Your vids are like a PHD in watches EXCELLENT !

I like that you are honest in the levels of horology and not blowing smoke about how wonderful everything is. I will come back to video again.

I've watched this episode on watch ranking several times as well. Simply, thank you!

Longines recent Master Collection and Heritage collections would push them near the strong horology category. Longines' Avigation Bigeye won a GPHG award - competing with Patek, AP, etc.!

Good one Bill. When you really get deep into this matter, it's a real pain in the A** But I do enjoy it. Thanks.

I know these kinds of lists will always be controversial, and people like to cheer their favourites, etc, but I feel like I should say: I think Franck Muller deserves a seat at the Exceptional Horology table. Well, I have only seen the perpetual calendar, but it is magnificent. Like someone else already said, maybe it makes more sense to rank individual watches rather than brands.

Great video on a difficult subject. I thought the break down was a good starting off point for those new to the hobby.

Thank Bill. You are excellent! in my humble opinion, I will upgrade Union Glashutte to Strong Horology

I just don't get why people always feel the need to make negative comments. This list is fine, and furthermore I don't see any of the nay sayers making a video or even a list to justify the negativity. Bill you do a wonderful job, and I truly enjoy watching your videos and learning about watches I would of otherwise never been exposed to. So let those jokers talk all they want because we all know there will be a few in every crowd. One more point, I don't think there is anything wrong with disagreeing with someone's point of view, but if you do then support your disagreement with facts not gibberish. Thanks again Bill, and keep up the great work...

Bill, ever consider updating this video and see how the brands stand up to one another today compared to five years ago? If you recall we discussed on High Horology classification based on work hours put into watches, which clearly is not an a specific science. And much of this is based on some degree of subjectivity. As watchmaker strategies have evolved over the past five years, I would imagine their respective placement might have shifted similarly. Many have brought movements in house, many have gone after a broader market and sourced movements and some have been stagnant. By way of example, look how Nomos is introducing more high horological type in-house movements, Hermes as you mentioned here continues to leverage its relationship with Vaucher to do more in house movements to create really creative pieces. I just did a review on an A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Date, and after quite a bit of research, I actually feel they are moving towards levels consistent with Journe (don’t shoot the messenger) based on the innovation they are putting in their movements and where Journe’s investment by Channel seem to be pushing them towards high production pieces. Furthermore, some of the “exceptionals” have begun producing at higher volumes or have become stagnant without creating further innovation and just resting on their past success. I love the Laurent Ferrier pieces in my collection, but I struggle to see them continue to be innovative. Just the same, I have fallen in love with my first H. Moser acquisition but wonder if their marketing “creativity” might be harming their strong horology perception. Just food for thought.

Very interesting and helpful list. I am sure that some brands will improve, and others decline, as years go by.

Why is Jacob and Co in strong? I would love to hear your opinion. Also does complications help a brand go higher and lower in your ranking? And does in-house differ from third party?

One can bicker with the rankings but wonderful overview and excellent starting point for a new or even seasoned collectors.I was not aware olf most of the exceptional brands.

Another excellent video Bill! Surprised that Tag Heuer is ranked in Strong Horology though.

Excellent expose. You look at the whole company when placing in each category, not just price (although price can correlate), you look at movement, finishing, brand continuity, design, to name a few. Really good guide to watch companies. Be interesting to see where Speake-Marin places in that the namesake of the company left.

