but not so extreme that I was concerned about a pinching issue that would result in digit loss. This chuck was really badly damaged so, stoning or lapping would have to be a final process rather than the only one. Perhaps though I am wrong. I have never used a magnetic chuck before and was not sure how they were designed. I do not own a surface grinder, so for now, this chuck will only be used for light milling operations to flat stock on the mill. I really appreciate your ideas and comments.

Thank you for commenting.

I love that. The camera often catches things I miss.

I have noticed this as well. There are a lot of really interesting channels out there, that I am just now discovering. By the way, as I started reading your comment, I first thought it was going to be a negative one. Very funny that. A camera on catching my reaction when reading your post would have caught some funny video. I love that your logo looks like a tabasco label. Very creative.

@@DudleyToolwright lol, sorry about that.You are the first to notice or at least mention the logo, was starting to think it wasn't very obvious.

It was to me immediately and I love the play on ideas.

Thank you for the feedback. I always like to here about the good/bad of my videos.

Funny observation of my very very very strange workshop.

It is (old), but you have inspired me to take a second look. Thanks for taking the time to share these really helpful suggestions.

Also I think they are usually filled with oil.

Thanks for all of the info. I have never worked with a magnetic chuck before and really appreciate all of the info. I believe that the whole bottom section is on piece of cast aluminum. I should have thought about gasket material when I closed this guy up. I did consider milling a groove in the bottom section for some kind of sealant, but I figured that if Brown and Sharpe had left such a course face milling job on the bottom section, that they weren't too concerned about this kind of issue. Perhaps I thought incorrectly. I don't own a surface grinder, so for now this chuck will only be used for light milling operations on flat stock, so coolant issues are non-existent.

Good luck, It was really difficult to get the magnet pack off of the top of this small chuck when I got the top on backwards. I had to smack it off with a plastic mallet. I took quite a while. For your bigger one, yikes!

I get it. One thing to remember is that max magnetic attraction only happens if the material is thick enough. Magnets can also get weaker over time.

Thanks for the tips. I really appreciate them.

Interesting. I guess keeping the cutting fluid out is more important than having to get in to clean it out...

Probably not a bad idea. I am not sure if I should put oil in with the magnet pack or just in the rotating shaft portion. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the great suggestions. You probably could use way oil inside. It is very sticky and would keep the water out. I wonder why none of the manufacturers do this?

If so, it was the way I got it. Interesting idea though.

A great idea. I will give your suggestion a shot. I assume that you are talking about some sort of gasketing compound? Thanks for the good idea.

I think you are correct, but I currently have no way to do that, but I will remember your suggestion.

Interesting possibility, thanks.

I appreciate the comment. Thanks.

Perhaps both. However the old o-ring allowed all of the oil filled in the control arm to leak out rather quickly.

Might be a good idea to check with the manufacturer and figure out what if anything is supposed to be inside that thing before assuming anything about it as far as what should or should not be inside. There are way more oils that would "eat" the "epoxy" in that thing than "water-based" coolants that are intentionally made as "non-toxic" and "non-corrosive" and compatible with as many "common" plastics and rubbers as possible so they don't react with them in a machine shop full of tools with rubber and plastic parts of all kinds. And when many oils "mix" with a little "distilled water" in the form of condensation, acids get produced that are not at all friendly to many of those rubbers and plastics. Its easier for improper "maintenance" to cause failures/malfunctions/damage in/to "sealed" systems and machines than a "lack" of maintenance period. And its VERY likely that any "sealed" tool like that with an o-ring "positive" seal on the "control arm" is supposed to have some kind of "gasket" between various sections even if that "gasket" is only a gasket-maker compound of some kind like a shellac or plastic "form-a-gasket" or even a super-thin "onion-skin" type gasket. Any and all of which can, when properly installed and "cured" and "sealed" to begin with, look like "crud" on surfaces they seal upon disassembly. Also they're easily "eaten" by various lubricants and acids. That there were broken-off screws in it should tell you that at some point that thing was disassembled or somebody attempted to disassemble it and probably not just to see what was inside. More than likely they were "servicing" it.

