I just got to say man, thank you for this video. I used it last year on an LX 450 and just used it today on my new 80 series. Very thorough and all the tips made a big difference.

9 year old video, and still helpful! Thanks for doing this for all us land cruiser junkies!

I would love to get my '95 that clean. You do a great job.

Just did this fix on my 94. I had exactly the same screw problem in the same location. Fortunately the bit came out and I was able to drill it and undo the stud without going through hours of headache. Thanks for the video! It helped out tremendously. I've been frustrated with the dripping oil for years. Now its clean and I can park on my driveway again. I think between my son & I we spent 8 hours doing the work. We didn't do anything with the distributor since it was done last year. Nor did we change the main seal behind the harmonic balancer. All our time was spent on that pesky oil pump seal. I'm so glad I found this video. You are great at explaining and showing the details needed to do a job. Thanks again.

I really enjoyed watching this video as my 97 is leaking in the same places. Very informative. Thanks!

About to do my '95 and this is by far the best video I found. Extremely thankful that you took the time to post this. I hope you keep posting videos of your Land Cruiser fixes as I'm never getting rid of mine and want to learn from you. Thanks again

Fabulous video ! I admire you work and explanations of all aspects of the work. Well done ! It inspires me to tackle my own oil leaks on my 96 Land Cruiser at 195000 miles.

Great video. I just picked up a 93 fzj80 and will most likely. e utilizing your videos. thanks for taking the time to make it.

Wow. What a great video. Been looking for something like this for ages. Now whether I tackle any of this is another story. Good to know some of the oil leak areas.

This helped my dad alot, he thought he had to change the crank sharp front seal, but after seeing the video he knew it was the oil pump gasket. Thanks for the video, you saved my dad a couple chromosomes.

Clay, I appreciate the video. My '94 was leaking in all the same places. I'm in the midst of a mild restoration and your video was very helpful. Thanks!

was about to do my LX450 same seals, the tips and technical editing that you show is priceless will save me ton of time - BIG thank to You camera Man and All who did this fantastic video. God Bless!

Just finished replacing the o-ring on the shaft of the distributor on my 94'. It went very smooth and I'm going to tackle the the other oil leaks next week. Thanks for the posts Clay and couldn't have done it without you!

It's been said but want to say this is the one of the best and most informative vids I've watched. Recently purchased an fj80 and I def have the oil leak issues. This will def help me save some money. Great vid and thank u sir for taking the time to do it.

Thank you for this video.. I'm about to do my Distributor O-ring on my 97 and this video is very helpful. thank you again!

Guys, thanks for all the compliments on this video; it is certainly one of my most watched videos and it sounds like it's been helping a lot of Land Cruiser owners to fix those pesky leaks. I've hit 1900 subscribers and I plan to do a give away of some sort at the 2000 mark, so stay tuned to the channel and tell someone about it if it may help them out! Take care, Clay

Thanks Clay. I've been in the process of base lining my 93 for the past year. Oil pump cover O ring and new screws have been sitting in a drawer for months. Once I found out the local guy wants to charge me $950 to do this job, I decided it's time to tackle it myself. I'll keep you posted. Keep up the great work!

This is a great video, Clay. Thanks so much for putting this together. Your detailed instructions are going to be very helpful for me when I tackle this job in a couple of months.

Great video. Found it while searching for info as I was replacing radiator and water pump. Got a similar leak on my 94 FZJ80 with 250000 km on it, so after watching this and while radiator is out I will have a crack at exactly what you've done. Thanks for the video.

Well done. Keep the LC running. This really helped me. And very good explanation

This is incredibly helpful, one of the best diy videos I've seen.

Excellent material! Together with the mud write-up I am ready to heal my LX450 from leaking on my driveway!

Your video was very helpful, thank you for taking your time to do that. Anyone reading this, my only mistake in doing the job was not taking the battery box out in the beginning. I thought I could do it with it in, but ended up wasting more time trying to work around it then the 5-10 minutes to remove it. Also, I was lucky, no broken bits or fasteners, used a new impact grade #3 drive, and new replacement screws. My fan blade nuts were pretty shot so hindsight it would have been nice to put 4 new ones on, will have to do that soon. Thanks again.

Excellent, excellent video. I will be tackling this project soon. Thanks for all the tips and tricks.

Just did the o ring seal & front main seal man, thank you so much for the video. Helped me 1000%

Excellent walk through. You nailed all the areas where someone could screw this up. It will definitely save me tons of time. Thank you (and your brother).