Bill, I have watched this, or maybe #98, at least 4 times and each time I get something new as I have had time in between to learn and digest more about watches. I find this list very useful, not just another "useless" list as one of your commenters stated. I have always found the term, "luxury watch", a bit of a misnomer when applied to the likes of Rolex, Omega, Tag, Zenith, Grand Seiko, Tudor etc. I look at them as premium watches. Of course there are exceptions such as when a particular model is jewel encrusted or in exotic metals. Inside, is often the same movement as a much cheaper watch. With gold at $1,700, a solid gold watch and bracelet, like the Rolex Day-Date, is a luxury watch. But, not a Submariner. And that is where your naming and ranking system makes a lot of sense. Of course at the highest end, like the $30 million Patek 6300A, we are talking the ultimate in bespoke luxury. I would put your FP Journe Ressonance as bespoke, albeit at a much lower price. I would also put it in exceptional horology. So, if the standard Rolex et al. watches are premium, which watches are examples of entry level true luxury watches. I think a comparison may be useful here. A. Lange & Söhne basically starts where the standard Glashütte Original taps out. Of course, Glashütte Original, has some true luxury watches that are the equal of A. Lange & Söhne, but, for the most part, Glashütte Original make lower end models, putting them squarely into the premium watch category with high horology. And of course, one of yours and my favorites, FP Journe is a luxury watch through and through. Finally. Here is an excerpt from an article in WatchTime on the Longines L707 movement used in the 4 retrograde Master Collection watch that I am considering ref. L2.739.4.71.6 "Longines’s Master Collection Retrograde has an exclusive movement with no less than four retrograde functions. How does it hold up under WatchTime’s exacting scrutiny? Find out in this in-depth watch test from our archives........However, Longines CEO Walter Van Känel wanted an all-new movement for the Master Collection Retrograde - one that would be exclusive to Longines - and directed the specialists at ETA to create one. For its part, ETA welcomed the challenge, using as its canvas the Valgranges line of calibers, descendants of the classic Valjoux 7750, which are known for their large size and reliable rate performance. The results were not one but two reliable, user-friendly and, above all, high-performance calibers, each of which uses the traditional cam-and-rack construction. Version A07L21 (designated Caliber L698.2 by Longines) has four retrograde displays; version A07L11 (Longines Caliber L697.2) has three. Caliber L698.2 has retrograde displays for the date, the day of the week, the time in a second time zone and the continually running seconds hand at 6 o’clock; Caliber L697.2 leaves out the seconds hand and replaces it with a power-reserve display at the same position. The Master Collection Retrograde watch in our test contains Caliber L698.2."

Hi Bill, Really like your ranking and pretty much agree with your placements. Some brands with either history or recognition should enter the Sanders scale: Hanhart, Damasko, Mido, Laco, Frédérique Constant, Eterna, Glycine, Hamilton, Meistersinger, Schaumburg. These three ones, I just don't know: Dewitt, Credor, Dornbluth Hublot in the same category as Parmigiani is just...feeling bizarre.

Really like this ranking Bill. Thanks for sharing. I'd also consider adding Greubel Forsey and MB&F in the exceptional horology tier. BTW, I had a chance to see a Daniel Roth in the flesh last week and got really impressed to the quality of their work. Realize they are part of the Bvulgari group now but it's definitively worthy a research about the manufacture and possibly a video about them in future programs.😊 Best, Amintas

Good video - is there an updated video?

Is this your ranking ( ie. based on your opinion ?). If it is based on your opinion, can you explain part of ranking based on movement finishing. For example, Chopard is ranked higher than Grand Seiko, so does this mean, without doubt, Chopard has a higher degree of fine finishing than Grand Seiko? And if so, have you actually taken apart movements of both brands & examined by 20X loupe or higher to confirm how well all the hidden parts of each movement has been finished? Sorry for the question, but since you brought up the topic, I'm just curious how you justify your rankings

