it’s a balance trying to show the basics, explain what’s happening and field comments saying ‘well that doesn’t look very fast’ lol… it was nice here to have the opportunity to show it done slowly and under control as opposed to a ….. ‘normal gybe’ ;)

:) well you can see it doesn’t work out perfectly as the main goes over out of sequence but at least you can get the idea :)

@@CSMtheMariner I have seen many skilled people 'shutdown' when asked to explain what they are doing at the same time as they do it.

necessity - the economic downturn meant that we did not have enough crew signed up to make the trip. however, it was pretty fun as well….. :)

Two things are happening in this gybe, the squall has just passed through and there is a wind shift associated with that which is driving the boat into the gybe prematurely and as you correctly point out, I am instructing and generally just taking it easy so the gybe is very slow and relaxed. In reality when executing this maneuver on the Open 60 with a full main I would often wet the mainsheet down prior to the gybe to keep the rope cool and stop it glazing as the main goes through and the sheet gets eased at high speed onto the other tack- i.e everything happens much much faster.

@@CSMtheMariner Expected as much. Nice job……er.. gybe regardless. So, running backs don’t faze you, eh?

the Raymarine autopilot can indeed maintain a heading that precludes gybing accidentally BUT on a big boat with the wind instruments so far aloft I have found it can make mistakes when sailing VERY deep with waves rolling the boat around. my tactic therefore as you have correctly identified is to monitor and manage the course manually.

Hey Arsho, great comment:) The good thing here is that we already have the answers regarding how many turns on a winch and when to use them. 1 turn- stripping turn used when the rope is going to go out, off the winch- helps remove twists from the rope. 2 turns- used when pulling in the line very quickly - for example when tailing the winch during a sail hoist - won’t ever get an over ride. 3 turns - minimum required to gain friction on the winch for grinding, may override lightly but will pull out 90% of the time- used for bringing in a jib/spin sheet where the winch needs to start turning during the hauling in process to supply mechanical advantage. 4 or more - after 3 any number of turns will override but very turn added increases friction and allows the winch to ‘grip’ the line and protect the trimmer from the working load on the line. Lastly, max turns. On a boat with a $100,000+ winch package (originally) the emphasis on ‘lightweight’ means there would be no more extra material in the winch than absolutely necessary. The working loads on the jib of this boat are upwards of 2,500kgs even with the little J5 working- having protection from that load as a trimmer is absolutely imperative so max turns are always employed for final trim. (as a reference - 14mm Dyneema line like this has a breaking strain of over 10,000kg / 22,000lbs)

@@CSMtheMariner Nah, I never put more than three turns on a winch to ensure no over ride then up into the self trailer . Maybe four turns when it’s blowing and you’re sailing upwind. You were off the wind, two turns. If you’re racing, too many turns will spell disaster in a blow when you’re in a tacking duel. And, god damned self tailing witches are a bitch when you need to clear in a tight tacking duel. I much prefer to never clear a sheet tail under those circumstances

also have max turns on the winch for safety