For what it's worth, 4 years after you published this, it answered an exact question I had today. Please never remove your videos, and thank you for sharing ask the knowledge that you've earned.

i appreciate the time and effort you put into this presentation. i'm a beginner and you're greatly assisting me with my understanding of electronics. thank you.

Andreas, thank you very much for your work. I enjoy and appreciate your videos. Cheers from Boulder, Colorado, USA

I ordered my ht7333 from one of your previous recommendations, and boy they work well with lipo's!! One thing that I experimented with was to power the ESP8266 from USB reliably/successfully - by using an 1000uF pre and 2200uF post with an ams3.3v regulator. I could finally built a custom pcb to flash (and run) my ESP's directly using my usb programmers - no more breadboard wiring or additional power sources, just plug and flash!!

I was looking for a proper regulator for esp adaptor board. This one seems perfect. Thank you for sharing that information

This was great! Very detailed, informative. Going to be watching it just one more time :) Looking forward to watching more of your videos. Thank you!

Thanks for your effort, I didn't come across anyone on the internet who explained like you

You are a gold mine, mister! Those videos are so helpful for the ESP8266 community! As a small suggestion, the voice is a little liniar but this is maybe from the swiss type language, anyway a little voice fluctuation will improve the overall experience.

Thank you for another sweet topic. I like your thinking and pointing different things.

You are an awesome presenter. Thanks for all your work!

Thank You so very much. I need to see the older videos you referenced. I needed this for my Wemos D1 Mini in a Model Train. Dennis

Excellent video Andreas. I don't know how I missed this video before and am now glad I have found it as it has now helped me fill in a few gaps in this area that I have been struggling with. I had told myself that I was not going to invest in a scope until I understood how to use it properly and could get value from it. I think I am now ready to make that investment. Thank you, as always.

As always interesting video Andreas, thanks again!

Thank you very much.You make a very good job and ESP's videos are very interesting.Fantastic videos

I find this fascinating. Keep up the good work.

Really, really, really good. Saved me a lot of time. Many thanks Art

Thanks for your videos, they are pretty good and usefull, ESPecially these ones. :)

that was a very thorough and detailed analysis ...... Thank you

you are doing nice job. keep going. I am watching your videos regularly.

Andreas, you should consider making ASMR videos. Your voice is so soothing and pleasant, I almost fell asleep :) Thanks for useful info.

At 4:35 it is recommended to add parallel cap (ok) or inductor in series of power lead (wrong!). You really do not want to add any more inductance. Power rail inductance is the reason your voltage drops during spikes. Inductor resists change of current and at power supply end you see less spikes but at the device end the current does not increase as quickly ie. voltage drops. Sometimes inductors are added with capasitors to form a low pass filter (like in picture at 4:35). That helps to reduce spiking/noise at power supply end. However, due to added inductance you usually need much more capasitance than if you had only added capasitors. You take this route only if you want to filter noise.

Very good info and work again.

Very interesting. I never though that the simple cables/ic board resistance was an issue on so low power voltage devices.

Really great video! Thank you!

again clearly delivering the needed info . and nice tip about inductors being a hindrance . i will have to rethink my layout a small bit . I suppose i have been lucky with one project . I ran it a 9V mostly with buck converters at the parts that were 5V and lower . and i set the buck value with probes at the ESP's VCC and GND . so that was just dumb luck all this time for me . LOL . so again thanks for great job.

Very thorough, fantastic videos

Excellent video, loved it.

great information, thanks.

This pretty well reflects what I've found empirically. Moral of the story,use at least 100uf capacitor across the 3.3V power pins,close to the chip. I also like to include a 0.1uf cap. I haven't had any power-related problems when following this 'rule of thumb' with these devices.

Great analysis!!

Thanks for this great video!

Thank you, that is the stuff that our university never taught us!!

Congratulation, thats a good Quality video

Now it is much more clear, why my temperature logger crashes. Will have to rebuild from ground. Thanks a lot for the video.

