Loved this. Straight simple answers. No beating around the bush, some long history lesson everyone knows, and no excessive use of technical terms. You quickly explained what they meant and what it did. Thanks for uploading this!

Skyforge Steel, of course!

Red plaid = woodworker, lumberjack Blue plaid = metalworker, smith

Gold is for the mistress, silver for the maid Copper for the craftsman, cunning at his trade. "Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall, "But Iron, Cold Iron, is master of them all."

Whatever you need. by Ysmir if it's simple and strong, I can forge it.

You can’t go wrong with 5160 spring steel. The stuff’s pretty much indestructible. It will always spring back to true, hence the name spring steel. Just make sure to keep a wire brush handy as it will rust if not oiled regularly.

This was pretty useful for me because I watch a lot of your videos where you just briefly mention the type of steel of the knife, sword, whatever you're reviewing and I'm really a very casual fan, I'm not really interested in buying or using these weapons, and I wasn't curious enough to research this stuff for myself but it's still useful to know.

C: "The riddle... of steel." TD: "Yes! You know what it is don't you boy. Shall I tell you? It's the least I can do. Steel isn't strong boy, flesh is stronger! Look around you. There, on the rocks; that beautiful girl. Come to me my child... That is strength boy! That is power! What is steel compared to the hand that wields it? Look at the strength in your body, the desire in your heart, I gave you this! Such a waste. Contemplate this on the tree of woe. Crucify him!"

I love these kind of videos

Excellent video, really goes to show how a blacksmith is a materials scientist. Thank you for this.

A swordsman and a blacksmith sit down to make a video... That sounds like the beginning of a joke tbh...

As a extremely noob want to be blacksmith/bladesmith I found both the videos with Adam to be really informative and helpful. Thanks you both for sharing.

I love this chatting with Adam. More of that. He is an awesome guest and his knowledge is great supplement to your channel 💪😎

Thanks for yet another awesome video Skall!!! While I am no blacksmith, I am actually able to follow your rather technical discussion and already understand a good deal of what you discussed. :) My modern take on a wakizashi has an extended grip allowing me to use two hands for better control in my old age. I have my 1095 KaBar at roughly 57 rockwell with the extended 9" blade and composite handle for most hard use cutting tasks. It can cut through a steel belted radial tire and after a trip to the strop is still shaving sharp. I've had it several years and never needed to sharpen, only strop it. Then I have a 7cr17 MoV bladed stainless bowie that I tend to use in the kitchen even though I bought it for field food prep. It's somewhere in the low to mid 50's rockwell. I have my 'old faithful' Buck 119 pattern in 420 stainless. The 420 requires the most sharpening maintenance but is also the easiest blade to resharpen. Then there's my Kukri that gets most of it's use chipping up Mesquite branches into little bits to add to my gas grill for that little extra Mesquite flavor. the Windlass ad said 'high carbon steel' but did not give the specs. I would guess it falls somewhere in the 1070 to 1085 range as it's cut more Mesquite branches than I can count and that bastard is still shaving sharp! Most of my general purpose blades are 440 stainless, AUS-8, 7cr17 or better. I've been looking at some new blades in D-2 tool steel which I didn't hear either of you mention. I have no practical experience using D-2 so I was hoping to hear more about it. Maybe next time. :) I heard you mention differential hardening which I used to think was just for katana swords. However, I've seen quite a few videos of smiths using clay binding and other methods of differential heat treat and it looks hard to do but has rewarding results. In fact, I think if I were to ever spend more than $100 on a blade it would be differentially heat treated rather than the hard steel wrapped and forge welded in mild steel San Mai technigue. Any input you have on these thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks again! :)

Our daddy taught us not to be ashamed of our steels Especially since they're of such a good carbon content and all

I was really looking for a video like this,thanks.

These are the sorts of videos I like seeing. They help buyers navigate the dire straights of quality versus budget. Awesome job!

Adam's got a very pleasant voice

5160 spring steel is my absolute favorite for large choppers and medium sized swords. It's affordable and very, very tough.

This one video taught me more about steel than I've ever known.

I love that anytime I search swords, daggers, axes basically any old melee weapons, KZfaq and Google always shows me your videos first.

It’s actually quite simple. Blades from 1-4 inches,S35VN,S30VN,for edge retention and decent durability. Blades 5-8 inches,1055,AUS10,5160 for durability,ease of sharpening. Blades 8-14 inches 1095,1090,1085,1080,5160,52100 all spring tempered for toughness,durability,edge retention,ease of sharpening. Swords ⚔️ would be similar but it depends on what style it is and of course spring tempered as well. “Whatever a little knife can do a big can do to but not in reverse” Lynn Thompson Coldsteel.

Please have Adam back for future videos.

It was great to hear from Adam. I'm hoping to better understand steel when used for hand tools, such as axe and adze.

