any chance you could tell me where you got the plans? I'm from republic of Georgia trying to do the same thing

Ditto - about to go through this process in the upcoming 24 months.

@@OzarkMountainCabin 100% - Saga would love that!!

@@OzarkMountainCabin my off grid experience is primarily with microhydro, but the 'overpaneling' approach allows some cool ideas with conventional appliances, etc that go against the traditional idea that off grid living is all about avoiding electricity and over-using propane. It's kind of like a good microhydro system, you gotta figure out what to do with extra power. You did the smart thing getting the inverter and battery first! My next step would be to get a inexpensive propane cook top, online water heater, and dual fuel 5k generator, that will later be "back ups" to an 'over paneled' electrical/solar system. My 2 cents rant : )

@@et5222 those are really interesting points indeed. We're rural in Québec, so will be on hydropower for everything and have occasional outages. Building to PassivHaus insulation standards and 'over-batterying' will be our thing as we avoid propane or fossil fuel say all costs. Our back up heat is going to be a tiny wood stove in case of crisis, but over- insulating according to our energy model apparently means that we can let the house sit empty in minus Infinity temperatures and the pipes etc won't freeze unless it's more than two days without heat. This is important because home battery systems are crazy expensive still, ie $16,000 Canadian for a single installed. I could see the insulation as part of the battery system..

@@OzarkMountainCabin Thanks again for the info. I'm trying to decide whether or not I'm going to add a layer of dry wall between the T&G and the tar paper. Without the ventilation the T&G will reach a higher temperature than outside which I've clocked at 115° with my thermal camera while the sun hits it. I've got to do something and would prefer to have the extra layer of foam instead of dry wall.

@@OzarkMountainCabin Good to know, I was wondering about this as well. We’re thinking of building PassivHaus for a chalet an hour north of Montréal, ie two hours north of Burlington VT, climate region six I believe. I’m not sure about your estimates of our humidity levels either btw. ;) -pretty much everyone leans toward a heat pump now because of cheap carbon free electricity and to have cooling in summer. (We get in the low nineties Fahrenheit and 90% humidity in summer, and down to minus forty F in winter and 10% humidity.) Anyway, very entertaining and informative, thanks for doing this video and I’ve subscribed to see how things evolve -!

@@OzarkMountainCabin that is an awesome link, js

First js acroynym-shorthand I’ve ever seen, js (if my guess is correct)

@@OzarkMountainCabin thanks!!!!

@@OzarkMountainCabin oh that was something thanks for that! but I was referring to your vertical edge ends of the roof looked like corner edging strip was screwed on top of long panel. Thought water could wick under there maybe not

@@OzarkMountainCabin That is fantastic, it looks great so far! I do have a lot of questions and will probably have more as I progress the drawing set. I based my design off the same plan but increased the height, I also have made the assumption to do so will require deeper members, closer to what is sized on plan 6004 and with the intent of using an 8' bay....So questions! 1.Since there are no cavity walls at the interior perimeter of the cabin how do plan on running outlets and conduit? (I did notice on your cathedral ceiling video conduit running the vertical length of the last front bay.) 2. What is your floor assembly at level 01, insulation etc? 3. I'm attempting an r-30 roof as this will be a home in Colorado, I need to minimize the roof thickness to also fasten a standing seam roof, what made you size up your purlins to 2x4's? was this for airgap and a robust scaffold? I'm pondering the same setup of purlin pattern but with 1x4's and poly iso to get the roof thickness to a minimum and not end up needing a 12" fastener to reach the tongue and groove! Like I said I'm an Architect so please feel free to ask any questions on constructions details as well! Thanks for sharing your project on youtube!!! Keep hammering!

@@OzarkMountainCabin appreciate the explanation! I do not know to work in Go, will try and see what I can do with Python. Thanks and looking forward to viewing your progress with the cabin.

@@OzarkMountainCabin I appreciate the response and the info. Cheers!

The only public domain drawings I know of are the ones NDSU has - they have at least three different A-frame ones though: www.ag.ndsu.edu/extension-aben/buildingplans

Sure, there's a lot of assemblies that are set up like that! I'd look for something that's a recommended assembly - like a recommended set of layers, materials and thickness ranges - there's some non-intuitive stuff where the relative thicknesses of the inside and outside insulation can cause condensation. If you add a vapor-impermeable layer on the inside of the wood, like a vapor barrier or foam board insulation, that would restrict the woods ability to dry, so you'd want to be careful that whatever you do allows some way for the assembly to breathe still

EPS = Expanded PolyStyrene foam. Nothing "eats" it, but WILL burrow thru it. Use firebreaks! (Polystyrene is a solid form of gasoline) That London highrise that was burning on the outside a while back, that was sheathed in EPS without a firebreak.

No, no condensation, mold growth or anything like that, so far at least!

Awesome. I am all t&g because it will breath and not mold. I’m banking on anyways.

@@OzarkMountainCabin I read ants like foam or is that not an issue? Thanks.

@@OzarkMountainCabin Can you take a look at my aframe insualtion and tell me if you see any prooblems drive.google.com/file/d/1EvMvhOQ8WrY1OgLFbnUY8GogtNaTYdND/view?usp=sharing

@@OzarkMountainCabin thank you very much for your reply!!! Don’t worry about being a bad youtuber, I understand that you have a life outside of the internet. My wife has a channel too and it takes a lot of time to keep it going. I’m glad you guys are doing well! Have you moved in yet? So we actually have insulation inside our military tent. It actually looks like a cabin on the inside. I do see your point in saving money long term in heating. We are planning to put two layers of r10 foam boards. So r20 in total. I plan on keeping the framing exposed as you did, and don’t want to mess with finerglass insulation and doing the t&g on the inside. As one of your points in a t&g video you made. I am planning on making the T&g my self though, to save on cost. I am going to use a dado blade on my tablesaw and doing it this way. I know it’s a lot of work, but the savings is substantial. I even considered buying a shaper machine. What I haven’t figured out yet is the size of the beams I’m going to use for foundation and how far to space concrete piers. I was thinking 3 2x10’s sandwich together, possibly 4. Do you think 8ft or 10ft on concrete spacing? There will be 3 rows and 3 beams running. My other dilema is in the roof top. With the insulation adding 8” from both sides. I ether have to cut the high of the A frame, or go for longer metal roof. Because I’d like to use 2 12’ panels. Which would be just shy of 24’ long. Not sure about this yet. Thank you again!!!!

Honestly really good! We did this whole summer without the generator, just solar panels, batteries and AC running the whole time. Winter we still need to run the wood stove for comfort heat, but it's 100% livable year around. We will see when a 100-year winter cold comes in one of these days, but at least so far so good.

@@OzarkMountainCabin BFE is a euphemistic initialism used to avoid explicit vulgarity.