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Maybe it's just me, but I had figured most of this stuff out myself. A couple other tidbits he didn't mention are, when entering the cut, I manually lift the blade guard, until the guard is on top of the work, so "bumping" the guard against the work doesn't cause a wiggle at the entry. The biggest thing is, I guide the front of the saw with my thumb on the side of the shoe...and yes, I still have all my fingers. This gives the front more stability when super straight cuts are needed. I ripped down a couple old solid wood doors, free hand, for my son's house this weekend. I don't think we could have cut them much straighter on a table saw without a BIG table.

@@PayNoTaxes0GetNoVote these are some key things imo that should have been added to the video👍. I do the exact same thing when cutting kitchen counters, doors etc freehand. Its funny that I also had to figure that out for myself just like you😁. The only thing people told me about freehand cutting as an apprentice carpenter was to watch the blade/teeth instead of the guide. It would have helped me tremendously if I had been given these pointers at that time.

agreed. using a circ saw since 1979. i'd say though, when cutting a short(er) freehand line, set up with two hands on the saw and do not use your arms - position yourself so you can bend at the waist while your arms are locked in position. it's the only way it works for me. and don't even try a long freehand, it won't work.

I read that wrong, I thought he was saying literally before HE was born I was going to ask if it was a self C-section. I probably bought my circular saw before he was born.

This is not "little" tips this is (SPARTAAAAA) paid type content

That was great,,,"wood Butcher" I havent heard that since I was called one back in the 80`s,,,,(which i wasnt) And retire as a Master Trim &Cabinet maker

That's what I do on my table saw, I measure from the edge of a tooth to my fence or if I have a line I put the edge of one of the teeth exactly on the outside of the line. So far I get perfect accuracy when doing that

--- he made both cuts with the blade to the right of the line meaning he took one line and left one line - if blade width was critical he should have cut the top line after cutting the right line, then flipped the piece 180 and cut the former left line which would now be on the right

😂 true

I've had to go so far as to invest in a straight-edge, a sharpie, and some clear nail polish for the 45... Set up the saw appropriately and then use the straight-edge to align with the teeth. They can be upwards of a 32nd to the side of the body of the blade... When you compare to your notch, use the sharpie for any necessary corrections on the very edge of the base plate... THEN you can flip the saw to put the line where you NEED it. A stroke of nail-polish will act like urethane clear coat (I happen to love Covergirl for the life-span vs. price) so it won't rub right off again... Try a test-cut to confirm it, of course... AND the clear polish will be dry usually in about 10 - 20 minutes or so, even less on a hot day outside. At least, so far... that's been my favorite method... AND it works on "cheap-o" saws that are really off for the "general purpose" cuts, too... (Thanks China)... ;o)

The 45 cuts' variation from the notch is somewhat dependent on the width of the blade.

This is basic common sense, marking which side of the line to cut.

@@kimloy8019 Basic common sense that was not explained in this video for beginners lol... you have to humble yourself to somebody who has never picked up a saw before... try it sometime, you might become a happier person overall. Have a nice day!

@@MV-wb2cz HUMBLE MY SELF. NOT A chance Peasant. Now we will be doing advance bullshitery and douchebaggery I can't take the time to share it with you as this is the first lesson. Wait I think I might have just share it with you. HMm now i'm contradicting myself and seemingly being humble about it. Darn you chance You've taken this moment to teach me and I am appalled.

@Hello there, how are you doing this blessed day?

That’s awesome Sam, I’m happy the videos have helped! Best wishes

Are you kidding...Just watch the blade..the blade is doing the cutting !...not the guide at the front.. Surely you can work this out after it doesn't work on previous cuts.There is no point in using the guide if you are not getting a cut on the line you have marked. Your comment was funny to read !

just what the blade .... that is all you need to do ... except hold the the saw steady

The new saws have lasers now almost impossible to mess up with the laser

@@teedachosenone6815 I gave up on chasing the newest and best technology a long time ago. Ever since I realized that manufacturers are playing us into buying something we already had by timing new releases of tech. Or worse yet cordless tools where you have to replace the battery ever once in a while. I'm in most cases still using tools that I bought thirty or forty years ago. That leaves a lot of cash left over.