Thanks for the tip. It seems the manufacturers use really thin strips of plastic for that purpose. Too thick and the magnetic field will drop off rapidly.

Thanks and yes definitely to the spacer material. I am not sure how these chucks are normally designed, but the plastic spacers were definitely proud of the top plate by at least 0.020". I agree that they were probably there to reduce switching friction, but they were so badly damaged that until I milled the entire top surface flat, they were catching on the badly corroded magnetic pack. I can move the on/off lever somewhat easily now, but I bet it was much easier when new. I also spread some Vactra way lube on the top plate to make things smoother, but I bet I will eventually have issues. Thanks as always for the insightful comments.

If you leave a pint of mixed grinding coolant in a glass jar a year, it will grow more strange life than primordial earth even without galvanic corrosion. The stuff is simply nasty.

Nice tips, thanks.

Thanks for taking what must have been quite a lot of time to share your views. You make a lot of good points and I appreciate you letting me know your take. I purchased this chuck because I knew very little about how they functioned, except for the theory behind them. I bought it to take it apart and see what design choices were made. I must admit I was amazed at how bad a shape it was in. I think the seller on ebay was being misleading on purpose and I wanted to call them out. I was never expecting a tool in great shape for the $60 I paid, but I think they could have at least come out and say the mechanism was seized. Instead they claimed they knew nothing about the tool at all. Your points are well taken and if I was looking for a deal, I did not find one. However, I did learn a lot. and the chuck works alright. Thanks again for taking so much time to express your ideas.

Interesting observation. You might be on to something there. Thanks.

Dudley Toolwright The epoxy that broke down might have been acting as an isolator in the design.

Could be. To be honest I could not find an obvious place where the rather large amount of sand like stuff could had come from. The bottom of the magnet pack looked somewhat like the top. I am still puzzled.

Thanks for the comments. I wonder if they never realized that coolant could get in between the top and bottom sections of the chuck. I also think Brown and Sharpe could have added a gasket between the sections as well.

maybe not so much lazy but not wanting to have to regrind it every time it's taken off which takes a bit of time and numerous wheel dressing as they are soft steel and brass, stainless or aluminium. I assume you turned it on when you resurfaced it

Your suggestion is a good one and I considered it. The reason I held off on that idea, was because the top plate is a strange composite structure and I was not sure how thick the bottom section was. The brass/iron interleave structure that you see from the top is nothing like what is present on the bottom. I might still follow your suggestion though, if the Vactra I used between the magnetic pack and top plate gets pushed out and there one again is too much friction to move things effectively. Thanks for a taking the time to share your thoughts.

Thanks for taking the time to share your suggestion.

I would not have considered that approach, thanks.

Funny, I missed that. I need to pay better attention to my viewers. I would waste less time. Thanks for the comment.

Me too :-)

But not so embarrassing you didn't "share" it.

Indeed, thanks for the comment.

I gathered that, but before I machined them down to make remove the corrosion, they were proud above the surface by quite a few thousandths. All are now flush. Spacing the magnets slightly out of contact of the iron on the top surface, reduces the magnetic field a bit. This would also serve to reduce the friction between the magnet pack and the top surface. I am only speculating about the design intentions though.

Dudley Toolwright Not knowing the mind of designers, I get to rebuild the mag chucks for out shop, lucky me, anyway not only is there a back and forth motion, but there is a vertical moment as well. The lever should have a Caming action. Good job cleaning it up.

It is amazing how strong the ceramic magnet pack is. It is definitely something to be careful around.

You think the Brown and Sharpe magnetic vise was made in Sweden? I looked them up on the Wikipedia and sure enough they are owned by a Swedish metrology company, interesting. Maybe there roots go deep?

Very sad. After shooting the video, I wondered if they never even conceived that ther was a path for coolant to get into the vise. The machining on the mating surfaces was pretty course and no room for gaskets. Thanks for the comment.

