Having run track equipment most of my life, I have never seen rust on a track that’s mobile, never. It polishes up like Crome, very clean. If it sits for a couple on month’s, it will rust up, but not as much as you think.

A really lovely result Jason. Fantastic realism. Your modelling just goes from strength to strength.

The Jerry can history is interesting. It was the most looted item in the German warfront. Everyone wanted it because of its design. It's just so good. Loots of imitations still, but the 1:1 copy is still the best. It's funny when you perfect a form, it's just perfect.

Great work, Jason! I'm happy to see you didn't go the "slap on as much mud as you can 'till you can barely see the tank" route; I don't like overkill anyway. Masterful weathering and painting!

Wow Jason. The first set of images with the background... We are looking at a real tank. The weathering and details, mounted on a base... It just comes to life. Awesome work. And yes, I very much enjoy the content. Thank you for sharing.

Empty jerrycans were often welded straight to the turret sides to act as a stand-off armour against shaped charge infantry weapons such as the Panzerfaust, much the same idea as the wire frames welded to Soviet tanks in Berlin. It was common amongst British crews to weld metal boxes in place rather than trying to tie them down with rope, Crossing rough terrain rope could snap and leave gear behind. On the march stowage would often be piled high on flat decks and lashed to tie-downs around the turret, but once it looked likely that the tanks were going to engage the enemy the stowage was left behind for lorries of the B echelon to collect and carry forward.

Nice build, I love the stowage, more is more, they had to carry absolutely everything and then some, thanks.

Nice work Jason, the kit and base turned out a treat.

Hi Jason Fantastic results and a great tutorial! Thanks for sharing your work and techniques once again mate ❤😊😊

At first I thought it was a real tank on the thumbnail 😂😂

When I left school many many years ago I got a job where I ended up driving a bulldozer towing a huge roller to compact roads on what became the start of Thamesmead. The dozer was continually running day in and day out and the tracks were actually quite polished in their look. If it was dry they looked like bright steel. If it was wet then they would be muddy but this mud quickly wore off when the ground dried. Also the whole track was bright metal. On a dozer the tracks consist of a centre chain with the track pads bolted to this chain. The back of the track pads are not in contact with the wheels, sprocket or return rollers but still get bright by the action of dirt, gravel and stones rolling on them. I am sure tank tracks would look quite bright if they are continually driven. The tanks we see at shows and museums are either static or infrequently driven but in war time they will be driven a lot.

Excellent build, painting & weathering Jason!👍I love that your tank's hull & running gear look like they've been wallowing in the mud, but the kit's wonderful rivets, bolt heads & other details are not lost. Furthermore, I like how the tracks look like they've sunk into the mud a bit, which is quite realistic, as northern Germany was very rainy & extremely muddy in Jan./Feb./March of 1945 (..which had a real effect on how Monty's plans played out..).👍 BTW & FWIW, I tend to greatly limit rust effects, because, from what I understand (a) most tanks in WWII were constantly in use & wearing off any rust that may have begun to form, plus (b) most tanks didn't last long enough to get noticeably rusted (e.g. in the war between Germany & the U.S.S.R., the lifespan of Soviet tanks was less than a week, and German tanks didn't last much longer., especially after 1942..) Having said all that, I think that the rust effects underneath the mud/dust effects you used look absolutely fantastic, so you've proven that 'different strokes for different folks' is legit & how 'artistic licence' enhances the final product!👍 Last, but not least...I agree 100% regarding Tamiya's molded-on handles, especially with their most recent WWII tanks used by western allies. In addition to your point that virtually every other manufacturer does a much better job with handles, I will add that there are examples of where Tamiya actually does provide separate handles for certain points on a tank (e.g. their nice JS-2 kit).🙄

Very very good result, enjoy all tips and hints given. Thank you.

Hi mate, looking forward to building this kit! Its a shame a photo etch grille is not included for the rear of the upper hull, it would just top it off. I suppose you can get one as a detail up part. Nice work, cheerz 👍

This model is very well made! Thank you for sharing the process, it is a good reference for me.🌟😊

I thought the pic in the thread was real. Crazy great work.

Very nice and great inspiration, thanks from sweden🇸🇪

Fantastic result Jason. The weathering is perfect for this model - just the right amount. I really enjoyed this series, and hope to see more armour on the channel soon. Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺!

The Comet is such a cool tank. Nice build ✨👍✨

a beautiful job - extremely convincing modelling

Firstly Jason, I am in total agreement, Tamiya should be moulding seperate handles, they might be small, but such is life, they still have a lot to 'learn' from some of the newer kit manufacturers, this was a excellent build and paint finish, very best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia 👍👍👍👍

Great work. I will have to buy it now and give it a go. Best wishes from the Gold Coast in Australia.

Another great video Jason

Really nice build 👏

Spectacular

Nice job on that kit! I am building this same kit right now, and I am making it right out of the box also. I certainly agree it is a great kit by Tamiya! Just one thing though...why didn't you do some weathering on the crew figures? Anyway, Nice work!

Great photos!

18:20 he my friend glad u put up a video love your videos man keep up good work dude greetzz from HOLLAND 🇳🇱🤘🏻👊🏻👌🏼🤗😊

lovely kit mine is painted in battle ship grey

I love the Lifecolor rust tones. The way I go about using them is dark to light (the same as yourself), but when I get to the 2 lightest “yellow” tones I thin them a lot and randomly slap them on kinda wet blending into each other (but not actually blending as such). Just adding them very wet onto each other and then set the tracks aside to let them dry. Then personally I use graphite dust rather than a pencil. Jobs a good un.

Hey Jason, great video, I don’t something similar to a 1/35 Churchill recently, with snow effects, but no storage 😂, looks fantastic, regards Liam

It looks like you used Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Set to fasten the track sections to each other . Were the join surfaces unpainted ? Or does the Quick Set work through the paint? Great video . I enjoy that you don't take your work too seriously.

You're right -- when dry your weathering is ver subtle, very effective. You can't see it when wet so have to use faith when applying it. How hard is it to remove if you don't like the final effect?

👍👍👍😀

Hi. Nicely done model. Good video as well. Just a query: you were using tamiya extra thin cement on painted parts? Does it adhere?

Please provide the link to part 2. Thanks.

🤝🎥👍

Nice job buddy, from Ocala Florida, what kind of putty is on the caps ? It holds the equipment to be painted

Very interesting video BUT simply don't get the reason behind painting with Tamiya then covering that with MRP as it make's no sense whatsoever..?

I’m constantly baffled as to why Tamiya decals are so thick and unwieldy. Tamiya make such well engineered (if with some simplified details like the handles) kits that are really nice to build (their car kits are awesome) … so why can’t they do decent decals? Grrrrr.

Looks like a toy imo...

hmmmm seen better dont give up your day job