Another super cool video

Extreamly useful. I was about to buy 1117 but am getting 7333 instead

Thank you for your great videos. They are inspiration to me. BTW: Did you done any measurement of power consumption using a a different TX power levels? I'm still waiting for my modules, so I can't do any measurement yet.

Thank you for researching capacitor values. Most websites recommend only 10 or 47uF so hopefully with 470 I will finally be able to get a stable ESP. These resets are really frustrating.

Thank you for another great informative video! What exactly is causing the peaks you show in this episode? Is that the ESP waking up from deepsleep, processing something (what and for how long? with wifi or without? what currents?) and going back to sleep?

Thanks Andreas, again, for a superb video! How about dropping the voltade from a lipo cell with a diod (0,5-0,7V) instead of a voltage regulator (together with a 1000uF cap)?

Again big Thumbs up! Thank you. :)

This is amazing help as I got some crashing in some of my devices. I used one in -25 c freezer to report temperature and it won't crash but on hot day outdoors similar device would crash easily

video # 47. roger that. I bet it worked pretty well.

It is strange but because there is a way around this problem I will try to use it will see how I go.

Hi Andreas. Thank you for your research and easy to understand presentations. If I wanted to reduce reboots due to power fluctuations on a wemos or nodemcu board (with onboard USB) should I put the capacitor across gnd and 5v or gnd and 3.3v? Is it even possible to use a capacitor on these boards? Thank you.

Very useful video. What happens in ht7333 if input voltage fall below 3.3v. o/p just follow input voltage or switch-off

You have the same bench meter as me. Despite what the haters say, I really like mine :) Nice video as always :)

Hi Andreas, congratulations for your very useful videos. I'd like to get an advise from you. I'm working in an proyect with Wemos D1 mini and I'll use the DC power shield which can be feeded with 7-24V 1A. May I use a power adapter for LED strips, input 110V output 12V 1A? I'll really appreciate your advise. Thanks in advance.

Good stuff !!!

This is all really good stuff, as I have had so many problems previously due to inadequacies in my power provisions for the ESP8266. One question I have re the HT7333, which seems attractive as a regulator for battery power, due to its very low drop out; is its maximum current of 250ma a bit marginal for the ESP8266?

Hi andreas you said that the nodemcu is not capable of low power applications. But is it possible to change the 100uF capacitor across the esp8266 on the nodemcu with a bigger value and replace the regulator with the ht7333-a to make the nodemcu suitable for low power applications? ... I recently did that but I just replaced the capacitor and unsoldered the regulator. I'm currently supplying through the 3v3 pin but with a 1n4001 diode in series with the LiPo battery to drop the voltage to about 3.5v... I'm currently reading about 22uA ...

Hello, great video again! Have you take a look at the ESP8285? This ESP has build in flash and is smaller, so suits better for use for battery powered aplications.

how can one measure the battery voltage in low power mode without wasting power like with a simple voltage divider that is constantly drawing current??

The AMS1117 and HT7333 have different pinout (SOT-89 package). Do know witch one can be used at those small white cheap expansion boards. I think the HT7333 you used is not the SOT-89 version, Am I wrigh?

Did you make a video testing 8266's at different temperatures? I have a couple of projects that will be subjected to 47c ambient temp and am interested to know what the results of that test are.

Hello, which LDO should I buy to power an ESP from a single lipo battery? Would a diode be much simpler (don't care of completely draining the battery)?

I have a problem. It turns out that once programmed, at the end of the "void loop ()" I place the deep sleep command and without bridging the nodemcu makes an attempt to reboot but it does not pass the scribbles. And if I put the gpio16 (D0) bridge with RST, it goes into a reboot loop where the doodles start continuously ... What am I doing wrong?

Andreas What about a 22000 uF cap for esp8266 deep sleep ?? Thank you. Marc.

