1:00 - Perseverance 2:33 - Editing (style, make the most of a scene, tell a story) 5:02 - Learn the weather 6:12 - Is there a subject? 9:02 - Simplify your images 10:14 - Patience, don't rush 11:38 - Become an expert in one area 13:02 - Seek feedback

encouraging to see brilliant people sharing their experience but also admitting their shortcomings with such modesty...great photographer great person....thanks Nigel.

First and sixth points: well made. I live in a very touristy, over-photographed city full of temples and other landscape gardens. Being here every day allows me to come back and re-visit every other time and season. Unfortunately, in terms of engagement on the internet, algorithms seem to prefer the same angles from the same 2-3 spots that everybody else takes all the time. Well... :)

Спасибо за Даню Коржонова и за советы - всё внутри нас!

Excellent video…all very valid points. 👍⭐️⭐️⭐️

In 2019 we were in Dorset and we met Jack Lodge as my friend made friends with him on the net. We met at Corfe Castle and it was awesome. In a week over in Dorset we went 3 times to Corfe Castle hoping for the fog but it never materialised, but we have some good images of the castle.

Thank you Nigel. Great content yet again.

Love this video. Great you even promote other photographers. Shows you're a great person, not only thinking about your own business...👍

I heard or read it on a someones channel somewhere but it stuck....'take a picture with your heart then with your camera', and its true there is no point taking a picture if its something you don't love. Great tips as always Nigel

Useful suggestions. I totally agree with slowing down and taking time visualize the scene. I really look forward to your critiques too.

You will love using the tilt shift Nigel, absolutely love mine and the added capability it gives to my photography

My first and favorite piece of advice I received was "Fill the frame with what you love and leave out the rest." 2nd: If you have a newer camera (20mp or higher, then shoot wider and crop in editing,) 3rd: Keep shooting the sunset until the sun has totally gone down and offers no light. I can't count the times I have made this mistake. I thought I got the best of the sunset and when I look in my rear-view mirror some of the best color and drama is looking back at me and asking, "Why didn't you stay longer?"

Something I learned many years ago when I was learning to fly, my instructor said two words to me - Anticipate, Participate [ 11:27 ]. I now use this in many aspects of my life, including photography. Immerse yourself - great advice Nigel.

Brilliant advices ! Thank you so much !

Very good points. Thx for sharing.

Good to meet you at Padley today, Nigel. Looking forward to the video!

A truly significant discussion .... thanks, Nigel!

I definitely enjoyed this video Nigel. Thank you. I greatly lack surveying a scene patience and need to concentrate on that. I still feel quite awkward when I'm out shooting and there are people around. They don't know how good or bad I am at photography, but I always think they think I am not so good, then I get weirded out and want to leave. How our own feelings can ruin an outing.

That’s an awesome and very useful tutorial Nigel. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for another Great video !! Keep them coming ,

Excellent suggestions Nigel. The two that resonate with me in particular are slow down (more powerful than people might expect) and seek reviews from your peers. Slowing down truly makes a difference in appreciating and immersing yourself in the conditions and potential subject before you. Seeking reviews or critique from peers can be uncomfortable, but so enlightening to learn what others see in your composition that you missed. We do that monthly in our camera club (14 photographers) and show 3 images that people critique...its the most educational part of our gathering. Great suggestions, thanks.

Your last tip, Feedback, is so important. Sometimes we get too close tour work, and can really benefit from another’s viewpoint, just need to not take their criticism personal. It comes down to, be careful what you ask for, you just might get it.

Thanks Nigel, your advice helps me tremendously. I think your Woodland book is great.

Fantastic tips, thank you.

Good advice Nigel but for me personally (at least at this stage in my learning) I actually prefer to be a 'Jack of all trades' in terms of what I shoot as I find it keeps me interested. I have a strong feeling if I concentrated on one type of photography I'd get bored. But I won't dispute if I did concentrate on one genre I'd get better at that until I got bored. BTW - I think you are better than "good"!😀

Great summary Nigel as always

Such a great pack of advices ! I always listen and watch your videos with much interest, Nigel, and i love this one, based on good sense and practical behaviour to success, perfect !