Great video guys I’m a metallurgist and your right about the steels your talking about , I love 5160 Steel and 9260 steel .

If they were to touch their ponytails the energy that would come from it would destroy the universe

4:50 I love that he assumes I've been isekaid and not just fing around in the back yard.

Quality talk with clearly an expert! Awesome

I like tool steel, and spring steel. Keep in mind, I don't even own a set of Fullers any more, and I never had enough of an operation, or income to buy steel. I worked with what I could get, which ment scrapping. Leaf springs, files, drill bits, and so forth. That's what I always worked with. If you're just getting started, these are great cheap options to Practice with. Get a good set of Fullers first. (Rebar sucks, it doesn't take a decent temper. I know, it's cheap-to-free, but don't use it. Raw iron is better for blades.)

Love this video, tons of good information for aspiring weapon smiths. Glad to hear there is a single go to type of steel for almost any project.

The kind of steel that ends them rightly.

The steel Skall’s balls are made of

Thanks for making this video! I like super high carbide knife steels, so seeing a swordsmith explain their priorities when selecting steel is a different world for me. I also like the anecdote about historical steel vs modern steel.

finally asked for this during a live stream and have been waiting since thx for listening to your community and being a good content creator

After lots of consideration, I've come to the realization that it really depends on blades geometry and while there are some over all best steels they all have some trade offs that can make one better over the other. And it gets quite complex. Given there are lots of variables. And depends entirely on if it's spring tempered and hardened or only edge hardened. Intended targets also make use of it.

A very enjoyable video. I could have easily listened to Adam talk for an hour more.

The one video of the many I've seen that does not go into "steel voodoo" and superstition...straight facts from the get go...with the right added visuals and demo item...this would be the golden standard...TYVM!!! very informative no hype!!!

I was expecting worse of an explanation. Pleasantly surprised for a quick overview.

A Blacksmith I know uses mostly leaf springs for blades,quenched in oil. As far as I've seen it's pretty up there. Many files will slide on it,while it being somewhat flexible, hard to chip,or brake.

You guys really are on the same wavelengh. You even finish each othe sentences. That must be the love of swords.

These videos are fantastic! Could listen to him talk for hours

This is the kind of content i come for to this channel. Thanks, both of you, quality stuff.

Thanks for the info! Helped me make a decision on a sword for my son.

Falchions were for use against lightly armoured opponents. Otherwise, great video! Really interesting stuff!

I was directed here while binging videos om S&W K-frames, as I am planning to buy either a classic 19 or 66. Sometimes the algorithm actually works for you rather than against you, even when it comes to weapon videos.

he was sooo nervous and yet he did a great job

No mention of the glorious 420 J2, comprised of roughly 40% chromium, 40% fingernail polish and 20% emo teenager tears when they realise their fancy new fantasy sword can't really be sharpened.

Hi Skall I am a long time fan of your channel and your vodeos have taught me a lot about medieval weapons amd fighting. I am myself looking to get into medieval arms but i am limeted to a small budget (300-400€) and know many people with the same problem. So i wanted to aks you if you could make a series of videos containig 3-5 budget weaposn of each “category“ (1h swords, 2h swords, crossbows,...). You dont need to have personal experience with the weapon i think your general knowledge and judgement would be enough. Thank you for reading this wether you pick up my request or not. Greetings from Germany

I'm trying to get a better understanding of the differences between the steel composition of bell knives for a bell knife skiver used in leather work. Nippy makes a 301A bell knife for the international market. This is composed of Japanese SKS51 steel (perhaps unhardened). For its domestic market, Nippy makes the 301 and the 301N, which are both made of hardened German steel, the 301N being harder than the 301. Fortuna, a German company, makes bell knives of only hardened German steel, a Type-S and a Type-K, the latter being more hardened than the former. It seems that the only bell knife worth considering is one made of hardened German steel.

Best steel for making armour?

"I could go on for a while..." at 8m mark. The plight of all blacksmiths. I can't tell you how many people ask a question and I'm like, well I hope you know what your getting yourself into....grab a chair, a drink, and probably a few days worth of food. We are going to be here a while.... Then about 20 minutes later I'm asked to stop because now their head hurts. Steel, so simple, yet so complex. It really is an amazing alloy.

You’re so goddamn valid Skall :,)) Thank you so much for all this high quality content and providing such amazing knowledge and insight into a subject that you’re passionate about, as are we:) bless yah man.

This video is pure gold. I just wish that he were talking a little bit slower, cause i had to listen multiple times to get some phrases

I suddenly feel thrown back to job training... but informative video again!

It's crazy how much steel has progressed in 3 years. Like a sword time maxhine.