Need luck if you've used for 45 yes. Can't get straight cut😅

@@user-lv5xz3os4j A circular saw is not the only tool out there designed to cut wood.

Repent to Jesus Christ “Godly sorrow brings repentance that leads to salvation and leaves no regret, but worldly sorrow brings death.” ‭‭2 Corinthians‬ ‭7:10‬ ‭NIV‬‬ h

Glad you used the right terminology: left bladed saw instead of left HANDED saw. The right bladed saws have been used for decades and IMO they are wrong right off the hop. You shouldn't have to lean over and look on the opposite side of the motor to see where you're cutting. I find it odd how the majority of cordless are left bladed and corded are right.

Weren't the old heavy worm drive saws all left blade?

@@muskokamike127 Think it's a size thing. The smaller ones (easier to hold on to) are left bladed for good visibility (and poor holding)

Yes and Still are@@robs1852

I have both corded saws,,,1 leftblade motor and 1 right@@muskokamike127

NO ONE and I mean NO ONE asked for your opinion as to what saw is best. Please keep it to yourself ! ! !

Thank you @hootinouts for telling us your saw preference. I'm about to buy a used Makita and you positively influenced my choice. Love from Montréal

@Hello there, how are you doing this blessed day?

you lost me at "now try this". lol. I'm just a butcher cuttin' big pieces into little pieces. If you have the time, maybe explain it a bit clearer or not. Thanks.

@@meatmaster8636: You’re not the only one, lol. I’ve been a professional carpenter and renovation contractor for decades and have no idea what this nonsense is about. I’ve learned to almost shave with a circular saw (not recommended) but I don’t have a clue what this was about. If you want a rough cut you can use the plate notch but if you want accuracy you never take your eye off the blade and the cut line and you use both hands to guide the saw, one on the trigger handle and the other on the horn. Simple as that.

@@meatmaster8636 Sounds like he's saying not to start the cut on the edge of the board but to start with a plunge cut.

@@rayray8687 Hi there, l think what he's trying to say is just basically use the _Old Piece_ as a JIG, & just run Your blade around it keeping an eye on the line of your _New Piece_ , which would be underneath, kinda like you would use a Router, . . *Disclaimer* : Interpretation & not advice..😉

@@stonerlokz: I think maybe you’re right but then some people can complicate a one-ticket raffle, lol.

For framing I would never not use 120v For what he's doing in this video I just use my table saw, unless the piece is gigantic, then I do use the circular saw, but with a track/jig I made.

@@KuntaKinteToby you would never use a 120v? Most other people do. A table saw would be a pain tfd the ass for this. This method is far superior.

I usually make a short straight line for my measurement mark, & 1 angle line from that on the kerf / cutoff side of the line. Or I'll put a small x on the cutoff side of the line. That's not just with irregular cuts, but any cut line.

I need to check those distances out on my Makita. I've built a saw sled for it but it's just too big for most cuts to be practical.

@@chrisallen6010 Dewalt, makita, milwakee, and most higher end saws have those distances same, i think they standardised them, but alwas worth checking that to be sure.

Last I knew Your Makita doesn't have a parallel adjustment for the base (Dewalt does if memory serves correctly). So, depending on the individual saw the numbers are problematic.

no one expects that kind of precision with a handheld circular saw

@@xl000 Craftsmen do.

Repent to Jesus Christ “Godly sorrow brings repentance that leads to salvation and leaves no regret, but worldly sorrow brings death.” ‭‭2 Corinthians‬ ‭7:10‬ ‭NIV‬‬ h

That is the kerf? Correct? I’m learning :)

@@believeinjesus6972 Are you feeling alright? 😂

Seen that straight away and winced, u wouldn’t do it with a mains tool so why different with a battery? Decent video though.

It's also easier to use setting the correct depth.

As a carpenter I have never found that to be the case. Matter of fact I have found having the blade all the way down as in the video helps with making a straight cut. More blade in the wood self-aligns the saw. If you are worried about tear out or chipping depending on what you are cutting. , flip the piece over and cut from the back side. Or score the piece 1st with a utility knife and a straight edge before making the cut.