Man oh man - thanks for listing all the part numbers as well. Made it easy as pie to go online and get em ordered. Now, along with your KZfaq expertise, I feel confident going into this. Bueno!

i have the same cruiser and it leaks as hell, this video made my day, i will order orings and tooling for this job and will fi it, thanks for tips, great job!!!!

Man you really should tackle it before the winter. I'm so glad I fixed these leaks - been leak-free ever since this was done/filmed. Great feeling. Thanks for watching and the kind comments! Clay

Glad it was helpful Marco! Your driveway will certainly be thankful and look much better! Take Care, Clay

A1leejack, Appreciate that. This was a very satisfying repair as it make an immediate difference not leaking on the driveway! Take Care, Clay

From Frank in Outback (Broken Hill), Australia: G'day mate.., thanks for your videos, they've been very helpful, and informative. I would like to apologise in advance for the length of this post, but please bear with me. I own a 1995, 80 series Cruiser, with over 400,000kms on the clock. The engine had never been touched from the time it was built (Sept 1995), until Sept 2020. Effectively, I was pretty well forced to conduct a complete top-end rebuild late in 2020 (head-gasket, head-shave, valve-grind, timing chain, etc.), basically everything short of the pistons and big-end bearings, all of which (surprisingly), were in really good condition. It's just as well that I did give the old girl an overhaul, because with the amount of oil leaks, and built-up, burnt oil everywhere and on every surface, I'm astounded that it still fired up. Several gallons of degreaser, thinners, and much scraping with chisels later, I managed to get it all cleaned out. Regarding the distributor, I have been getting oil inside the unit, and it wasn't until I saw this video, that my suspicions about an internal shaft seal, were confirmed. The main problem with oil inside the distributor is that, as the shaft and rotor button spin, they literally atomise the oil, and spread it all over the magnets, cables, and spark-plug terminals. This causes no end of shorting out, and then mis-firing and back-firing, to the extent that the car won't run. I haven't been able to find anywhere here (in Oz), that I can obtain a new seal for the shaft, so I'm installing a new, complete distributor assembly (at least I'll have some spare bits if the new one plays up.!). Regarding the Harmonic Balancer bolt, and its removal and reinstallation. I appreciate the demonstration with the 3/4" breaker bar, however, it can be a bit dodgy if it slips, with the potential to hurt yourself. I had a mate manufacture a tool that would bolt onto the pulley, and would jam hard against either side of the engine bay. Without wishing to promote another mechanic's site, I found the design for the tool on the 'OTRAMM' site, on the video explaining how to replace the Oil Pump Cover Seal, and the Front Crank Shaft Seal. Basically, the tool is a circular piece of 1/4inch steel, with a hole in the centre, large enough to fit the 30mm socket that's needed to access the HB bolt. It's made to fit inside the outer rim of the HB pulley, and has 2 holes drilled in it, which match up with the bolt holes on the HB pulley. There is a length of 1/4inch steel bar, welded to the circle, slightly bent, so that it can rest against the wheel arch on either side of the engine bay, depending whether or not, you are removing or installing the bolt. It looks like a long, heavy steel lollipop with a hole in the middle. I have to say that it's brilliant.! I also found out that the reason that the HB bolt must be torqued down to 312ft/lbs, is that the drive gear at the rear of the HB pulley, drives the oil pump, and in turn, the power-steering pump. If the HB bolt in not torqued to 312 ft/lbs, the friction ('crush' pressure), required between the back of the HB pulley, and the crank/timing gear drive gear (inside the timing chain cover), will not be enough, and the oil pump will slip and not engage, nor will the power-steering pump. Just as an aside, when I was re-assembling the engine, I used a high temperature sealer on every surface, even when there new gaskets installed. It was the same sealer that is used on the sump pans (recommended by Toyota). The end result is that there are no leaks anywhere.., so far. Thank you again for your videos.., I'll keep watching with interest.

Man, oh man! Awesome video! The job went exactly as you demonstrated in the video. I used a ratchet to take out the 7 screws so I could really take my time and feel if they were about to strip. Didn't strip any of them and my 97 LC has 284,000! Did break a post on the water pump that holds the fan on....lol not in the video I guess. My favorite part was the breaker bar against the frame. Thank you for making this video. Ever in Reno, NV, I'll certainly buy you a beer!

Thanks for doing this video! I always enjoy your Texas knowhow. BTW that type of pump used for the oil pump here is called a progressive cavity pump. Stone reliable. Thanks again!

thank you. about to tackle mine. got pretty much everything, just finding time to do it. great content.

thank you Sir for the video! I have a '93 80 series.. and has a bunch of oil leaks. This video may be the answer. thanks again

@braknstuf, glad it helped you man. The greatest compliments are those where someone was able to succeed and it was our efforts that played a part in some way! Glad the repair went well and your 80 is in better shape now. Take care, Clay

Great video! Thanks for making this how-to video. Keep the 80 how-to videos coming please.