Another great coffee with Nigel morning,!

great tips!!!

Great advice as always, thanks Nigel, can't wait to see you use the tilt-shift lens. Bought one myself about a year ago and haven't regretted it.

I'm jealous of the fact that you live in a place with such a wide variety of atmospheric conditions that yield amazing images. Here in San Diego we generally have two options about 80% of the year: cloudless bluebird skies or completely overcast gray skies near the coast caused by the marine layer (known locally as May Gray and June Gloom). That makes getting motivated to go out a shoot images a challenge. Good advice in the video.

Nigel, as a boy I was lucky enough to very frequently go river fishing in a small rowing boat with a school friend in most weathers out in the countryside on the River Arun. The very quiet tranquility whilst messing about in a boat that I experienced is indelibly marked in me so I’d love to capture ‘tranquility’ in photographs. I love your photograph at 6:53 even though it has no subject but when I look at it I feel immersed in tranquility. It just goes to show you can’t please all the people all of the time!

Great tips. Daniel Kordan blows my mind man, i would love to know how he edits.

Very good tips, thank you! Actually, I was supposed to be out and about and saw your video come up. Living in the Netherlands where there are not really epic landscapes, but living on an island I, like you in the beginning, have actually only photographed the weather and light until now, because the interesting things on the island have already been captured many times. But your tip to make it simpler and your last tip I am going to take with me now. We'll see if I can get myself out of the creative dip. Anyway thank you and have a great Sunday!

Tilt-shift lenses are interesting. I don't have one myself yet, but I have looked a few times at second hand tilt-shift lenses or tilt-shift adapters. So I'll be looking forward with great interest to your videos about your experiments, failures, and successes with this lens!

Nigel, great video! Can you do a new video on what printer you use along with recommendations for someone who may want to start printing on photo paper!

Your videos are inspirational and your humility humbling. Thank you for sharing your superpowers (read skill and experience) in such an easy-to-digest language. Looking forward to your experience of using a Tilt-Shift lens in this genre of photography. 👌

Wooww nice, good job Bro 📸📸📸

Thanks for the video, Tilt shifts work on basic view camera principles, they will help you slow down and think! 24, 45 and 85, been using them for years in field and studio.

this snowy tree in the sunlight is amazing

Good to catch you down at PG on Sunday - apologies if I surprised you as you were heading down to the gate, lol :) Did you manage to get a few good photos - the conditions were great! Terrific video and sound advice as usual. Cheers - Ian

Love your videos Nigel, been watching your channel for a long time and you are such a good teacher! With regards to this one, I cannot stress enough how much the proper weather conditions matter and how long it can take to have the desired conditions. I would be cheeky and add number 8: not getting attached to your photographs (which we all do to some degree). What I mean by that is having the strenght to only select the best photographs you take and be quite critical as I find it to be a good way to improve and aspire to better shots. Sometimes you might like a specific thing/detail in a picture and the rest of it might be just average, but you would be doing yourself a disservice by not being critical and letting it go.

Asking for feedback is always hard. I find if I ask specific questions like "How could this image be better?" or "Should this area be brighter?" gets people talking and not being afraid of giving real feedback, rather than, "Give me your feedback" which inspires polite feedback. Not always what I am looking for. ;-) Good luck next week. Better have an apple handy...

To use tilt with a lot less trial and error until you get the focal plane you want, take a look at what Harold Merklinger wrote about Focussing the View Camera and print yourself a cheat sheet of "hinge line" distances for the lens (I have those glued to that square part on the body of my PC-Es).

