6th Gen Accord Fuel Pressure Test

Рет қаралды 8,383

4 жыл бұрын

This is how I hooked up a fuel pressure tester gauge to my 2000 Honda Accord Coupe 4 cylinder.
I could not find a shred of info online on how to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to a 6th gen (1998-2002) Accord. The service manual procedure involves purchasing a Honda fuel pressure test gauge as well as a proprietary adapter to hook it up. These adapters cost a lot and are difficult to find.
If you already have a fuel pressure tester gauge kit which costs $25 at Harbor Freight, this fix costs $5 and a trip to your local salvage yard.

Пікірлер: 15

@carolynn8083 5 ай бұрын

That roof rack!!

@Angelo-lq3vd 10 ай бұрын

Very helpful thank you!

@pitter_padder 4 жыл бұрын

Great video! I have a '99 5-speed F23A1 Accord. Experiencing power issues shortly after starting it where the engine dogs out for about 15 seconds then clears itself. I've checked and/or replaced various parts that could be causing the problem but nothing has changed. Its honestly driving me a little crazy. But I haven't looked much at the fuel system yet. In my troubleshooting I've found it's consistently running rich. Started looking into how to check fuel pressure and now I'm right where you were. I'm definitely gonna give this method a try, thanks!

@roadtrip4074 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad I was able to help. And yeah, it's better to start diagnosing than it is to throw parts at it. I can't say I have any experience with a car having that issue but I'm definitely not a professional. Just a person who spent way too much on parts without proper diag. Good luck to ya!

@pitter_padder 4 жыл бұрын

@@roadtrip4074 UPDATE - Original issue was Fuel Pressure Regulator. What sucks is it passes pressure diagnosis. But after studying short term fuel trims, I found I could manipulate the STFT by doing different things with the throttle, removing vacuum line, and squeezing the return line. Problem has been there for years so it actually made the fuel injectors bad and the O2 sensors bad. Replaced the O2 sensors made it run a lot better, but still rich. New injectors took a huge chunk out of the richness. Then a proper regulator made it all level out. The bogging engine shortly after starting was caused by a build up of fuel before the system went closed loop and the O2 sensors could fight it. New O2 sensors got rid of the bogging because they went closed loop a lot quicker. Used the method in this video quite a bit lol. Figured I'd update my fix! Thanks again!

@roadtrip4074 4 жыл бұрын

@@pitter_padder Heck yeah! the diagnosing rabbit hole paid off. Glad to help!

@jtjones4727 2 жыл бұрын

I've had to make my own adapter for my 98 Accord with the F23A1. I have the actual adapter that fits the M12 Honda rail, but because of the weird angle when I replace the pulsation damper with the adapter, there's no longer enough room to put the gauge on the schrader valve. I've been having a problem for a couple months now. Every morning when I go to crank it, sometimes its hard to start, and when I put it in Drive it starts sputtering and stalls out below about 780-800 RPMs. If I turn the a/c on, it gets much worse. The pressure specs I have are 47-54 PSi, depending on the pressure regulator. Anyhow, it will prime and jump to 47, and I started it up it was running about 44-45. But the engine was already hot at this point. I left it all hooked up overnight, the next morning I tried to recreate my normal routine. I cranked it up, it was idling at 42 Psi, pretty much locked there. WHen I rev the engine it will vary between 40-42 psi. Well I ordered a new pump assy, here's hoping that fixes it. This engine is freshly built. I did the rebuild about 3400 miles ago.

@barnes29510 3 ай бұрын

I recently changed the fpr and damper on my 2000 3.0 v6 and afterwards my fuel line would vibrate and make a big noise but when the vacuum line (intake side) off everything was normal. I drove it for a few days with the vacuum unhooked and then reattached it and I haven't had any issues since.... I don't know what caused this.... I changed the parts out to start with because of a noticeable skip when I would keep it at a constant rpm... Unfortunately, this didn't fix that.... I changed plugs.... Still no change. So I'm checking the fuel pressure today.... I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere.... If not (being it's not a firing problem) the fuel pump will be replaced. And if it's still acting up I'll check the fuel injectors... What a bad in the ass too lol..

@BradMazur 3 ай бұрын

Luckily the fuel pump isn't that bad to change. Good luck

@zacmich6472 Жыл бұрын

There's a plastic cap on that pressure regulator, I guess you have to remove it to expose the nut and unscrew it?

@BradMazur Жыл бұрын

The pulse damper has a plastic cap on it. There is enough room to slide a 7/8" wrench between the plastic cap and fuel rail to remove it. The regulator has a flange secured by 2 bolts. The regulator doesn't need to be removed for this procedure.

@omaryakymiramontes6464 Жыл бұрын

I have a 2000 honda Accord F23 engine, and i checked fuel pressure at regulator because i don't have a T adapter, but i guess my fuel pump has good pressure cuz it holds 80 psi and i start my car like that and runs good, but after removing fuel pressure gauge and hooking the return line, runs like crap i had to remove fuel injectors and clean the filter atached, hopefully that solves my issue

@omaryakymiramontes6464 Жыл бұрын

I solve my problem by cleaning fuel injectors backwards, y create a connection to make pulses to the ground and spraying carburetor cleaner attached to a syringe and that hooked to fuel injector nozzle, now my car is running strong i hope my experience works for someone else.