Great material. I have a '96 LC and it's leaking real bad. This vid will come in handy. Nice, clear instruction. Subscribed!

Awesome video, man. I need to do this on my '96. Been watching the oil leaking for like 2 years now and getting pretty tired of it.

Excellent video. Seems like getting the crank bolt to break with your method…a threshold moment for sure. Made me nervous. I have a diesel 80 so a different set up but hopefully someday I will be able to a gas powered 80 owner. Thank you for posting.

good to hear! Glad the video was helpful. Take Care, Clay

Thanks for the tips Clay. A buddy and I are about to tackle the front crankshaft seal on his 75' land cruiser.

Thank you for the super clear instructions. Learned a lot.

God bless you mate! Just the right info I needed to fix my leaks👍👍👍👍

Wonderfull video..I am a new 80 owner... Thank's for it

@Sergey, Thanks man! This video has been helping several others as well. The fixes can be intimidating until it's broken down for you and that was my intent with this video. I also wanted to say thanks to you for recognizing the camera work. My son is really coming into his own with the Videography and knows what I need him to do in terns of zoom or not with no queuing from me. He was happy to see the recognition. ;) Take care my friend, Clay

Man, your videos are amazing! Wish you had more to be honest. Thanx! 🤙🏻

Thank you for sharing this video. It was an easy project, thanks to you

Great work, I have been putting of doing this until now. Great help seeing it done.

awesome video...I don't even have a land cruiser yet...good tips for the 80 series...now I got to buy a TLC...so I can do this job! thanks.

Maaaan.. I could hug you. great videos. Already helped out a bunch.

Clay really great job with this video. Watched it twice and things went like clockwork. I especially appreciate you breaking off the same oil pump cover bolt I did! I picked up the tool you recommended in advance and had that bolt out in about 15 minutes. Seeing as you saved me $1000 at the local shop I owe you at least a case of beer next time your up in Seattle! Looking forward to seeing other LC videos from you. Andy1997 LC

after further investigation, it turns out the sound is coming from left side if engine bay...the culprit...alternator...bearings are failing. also came across timing cover leak as well. I thought maybe oil filter wasn't tightened properly, or maybe oil pan gasket failing. thanks, friend. keep coming with the good info. these a land cruisers are magnificent specimens of engineering

One trick I learned when removing covers/parts with multiple fasteners is to break each bolt loose then replace them until you break them all free. Then go back and take them all out. This ensures the load isn't increased on the last bolt to come out.

Great video and thank you. I too have been putting this job off. I've read a lot on the IH8MUD forum but was still thinking I'd have to pull the radiator. And now I understand what the 14mm socket trick is. Maybe all the oil I'm seeing is coming from the front and not the rear main seal.

awesome video my 97 land cruiser leaks really bad as well and it looks as if its from the spots you tackled in the video so i think ill try this in the near future

Thanks man! It was a lot of footage and some serious post shoot editing but it finally came together. Thanks for telling me about the PS pump as well. No problem posting on Mud at all. Take care, Clay

Excellent video. Thank you. I am about to do the same job and this helps and gives me confidence.

Great Video- Thanks for taking the time to record this!

Excellent video...for whatever reason I can never picture the procedures when reading the walk through. I was not at all confident in doing this job and was starting to think I would be paying toyota 1200.00. After seeing this video, I am confident, and looking forward to this (unless bolts start to strip). Thanks again....you will have saved me 1194.00-I have to but the size 3 Phillips bit!

Great video bro. I'm planning on using it this summer to repair my fj80.

Texas, I sware you are my new BEST friend!! I just got got those damn cover screws out and it wouldn't have happened without you. Yes I stripped 2 of them and the extraction kit you recommended worked wonders. I saved about $500 doing this myself and I'm going to spend that money on a new gun tomorrow! If you're ever in Utah, I want to buy you a Root Beer. Thank-you!!!! Jed

Dude.. Thank you for making this vid! Just awesome to be able to follow your video as I went alogn and did all the seals! I owe you a few beers if you are in Arizona some day!

@Benchandler80, Thanks for watching and for letting us know if was helpful - hope your repairs go well! Take care, Clay

kool video. im putting hex head flange bolt on that oil pump cover when i do mine.

