Thank you mate, I appreciate the kind words

Thanks so much

Welcome mate, glad it helped you

Thanks for commenting 😁

Welcome mate

Welcome mate 😁

This is a really good simple to understand video cheers I hope there’s more on the way oh and you did do it correctly 😊

Is that priced through Ryco parts mate?

@@RealAutoSolutions Prices vary wildly, Repco was like $350, but Sparesbox (owned by GPC, who also owns Repco) had it as low as $120. Not that I need it - I got the RTK179 kit for like $25 since my pan is metal.

@@KaldekBoch cool man, yeah GPC are massive, they also own NAPA This is half the issue with the industry, you can shop around different places for different prices owned by the same company and it makes mechanics look dodgy, instead there should be a fixed price for retail and different rates for the trade depending on amount spent

@@RealAutoSolutions yeah and Sparesbox just drop ship from their various retailers anyway!

it reaches 30 in a minute or less, so probably not a huge issue, especially in Australia. I chucked forscan on my 2014 sz and the atf temp was 30 (cold start) when i loaded the graph up after just starting it. Spring weather though, so if in a cold climate i'd say you'd need to adhere to the temp checking.

I'm sure it won't make much difference lol

Fair point. Having said that, it's 31°C outside right now, so if anything have a big shop fan blowing over the tranny and keep the fluid in the fridge. Running through each gear for a minute or 2 will get too hot. These are German gearboxes - for German weather.

Temp only matters when you are CHECKING the fluid level. You can fill it cold. The filler plug should be replaced though, not reused.

"all sorts of headaches " ; could you elaborate please ?

Thanks so much!

Thanks mate, for this sort of job with the genuine stuff we charge around 770 inc GST

@@RealAutoSolutions just something for next time, it would have been good to show the pan straight off the transmission to identify any metal filings or clutch pack material. Maybe you didn't have any in this one though after 60,000kms which is pretty good. Also do you disconnect the cooler lines at all normally. Seems like there would have still been old oil in those and the converter. I've seen some sort of flushing machine that claims to remove all the old transmission fluid. When you're servicing how do you ensure you get rid of all the old fluid?

@@zucan100 There will always be fluid in the torque converter so at best it is only an 80% fluid change but it is still a heap of new fluid which will dilute the old stuff. On my son's car which had quite old brown fluid, I drained and refilled it and worked it through the gears for 5 minutes and then drained that before taking the pan off and changing the filter & cleaning it etc. It is beautiful clean looking on the dipstick now. Many experts don't recommend flushing as it dislodges dirt into places you don't want it like valves etc. If you change the fluid regularly, there will always be some level of old fluid unless you disassemble the trans but in practical terms it really doesn't matter. I have done my Kia Sportage and my Holden/Chevy Cruze before the recommended intervals as I am not a fan of "lifetime fluid" service intervals. The Kia has a heavy duty use mileage of 140, 000 kilometres but the fluid was pretty dirty looking and opaque at 140k and 10 years. I got my Cruze done at 90,000 kilometres as it was herky and jerky ( hung on to gears and then jerked into gear) even though the trans service interval was 150,000k. Just done it again and it is almost like a Rolls Royce shifting. Factory service intervals are way too long in my opinion even with synthetic fluids. Helps if you can do it yourself as then it is only the cost of the fluid mainly vs $300 for someone to do it.

You are welcome!

No problem

Depends on what you're using to fill them, I have never removed the 02 sensor

I agree, there probably is, there is for everything But for the many times I've done this task, they have never leaked not using the torque procedure

Thank you!

Youre welcome mate

Hey man, a small run out would be what I reccomend, rather than a drip out, this would be the difference of only a few hundred ML, when filling around 6.0L both would be acceptable

Yes mate

Thank you sir! 🙏

Absolutely and the cost of the filter and gasket are expensive too, the oil is around 35 per litre Filter kit around 200 Plus the labour and GST!

@@RealAutoSolutions Can you share the part no. Bro if possible for gas-kit and filter

@@AkashdeepSingh-fz1yw I don't have numbers I'm sorry dude It's just a generic number I'm not sure of the correct number for you

That's incorrect mate, the oil level is set with the engine running

Old mate knows his stuff. It is when the engine is running and all the oil passages, torque coverter are full of oil at running temp. That is the only corect level. Pretty common with a lot of transmissions with a level plug.

Thanks for commenting mate! A bit hard on the territory with the heat exchanger set up, if you were to remove that and run an external transmission cooler you could remove the feed line to the cooler and pump it in at the same time. The only other thing I can suggest is, fill the transmission, run it for a few minutes, then do the job again

I had a trans with pretty dirty fluid so I dropped the old oil and filled it up again and ran it through the gears etc and then drained that. A lot simpler than trying to jig up connections for flushing it etc. Not 100% but better than nothing and it would still be 90% or more cleaner than just 1 fluid drop leaving all the old fluid in the torque converter.

