Glad the video helped.. I have a separate video related to the freezer no start tip: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g7t7lcejybyxqXU.html

Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..

Thanks.. Hope it helped..

You're welcome.. Glad to have helped..

Got this info from a site explaining ECM numbers.. Not sure if it applies to TCM's also.. "The last 3 characters are broken down into 3 parts. "A" generally is used for US ECUs. "G" is European, and "J" is Japanese. There are other versions of this, but you get the idea. The second digit "0" typically means manual transmission, where a "5" means automatic transmission, and the last digit "1" is the version number."

No issues with the ECM at this time.. I had a front passenger water leak and took everything out to dry out carpet.. I have had 2 ECM issues in the past though.. Both solved with ECM (salvage yard) replacements.. First was no start when interior of car was hot.. To diagnose, I took ECM out of hot car (heat expands solder joints to expose cracks) and placed it in fridge for 1 hour.. Plugged the cold ECM back in (same hot interior) and engine started/ran fine.. Second issue initially led me to believe I had a transmission problem.. RPM's would surge and transmission felt as though it was slipping.. I had stockpiled a few ECM's at that point and swapped one out just to see if that was the problem.. Problem went away.. Put the old ECM back in to confirm issue, problem returned.. Faulty barometric pressure sensor in ECM?? Don't really know.. I keep an eye on two salvage yards where I live for automatic 94-97 Accords with non Vtec engines.. Specifically to check for ECM's that match mine.. I like having spare(s).. Good Luck with your issues..

Clean ur egr port and the intake ports they full of carbon easy by removing the fuel injector rail

Up to this point I've gotten by with junkyard ECU/ECM's for my 95 but good ones are getting harder to find.. I've had this site saved for several years in the event I need a refurbished one.. Free shipping, lifetime warranty.. No idea if they are good/bad..store.allcomputerresources.com/searchresults.html?query=1996+Honda+Accord

@@tongo117 Hello, I was able to open up the passenger side compartment and confirm that I just have the one ECU/ECM and the TCU/TCM single unit. The single unit has a date - March 26, 1997. The bar code reads - 37820-P0H-L52 887-344355 IPT. Do you still recommend I order an ECU/ECM from the link you provided which are primarily a 1996 unit? Thank-you

If you click that link there's a toll free number on the top right corner of that page.. I would call them first and tell them your situation before ordering anything.. They will want the bar code number so have that ready.. Good Luck!!

@@tongo117 Will do!! Thanks for all of your help.

Hello, Called All Computer Resources, they asked for my VIN number as well as the ECU number and was able to place an order for a new computer. Really great resource for sure. Many thanks for your expertise on your video. Was quoted an estimate from a Transmission company near me at $1240.00 to replace the TCM. Saving all sorts of money!

not sure.. never had that issue..

@@tongo117 Nuts! Thanks anyway, man. Guess I'll just have to tear the dash apart to get to it. Such is life.

I have no idea, sorry

Based on the information on that site you may be correct.. But I don't know for sure..

Just plug it in.. No need to reprogram.. At least for mine.. Not sure if that's true for all 95's..

I guess I need to change the title of video cause yes, it appears your 96 has a single unit.. Research found this info.. "The stock 96-97 Accord with automatic transmission uses a single PCM/ECU to control both the engine and auto transmission"

@@tongo117 yeah I found this out a bit after I left the comment.

Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..

after removing the four 10mm nuts that hold the kick-plate down you have to pull it towards you a little until it clears the four threaded studs.. once you do that, you should be able to pull the top towards you and lay it down flat like i do in the vid.. the top may catch on the bottom of the glove box but you just work it past that.. then the only thing(s) attached should be the wiring harnesses..

@@tongo117 the problem was I didn't pull the carpet back far enough and it was getting caught on it. Just fixed it now

The computer ID numbers have to match old vs new.. Automatic will have different computer.. Gotta find a 5 speed manual and match the numbers.. This may help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oZyTgbZ_zpa2Zac.html

help you how?

1984.. i was a brand new rookie fireman.. money was tight.. always had peanut butter and a loaf of white bread in my kitchen locker.. someone called me PBM one day and that was it.. name stuck for 35yrs..

@@tongo117 I fuckin love it haha

on my 95 Accord it's plug and play.. not sure about newer models..

@@tongo117 Okay good. Mines a 95 too.

Good question.. I personally don't disconnect the battery when removing/installing the ECU and I've never had a problem.. But it's probably a smart thing to do.. That way you fully restore power to the ECU all at once instead of partially restoring as you connect each of the 3 harnesses..

@@tongo117 ok i was justcwondering because i seen a different video and it said u may have to flash it or calibrate it but my friend said i can just do the replacement without that

The numbers shown at 4:49 (top) and 4:52 (side)..

My car is a 1996 Honda accord lx 2.2l non vtech with automatic transmission any idea wich ECU should I get?

You either have to get the numbers off the ECU that you have now or a Honda dealership may be able to tell you which ECU you need if you call and give them your VIN..

I don't think so cause you don't have an automatic transmission.. And your ECU may only have 2 harnesses that snap into it instead of 3 like mine.. No communication needed between ECU/TCU on yours so fewer wires.. honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/tcu-ecu-3209015/

I don't know from experience but apparently you should find yours behind the center of the dash below the radio.. www.2carpros.com/questions/honda-accord-1998-honda-accord-ecu

I've never had an issue with SRS so I don't know where sensor unit is located.. But there's a diagram in this repair forum thread that may help.. Scroll down a little to a post by redbull 1.. He has a thumbnail attached with diagram..www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/srs-cel-obd-1-stuff-any-thoughts-suggestions-50285/

red bull 1's second post has the SRS diagram..

Salvage yard.. Or, contact these folks: siaelec.com/product-category/ecm-ecu-repair-return/honda-ecm-repair/

@@tongo117 THNKZ

don't have one.. my accord is a 95 non vtec

I believe yours is located behind/below the center of the dash.. Not on floorboard like my 95 accord.. There's a diagram in this link.. www.2carpros.com/questions/honda-accord-1999-honda-accord-location-of-ecu

I switch it but now it only cranks but doesn’t start

I doubt that would work.. The part number on the new ECU needs to match the part number on the old ECU.. www.hondata.com/tech-ecu-identification

I don't know from experience but based on the info in this link yours is located behind the radio.. Shown at the ;57 mark in the video.. www.pullapart.com/video-library/videos/how-to-pull-a-honda-computer-honda-accord-1997-2002/