I think the glass bed is a step back. Getting a PEI spring-steel sheet and a 3d touch (or create an unklicky probe as I did after trying glass and still not being happy with adhesion) would probably have made life much easier.

WOW! great video. helps me decide between new juggstech and ender 3 pro

0:30 I know the feel man, editing is hard, keep up the good work

I really liked all of the 3d printed upgrades about how they are making the printer look very neat and nice. Great work

yes, spacers instead of springs.. finally someone doing it also... this aint a car... it doesnt need flexibility it needs rigidity... to be honest i tought no1 else noticed the flaw in spring beds... everyone just replaced it with thicker springs... like why... .... makes no sense...

Another great upgrade is a better part cooling duct and replacing all the fans with quiter ones like noctua A4x10 and Sunon MF5015. Replacing the fans needs some rewiring and buck converter tho because the mainboard runs with 24v but the fans with 12v. i prefer PEI-plates over glass beds for ease of use. The prints just pop off by itself when its cooling down and in rare cases if it still doesnt want to come loose a light flex of the plate removes every print. no scraper needed. I'm very happy with the Deruc Pei Plate

Next time you have stripped sheet metal screws like that try wearing some safety glasses then inserting a razor knife/snap-off utility knife blade under the head of the screw and apply gentle pressure so it digs under the head of the screw (obviously, this doesn't work on countersunk heads). Then use a well-fitting screwdriver bit and not so much pushing pressure, more turning than pushing in for grip. A diamond coated bit is great if you have one. If you can move the screw even 10 degrees or so the blade will slip under the head more and allow you to use some outwards leverage to overcome the slipping thread problem. For sheet metal screws and self-tappers, you can sometimes get jucky by gently tapping the metal panels in a sidewards direction to jar the sheets apart in a shearing action. This can loosen stubborn screws and works great on panels that have shiften against each other over time binding the screws. Don't hit the outer sheet that the screw goes into, but tap the sheet underneath, from the side/top/bottom, around the corner/edge. Tap one way, try to unscrew, if no joy, try another direction. Once the holes align more, the screw can some free easier. If you're really lucky, a soft screw can shear like this and the top sheet of metal will lift off. Remove the stuck threaded part from the inside with pliers (I like using bent serrated longnose pliers for this) For fat small screws you can sometimes use side-cutter snips to get under the head too - squeezing the snips as soon as the screw moves helps pull the head outards due to it riding up the incline of the snip jaws. Metalworkers sometimes grind an old pair of electronics snips with a dentists diamond burr to make a tiny rounded part in the jaws if they do this a lot - one size of snips fo eash of the screws they encounter. Another technique is to see if you can push the bottom of the screw by inserting a rod an old long security torx bit - with a hole in the tip - is great for this if you can find a vent hole opposite the stuck screw with nothing in the way. Sometimes you can get a flat screwdriver in an adjacent vent hole, or bend a piece of thin stainless bar to put some outward pressure on the bottom of the screw. This has worked for me only 5 or 6 times in 30 years but is worth thinking about. Screw extractors work best on soft screw head like brass or BZP steel, but aren't much use on stainless steels because the steel is too hard to bit into easily. If you use a hot soldering iron it helps to give it a few hea/cool cycles and then finally a good heat thena quick blast on the screw head with PCB freezer spray - sold for repair engineers (or use a duster can upside down). Best results if you tape the area around the screw with a few layers of aluminium ducting tape so the freezer doesn't cool the panel as much as the screw. Occasionally the freezer spray will fracture the screw head off, so you can just life the panel off over the stump. I hate drilling on electronics enclosures, but hey, it works. I smear the drill in thick grease once halfway in to help catch swarf, also drill in two stages, nearly through, then allow to cool fully, then start again greased. If you have an assistant, you can try to get an assistant to suck up the swarf but be aware that vacuum cleaners create a lot of static (air molecule friction) so not good around electronics.

Cool, you should change the glass bed for a PEI sheet. It's more versatile and easier to work with IMO. I might do the board mod and the Octopi add-on on my old Ender 3 Pro.

I strongly recommend powering the Pi through the dedicated power-in USB port, as it has built-in protection circuitry

You should put the Vslot covers in the rail not just under it.

