Yes he actually did that

It sure is more precise then the standard way of using it. Maybe a lot of us can have one finished before the holidays 😂

And then there's me that couldn't ass myself with getting bed PID tuned so just screw it and let it go in bang-bang mode and call it a day.

@@Kalvinjj if this helps in any way: Once i PID tuned my ender via octoprint, the temps were unstable as hell. Went back to bang-bang and its just fine. Dont bother with PID.

It was definitely an improvement haha😆

😂

🤣 THIS

Now you have to print an induction grill with your new edm printer.

Looks like we got a bed for the infini Z

Nederlands

​@@valentijnbakker2166dus?

I'm almost finished with the upcoming video and it is my biggest project so far in a single video. Thanks for watching everything!

Thanks!

Thank you Courtney!

Thanks man, it was awesome and I'm glad you were there!

Thanks Ethan, I really appreciate that! Never stop making!

I sang it myself!😁

Thanks Jens!

That drill press is junk 😅 I 3D printed the base because the original base wasn't perpendicular. I'm looking forward to it!

Hi Jens, I'm doing great thanks! I hope you do too. The printer I'm building is starting to come together and I'm also working on several other projects!

@@properprintingAhhh that's great to hear! So a bunch of nice things to come eh? Love it. Here it's going well too. You were right, I did pass the 100 subs that month. At 250 now 🎉 looking forward to seeing you again at Maakplek and your new work 😊

I've considered 19" racks too and I think that this is a great idea! Especially when you make the printer with the flanges, so you can place it in any standard rack just like the regular equipment. Awesome that you're actually doing it, good luck!

Thankyou sir, thats actually a pretty cool idea as well. mine was going to be hard baked in but, making it modular could ad some needless complexity which i tend to gravitate towards. Or transforming the printer from a horizontal bed movement to a vertical bed movement (Ender 5 style) to facilitate dual opposing hotend setup for simultaneous mirror image printing.. Tuning might be enough to drive you insane though. @@properprinting

Even got the limited edition black shaft, what a baller

There's a reason you don't see anyone selling filament as thick as glue sticks... 🤦‍♂

@@DrakeOola why? Thermal conductivity would be tough, but with enough torque and heating tool surface area you don’t think it would work? I’m really trying to make this happen, why do you think it’s not worth pursuing?

@@0hellow797 It's not that it wouldn't work at all, it's that it would just work worse in every way compared to filament. You'd need a lot of heat and an extremely precise and extremely powerful extruder. You'd need a lot of heat because you're trying to melt, from the sides in towards the center, a stick of plastic with a cross-sectional area over 30x that of a 1.75mm filament. Since you can't just turn up the heater temperature to increase the heating rate (the plastic on the outside would burn), you'd just have to wait for a long time before printing to let a suitable amount of plastic melt. Similarly, it would take a long time for the hotend to cool down, leading to lots of oozing out the nozzle once the print is finished. It'd have to be extremely precise because you're going from a 10mm diameter stick to a 0.4mm diameter nozzle, about a 630x reduction. Meaning, in order to print a line that 1mm long, you'd need to move the extruder a distance of 0.0016mm or 1.6 microns. Considering that 3d printers make many moves shorter than 1mm, you'd have to be able to control the extruder's movement on the scale of tenths of a micron, which is a lot to ask of a hobby grade machine. Finally, the extruder would have to be very strong because, again, it's pushing a stick of plastic through a 630x reduction hole. Consider that a normal extruder can usually generate several kgs of force (I know it's not technically force but too bad) with a 1.75mm filament. Grabbing a number from the middle range, say 4kg, that's a pressure of about 40bar at the tip of the nozzle. To get that same 40bar pressure with a 10mm diameter stick, the extruder would have to push with about 130kg, which is both hard to do and would require a very beefy hotend assembly to not break apart. Overall, it would be very difficult to make and just wouldn't have any advantages over filament. It's a cool idea and absolutely don't let my speech deter you from trying out your ideas, often the greatest inventions come from wild ideas. If you're really interested in making filament recycling more accessible, I would say your time is better spent trying to improve the methods of creating filament at home. Cheaper and more reliable machines for shredding and extruding filament would help tremendously in making recycling more suitable to hobbyists.

@@jblack3761 you have no idea how much this amount of info will help, I’ve really had no where to start…

@@jblack3761 looks like I’ll be printing with muuuch larger nozzles I think haha

Thanks! A combination of measuring and eyeballing is the route I took.

No idea how much it warps, but I don't think it's that different than usual when printing at normal temperatures

@@properprinting Bruh.. jump from 1:20 to 2:20 you can literally see the entire center of the plate moved at least a centimeter.

@@bubbasplants189 haha sh*t you're right, well spotted. Well, looks like it needs some reinforcement😅

​@@properprinting Lol yeah shouldn't be terrible. You'll be good after you reinforce it and add the glass plate on top. Looking forward to the printing.

Just don't forget an abl for nice straight pieces of "speklap" 😁

That will bring back the good memories😆