Good breakfast thoughts. 👍🥂

Tilt/shift (T/S) - not as easy as you thought. First an issue: 35mm cameras have the lens mount and flange distance that limits a classical T/S working model. A large format camera is just two holders that can be shifted left/right, up down, and rotated (tilted) horizontally and vertically, one for the lens and one for the film back. Aside from the bellows there's nothing in between and for wide angle lenses, "we" used wide-angle bellows. The amount of T/S that we could use depended on the image circle of the lens. Especially in the case of 8"x10" some lenses could only be T/S-ed when you closed down aperture very far. My guess is that a lens design with a fixed back end relative to the film/sensor - cf. tele-converter - is theoretically possible and then the front part could be T/S-ed more than is possible now. Don't think that exists. In the case of the 35mm format T/S lenses, the image circle is not necessarily a problem, but the lens mount/flange distance tunnel makes a limitation. Calling T/S movements "excursions", the next limitation with these 35mm T/S lenses is in the combination of excursions you can make. Generally you can make the Tilt excursion in one vector only and then the Shift perpendicular to that, only. With the Large Format camera, you can make any combination of excursions. That does not make using them easier, by the way The shift adjustments really are used to prevent converging or diverging lines, as in architecture, or e.g. a shot of a person in a mirror without seeing the camera as it is positioned to the side with the lens shifted and thus not revealing that it is to the side. Not visible in landscapes, the shift can prevent tilting the camera away from being perfectly level. The advantage is that hills/mountains do not get depicted with compressed perspective. As your 85mm "portrait" lens for your 35mm format camera has a certain angle of view, you would need a 600mm lens for that angle with 8"*10" (based on the diagonal). This has extremely low Depth of Field (DoF) and sometimes an exposure with f/256 at 100 ISO takes too long. Or your 4,800 Watt.seconds studio pack based strobe is not powerful enough. Here comes the tilt. Often used with 35mm cameras for a tacky "miniature" effect, shift really has interesting "geometry" behind it. Here comes "Scheimpflug's Law". If you studied basic geometry then you know the axiom that says that parallel lines cross at infinity and parallel planes cross in a line at infinity. That is Scheimpflug's base case that works in our cameras: the sensor plane and the plane in the lens's nodal point (perpendicular to the optical axis) in normal cameras are parallel with each other and with the focused-on plane in the subject. Scheimpflug took the geometric axiom and rules of optics that in this normal case we have - being focused - we have a sharp depiction of the focused-on plane in the plane of the film (sensor) and applied it to tilt cases where film (sensor) or lens plane are rotated away from perpendicular to the normal optical axis. When these (extended in our thought) three planes cross in a common line, then we have sharp depiction. This means that we may not need DoF for a sharp image if we can use Scheimpflug's rule. The tilt gives a change of perspective depiction. And the orientation of the DoF changes. In the case of a Nikon T/S lens, there is a procedure to alter the T/S relation from being perpendicular to same direction and formally this should be done by the Nikon service point. However, you may find a video on YT that explains how to do it.

I'm pretty sure I'm a lot older than you. I grew up with film. So I almost never think about editing. I did some darkroom work, and dodged and burned. But I didn't even know I would need to do that until I made a proof print. There were no previews while I was on-scene. Even with a DSLR I have a lifelong habit of trying to get it right in-camera. It took a long time for me to stop being stingy with my shots (because film and processing was expensive). As you say, I do use photoshop just to try to tweak things to recreate what I saw. I think mostly because human eye dynamic range is superior, so the camera doesn't always capture what I saw. But I like your other points. What distinguishes someone like you from me is that you have a better eye for composition than most people. I'm sure I'm not alone when I saw that I appreciate your advice, and I try to watch all your videos.

About the editing... I think that it helps a lot that you use an editor which does the basic rendering for you. The raw images you show aren't quite raw at all. I use Darktable because it's free and very capable. But this is the thing it doesn't do for you: A good starting point. Because the image you start with is really a bit more "raw" than what you begin with in LR.

Great video and tips. Looking forward to you getting critiqued 👍😉

Hey Nigel, was curious about that before and after at timecode 4:11 I don’t see any pink hues in the raw file. Or maybe it’s there but just very subtle. Would love to see how u got from that raw file to the final edit. By any chance can u share that particular raw file. Would love to edit it myself to see if I can get to that final edited image

Nice video

Hi Nigel. Solid advice and some fabulous images. Agree on all points but due to my own failings I don't currently follow your Post Processing (PP) advice. Instead I try to keep PP to a minimum (small tone curve & exposure adj, white bal, crop, noise red when reqd) as my previous attempts did not give natural looking images (my lack of skill) and have invested in top quality lenses so that at least I get excellent colour and contrast OOC . Not the perfect solution I know and I will revisit this aspect in the future. All the best, Rich.

interesting video be good to see how you determine your speciality . I shoot to much would like to specis emor ebut am concerned that i might get stale. Any thoughts Nigel ?