Interesting and an obviously debatable hierarchy and thanks Bill for a very thought-provoking video. For me it seems a little generous to put Tag Heuer above Dubey & Schaldenbrand which I did consider purchasing (Grand Chrono with its heavily reworked and hand engraved movement) . In my modern watch collection I have a Fortis, Maurice Lacroix, Doxa, Omega Seamaster, Longines and Glycine. The Fortis Flieger is understated but I think is my favourite watch, the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S diver is very elegant and well put together (I do not understand why the "hate" for this brand), the Doxa Sub 750 Sharkhunter Military is very handsome and is the most admired watch in my collection, Longines Master Collection is the least well finished but has the most amount of complications (triple date, lunar phases and Chrongraph) but is truthfully my least enjoyable watch, Omega Seamaster 300 Professional Black Face with wave pattern is very practical as a watch (the perfect wearable dimensions for me) and the Glycine Black Jack Chronometer (only 500 were made) and looks like it is built to survive a nuclear blast. Where would Eterna and Certina brands fit? I have a 1957 Eterna-matic and is my everyday (Beater) watch. The 1970's Certina Town & Country is my second most worn watch and gets a lot of positive comments for its general elegance. My odd ball watches are a Bulova Accutron (1975), Hebdomas Skeleton 8 Days made from gun metal (1920's) and a Mondaine Stop2Go quartz and all keep very good time. I assume you would put the Glycine in the Standard Horology? I have been looking to get a Corum Admiral's Cup Tides (two tone) as it has a unique design and complications but am weighing it up against a B.R.M V12-44. Most of my friends have advised against the B.R.M - what are your thought on this brand? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Excellent video Bill !

Great with a list even if it's some years old. I'm new to watches and now after a tudor, omega, rolex oysterquartz, I want a 10-30 year old handwound . I have been looking at Girard Perregaux they are strangly low priced.

You can request a Lange catalog at their online site Bill. I would highly recommend it. It has fantastic photos, history of the company, mechanical drawings of some of the watch movements, just a lot of information. It is hard to believe they would send this out at no cost, because it is basically a book. I would be drawn & quartered if I bought one. But man they are beautiful watches.

A much better system of categorisation than Archie's system: shitters and non-shitters. Good work Bill.

I think watches should be classified, not brands

I gotta say...I've got huge problems with this list... Starting with Richard Mille being on it. For me, the tiers are somewhat analogous to hand finishing. So fp and urwerk should be a tier or so down while Arnold and sons should be a tier higher. Then there's the whole levels of watchmaking... Entry level Patel is not the same level as entry level Lange...

great info, what about mb&f, does it belongs to the high rank?

What about Seiko Presage with the 6R15 movement. Not the same level as Grand Seiko, but at least as high as Maurice Lacroix.

i have a 57 jewel zenith that was made for the nuke ppos

Like this one. A few things could be debated, but in general, I agree ☝️

In the first few minutes you said Muhle Glasshute started making their own movements. Did you mean to Tutima Glasshute? Because I know Tutima Glasshute started making their own movements but I didn't think Muhle Glasshute had.

Very good perceived value ranking ! Most of the big names are there ! There is one I like and dont see on the list : what about DeWitt, he should be up there, they make everything themselves !

Bill I just posted a link to this video on Tim's FB page "Talking time"... I hope you don't mind? I've always considered this a great guide for those new to watch collecting.

Great video! What is your take on Haldimann watches? Personally, I really like the H11 watches but the retail price of CHF69000 seems a little excessive for a steel watch without any complications considering that watches like F.P Journe's Chronometre Souverain are much cheaper.

Wow! I have learned so much from you. Vielen Dank! Now, I may go with Nomos over Muehle Glashuette.

Its hard to categorise some brands...For example, Arnold and Son, IWC and Zenith can be high horology. You also had a Nomos video recently that explained this point.. Also, the Breguet type 20 is something I wouldn't call high horology, nor is an ETA based Hublot.

you put Hublot on the same step as ALS? why? 😅

An excellent and helpful video!

So Hublot is considered high horology?

Ressence = high horology? The are using eta ébauches.

I imagine Yelang, Casio, Nite, Marathon, Armour Lite, Citizen, Timex, Carnival and Seiko are either outside the bottom of the frame, or entirely absent. Unfortunately, you've missed my entire collection. :-(

I understand that such a list is difficult to make, but How is Montblanc a Strong horology and longine only Standard horology?