Hi Andreas, your videos are fantastic. You pack a lot of info in there! I have a couple of questions that maybe you can help clear up for me. I am powering an ESP8266/Nodemcu with a 120v AC to 5v DC power supply. I am planning to step down voltage using a 1000uf cap and an HT7333 for the ESP8266 and other components that need 3.3v, and use raw 5v for some other components. 1) I ordered 25v caps vs 10-15v caps and I can't figure out if that's going to be a problem. All I can find is that I should de-rate caps by 2-3x (consistent with what you've said), vs if there is a reason to go with a voltage rating closer to that of my operating voltage. Should I be using a lower voltage rated cap? 2) Is there a reason to use a SOT-89 vs TO-92 - such as heat dissipation? I understanding the packaging is different - SMB vs through-hole - of course, but I'm curious if I should be figuring out how to use an SOT-89 in my prototype PCB device. I have found some commercial boards for the SOT-89 package to breadboard pin, which might help with heat. To be fair, I have done no math to see if I even need to worry about heat. My devices aren't drawing much power and I'm only dropping 1.7v. I guess I should do the math. (Note, these devices will never be on pre-printed PCB's, they're just for one-off my use (or mostly one off, some of my friends are interested now that I'm figuring it out, ha).) 3) Would/do you do anything to clean/protect/stabilize the power from a 5v power supply to 5v devices? I am running some sensors that use higher input voltage. I would have bought 3.3v devices if possible but the specialized commercial device I needed was only available in higher-voltage. If you have time to answer any of my queries, I would much appreciate it. If not, no worries, I shall keep researching and watching your videos!

Today was again to my taste :-)

Well done again Andreas. Quick question: what's the trick to get bare bones ESP12 or ESP07 running? I can flash them but keep getting watchdog errors all the time (e.g. "ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:4, boot mode:(3,6) wdt reset load 0x4010f000, len 1384, room 16 tail 8 chksum 0x2d csum 0x2d v09f0c112"). Nodemcu runs well but ESP12 and ESP07 in minimal configuration does not. Is the capacitor that critical? - I only have 47uF across 3.3V and GND.

Hi Andreas! And what about an USB Charger recycle for outlet socket for example? Thanks!

Hi Andreas, I'm trying to use a 18650 battery for a 3.3v arduino project. Now I've been searching allot around the internet, and don't get a clear answer. I would prefer to purchase just one or two modules for charging and using the 18650 battery (charging seperate from operation) But I can't seem to find such a module/method. I'm clearly searching in the wrong direction. FYI, using the ESP8622 with just the 8 pins (ESP-01 I think) Can you or the other subscribers help me out here? Would prefer to have a source if possible, so I can learn something! :) much appreciated!

Hi, thanks for your videos. I learnt alot from them. could you say why you wear gloves working with these boards?

Fantastic video as every one. Just one question : what about ceramic capacitor compared to tantalum or electrolytic regarding leakage current ? Just a neewbie in electonic, but seems that leakage current is one of drawback of electrolytic cap, in contrtadiction with your video ;-) Anyway your videos (all) help me a lot to built my project, just a few questions about capacitor and I'll be able to release it

Thank you very much for your kindness and knowledge and experience we have learned a lot , I am planning on using D1 Mini and powering it with AC to DC (HLK-PM01) and connect it to the 5v , or (HLK-PM03) and connect it to 3.3v , which is better ? and do i need any other component ? i.e. capacitor .. etc

Hi Andreas, do you have an explanation how to implement Deep Sleep and ULP with Arduino IDE to the ESP32?

after adding the 1000 uF capacitor to the esp8266 power pins , what are you using as a power source , can arduino pins (3.3 v and ground ) be used ? currently we're advised from our teacher to use a 12v 5A adapter with LM2596 to power the esp8266 which to me seems kinda expensive solution for such a cheap module. thanku and great video

Hi Andreas, I see that KZfaq is your preferred method of contact and I have a suggestion for a future topic. I'd like to know more about the pros and cons of using ESP8266 modules that don't have metal lids (ESP-01 for example). Do you have the equipment to assess the RFI (radiated and susceptibility) performance of these modules? Are they listed as not FCC approved because they failed to get approval or never tried?