Good review of the main lines we'd like to follow to improve. One tip that I find now a bit hard to follow is specialization, mainly because I'm still searching my voice. I don't know for the rest of the community here, but this is definitely a big struggle for me. However, funnily, now every time I go out to take photos, I do pack 1 or 2 apples ;) Thanks Nigel !

When you talk about simplifying your scene, is it better to capture more in an image and then edit to isolate simple subjects or simplify when capturing the image?

I often go back to the same spot to see if i can get a better shot, yesterday I stopped a a boat landing and as I turned around a Seagull was standing on the fence, literally 6 feet from me and it didn't fly away while putting on my zoom and take a whole bunch of photos. I know I can change a color photo to black & white in photoshop, but I rather switch in the camera so i can compose it with the viewfinder. Best

I loved all these tips! About editing, do you recommend an app like Lightroom?

Good advice. But I think patience will be the toughest because I always think that I will miss out if I don't take photos quickly - like interesting light, or clouds, etc.

Nigel, could you maybe devote a Video on your Mac? I would really like to know how you work but also what you use. Do i Need the latest Mac or can i start with a 5 year old Model. Can i use the IMac screen or is it Not good enough.

Yes you become an expert in a specific..but im bored ..so i just do photography.. landscape... minimal...le... architecture... street of course..nice tips keep up

10:17 It's super easy to say as a landscape-only photographer 😂 Landscapes usually don't just walk away or turn their backs to you (as a wildlife or street photographer).

can i know how to get those bokeh in the foreground, thanks

Art Wolfe said the pro photographer knows when not to shoot. That was more important in film days before we could polish turds in Lightroom. It is still applicable for wildlife backgrounds. I think slowing down is the one I need to work on. Kristi Odom has the advantage of being a female so she asks herself how this potential image makes her feel and then tries to capture that emotion. I am a guy so I how no clue about my feelings.

I wonder why landscape photographers does not use tilt&shift lens often!

I think it's literally physically and mentally impossible for me to get to a location and not shoot for 20 minutes 😅

If I could add one more point: I would love to be able to photograph seascapes and tropical birds on a daily basis, but the realities work and family mean either is between 500 and 5000km away. It doesn't mean there is nothing worth photographing nearby - learn to appreciate what you've got. Not claiming to have mastered this or any of the skills in the video, but I'm working on it.

Everytime I forget you upload on Sundays. It is a pleasure to see the notification!

Not another 7. Why not 5 or 9 it’s always 7…….😊

Can I ask why you have removed the link to all the negative reviews of the company?

That Jack lodge is soo hot right now

I'd like to get a critique from someone on my portrait photography. I enter images into a local camera club but the judges are all ex office /penpushers. I worked over 30 years as an art director so i tend not to respect their judgement on my images.

Nigel, you may be aware however, Keith Cooper has produced this video about using tilt shift lenses (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nc6FhdR1y5vKfY0.html) and has also written a book. Always enjoy your work. Kindest regards.

I've been watching your job for awhile and it's quite impressive :) I have a side question tho and I haven't found the right video to post it so I'm taking advantage of this one to do it hehe. By anu chance do you wear gloves for shooting in cold weather? I'm currently living in a cold place but I come from tropical weather so when I have my hands uncovered they froze very quickly. I'd really would appreciate any feedback regarding this topic :) btw..before I forget: thanks a lot for the content you're posting in your channel :)

I guess we all coming here thinking that we will learn something that we know already 🤭😁 it's like with loosing weight we know exactly how to but for some reason can't do it lol 🤭😁

☺️ Pᵣₒmₒˢᵐ

When you look at reviews of MPB they aren't good!

Enjoy photography by itself, and if you want to make a living from It, open a KZfaq Channel and organise workshops as son as you have reached a Minimum of subscribers and views.

Lies. No way YOU look up to other photographers.