Yes thank you!!!! Finally, I knew I wasnt wrong. And that's why 5160 has always been my favorite steel. Great video, highly informative. And extremely helpful. 100 percent agree with everything U guys said. cant beat affordable, and highly durable well forged 5160. It is the best value for your money. since I bought my darksword medieval knight bastard sword last year, and seen a tfw weapon in action, I have been so impressed with 5160 steel. Short story- I made mistake and bought 4 swords from darksword armory website. and I paid extra for sharpening services from darksword armory website also. Spent a ton of money and when the 1st 2 came in, I sent ranting email, only For them to tell me it past the paper test hahaha, anyway long story short, I had to re sharpen all 4 swords I ordered from darksword, by myself. Scratched my favorite one,the bastard, made it too sharp, but did very well on other 3. that steel though. holy crap it took forever with accusharp, and sandpaper but I sharpened all 4(bastard, g.messer,waylander,14 century medieval knights sword-wide blade with profile tapering to a more acute tip has fuller length 3/4 of the blade) to a razor sharp edge with no scratches. Cant believe I was able to do that without vice grip and without scratching them. but after I sharpened that sword properly, it has been my favorite sword I own. I have accidentally smacked against solid wood posts many times, and concrete, dropped it so many times, I have intentionally and unintentionally beat the hell out of that sword for a year and, nothing. That 5160 Blade absorbs shock, resists corrosion and holds its edge like no other blade I own. Love 5160. Love darksword blades(as long as they're sharpened from Kult of athena) I reccomend traditional Filipino weapons of course with the 5160/d2 tool steel mix. Which is the best mix I've seen yet for the price. D2 is the Same steel on my kleins journey linemen pliers(im electrician). So u will be satisfied 5160/d2 tfw weapon. I reccomend both tfw qnd dsa(from koa) for beautiful high quality "affordable" blades that will last forever. Just make sure to order darksword swords from kult of Athena, never order sword off darksword website. Never order their sharpening services. Just look at website for products,then leave website and go over to kult of athena to check for darksword sword availability. I had to find that out the hard way. Took me 5 purchases and many angry emails to darksword before I realized they're not gonna change the quality of sharpening services and go to k.o.a

Excellent info! Really useful as I delve into sword collecting.

thx for highlighting this in the community today

Thanka :D Topic was very interesting and it is nice to know a bit about this beautiful art, the past and the present.

Let's have him again for another episode.

Very good video. I knew some of this but I did learn. Thanks.

Don't forget that 5160 was a popular steel for leaf springs on older trucks. So you can get it real cheap if you're willing to do a bit of extra pounding...

This is why I love steels like 3V and CruWear. Stupid strong, but also have very good edge retention.

Good video. Maybe a follow up some time dealing with some of the more specific-use steels like tool steels and what-not? Some of them can make awesome swords.

To be honest S30V was a huge letdown to me. Sure it stays "sharp" a lot longer but only if you use the word loosely. It loses it's fine razor edge almost immediately so there isn't much of a point going to super high grits when sharpening it. Unless you just want to spend ages polishing it for the looks because it's also one of the hardest steels to sharpen and polish.

I have a 1060 Carbon steel Katana. I plan to use it as a last resort if ever run out of bullets. I hope it’s a good steel

Ive found a site selling custom blades ranging from 1045 to tool steel forget all the numbers and everything else but basically the ones the site say are best for heavy cutting is the tool steel and springsteel.

I really like Damascus steel. Not just for the cool patterns you get on it but it’s usually very hard, good quality steel.

GREAT EXPLANATORY VIDEO !!!

What about surface treatments on the edge, such as nitriding/cementing?

Very nice and handled different opinions and facts and I appreciate this...thank you

Man, I'd love to see a collab with "Alec Steele"!

would like to heard more about 1060

since im stocking up on survival equipment in europes downfall im interested in what my best choices (in metals) would be for 1. tools (for building) and pots (for cooking), 2. ranged weaponry and 3. melee weaponry. my guess as an uneducated person in this field would be 1. i dont know, probably low carbon if any 2. high carbon (but which amount?) and 3. maybe high carbon or springsteel (but i dont know anything about springsteel, except its very durable) as for melee im probably looking for spearpoints and knives, but then again knives are more of a tool. so maybe more like high carbon, cause i wont use a long edge that benefits from springsteel

You guys are awesome. You should check out amazing kk. He does water quenching on things you wouldn't believe would make good blades . Inner shock absorber in a strut is one. I tottaly agree 5160 spring steel. Or most spring steels for swords and machete type To be more specific. Blade lengths 15 plus inches .

Great video! It would be fun to see what the outcome would be if you went all scientific about it and designed the optimal sword using whatever modern technology and materials are (even remotely) available today.

Burning water is an art! I have a slab of "home-mix" steel 1.2%C 2%V 9%Cr 1%Mn. Could this be made into a good blade?