Worm drives are heavy, but they have their loyal advocates. I don't like them personally, but they do have some advantages. I also think that different non-worm drive saws "drive" differently. I use a Porter-Cable contractors saw, because I like the way it "handles." I always put Makita at the bottom of the list for ergonomics, and the Skil non-worm drives seem to have blade guards that hang up sometimes when they hit the edge of thinner stock. DeWalts are OK, but just OK, and I like Milwaukees better. One problem with choosing a circular saw is the difficulty in arranging "test drives," and beginners being put off by the price of a contractor's saw. In any case, I think we can all agree on the benefits of using a sharp blade. -- At some point, a beginner might see a pro pin back the blade guard with a shim, and about half of the pros I worked with did that. But beginners shouldn't try that until they are so accustomed with using a circular saw that the mechanics of setting up a cut and following a line are automatic and second-nature, so that he can pay enough attention to the intricacies of how to put an unguarded saw down without cutting off his toes or something like that. Human attention is a limited capacity, and when one is learning new skills, most of that attention has to be focused on the basics.

@@grizzlygrizzle makita circular saws are the bomb. Used two in my 17 years as a contractor, still have both for the 6 years after for many projects around the property. 10/10 would recommend

The second notch is how you line up for a 45

That's a lot of words to say that the guy is a hack. The guy probably built a few bird houses and now he thinks he's an a youtube expert Carpenter

You forgot to mention that saws and other tools also hold grudges for non use, the longer you don't use them the more often they bite you. lol

LOVELY?!? Did you say LOVELY? Please hand in your Man Card for the female version.

Thanks mate! I noticed that about my off hand watching the footage- it does seem a bit dangerous so I wasn’t going to mention it. The key there is always keep your hand in front of the blade, because a circular saw will want to kick backwards. That also why I love the little battery saws, because of there lack of power they just stall out before they will kick back.

@@TheFunnyCarpenter I meant that using your left hand to stablize the front of the saw at the start of the cut was a good thing. It made me think of how when hand sawing a dove tail guiding the saw on the first stroke with your thumb makes a huge difference. In a similar way, because it is a focused, soft push moment there really is no danger. In my opinion.

@@TheFunnyCarpenter I don't think that's dangerous. just like your "don't let your fingers get in front of the table saw blade" tip, just don't let your fingers get behind the circular saw...for the exact same reason.

@@saltydroog854 most importantly, don’t let your finger be separated by the saw blade 😉

I use a straight stick and 2 clamps works great for me

Now this is how a truly seasoned and experienced professional cut guy does it! Its the only way to be both quick and accurate. I rarely start off the work unless im cutting something short like cripples or studs...sheet goods are always line up, plunge, and go.

Thanks for checking out the video Steve🍻

I use a laser guide and squares.

Indeed. As a good practice i keep my depth about half a tooth coming out the other side.

You can make a mark with a black felt or etch something in there to help out.

@The Funny Carpenter oh. Dumb question on my part ha ha. I was thinking about adjusting or "trueing" the blade. Thanks!

Have a cheap old craftsman saw I 'fine tuned' the notch with a file for that very reason.

@@TheFunnyCarpenter: The real solution is to use the notch only for rough cuts. If you want accuracy, use a clamp-on straightedge cutting guide ($20.00) or follow the actual blade, not the notch.

@@Ian_Burt: That’s great but how do you un-file it if it’s out of alignment the other way, lol.

Once the blade is sunk into the work it should track straight in the kerf. He points out that it's important to start out aligned with the cut. Because if you're off track to start off with then it's harder to get on the line and your kerf won't be tight then either. If I want a straight line I use a speed square. If I really want a straight line I leave some meat off the line and plane to the line. If I really don't care then I freehand the cut.

I believe you want the entire gullet to exit the wood not just the teeth.

Deeper blade equals more accurate cut.

I agree , too much blade is dangerous .

Setting the depth to the thickness of the material reduces accuracy.

@@geoffprothero9408 setting it too deep is dangerous and causes tear out.

Triangle saws are for cutting circles. I bet you think I'm joking. Go look it up.

Thanks Dad...