Hi Andreas, thank you for the video! One question: you said that NodeMcu boards cannot be used for low power scenarios, what about using a HT7333 voltage regulator to power directly a 3.3V Pin on the board? I guess the onboard USB TTL chip will still consume some power, but at least I would spare the AMS1117, or?

Hi, What are those gloves for? anti shock? If so, please add a link :) thanks

That was awsome man awsome

Hi, I can power my esp01S with a wall powered 7V adapter and a spx3819 voltage regulator (and even directly with a 3V CR2032 button battery!). When I use the 9V battery with a spx3819 voltage regulator, it doesn't work. I get 1V instead of 3.3V between the VCC and GND pins once I connect the ESP01. Is this voltage collapse due to current drain?

Excellent video, as always. I was wondering whether you have any experience with mbed microcontrollers? I specifically got an LPC11U24 recently, and it seems to be very interesting so far, might be interesting for you to look at (I think there are newer versions of it out now).

You are so good in knowledge and your presentation skills. I am using ESP8266 - 12 Development board for experiment. I want to measure battery life, 2 AA Connected directly to 3.3V and GND. Do I need to bypass on board 3.3 V (AMS1117) regulator as this set up will feed back 3.0 volts from 2 AA batteries to output pin of AMS 1117 regulator? If so, can I just lift the out put pin from the development board?

sir your channel is awesome. big fan. i have a question. how can i make an esp system which is connected to city power (here 220v) and a rechargable battery (for example 3.7v lipo cell). when the city electricity went out the battery kick in and continue to power up the esp. and when the city lights come back the esp will switch back to city electricity and the battery wil recharge and when the battery is full, stop recharging. thank you very much.

Thanks!

Great Video, as I understood for a 12V power supply the HT7333 should be good f0r 3.3V output for an ESP32, right? What chip could I use if I have only 24V DC available?

Excellent! Just what I needed, all the options in a nutshell. By the way, have you thought of using a mini buck converter the mini LM2596? How much of an inteference do you think it will have with the wifi signal, do you think?

I use mainly esp8266 boards at 3.3 v for home automation stuff as all the sensors I use on them are also 3.3v Some of those sensors are a bit power hungry (gesture sensors etc) so as far as a capacitor goes Im guessing a 1000uF 10v, 16v or 25v aluminium electrolytic is what I should be using? Just about to order some from AliExpress

Based on your statement that the NodeMCu cannot be used for low power application, 2 questions Can the WeMos module be used for low power? What is the recommended module for low power operation that can be purchased from Banggood?

Thanks

Hi Andreas - I see you also mentioned the Wemos Mini as having a better regulator ? - as I am using Wemos Mini and Wemos Mini Pro I wanted to know if a large capacitor is also recommended - reason I ask is I seems to get at best around 48-64 hrs before I get a hardware watchdog restart occuring on my wemos no matter what.

Thank you master suisse

Hi Andreas. I hope you can help this noob. I powered some Wemos D1 minis with a 18650 battery via the VIN. I got a few hours before they died and (maybe) over-discharged. Indeed, I had to discard one of them... My Soshine Lifepo4 size AAs arrived and I plugged one into the 3.3v on a Wemos D1 mini. At 700mah, I expected the Lifeop4 to die quite quickly. Not so. It's going strong after 4 hours. So, how come a 700mah plugged into the 3.3v input can last well when compared to a 2400mha LiPo plugged into the 5v VIN? Are voltage regulators really so inefficient? Or am I making bad assumptions?

Reactive component of an inductor is proportional to the frequency. No wonder inductors produce high voltage drop (higher reactance) at high frequency spikes.

Hey Andreas! Even if this video is already a few years old, I got a related problem (at least I think it's related). I'm using a simple esp8266 button solution with 4 buttons. They send a MQTT message to my nodered server. It works great. The only issue is: The buttons "fire" when I want to turn down or up the window blinds in the same room. They are in no way connected. They only hang in the same power circuit of my appartment. Any idea how this might happen?