Or maybe somebody did "service" it but improperly/ignorantly and instead of "protecting" the chuck from coolant "ingress" just made it inevitable. Any seal that will keep "lubricant" in will keep "coolant" out. And its not uncommon for something like "shellac" to be used as a sealant in something like that and in the process of "servicing" the unit it ends up getting removed by somebody convinced they're removing "corrosion" or "contamination" before they end up putting the unit back together "unsealed". And there are PLENTY of gaskets that are MORE THAN THIN ENOUGH to properly seal those "rough" surfaces. "Onion-skins" is what they're typically called and they're used in between precision-machined surfaces that are "rough" for a reason and can't be "precision ground" smooth because "precision grinding" - regardless of WHAT countless internet "expert" machinists claim - INVARIABLY results in parts that are no longer "flat" since GRINDING STONES ARE GROUND AWAY AS THEY GRIND and never stay the SAME SIZE during a grinding operation. Parts truly "precision ground" or rather PRECISION HONED/LAPPED/POLISHED since those processes produce WAY "smoother" and FLATTER surfaces usually don't NEED gaskets or other sealants period because they're "smooth" enough that when mated the "gaps" left where the "peaks and valleys" of ANY and ALL surfaces don't provide "paths" for any fluids to pass through. If the surfaces on that CHUCK are that "rough" that should tell you what manufacturers of "precision" machine tools and other tools for machining/work holding etc think of "precision grinding". That it is only good for producing a specific "surface finish" and in "one-pass" operations over surfaces that don't have to be and often are intentionally not "flat" from "end to end". Its also possible that magnetic chuck was never DESIGNED for "wet work" and that it was just sitting outside or in some non-temperature-controlled "cave" of a warehouse/factory until the "scrap man"...I mean "vendor" hauled it off or maybe after he/she hauled it off or both where it got "hot" and "cold" and "damp" and "dry" and ended up with a dozen or two drops of condensation inside that it was "ruined". Water is the "universal solvent" and the "cause" of the overwhelming majority of "rusty" and "corroded" and "oxidized" parts. "Coolant" is usually "emulsified oil" mixed with DISTILLED water and generally is "non-toxic" and "non-corrosive" since it's pretty much everywhere in a "machine shop" and has to be compatible with and safe for all manner of plastics including "epoxies". Its also worth mentioning that since you have multiple metals and vibration and heat/cool cycles a "dry" chuck could even be "ruined" by the presence of a little condensation and GALVANIC ACTION. That powdery white substance that fell out during disassembly looked a lot like the kind of "chlorides" that go with galvanic action. And STAINLESS STEEL is HORRIBLE for galvanic action" because its a mixture OF ferrous and non-ferrous metals itself and when put in contact with non-ferrous metals its own non-ferrous metals are "augmented by" to the point of being much closer to equilibrium with the ferrous metals, it's a SPECTACULAR corrosion and "acid" producer. That's the other thing good old plain condensation water is good at producing. Acids. Especially if its "distilled" water as ALL condensation is. Distilled water is "pure" and doesn't contain "dissolved solids" so it readily "eats" any metals it can dissolve. Which is pretty much all ferrous metals or more specifically iron which is the primary component of steel which is the primary component of stainless steel. So overall, the possibility that "poor" or "non-existent" so-called "maintenance" is the cause of that chuck being the piece of scrap metal crap it is probably isn't as good as it being the result of "maintenance" that left the chuck "unprotected" when improper "maintenance" made it the lubricant leaking, coolant leaking mess you claim it is because of the leakage you claim doomed it but yet did nothing in this video to prevent if you're interested in keeping ALL moisture out of it. Especially if you don't make sure you know what you're doing including what "lubricant" its supposed to contain (if any) and also what the manufacturer's recommendations for "service" and "repair" actually are. Because as a long-time diesel mechanic, I've seen plenty of "doomed" machines from both a complete "lack of maintenance" AND "improper maintenance" when improper lubricants were used. Plenty of would-be "tool maintenance specialists" will drain lubricants and refill with whatever is handy or some "substitute" supposedly the "same thing" or "better" per some "expert" or another and end up replacing perfectly "good" but "nasty" old lubricant compatible with the machine itself with new, clean CRAP that's only going to destroy it. I've seen hydraulic oils that were "safe" for certain machines per their "specs" as far as viscosity, anti-wear and "detergent" properties but that "eat" the paint some manufacturers use INSIDE their transmissions/differentials/hydraulic systems to prevent corrosion and oxidation of "bare metal" if they ever sit either "bone dry" or even "flooded" for days at a time. Farm and construction equipment commonly get "flooded" and it would take weeks to "disassemble" and "clean" and "flush" all parts of the "flood water" so "clean out" procedures are used to "recover" flooded machines and if there is no internal rust/corrosion the machine is "good as new" without having to be "gutted". Some "quality" lubricant manufacturers make their products "cheap" by skipping steps like refining all the sulfur and other acid-forming (when mixed with water which ALL systems end up containing some of because...condensation) stuff out of their lubricants and when they're used in any system with "non-standard" materials like "paints" inside can end up "eating" that paint or rather "stripping" it and plastering sump screens and/or filters with it causing hydraulic system "issues" in the short-term and corrosion/oxidation "issues" in the long-term. But yet some people would rather do maintenance "on schedule" and "by the book" even if takes using "cheap" and "handy" substitutes that are substitutes and are "cheap" because they aren't the "real thing" the manufacturer uses/recommends rather than what the manufacturer recommends and usually sells and that is ALWAYS what is BEST for a machine. So I wouldn't climb TOO high on your "Mr. Maintenance" pedestal unless you're sure what you're doing to "repair" or "rebuild" or "restore" that chuck is actually addressing the real "issues" and you're not screwing up as bad if not worse than previous users. And stop acting like somebody "trashed" a tool that if only "properly maintained" would be in "perfect" condition and therefore probably OUT OF YOUR "PRICE RANGE" AT LEAST AS FAR AS "GOOD DEALS" GO. You didn't BUY a quality, properly maintained and good condition used tool although if you had that's what you'd have now but wouldn't have content for a video you're probably making or are hoping to make a "profit" on. And you shouldn't expect to get "good tools" for "cheap" if you have any kind of clue anyway and wouldn't be buying used junk if you wanted/needed good quality tools "good to go" and apparently don't have the desire/need FOR good quality good-to-go tools and DO have the "free time" for "projects" like this so you more than got what you paid for. And don't expect anyone with a clue to feel sorry for that inanimate object tool OR you for buying it. You're the one buying old junk and more than likely "scrapped" tools from "vendors" so I'd be careful talking smack about other "users" of that tool in the past who may have done exactly what you're doing or think you're doing and "serviced" the tool right into scrap condition.