An alternative to PEI sheets is Garolite sheets. McMaster Carr in the US does carry them, but you may find better prices from companies that supply handle material for knife makers. Essentially the material is the inside of many circuit boards, has a great grip on most filament (Angus of Makers Muse noted that when he put down one of these sheets, was the first time he was able to get PETG to print w/o adding a layer of glue.) And when the material gets down below about 40C it pretty much releases the print with no effort. Periodically clean it of dust and oils. You should be able to use the bed clips for your glas bed for holding it on. It's up to you how thick to go. What I have is about 1/8th inch, about the thickness of a sheet of glass. I'd recommend not going thinner than 2 mm, but 1/8" (3.5 mm) is probably thicker than necessary. Micro Swiss (A company out of Ramsey, MN) makes a number of extruder options, hardened nozzles, through direct drive extruders that replace ender3 through cr10 hot ends and extruders, mostly eliminating the bowden tube. Others make similar things. They are close to me, so some day I may swing by to say hello, and perhaps see what new gear they have. If you would like to power down the printer after prints are done, I've found TP Link smart plugs work well, and there are octoprint plugins for power, and tplink to enable that feature. At the very least it will shut off the hot end fan that is otherwise continuously powered as long as the printer is on. I'm powering my OctoPi instances off of their own power bricks, so your power solution for your OctoPi might need some added options, like a battery pack to keep the Pi running or give it time to shut down till you power on the smart plug again. You can stream video directly from your OctoPrint Pi into just about any service that supports it. VLC for windows and linux, (I don't know about Mac, but probably there too) as a browser feed into OBS. I've even got one of mine feeding into a home assistant dashboard. Or pull it up in any browser. (right click on the camera image on the Control tab, copy the URL, then open t hat URL in your browser.) In an effort to get a better view of my first layer going down, I'm building a mount for one of the cameras like www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09T34X3BK/ to sit behind the hot end and just above the end of the nozzle. I picked up some 'rubber' patio blocks that the printer (s) fit on to reduce noise from movement of the various parts. (not controlled by the better stepper drivers) They add mass to the surface under the printer. I have, but have not installed the second z-axis screw, and x and y tensioners. The second z axis screw requires relocating the power supply, and when I initially went to install the x and y tensioners, I misplaced the hardware to attach them. Found immediately after restoring the original setup, but that was enough frustration for the day. Plan on replacing the bowden tube regularly if you keep the stock hot end. Also plan on replacing the nozzles from time to time. Though you can just pull them, bring them up to temperature with a butane torch, and burn off the PLA or PETG residue. Speaking of replacing the nozzles, I happen to like the brass 0.6mm nozzles, but if you are working with any of the 'technical' materials, going with a hardened nozzle may be a better option. If you go that way, don't go cheap. I ended up with a nozzle that promoted itself as a 0.4 mm nozzle, however in the heat treating, the nozzle necked down, and printed with flow more like a 0.3 or smaller nozzle. That was aggravating. In any case, make things. Have fun and share what you do from time to time. 🙂

My Ender 3 Pro went through - new motherboard, springs, auto bed leveler, dual gear extruder, new PTFE tubing, PEI sheet, printed trays. It runs Octopi with Klipper. I also made a printing station for it from some IKEA side tables. It works fairly reliably now. Only annoyance is if I run the ABL sequence in Klipper it disconnects from the board for some reason when saving the config and I have to reconnect. Aside from that it's turn on, print, wait, print done.

great video. 2 upgrades i would reccomend is replacing the hotend and part cooling, the creality sprite pro hotend is amazing and incresed print quality very much for me

Fwiw, when using Allen head wrenches, don’t use the rounded end for any torque, it tends to strip out the head.

You are very late on the Ender 3 Upgrade race. I mean I was, as bought mine 2 years ago. I finished almost all the Upgrades I wanted to. Have replaced the hole printing head to the Sprite extruder linear rails better fans and so on. It was an awesome journey. Wish you the same too. But I switched from Octoprint the Mainsail with Klipper recently, and it's day and night much to fiddle, but damn, you can print up to triple the speed. Much fun on your further Journey

If you strip a bolt use something to cut a notch and use a screw driver to get it out

You actually checked for continuity with the wires... Since the beep, the multimeter does NOT beep if you measure voltages or current.

You may plan to do the ultimate upgrade- either the EnderNG or the Switchwire Conversion. Is a bit pricey sometimes but worth the effort. Started by doing the X-Axis Linear Rail upgrade and the Toolhead change to a Stealthburner. Have a look.

A whole roll of wire not conductive? That's insane!

Got a link to the pi case you used? Currently got the buck converter mounted outside my pi enclosure which i dont like

the vslot covers are upside down

Hey man, I printed a lcd cover for my printer to and I put 3 layers of tape on the lcd facing side and then it is completely dark and no light shines thru. Maybe this helps you=)

Striking resemblance to Tucker Gott. Wow.

Nice job! I wonder if any prototype services can help for upcoming upgrade work? Such as custom PCBs, 3DP, CNC. Would love to sponsor and reach any YT collab together! (PCBWay zoey)

or get a neptune 4 and no do any of this.

This video is late for 5-7 years...

The Microswiss NG is a priceless Upgrade🥹