IF Classified stays in business and makes a cheaper hub for the masses, there will definitely be 3rd party cassettes coming. Not sure what the ratios will be but reliability may be the limiting factor for big cogs. Similar to Rohloff only offering warranties if you don't go way too low in gearing

@@veganpotterthevegan Well, I really hope they stay in business or get aquired by SRAM or Shimano, so that they can integrate the hub in their elecronic shifting ecosystem. DI2 compatibility, bigger cassettes, and moving the hub from the wheel into the bottom bracket (so that standard wheels can be used) would be a dream come true

@patrikstutz7592 a dream for you. It really is just too expensive to add weight to a bike though. Not a lot of people wanna spend a premium for something that weighs more

@patrikstutz7592 I'm much more looking forward to the inevitable 14sp cassette. A 50t chainring and 14sp 10-48 would be hard to beat for everyday riding. And it could have ratio changes similar to a 12sp 10-33 with an extra 40t then 48 with easy, cheap wheelswaps. The Classified hub is great. I would have definitely loved it when we had 10sp cassettes. But it gets less appealing as we add cogs.

@@veganpotterthevegan The problem is, adding more sprockets doesn't add more range, just nicer jumps between the gears. For heavier riders, that like to climb, but also like going fast, range is key. If it's still lighter, and cheaper than a pinion (the clear winner when it comes to range), it definitely has a reason to exist.

Shimano also makes an 11-42 XT 11s cassette

Yup. Ordered the 44/30 TA rings last week. I plan on making a short update video when I get them on.

microspline required for anything with a 10t cog. Easy tool-free swap on a DT 240 hub. Most modern hubs have the option.

I toyed with the idea of wider range front and 11-36 rear. But it didn't have a low enough gear. Good solution though. No 11-46 12s that I know of but there are 11s

@@emilioc700 sorry I should have clarified, yes it was an 11 speed…it was amazing….i love fooling w gearing, I now have a giant anyroad w a 50/39/24 triple ( I love doubles) w 11-38 cassette….not as low as the other set up but much wider….the first was 16.8-114.8 gear inches…the triple is 18-127…..im shooting to for 15-120 gear inches as my ideal gravel range

@@GasmanA 15-120 is ambitious but definitely doable. I just swapped some TA 44/30 rings and am now at 18.8-124 and its perfect. I think I'll do an update video

Might be worth a try. My guess is the mech and Di2 RD's are the same geometry. The 1x RD is a tad shorter than the 2x RD though. 10-51 is a bigger jump than my 10-45 and the standard chainrings also a bigger jump. So your combo is more likely to have capacity issues.

@@emilioc700 well I have 2x RD. With 10-51 I just meant to test out the 11 smaller cogs before committing to buying a 10-45 cassette and a Microspline freehub body dedicated to this wheel. But yeah, 46 to 48 is just 1 half-chainlink more on the chainwheel, but still matters. More of an issue is lack of crosschain limits. Is the roadlink necessary in your setup, or does it still work without it but worse?

@@OYeahan Road link is necessary. I tried without it. Really tried a bunch of different combinations of chain length and adjustments before I found something that worked smoothly like OEM. Smart to test on 10-51 before investing in the 10-45. Mech allows full cross chain so it requires some caution from rider. Di2 locks out the 10-12 cogs so only 14t is possible.

@@emilioc700 thanks. Maybe I'll manage to try with the Microspline freehub body from my MTB DT350 clone (but AFAIU I'll need to add some spacer if possible, as on the road 350 hub there is a little bit of extra space that those road 11/12spd freehub bodies use)

I am actually thinking of trying a 50Tx10-51 for Copperopolis road race. I'd use a 1x chainring with a chainguide. Long steep descent with broken pavement, called NorCal's Paris Roubaix. I dropped my chain a few times this year, just like everyone else. Gives me about a 1:1 low which is perfect for the 14% section where I launched the winning attack. But still has a taller 136 gear inch on top for the descent. I think a 10-45 might work with a road RD which only requires a 35T capacity to make it work.

@@emilioc700 Great, I think i will swap the 10t to a 11t though, 50-10 is a little bit too big for me😅. Yeah about the chain drop, I am running 11-36 on the rear with 9270RD and 50t on the front with one road bike for daily drive without chainguide, always worried about the chaindrop when riding at 50-36 gear.

@@willyturing1803 1x specific thick-thin ring helps chain retention

@@emilioc700 On the same token, since there is no 10t cog on shimano road, do you think we could swap out the 11t on the road with a 10t from MTB then using 48t on the front? What might be the downsides of this?