Thanks for a lot of interesting information. You know the powdery stuff that poured out of the inside of this chuck was a lot like dried shellac. Interesting. I did not notice anything sealing the interface between the bottom section and the top, but I could have missed something. My comments were not intended to sound like complaining rather an observation of what was probably a nice tool neglected. If I came off that way, I apologize. I used vactra way lube between the top plate and the magnet pack because that is what I have. It is really tenacious stuff, so I hoped it would stay in place, but it might very well not. Finally, I do not have surface grinder, nor do I hard ever use coolant (probably a fault), so I was not worried about sealing this chuck from the elements. At most, it might see some time on my mill to do light cuts on thin parts. Thanks for spending a lot of your personal time to share your thoughts and take on my video. I really appreciate constructive criticism and I am sure others will benefit as well.

@@deeremeyer1749 Mr Angry just discovered the quotation mark key on the keyboard?? Always best to try and be at least a little positive and encouraging, not everyone can be as smart as you.

Good point. Add water and you have dissimilar metal electromigration. Thanks for the heads up.

When I made this video, I did not even have access to a grinder, so I used what I had on hand, but I definitely get your point.

@@DudleyToolwright So nice to give you a heads up on my experience so to help you Dudley. Good day too. V

Southern California, USA.

Ok

Thanks for the clarification. Sometimes my narration is me thinking out load. I appreciate your insight.

The "magnet, is actually epoxied together! The top plate is what is copper brazed together! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ma1dY5Snvpmah2Q.html

@@DudleyToolwright Also, mine does have oil in it, so when i rebuilt it, i replaced the oil as well.

Thanks for the tip. I really appreciate it.

Fair point, but I am not really a machinist, but a serious hobbyist. By the way, I was a bit miffed because the ebay auction said this item was in good working condition. It wasn't. Thanks for the comment.