The voltage drops you are showing seem a bit extreme, compared to what I have seen. With the board you show at 10:34, I have 2 capacitors: 100uF electrolytic across VCC and GND, (high side of the linear regulator) and 470uF across the VCC/GND pins of the actual module. (low side of the linear regulator) on the reverse, I have a 3.3v HT7333 (250mA LDO). I have not seen more then 25mV of voltage drop, even when transmitting large amounts of data. Maybe the high voltage drops you are seeing are coming from the high resistance of a bad breadboard/jumper wires?

Hi, andreas. i read all the comments, and ht7333 is your recommendation. The datasheet says, max output is 250mA. So is it okay? Can you explain why? Thank you btw for all your great videos.

Nice gloves! Looks very professional!

Your videos are always graet! I learn a lot with them. Could you make a video teaching us how to connect two or more ESP's through wifi? I can't find a good video about this topic on youtube.

Hello Andreas, thank you very much for your videos, you are the best!! I have this big problem, I was using de 12E, with deep sleep, and SPIFFS, with a TLV30033, because I need to use it with a battery. BUT I bought a few ESP 8266 12F, and fails, a lot, if i use another power source, works great, but not with the LDO. In the data sheet, the power specifications and the pin modes to booy from flash, are the same that the 12E, so I do not undestand why it crashes. Do you ever used the 12F? Thank you very much for your time. Best regards.

Informative video Andreas. I have a question. My Esp module (Wemos D1 Mini) resets after few seconds every time. I am using motion sensors with it. I tried to power up the sensor from separate power supply. The ESP is powered up via a USB cable from my laptop. I tried the capacitor thing but didn't work. Can you please help with this? I need continuous data from my sensors for about 2 or 3 minutes but i am not able to do that since the ESP resets after every few seconds. Thank you in advance!

for low power you might be better off with the WeMos specifically the "d1 mini v2" v2 has a better regulator

Awesome video :-) I was wondering why my ESP12-E on a common adapter (shown in 10:28) reports 2.68V, also the initialization was rarely not successful (crashes, boot loops etc.). I just tried a 470uF capacitor, it is now stable and reports 3.0V but surely will replace with 1000uF or even 2200uF once i start moving out my project from breadboard.

I am using an ESP-01 Black, I am having a problem in powering it the right way, I tried several things but with no luck, can you give an option, that is cheap and easy to power it, so it can function with any problems. thanks in advance!

do you know a good and small AD-DC converter board (for exemple: 220Vac/5Vdc) that I can solder on PCB to power my ESP projects?

Am I understanding correctly that the 470uF SMD capacitors have no issues? Does this mean two 470uF SMD caps in parallel could avoid a "bulky" 1000uF THT cap?

Great video and really interesting! While the ESP is getting older, it is great to see some people still making videos about it. The ESP8266 is one of my favourite trinkets, even though I haven't even tried using Arduino on them yet. I've only tried some simpler AT commands and against my own webserver, which locks up when the ESP tries to access it through HTTP requests. No idea why.. I will build another server at home to try and figure out why it locks up.. Not so fun when it locks up my whole webserver that I don't have at home and is serving real websites ;) hehe.. Anyhow, When you're measuring current you have the meter wires plugged into the Voltage ports and it is reading mV. Is this correct? I'm in no way doubting, complaining or anything.. I'm just wondering why =) I know that you somehow can measure current by measuring voltage as well, you probably know what I mean and it might be what you did in this video. I just cant remember how to do it or if it has a name or so. But like, you measure the voltage and while it says Voltage you can just convert it to Amperage. Do you know what I mean? Hard to explain ;) Well, great video and I can't wait for more ESP videos and any other topic you come up with, all your videos are really interesting and awesome! =)

My understanding was the 12e could take up to 20v at the vcc port. Is that not true?