I didn’t see Hamilton listed on your watch ranking system. From what I’ve learned from watching your videos, Hamilton would rank as a standard horology brand. Is this correct? Also thanks for making sense of what criteria are used for ranking different horology categories. Thank you.

What about Hamilton? They have modified ETAs like a lot of the others on the 'Standard Horology' list.

Zenith is a manufacturer

Moritz Grossman is in desperate need of a new designer.

Hi Bill, why is tissot not in the standard list ? Grtz Tom.

very helpful

I would have spent a bit more time on photos of your own exceptional watches.I would have loved to see them and I am sure so would your fans.Thanks again.Perhaps in a separate video your Bovet and I think F P Journe

Not sure about the placement of Tag Heuer in this category. Your placing them in the same category of Omega, IWC and Rolex? I think they belong in the standard category.

On what planet is Grand Seiko only on par with TAG Heuer?

Hi what do you think of a Gallet?

Well, it’s just an okay list. Where’s tissot? That name alone has a special place in watch industry. Not to mention orient in house movements (oh yes, it’s not only just swiss or germany perspectives). Longines and maurice lacroix are the brands that should be mentioned in better positions, imho. I.e many companies had beaten the cosc standard with their own in house movements. Even an affordable seiko movement could last decades.. Quality and creativity in this industry are getting equal among companies nowadays. Doesn’t matter how old your company is in this industry..

Good morning sir, what your thought about eberhard? thanks alessandro

How familiar with Gerald Genta watches are you? The watches made under his name: are they just branded Genta or are they Genta to the core? I realize there is high horology in his retrograde movements, but what about a Gerald Genta watch that is just time and date?

when rolex bought stalz in 1909 they capped the war effort watch but the english only bought 15 jewel watches not superlitive yet but only 3 positions

Bill: in looking at the top two tiers, are there any that you would move up or down?

you said that louis moinet cant be trusted how come he is at the top /.

Hublot is not high horology...

breightling is eta now you cant buy the movements there unless you buy a series

Brands are different from watches Bill. Sinn watches are world class, Helmut Sinn was and will always be a legend in the horological world.

I think you missed the right classification for Czapek.

Sorry but the number one watch is the Grand Seiko

the ten watch runoff are exceptional and time consuming buy 1937 patek 9 watchmakers to 9 years to make one 1000 watch runoff

Oris = Strong.

Si te paseas por Barcelona mejor llévate un Casio

You didn't come to the point in each categories.

Where does movado stand?

I'd put Rolex in High.

love of the game but a lost art .The game is made when the price pays the game and in my life more watches i have the more i like the high low end swiss but really tooled

gublin made patek lange is the son of patek zenith made every movement since time for rolex for all of the war movements even for the nuke power plants baume made cartier for the last 10 years

Hublot High Horology - the use an ETA movement. Very subjective list and I for one disagree with many of your ratings.

I strongly disagree with your scale .How can you locate zenith at the same level of Tag,Omega and Rolex at the same,Zenith underneath AP and Breguet.Cartier jointly with Rolex,Breitling at the same classification as Rolex I find it preposterous honestly

A decent attempt at an unnecessary list that only the uneducated would want. Most real watch enthusiasts buy watches that "call to them" for one reason or another. Love that Bremont is not even on there. I would have added Mido and Eterna on your Standard Horology. I would have considered moving Longines with TAG due to their history. I see major collectors have Patek, Rolex, Heuer (pre-TAG), and oddly Longines in their collections. I would have also moved BALL up to same tier as Omega and Breitling... they have real history/horology with US railroads.

Van der Klaauw above A. Lange & Patek ? In terms of quality of finish, hell no 👎🏻.

the uglier the watch, the higher horology it is :)

not correct

Jacob & Co is a joke. It’s is NOT in the same category as Rolex.

This video is laughable... Cartier doesn't even make their own movements. How can they be in the high horology???