​@@RealAutoSolutionsthanks for your reply mate. Cheers.😊

@@dominiclucas8617 easy stuff 👌

Hey Matt, you would need a scan tool to gather some direction man Check the brake lights are working properly

I agree but our climate in Perth is already very close to the temp, in a cold climate it would be reccomended

Have you checked the oil level mate? As the car warms up the oil expands Sounds like an oil level issue

That's correct, the torque converter stores litres of oil too, depending on the condition of the oil it may need flushing If your oil is really black then I would be flushing it, if it's relatively clear still, a service like in this video would be sufficient

@@RealAutoSolutions ahhh ok. Well first time at 185K hahaha. Hopefully it’ll be fine. Unless you recommend to just flush it after so long. Thanks for the reply though, really appreciate it!

Far out. If it's the first time I would suggest a flush hahaha

@@RealAutoSolutions sheeet, alright I’ll see what I can do. Thanks again mate!

Hi Louie! Can you send a pic to my email? jackmackay93@gmail.com

pan has sequence for tightening.@@RealAutoSolutions

I believe they're t40 or t45 torx

Less than 3ml of crc mixed with 10 liters of transmission fluid will do absolutely nothing.

@@brendanduda1493 unlike you I rebuild them . I’m surprised you don’t use concrete to make the box stronger.

​@@tba3900and how would you know what it is I do? A spray of CRC on a single filter O ring will have 0 effect on the transmission.

@@brendanduda1493 your a special unit.

Send me an email Robbo, jackmackay93@gmail.com Our business is located in myaree

Apologies for getting back to you so late I haven't used a Ryco one in the past, but I have priced them up & if you can find a quality supplier of trans parts you can buy the genuine stuff for essentially the same cost! So I would recommend looking around first before pulling the trigger on the Ryco kit As for the ford dealer, I would not listen to what they say, they are not life time oil & you will definitely notice a difference after the service

The $400 is for a plastic pan.....steel pan filter and gasket $62 at Repco less 10% member disc.

I’ve used the RYCO filter a couple of times or a TransGold one, no problems. I’ve always used generic fluid, Gulf Western - get 20 litres for under $200 direct from GW or order it through SuperCheap. Valvoline Max Life from Bunnings or Repco is also fine.

Thanks Ryan, we're located in Perth WA If you would like to speak further please email me jackmackay93@gmail.com

Just push it in, use transmission oil to lubricate it

About 6 litres, no mate I would not recommend gasket maker. Use the correct gasket, for the 6r80 (ranger, metal rubber gasket) only about 30 bucks

@@RealAutoSolutions ok too easy. Where’s somewhere to get a 6r80 gasket? :)

@@alexicutcliffe4825 where are you located ?

@@RealAutoSolutions Tas

@@alexicutcliffe4825 we usually use motospec, driveline or alltranz. Google them and they can help you

Did you do a service to it? Can you give me more of a back story

Not sure how much I trust the flushing machines. If you do not have fluid leaking out of the check point like in this video, you need to continue filling with more oil

@@RealAutoSolutions okay Thank you, I did not know the gearbox can fill up to 13 litres, thank you

@@eduardtilita321 yeah! And make sure it's running whilst you set the level

@@RealAutoSolutions thank you so much I was looking for a answer for months!! Yep filling at 30/40 degrees with running car

@eduardtilita321 great job, is it working well now?

Motospecs In Welshpool 93119950

It's not always needed

If we get one in & the customer wants to go ahead we definitely can do 😁 Or next time my old man's car comes in I will do an over view of the job we did ages ago

@@RealAutoSolutions awesome

At what time?

a 20L drum pump straight into the lifeguard 6 oil

Around 700 in Perth

Correct but in Australia the oil is already very close to the temp for checking

Yep. 40 deg C and dripping out of the fill port after running the transmission through P-N-D-R-D1-D2 holding each position for 5 secs. Doing this a few times will ensure the fluid is flushed through the valve body and oil galleries. If the temp goes above 40 deg C stop and let it cool down and then continue again.

@@RealAutoSolutions My FGX took several min. to reach 37c for checking

@justgjt d1 and d 2 is the same as D mate :) It's just gear lock out For example If you put it in gear D2 it wouldn't take off in 2nd

@jimclarke1108 yeah probably true of most days, but this day was already around 30 odd degrees so it's not far off as an ambient temp

Not that I am aware of mate, why would you want to run the 6r80? The BTR 4 speed is a great box when built properly, same as the ZF6

Because I have a territory with the 6hp21 and I was wanting to tow with it but now that I know what’s in it it’s made me nervous. Do you think I could swop it out for the 6hp26?

