For those who are thinking about doing this; there is a ring compressor that fits in between the case and cylinder block, this will allow the rods to be installed on the crank without the need to have the cylinder block interfering with the rods. By doing it the easy way you can install the block and head with the engine in the upright position.

One of the best channels on youtube! Hackaweek, you inspired a friend of mine and I to buy an old DOHC CB750 '80 that had seized up. We've been following your vids as we rebuild! Owner said it could have seized due to a stuck valve or rusted cylinder--we opened her up to discover it was BOTH! ha! Thanks so much man, can't wait for the next one!!!

Cut 8 pieces of 3/8 or 1/4 fuel line, about 4-6 inches long. Slip the fuel line pieces over the rod bolts, to protect crank, and help guide the rods onto the crank journal. After all rods are over journals, slip fuel line off and complete assembly. Wink, old school trick.

Oh, right, sir! Keep up the good job, sir! You're the best of the best! 👌👌👌💯💯💯

Phew that was so tense and exciting! Well done xx

YEAH! building the bike again! liked before even watching it ;) i love the build series

you were going to let us know in this video why we shouldn't make lines on the piston heads with graphite pencils but should use sharpies as well (from the last video). Thanks and I love this series.

Thank you for you videos! I am learning so much from your work. The only thing that I long for more than a HBO tv-show every week is your next episode.

over here we build the bottom seal it close it tighten it and use gravity to drop the top end on but never loaded the pistons in the jugs first the giant chambfer on the bottom of the cylinders are to compress the rings

Grate job as always!

Great vids Dino. Stumbled across your channel via one of the cafe racer forums. been hooked ever since, great builds, great info and down to earth character...........keep em coming. best of luck from over here in the UK

Terrific programing, hoping your next project is an early 80's R100. Cheers from Alberta.

@ Dean Segovis I found this on a webpage called rrconnectingrods. "1. My Aluminum Connecting Rods are stretched. Answer: Myth. Many people say their Aluminum Connecting Rods have stretched. They actually grow while hot and contract to their original length when cooled back to room temperature. The only way they can become longer is if they are deformed or fractured either from an engine failure or past their end of life cycle." Also, i think it would be easier to do it the other way around. Crank down and install cylinders and the lower pistons in from top. Also, you look like Jethro Gibbs from NCIS :)

If you end up having to do this again what you should do is push your pistons/rod combo up in the cylinder further so that you can seat the head, and afterwards you can flip the assembly and push the pistons/rods down on the crank.

Just letting you know I gave this video THUMBS UP. Thanks

Thanks for going with the aluminum connecting rods... for science.

love the work you're doing great detail. on the primary chains I think they have to go staggered. my not be a big deal

moving forward bro!

thank you from portugal

in Honda Factory they're also put the engine up side down to install the piston in an inline four actually , I have seen they did it in a video somewhere on KZfaq.

Thanks for your instruction video.

Bravo for doing that assembly process without one curse word. (There has to be an easier way to get those 2 pieces together. That looks like a pain in the butt.)

Instead of greasing the con rod screws to keep them in place, use a piece of hose on the threaded end. The hose will then protect the crank from getting scratched during assembly.

Cool hair cut

Assemble the crankshaft and rods. Lay the top half case onto the fully assembled bottom half. Lay the engine flat with the rods lying flat. Mate the barrel up with the pistons in the barrel. Ensure the pin and one circlip [should be the one furthest from centre] is removed from each piston. Rotate the crank with the two centre rods are at tdc. Carefully push the pistons into position and mate with the rods, replace the pins and circlips. Then do the two outside pistons. Waaaaay easier than this.

As you were inching things together I was thinking a scissor jack like the one they include with spare tires and a small block of wood might have helped as a "third hand". Maybe...

Hi Dino first of all thanks for the nice and helpful video's!! i was wondering how the aluminum conection rod's have worked out for you, after putting some mile's on them?

nli need to replace the head gaskets of my 750. what video is more helpful?

Dude hat guy you're going to have to order a custom gasket and the thickness must be correct for the rod stretch during normal operating temperatures

Love the video series! One thing you might want to consider if you ever do the upside-down installation of pistons again: why not take a bottle jack and place that beneath the head. Then have the bottle jack raise the head (use a piece of wood or something to protect the head) into place hydraulically? Should leave your hands more free once the studs start going into the appropriate holes and make it easier to get the rods/chain/etc sorted. Just a thought.

how about using zip ties or string or something to center the rods so they were pointing straight up as you were lifting the them up into the case?