May you please do a follow up video about ballistic AR50-500 steel?

I have worked with edged and blunt weapons of all kinds all my life since the 70's, only had one knife break while I was chopping a 2x4 which was a Buck brand fixed blade hunting knife as an adult in the late 90's. As a child I didn't know or understand edge alignment while chopping down trees until I basically learned myself after years of doing it. A little boy dropping a big tree felt kind of powerful to know I could move an object that large which sometimes took me chopping most of a day with my small bowie knife. Just saying I have had every kind of knife from cheap stainless knives from Taiwan to expensive German forest daggers. The same different imagined worth that other had on axes, swords, spears, bows, maces, machetes, you name it I have owned it however I have never bought a weapon for a thousand dollars or more. To me that is too pretentious when I have bought weapons for two hundred dollars that functioned beyond perfectly, trust me I test each one to the max! I really would love for a KZfaq sword expert to watch the videos of the guy who makes titanium edged weapons using 3 types of welded titanium! The cuts he does on large trees makes it look like his weapons are magical (which of course they are not) even when compared to the best swords and axes that anyone has ever made. Trust me this has been my passion for 40 years and I am waiting for a super alloy that can out function metals that are brand new and especially those ancient metals that everyone cling to just to be historical. Once this happens maybe melee weapons will make a comeback when dealing with close in combat such as room clearing observing the twenty foot rule as you know, might be extended or silent 'purposes' in military operations.

Yo, I was wondering why the classical Hoplite aesthetic of having a six-pack on your cuirass died out after the classical period, and why it didn't come back during the renaissance.

Lol, how did I miss this one! I love steel! 🥰 I have read way too much about all kinds of knife-steels. 😅

"Sure they can corrode if you neglect them." Don't. Take care of your steel, and it will take care of you. If you just want something pretty to hang on your wall, Stainless is fine for that. However, if you want to Work it (Blacksmithy, not simple Stock Removal) different kinds of stainless can be more difficult to fold, hammer weld, and temper, depending on the alloy. That's something to keep in mind, carbon steel is a lot easier to anneal, and re-temper when you're done.

I have a custom fighting knife that’s worked like a champ through a deployment made of S35VN CPM. It cost me $330 and it’s only about “7 overall length. I can’t imagine what a sword made of the same metal would cost.

Super informative video guys thanks for sharing

Blut und Eisen!!!!!

"I've got balls of steeeel." - Duke Nukem

I have had custom knives made by smiths that use very simple steels like O1. They have used them long enough to wring amazing performance from them. I never tell a smith what steel to use, only the knife design and use- then ask them what steel they work with that will perform best. Albion uses simple 1075.

thank you for this video. I got to learn something new.

So, I have a very simple question: what would be the best or better steel for a longsword meant to be used as a medieval knight would?

I have a question. Is tamahagane steel tougher than 1095 high carbon steel?

I would love a video discussing titanium swords and potential titanium alloys to create an extremely hard/shap edge that is also more immune to snapping than any iron alloy could possibly be.

Excellent video, thank you guys

Very well explained after 2 years of hobby blade and knifemaking pattern welding I got a little idea what is going on in the steel universe I did make something very good but I still have to learn very very much . Like he said it depends so much on the right way of heat treatment you can have the best steel in the world and still mess it up easily.

There's a lot of things missing. They only talked about simple carbon steels(1095, 5160) vs high carbide stainless steels(s30v, s90v, s110v). There's a huge myriad of steels in between. You have shock steels like s5, s7, A8 mod, z-tuff/cts-cd1, then there are semi stainless tool steels like 3v, 4v, cruwear family all of which blow most simple carbon steels out of the water in every category except ease of sharpening. Then you have low carbide stainless steels like Aeb-l, Nitro-v, Nitro-b, all sandvik steel, 4116 and others. Aeb-l rivals 52100 in toughness and Nitro-v has way more toughness than 1095. I have a custom chopper made out of it at 60hrc and its kept up with its 80crv2 brother in everything. Takes longer to sharpen but it also holds its edge a bit better. I don't know about making a sword but for a 13 inch blade chopper it works great. I love all steels and have most I've mentioned (z-tuff/cd1 is hard to find unless in customs) and each is great for its own reasons. 3v would make a great chopper but it will cost $75-100 more than 80crv2 or 5160. 12c27 knife will perform like a 1095 one will but the 1095 was hand forged and has that cool rough finish to it vs stock removal 12c27.

I wish someone made a chart showing all the different steels and things

Is 1060 a decent steel for a sword...? I have 2 swords from the HMS Handmade sword company they seem to be really well made.

Straightforward

What about T10 steel and spring steel?

best steel for a throwing knife/normal knife?

Would regularily oiling the blade be feasible for avoiding/reducing rust?