The steel pan job is around 45 minutes, the plastic pan is a bit quicker as no cleaning is required (provided you have a hoist and all the tooling already set up like the oil pump i have)

@@RealAutoSolutions cheers for that.. a mobile mechanic wants to charge me $150 for labour only here in Sydney to change the oil, which I think is reasonable.

@@realthing360 very reasonable, we charge 750 Inc GST for a full service using genuine parts.

@@RealAutoSolutions for me it would be a total of $465 including labour which includes 6 litres of genuine ZF lifeguard 6, the same gasket as the metal one you used, but a ryco filter instead of the genuine ford.

@@realthing360 cool mate sounds like a good deal in that case 😃

Absolutely re use them, done heaps, no dramas ever The only time U may have an issue, is when you use the green paper factory gasket

@@RealAutoSolutions Good to know, as the new bolts aren't cheap. Thanks

​@@RealAutoSolutionsI have a rubber gasket with my new filter. is this any good?

@@magyaradam that's fine mate just don't do them too tight

Lifeguard 6

@@RealAutoSolutions dumb question that I know the answer for... But... Is it OK to use Penrite?

@@davesmith6754 I know people have used it before. It's probably ok, I haven't used it personally I would still strongly recommend ZF

Depends on where you're located and if they use genuine or aftermarket, prices probably could vary between 500-800

Haha yep! Definitely need servicing. Would have done it around 50k from new

It houses the filter and the filter can't be replaced, so it needs a pan assembly when using plastic sump

@@RealAutoSolutions cheers buddy I managed to figure that out. Stupid as.

@@desire_002 haha yep! Sorry for the late reply I didn't see this in my notifications 🙄

Correct mate :)

@@RealAutoSolutions what’s the oil refill difference

@@anthonybagnato7894 shouldn't be any different mate

Youre trying to change the whole housings? You could mark on the tail shaft and on the wheel then rotate the tailshaft to get one full wheel rotation to give you an estimate

In Perth mate 🙂

2014 sz diesel gearbox same as this ZF 6Hp26?

No sealant mate

@@RealAutoSolutions really ? Nice thanks

@@magyaradam just a new gasket mate :)

@@RealAutoSolutions sweet as

Totally agree mate, but at this point in time this is all I can provide

Please explain

@@RealAutoSolutions 1st mistake that u did was the filling oil bolt .. , never drain oil without removing filling oil bolt., always remove filling bolt before removing drain bolt .. 2/ mistake car should be always on level surface when filling back in oil .. 3/ after 1st stage of filling in the oil the car should be running for about 15 minutes and monitor the temperature 🌡 .. and use a thermometer ONLY when car gets around 35c to 45c then u fill in the 2nd stage. 4/ good points . U used good oil zf6, and use the gear change wile topping up on stage 2 .. only mistake there u should leave the car on for longer / use thermometer , and top up the rest when oil gets around 35c/45c .

I have to disagree with a couple points here. Undoing the filler plug on this particular transmission service, makes no change when draining the oil as we're dropping the whole pan. Even on a side pan deal you could take the filler plug out but still not a massive issue, all the oil will still drain out (not the converter) The second point, the car is level on the hoist. That is checked when taking it up in the first place. The third point, yes around 35c is the correct temp to set the level, In Australia it's around that temp often in summer, this video was filmed on a 30c day so the oil is already very close to that temp, so not a massive change here either.

@@RealAutoSolutions yes I maybe correct about when raising the car , ur car raising system should be level .. 2/ no u doing it wrong u MUST unloosen the filling oil bolt before drain the oil . Reason THAT u MUST do it is because in case u drain oil frist and the filling pug is damaged / can’t unlosen.. u will be stuck with a car with no gearbox oil.. good luck getting the car out with a empty gearbox oil .. 3/ wrong again about filling the 2nd stage , u can just presume that u live in a hot country that ur gearbox oil it’s 30c/ 40c just by looking at the bottle .. The car need to be running , with engine on and for about 10mints and I need to use a thermometer to do the heat reading . If u dont do this it’s a fail, and most likely the gearbox with brake in future., also and its a cowboys job as a mechanic by just eyeballing because u live in a hot country makes no sense .

@@antoniogoncalvesb.pereirag8922 just be quiet clown. loosening the fill bolt first is a suggestion or good practice. what are the chances of a damaged fill plug? and how does it change anything? it'll have to be removed somehow, who cares when that occurs? it's in a mechanics workshop not in someones home garage 🙄🙄 and regards to the temperature, the 6hp26 needs a fill temp between 30 and 50, optimum is 40, on a day with ambient temps of 30'C the transmission will reach 30-40'C very rapidly especially as the 6hp26 on the australian fords use a heat exchanger, after 10 minutes its gonna be too hot. so shut up and stop making yourself look like a clown.