That's about the cleanest engine bay I've ever seen in one of these

Thanks Pedro! Glad you liked it. Clay

Very informative. Top notch narrative.

thanks for the video, i'll be doing these soon, possibly the PS pump and/or gear box and the timing chain slipper tensioner... debating pulling the whole motor since I hear I have to pull the head to get the front cover off. I've got twice as much oil under mine and had to scrape the front to see the timing marks! Subscribed!

Those Milwaukee lithium tools are the cats meow, I tried the 3/8 drive 12v ratchet wrench and loved it, so I went out and got the 18v 1/2inch impact wrench, my air tools don't see any use now. On those stubborn screws, I think I would pull the radiator for something like that, being able to get at it straight on really helps, then use an impact driver...the type that you hit with a hammer ( $25 at Sears). Or resort to the blue wrench, propane heat solves many problems. :)

Dude. Great video. Very well explained.

Thank you!! This was a great vid!!

Thanks. You explained that really well. Subscribing today. 👍🏽

Man cool video my friend . what a great job

It worked! Thanks for this video... we did seals too :)

Very informative video man, good job. I think I decided that I’m going to pull my engine out. Don’t want to but it’s coated in oil and I feel like it would just be easier to clean all the mess😩😩😩

thanks for the video man, it made me aware of you can strip those oil cover screws, i got them all off , i removed the radiator though and , got impact driver and smashed the screws it wasnt easy as the impact driver i had didnt do the job however smashing the would not do any harm, then i took the 3 mm bi8t out of the impact driver and used a spanner on the end, i cracked them all off man they were hard it had taken me an hour to get them off because i did take my time as i didnt want to strip them, all good though cracked them all, taking your time is important with those screws, really though thanks for the video it made me aware before i did the job

Thanks man. That was a difficult filming due to the constrained area and just all the steps, etc. Appreciate the comment. Clay

I love you my Texas man. THANK YOU!!!

Thank you, this video was very helpful.

Currently attemtping this along with spark plug tube gaskets. Waiting for part... yesterday i stripped a couple of my #3ph screws on the oil pump and broke two #3ph heads.... lol jesus u make it look easy. Amy advice? Im doing everything u did, scraping, and sprayed carb cleaner to get the gunk out. And also used an impact tool, but not an electic one.

Excellent video. The information do you provide trough the video was grateful and help me a lot................Thanks, HMA

Awesome video mate, I’ll be doing this very soon 👍🏻

Clay; It's very excellant and Nice video. I agree with Jason Sigmon about using a hand impact driver, we are using a hand impact driver in aircraft maintenance procedures ( daily process ) . You should use Anti-seize compound . Thanks; Hajazi Aseil, an Arab aircraft engineer and FAA, A&P, IA inspector

Yeah, I may be in Utah on Business from time to time so I'll look you up Jed! Maybe we can go wheelin in your Land Cruiser! Glad the video helped you out and thanks for commenting and letting us know you enjoyed it. Those screws are a bear for sure. Oh, and thanks for subbing! Take Care, Clay

THANK YOU! I am about to remove my engine on my 96 cruiser.. This gives me a good heads up.

I finish the job an 36 hours, because I broke one radiator fitting. But, I use my ingénue and fixed.1-I installed an auxiliary cool systems for the transmission oil.2-I replace the two fittings with two nuts and washers.3-Also I used two rubber washers,, like same you will found an hose garden.4-I drove my LC 80 for 5 hours and everything was ok.5-I put back the same radiator with my invention.Thanks ..................

Great video. Informative. Thanks

This is exceptional!

Man this is a fantastic video!

Great video

I hear you Jake, I will be releasing more vids in the near future, I've done the diff oil change & transfer case - just need to wrap up the post processing and get it up here. The coolant drain and replace is really easy one, I did that to base-line my 80S when I got it a little over a year ago. I also flushed it with a simple kit from the auto parts store. highly recommend this BTW. Thanks for the comments, take care, Clay

Wow great video!! Keep it up!

Thanks mate, great video!

Thanks for letting know you enjoyed it Mikey! Be sure to subscribe, we'll be posting more as we can. Take care, Clay

You're welcome. ...and what is subbing anyway?? Also wanted to mention I thought I would try cracking the crank pulley bolt with my good old American made (Proto) 1/2" drive breaker bar just to see if I would get lucky.... Nope. Snapped the end right off. You really do need a 3/4" breaker bar to bust that puppy loose. Just watched your canister swap and I think that's the next fix on my list. Thanks again, Jed

Another great video, Thanks!

It would be interesting to see the replacement crankshaft rear oil seal!

very good video Texas