I know right! It was funny, because one time taking milky way photos, I kept getting blurry photos. Even at 50mm and 5 seconds, the stars were slightly trailing and had a weird streak pattern to them. Turns out, on my Sony, I had IBIS enabled, and when I shut it off, the stars were perfectly round. It took me a couple sessions to figure out, but eventually after digging around on DPReview and doing my own testing, I figured it out! Oh what a great feeling, lol. But yeah, the moral of the story is, lens and sensor stabilization can do funky things when the camera isn't moving, because even the wind hitting the back of the camera or a slightly unlevel tripod can cause the internal stabilization systems to go haywire.

Yeah, especially in landscapes, whenever I hear advice to use apertures around f16 or f22, I cringe, because using those apertures will actually give you softer images than photos shot around f4 or f5.6. The only issue that arises with using apertures in that range is DOF can become an issue, but focus stacking completely resolves this problem...

Do you mean night photography (astro) or more along the lines of low-light portraits/events?

Apalapse low light portraits..., broo

I'll definitely look into making a video on that. Portraits aren't really my forte, but I'm always eager to learn a new genre and help others out.

Apalapse thanks broo❤️

Sorry for the late response, just seeing a lot of comments now. That's great to hear, the Nikon D600 is an awesome camera. I'm glad the videos are helpful and feel free to ask for help if you need it or if you encounter any problems or struggles you think could be turned into a video, let me know! Good luck!

Thanks!

Thanks!

That's good, thanks for watching!

You're not wrong in that increasing aperture increases sharpness, but the common mistake beginners make is cranking the aperture all the way to the smallest value, expecting their images to be tack sharp. Diffraction is very real, and especially in high-quality lenses, it can have a huge effect on image quality.

Thanks for watching. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you for watching and commenting. I am glad you found my video helpful!

Thanks, Michelle! I hope my videos help!

Your point about contact is partially correct. You are right in that you want both hands in contact with the camera but you do NOT want to be gripping it with your palms. This will transfer huge amounts of shake into the camera body. Cranking up the ISO to decrease exposure time will reduce motion blue. Even though the noise WILL be increased, noise reduction algorithms have evolved to the point where it will not hamper image quality much. Motion blur on the other hand, there is no program or software that can remove that... so I would rather have a noisy sharp image than a blurry one with slightly less noise. Sharp images are necessary. A photo that is obviously soft will be distracting, and while a good story can often offset this, the fact remains that the technical side of photography is still important.

You could try and find others with the same lens to compare sharpness with, otherwise, you could rent the same lens and test it against your own. Sample variation is a real problem in lenses, and while however rare, some lenses may be de-centered, resulting in soft photos. You can perform de-centering tests online relatively easily. If you are thinking of upgrading lenses, I can't recommend renting lenses enough. Let me know how those tests go and if you have any more questions!

Apalapse thank you, those are some great tips, I'll rent a couple of lenses and do some tests i need to buy a new lens for sure.

This is where lens construction comes into play, and expensive gear. There are lenses that can drop down to F1.8 and still be razor sharp. Usually these are prime lenses with fixed focal lengths, and can create really nice bokeh and blur for objects out of focus. Very common with portrait and product photography.

That would definitely help!

Personally I prefer : ISO 100 F8 1/200 s - at least. Better 1/1000 s.

Keeping ISO low would have been a good tip to include, and I'll probably make another video with more tips later. Thanks for the suggestion.

Those sound like good settings for sharp photos!

👍

lol

Thanks!!!

Justin That helped, big time. I was unaware of the fact that the mirror needs to flip up before the shutter opens and vice versa. Thanks a lot friend :)

Justin so how about in case of mirrorless cameras? Im a beginner and i own a mirrorless one only

:)