Thank you. I hope it helps. You know, you can also do a top bar in this without a full frame if you have to for a while. Then you can add frames as you like. Just keep the top bars about 1" wide and leave them at about 1-3/8" to 1-1/2" on centers and it will be compatible.

That's the easiest way to address this. I need to update this.

Exactly. Quick and dirty, not great craftsmanship. This is so a person can make a cheap, fast version to get started or try a different size. Or if a person doesn't have lots of skills or tools.

Thank you for the compliment. Be sure and work on the measurements for your equipment. I had a couple a little off, but you always just measure what you have and what you want to mate up with. Happy beekeeping!

I've been thinking on this. I don't know if I need to reshoot or edit this one. It's not as simple as dimensions. I need to walk through how you figure it out for your personal set of circumstances, design idea and materials.

This please 🙏🏽 ❤

I hear you. I need to do that. I'll do an update.

This is a quick and dirty top. If you want, paint it.

Joseph, I'm new at seeing comments on past videos. When it comes to a Langstroth, using 3/4" material the outside should be 19-7/8" long, meaning the inside will be 18-1/8". What I have found in personal experience since making this video is that you're better off to just try and keep all those interior measurements close to the same. So your outside (if you're using 1/2" ply) will be 19-1/8". That's not great for stacking on other boxes. So I like to cut an additional piece of 1/2" ply and attach to the front and back exterior at the bottom, so it sits on tops of the other boxes easier and seals things up. No, telescoping lids might not fit it, but I have gone away from them. Plus this is kind of a get you by idea until you decide if this is the type box you want and what you're going to do on lids. Hope that helps.

When I look at your measurements, I thank God for the metric system.

@@benilang5391 I can understand that. I've lived life using it in construction so that it doesn't bother me, but it wouldn't bother me either to use metric.

Use a speed square on the inside. This is a quick and dirty. It can be a touch out of square. I'm trying to make this as simple as possible for folks to knock them together quick and easy. They won't last as long as good wood, but lets you get a house quick and cheap and try different configurations without a huge upfront investment. Thanks for your comment.

Also, as noted in the vid, when you add that handle/frame stop on the front and back, if all your cuts are square and you flush everything well, they work to self-square themselves.

Every hive is going to be different. I will address the priniciples of how to determine this.

I appreciate the feedback. The top is a dual use bottom board OR top. I was endeavoring to eliminate different pieces of equipment. As you'll notice, the side boards are a little longer in case you make a different box style a touch longer. As you look at this design, it's a very basic design, not built for aesthetics but for functionality. The bees don't care how it looks. All they care is if it keeps water off their heads/brood. You can put on lids made with big cracks in them and the bees don't care, they just fill them in with propolis to their liking. The idea behind this entire video was not for the most attractive build, but for one that got the job done with a minimum of investment in tools and materials.