I was worried until you remembered the fan…

@@tinadahl9875 Close call! :)

amazing

Thanks!

Glad you found it useful! Good luck with your laser

Awesome, thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks! Good luck with your build!

Thank you for the nice comments!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Thank you! Good luck with your laser cutter!

Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful!

@@acwrightdesign Thanks for the reply -- would you mind sharing the speeds and accels you ended up with? That would really help me know what to shoot for!

No problem!

Thanks!

Thanks! I probably won't do tutorials on Lightburn since their YT channel has a bunch of in-depth tutorials on the software already. I am planning on doing a general FAQ video at some point so if you have a question for that video let me know!

@@acwrightdesign awesome, ive used lb for my diode laser and not even messed with any of the settings you play with here

@@acwrightdesign im a little confused about the acceleration one, it was overshooting the bed area i got that, but you changed it from 1.5 million something to 8 million something and it stopped overshooting. That part i got confused about

Thanks! Yeah I found just water works best but only slightly damp.

This is good advice! I have set my offsets for the scanning speed I always use so I don't need to change them. I love your channel btw! Thanks for all the great videos!

I can't remember exactly but I think I just made a mistake and accidentally pulsed the laser.

I basically just test fired the laser going from low power to higher power and watched the ammeter. Then I set this as the power max.

If you are talking about the blue target holders, I 3D printed them. There is a link to the files in the description on my Thingiverse page. The targets were made using a printer and a Circuit machine. The files for the targets are also on my Thingiverse. I do not currently print and ship items but I know there are sites online where you can get 3D prints. Good luck with your laser alignment. It can be a struggle but keep making small adjustments and you will get it! Make sure to watch Further Fabrications alignment video. It is really good!

Thanks! IDK, unfortunately I don't have a diode laser so I can't speak from experience. I do know that diode lasers work with Lightburn so the same Lightburn workflows apply.

Thank you! I used 3mm (or 1/8") MDF

Thanks! I assume you are referring to the engrave test? In Lightburn you can set different power scales for the same color/row by going to the Shape Properties tab.

@@acwrightdesign got it understood. Again, thanks so much for your video.

Thanks! That is the alignment tool from American Photonics: american-photonics.myshopify.com/products/k40-reverse-laser-alignment-nut

@@acwrightdesign Thanks so much! Keep up the good work.

Never mind, figured it out. New to LightBurn!

@@bobmarino2357 I'm glad you figured it out! I have had this question before about Lightburn and I should have made it clearer in the video!

@@acwrightdesign also new in LB, didn't figure it out yet...

Yep! They are here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750178/files

specifically cut test and engrave test

Thanks! Check out the "Shape Properties" tab in Lightburn. You can set a Power Scale for each shape which allows you to cut/engrave the shape at a different power setting.

@@acwrightdesign Thanks so much that is so helpful. Im very new to this so excuse my stupid question. Unfortunately ive been forced into lock down for a month so someone on site will have to do the work for me :)

@@TheTimaffleck There are no dumb questions. Good luck with your project! :)

@@acwrightdesign that just blew my mind

1. The settings are in the "Shape Properties" tab in Lightburn. You can set a different percent of the total power for each shape. 2. The cut test will turn out differently in different materials. Although I didn't film it at the time of the video I have found materials where the same settings do not cut the whole grid. And yes, it does help to see how burnt each square turns out to be. I usually pick something with good speed but not too burnt.

My Z axis homes when the machine turns on. My controller settings are very "stock" except for the motor control parameters which will vary based on your motor configuration.

@@acwrightdesign ya i got the bed to go down when i home, but i cant move the bed to the nozzle.

I am using an air compressor with a solenoid valve. Check out my video on the Ultimate Air Assist kit.

Yes I did. I have not used it to align all of the mirrors but it was useful for aligning the third mirror in the nozzle. It is really helpful for making sure the beam is coming straight down the middle of the nozzle.

Thank you for this tip! You are 100% correct!

Thank you!

I believe I may have increased the current slightly but otherwise, it is the same as the build docs specify. Make sure your Z-axis is running smoothly and freely and not binding. This is the biggest issue I had. I had to reseat the bearings in the pillow blocks and loosen all the blocks and then re-tighten. If it is binding in any way keep working on it!

It depends on your laser head and lens size. Try doing a ramp test or just fire some shots at different distances. For a 50.8mm lens and the Cloudray head (like mine) it is around 5mm but you really need to experiment to find out.

@@acwrightdesign Thanks, I'm using a StartNow head with a F50.8. I will try a ramp test.

Lightburn

This is curious... I'm not exactly sure what to suggest. Did you figure this out?

@@acwrightdesign I did figure it out. Your lines do not seem to be perpendicular to each other. There is a slight slant to the vertical and horizontal lines.

The basic machine settings are include from Further Fabrication when you buy the plans for this laser from his channel.

I'm not familiar with that machine... I use Lightburn for my laser control so if that machine can use LIghtburn I would say yes. I would be careful to check the power settings and make sure they are appropriate for your machine. Congrats on the new machine!

@@acwrightdesign thank you yes it can use light burn it has a 90 diode with 5.5w output

@@acwrightdesign as for the acceleration test im not sure if it can do the speeds your using

@@stevemichael8186 Yeah you may have to adjust the test for your specs

It is 3mm 1/8"() MDF or plywood

My guess is that you have the stepper motor drivers wired to the wrong inputs on the Ruida. Double check your wiring!

@@acwrightdesign appreciate your feedback, got it all fixed now... I have yet another issue, when I run a job on light burn and send it to the laser cutter the job appears to be on the bed in the software but when the laser head starts moving it seems to go its own direction and runs right through the limit switches. Would you happen to have any idea what could be going wrong?

@@charlesraimondo3761 Check the origin point in Lightburn. Maybe it is set to absolute origin? If it is set to user origin did you push the origin button on the Ruida before starting the job to set the origin point?

@@acwrightdesign My origin point is set to top left. when its in user origin mode and If I press the origin button on the ruida controller nothing happens.

@@charlesraimondo3761 I should just beep. That is all that happens. But then the origin point for the job (indicated by a green square in Lightburn) is set.

Thank you!

The laser? I didn't keep perfect track of dollars but roughly $1500

@@acwrightdesign that's do-able, for a custom machine, what would you say the hardest part was?

@@urjnlegend Just learning how to align the laser. The build was really manageable. My 3D printer and CNC machine cause me more trouble than this thing ever have and they were built by legit companies.

Yes