@@willyturing1803 10t requires a microspline freehub. www.gear-calculator.com/

Now that would be some range! When Classified releases something like a 10-42 or maybe 11-44, I would consider switching. Until then, their cassettes don't have enough range.

@@emilioc700 Yeah, I think it was on a GCN video at the Euro bike show last week. It was on a stand and they couldn't play with it. Just stood out as a big oddity. For the person that wants the most range ever. I'm still running Rival mechanical 11 speed on my gravel bike and will upgrade to 12 speed or double chainring the second I have the money to do so. The jumps in gears is too big to be ideal for quality training or racing. Very much amateur grade, but it gets the job done. I already have two other billion-dollar bikes (Tri and Road), so I know the difference. But then I also don't have any more money at the moment because I spent it all already on other bikes. lol.

Ah didn't know that. Explains the poor shifting with Shimano 12s chain.

@@emilioc700 i'll buy it off ya if you're selling :)

Every combination works without the chain sagging?

@@emilioc700 No, even the long XT8000 foot is not enough, 48t in front and small nine gears 11-39t, 45t and 51t lack a chain, 32t in front and all 11-51 t, 22t in front and nine large gears 15-51t, on 11t and 13t the chain sags a little.

Agreed that works on the low end. But I do need a lot more than a 38x10 on the top. Every rider has different needs.

That's a normal function of any electronic groupset. They slightly overshift then settle back to centered.

@@emilioc700 Hmm, my RD-R7150 105 Di2 didn't do it, and overshifts in the 1x11 GRX Di2 didn't have little ticking noises.

@@sabamacx You might be confusing normal auto-trim motor noises with incorrect adjustment. On all my Di2 bikes over the years, they are silent once shifted but will sometimes have a brief auto-trim adjustment during or just after shift. I'd take it to a shop if you aren't sure.

@@emilioc700 Do your autotrims appear as ticking noises following some shifts, almost at random (sometimes a shift doesn't need a trim, other times it spends a second buzzing or ticking)? Like in the video I uploaded in the first comment.

@@emilioc700 May I ask if you could remove your chain and record a KZfaq short demonstrating how your shifts perform? I've scoured across Instagram and KZfaq looking for someone "dancing their derailleurs" on a tabletop before install for the new GRX Di2 without luck. It is a hassle and adds wear to your quick link, so no harm or foul if you don't.

I considered an old 42/32 MTB crank set up but they are mostly 9s ands not compatible with 12s chain. The cranks are also heavy and I wanted something lighter and more modern. But yes, on a budget, one can just fit old MTB gears to their gravel bike for lower gears and good range. I'm still looking for an aluminum 30mm spindle carbon crank for GRX rings with meter, but nothing exists yet.

@@emilioc700 haha. Nope I'm a cheapskate my chains cost £6.50, cassette £20, if I move even to 9 speed that instantly doubles. I use rim brakes, the frame is a 2017 alloy Dawes hybrid, it's a square taper bottom bracket You can call it heavy but I'm over 90kg I forget what the bike is, maybe 17? Let's say 20kg to make the numbers easy, so me plus bike ~110kg (not including load which is big paniers plus backpack) Say I spend five times more on carbon everywhere and save 10kg, that's not even a 10% weight saving, closer to 5% loaded - it's a marginal gain for huge expense Not at all personal against you, don't take it that way, but I just don't buy what the component manufacturers have done for the last decade or two, it's a con, a marketing exercise to sell the latest thing, ever more expensively and always more often - ALL of the new stuff is designed to wear out in no time How are your tyre pressures? Get them up to maximum inflation if they aren't there already - that's not marginal 👍

@@ΑΣΔΦΓΗΞΚΛ I have new stuff and ride 10-13k miles a a year and it doesn't "wear out". Crazy high tire pressures being faster is a myth. Look at the data :). You're touring/bikepacking. I'm racing. Different needs..

@@emilioc700 guess so, never felt the need to race 🙂 My tyre experience is different, maybe it's the load, so not a myth from my point of view And drivetrains disappear like there's no tomorrow in comparison to say six speed cogs used to, again, my personal experience, doesn't mean it's universal I guess Good luck with the races

@@emilioc700 it's a link to KZfaq 7e2Jyh8pHss Or at least the ID, likely it gets deleted This is where we're coming from

Because I have a lower gear than standard GRX provides and I use it. I rode a 2,000' 9-12% gravel climb today in 105° heat. Needed that lowest gear. But I don't want to sacrifice the taller gears for the 20 miles of pavement to get there. If you don't need the range, don't set your bike this way. But clearly, I'm not the only one who likes and wants more range. And it shifts perfectly, just requires more care in set up is all.