This is also how I started my gasket company now vintage CB 750com for all the Honda parts you can find or want now we make the gaskets and custom cylinder head gaskets all you need to do is call us get online contact our staff and will have the right part to your front door

I wouldn't think that connecting rods would stretch due to use, as they are subject to compressive force more than anything. It is valid that with the high heat inside the engine that they might expand enough to cause an issue though.

i thnk the good way is to take out first the crankshaft set aside ,then put the cyl.and rods,put them at the position and after that put the crankshaft,sory for my english,

I'm considering rebuilding my CB 750. I've found these video's to be very inspirational.I subscribed to your channel, But I couldn't find the one you did in regaurds to knotching the cylinder sleves to fit those Rods. I don't recall you giving the nessasary measurement for the amount of material you took off the sleve? 1/4", 3/4". 1", How much was it? Thanks for these videos.

😎 Cool

hello. Hopefully you can help answer my question. I've got a 1980 CB750F super sport and I am doing an engine rebuild. My connecting rod bolts (for 1979-1983) have been discontinued and was wondering if I can use the 1978 one? or am I essentially hooped? best to just clean the crankshaft best I can without disassembling it? Thanks.

you're probably be just fine...but.. aluminum has no fatigue limit, which means even small stress amplitudes will eventually cause the material to fail. Google "Aluminum fatigue limit" and check the wikipedia entry for it.. shows steel vs Al... interesting stuff.. pretty nice build, super clean assembly...

that prerun oil looks like grape jelly lol

I'm wondering why the pistons can't go in down from the top like car engines. That'd make assembly a lot easier.

I have what may have already been asked but..... What would you do if, after you assembled the cylinders on the upper engine case and plastiguaged the rod bearings to the journal and then found the oil clearance to be incorrect? My point is that I've turned wrench on Honda motorcycles for 35 years and NEVER saw 750 cases assembled that way!

Couldn't you bolt the cylinders to the block half and then put the pistons in and push them to the crank (like in a normal car engine build)? That would let you worry about the chain, gaskets, and chain tension/guides, without the hassle of the connecting rods. Is there something I am missing that makes this not work?

Have you figured out what to do if it, by now?

I'm wondering if that was the correct way to set the lock tabs, in my mind, and experience with other styles of lock tabs, you would have bent the long end down the side of the rod and then bent the corners up against the flats on the nuts, I mean how does bending one side up like that stop the rest of the tab from spinning? I believe the point of a locking tab on a fastener is to lock onto something, and the fastsner.

Unfortunately the faster compression settings have left a lot of artifacts. Otherwise, good vid as usual.

Hey man, love the vids! I may have missed it but are you doing any work on the transmission?

why can't they make motors like the Subaru 1.8 and 2.2 that's non interference type, so even when the timing belt snaps no valves are damaged

Wow you made that hard, doing it like that

Why are you building the engine upside down

mc rods do stretch nothing you can do to measure when cold double cyl base gasket was the cure but you had to mill head and jug anywhere from 10.000 20.000 to bring back compess ratio valve to piston clearance witch should safely be 25.000 use the clay method

Hi! Why is there o-rings at the cylinderbase?

those are pretty chunky H- beam rod’s i doubt they will stretch to the point of interference. maybe if you were twisting the piss out of it all day every day... 🤷🏻‍♂️ you never know unless you got the balls to try it.😃👍

not a chance they stretch

Bump your noggin, Dino?

Thanks for the videos, these are so awesome and help me soo much in my project. Question: why didnt you consider the cylinder o-rings? See item #9 on the schematic www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750-four-k4-1974-usa_model482/partslist/E++05.html#results. Because if they are vital I would have to pull back the cylinders.

In this vid we're told that there are those who believe that forged rods will stretch, think about it for a minute and you may see the flaw in their thinking; RODS ARE STRUCTURAL MEMBERS THAT ARE UNDER COMPRESSION, so how can they stretch?

Please help myanmar luncave

Time to update your copyright bug!

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