But here’s the thing in order for that roller to work you have to stop the front rollers which wouldn’t really matter in tournaments and state but come worlds you’re going to want something that is faster and more efficient

​@@charlesmeyer7021 Look at the rollers at 0:35. They don't stop moving.

@@charlesmeyer7021 the back roller doesn't effect any of the other rollers lower than it. it's directly linked to the launcher, so when the launcher spins backwards it poops.

yes indeed

thanks

bottom one is actually 24t. middle front is 30, launcher is 30, top pooper is 30, and bottom pooper is 24. I like to stick to the larger ones for more compression and faster surface velocity.

@@xenon27272 Ah ok. Just so im clear, the roller directly above the flipout intakes is 24t?

@@ari90i yes that is correct.

it's adhesive foam, you can buy it from the vex website. pretty useful stuff.

the front rollers spin at 300 rpm. the back spin at 200. I haven't ran skills yet because I have no space for a field.

@@xenon27272 have you tried bumping up the motors to 600rpm?

@@cameronmucha3235 no but it could maybe work if you built it right.

I had some dry ice laying around and had some fun. only footage that I modified the speed on were some of the still panning shots.

quite

are you talking about the tapered chassis? its mostly to keep the chassis out of the way of any balls so it doesn't interfere. also because it looks good.

the friction between the rollers and the wheels on my drive holds them in.

thank you, been looking for a way to keep my intakes folded so ill try something like this.

it's a matter of finding the perfect spacing/tension on the intakes so that the balls don't have trouble falling down through them.

the friction between the rollers and the top of the wheels is enough to hold it in until the rollers spin.

200 rpm

1120 rpm but you could probably get away with 600 at a minimum

for sure. would just need to put the sprockets closer together.

it lets me hoard one opponent ball at all times with no downsides.

there are rubber band pulling the intakes outwards. they're held in only with friction against the wheels of the robot, and when they first spin that will dislodge them.

ok thank you

do you mean the hood? it's rubber banded to want to come up, and I just loop on of the rubber bands on the top roller around the tip of the hood so when the roller spins the hood is releaed.

specs are at the end of the video. as for the intakes, friction just holds them in until they first spin, which kind of dislodges them and lets the rubber bands pop them out.

well the battery isn't going to be drained more than normal by the drive no matter how fast it is, sounds like a battery problem. as far as overheating, you just need to build everything solid and with low friction.

Xenon27 ok thanks for your advice

there happens to be just enough friction between the flaps on the rollers and the top of the drive wheels that I can bend the intakes back and they will hold in place, until I spin them then they pop loose. this probably won't work on other robots though.

perhaps but that could happen just as easily without a sorter, because you have to discard your blue balls anyways.

@@xenon27272 yes but if you just out take you could control the direction they go in more easily.

the standard 200 rpm ones. the front rollers are on a 3:2 ratio though so they spin at 300 rpm

yes, completely in size. I have about half an inch of space on top and lengthwise, but the width is just barely in size, probably a quarter inch of wiggle room.

@@xenon27272 at 0:58 it looks like the intake is out of size horizontally? Is the other side different? or am I missing something?

@@slothmasterjack9646 I hadn't folded the robot properly for that clip. the intakes were not tucked all the way in, and I was too lazy to re-record for accuracy.

well I'm not trying to look from the side, I want to see balls as they go into the intake

Xenon27 so are u using a macro when a certain color ball goes through or are you sorting them manually

@@shad4101 atm it's all manual, the vision sensor isn't being used yet, but I intend to make it automatic using the sensor to track which color balls enter in what order.

@@xenon27272 oh I didn't know that. I thought it was automatic which inspired me to make a robot that has automatic sorting. It is working pretty well so far. I'll put a video of that on my channel if u wanna see.

no, not really

it could go indefinitely without overheating, it isn't going fast enough to get stressed out, so one motor is plenty.

@@xenon27272 and it is going at 600 rpm I am assuming

@@yasiralmotawa1399 the launcher is going at 1120 rpm, the pooper roller is going at 200 rpm.

launcher doesn't really need to be that fast though, 600 rpm would probably still work fine.

nope

roller is better in terms of speed, weight, efficiency, and consistancy

@@xenon27272 also puts less stress on the motors

by far, less moving parts = better

yes

Xenon27 two questions: do you have problems with the robot struggling/overheating due to less power? And it’s 200 rpm 5:3 right?

@@andrewlay428 no, 333 4rpm on 3.25" wheels shouldn't be overheating as long as the robot is less than around 15lbs and yes, 200 rpm 5:3

Xenon27 ah, didn’t notice the 3.25s, because usually 333 rpm would have trouble with 4 inch wheels

@@andrewlay428 yeah, I wouldn't go any higher than 300 rpm on 4"

faster, simpler, more compact, more efficient, basically it's better in every way.

@@xenon27272 With a lexan back since it is hard plastic it would be faster. But it may be more complicated. Also, the ratchet will allow it to power the flywheel when its not powering the flap on the back. Your design is simpler but I'm not sure if the cycle time would be faster. Also, Does your design have ratchets, because if one motor is powering 1 side and one powering the other it may overheat.

The other thing is with a trapdoor design you wouldn't be able to hoard a ball there

don't worry about it

sure, why not