Any paint will work for scenery. Thinking about light and shadow methodically, before anything, is key. Then, deciding if one wants a warm look or a cool look. I use Tamiya (due to superior "flat" pigments over craft paint), because I really don't have much terrain to cover when you think about it. I like to "white out" my terrain first, then build up thin "umber" layers so I can correct color shade. Black to light works well for small details but tends to turn "muddy" with terrain. Rock shadow depends on the base color (from a long distance view through the atmospheric lens). I generally like to add blue, green or brown washes for shadow depending on other factors like: If I want a warm feel to the rock, I use Umbers (Browns). If I want a cool feel, I use Blues and Greens. For neutral, I stay with grays. I usually finish highlights with beige (cool) or flesh (warm). I prefer (very thin and light) flesh, applied with the airbrush, because it embodies the mauve shade which seems to be the magic filter we see in all terrain due to the atmospheric light spectrum throughout the warmer seasons. ;-) Cheers.

Great suggestion!

I am so glad to hear you are inspired, and thus, find happiness and comfort in a fantastic hobby we all share. Thanks again for sharing that. It means alot to my inspiration as well. Cheers ~ Boomer.

Thank you. I appreciate that. Cheers ~ Boomer.

Thank You. Glad you enjoy it! ~ Boomer.

That's cool you use the antique tool for modeling. Very cool indeed. Sculpta -mold is fantastic product. Other names are Celluclay, Fast Mache. etc. Very under-rated product. You can do almost anything with it depending on how much water you add. Good stuff.

You are so welcome!

Have fun!

Thanks. Yes . . . the vacuum. The foam debris can be painful to clean up at times. Good thing I'm only using a small amount.

It's a great modelling medium for sure.

Have fun!

Yes. Wire brush works great as well. I prefer a knife due to the foam dust. I had enough of it in the industry. Cheers.

It sure is!

Yes. Brutal stuff this way for sure. During my film industry days it was everywhere. I mean everywhere. I probably ingested some as well . . . lol.

That is awesome!

Glad it was helpful! You must be binge watching . . . Thank you!

@@boomerdiorama I am but I have also been taking pages and pages of notes, from technique to material, etc. Amazing channel!

Yes, thank you

Thank you very much for replying to my comment. I have a new video out now. Hope you like and share.@@boomerdiorama

Me neither . . . lol. What do I know, I'm just an artist.

Thank You and you are welcome. I hope you find some foam soon!

Foam has it's advantages for sure. Light weight is one of them . . . which I like.

Thank you! Cheers!

I saw some grey foam the other day as well. Thanks for sharing!

We used to use torched on foam in film for a certain look as well. Cheers.

Not sure if you’ve tried this, but mist some water on the foam before you torch it. Incredible textures can be achieved this way.

Yes. It's a great modeling medium. Nice and light weight as well!

What is stone dust, brand and vendor please, I'm new to this?

@@file1man I have never used "stone dust." I just use fine aluminum Oxide sand which is normally used for sand blasting. I imagine a sand blasting shop supply would have it. Cheers.

@@file1man Stone dust is used on freshly laid concrete to give a very smooth shiny surface. It is very fine and applied after troweling the concrete level with a wooden float. They wait 3 to four hours, sprinkle on this dust (very finely ground stone) and then troweled in with a steel float. It has no brand I gather from a concrete supplier in and ice cream carton close to where I live in Australia. Trust this helps.

I see a model in everything I look at in life . . . lol. I use almost anything or everything I can get my hands on. Real stone, real dirt, real wood, etc.

Thanks 👍

Lol . . . Beauty is in the eye of the beholder they say. Cheers.

@@boomerdiorama "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, get it out with Optrex", the late and great Spike Milligan.

I'm not sure, but any foam will work, especially if you only use it to build up and fill space. It all gets covered mostly anyway. The point is "light weight" and ease of sculpting.

The only time I don't use Varathane or Urethane to seal wood is when I use "Matte" medium directly on the wood for ground texture. Having said this, I like to always seal with (water-born) varathane one side when it comes to bench work. It prevents warping and extreme compression or lateral movement. The down side to model railroad benchwork is expansion and retraction. Most notably with cheap soft wood or poor grade plywood, which usually does not occur right away, but several years later. We can reduce the latter if we seal the plywood (good quality) one side, and still allow it to breath. I hope that helps some. Cheers.😁

Hey Boomer. Thanks for the reply. Yes your explanation makes sense. What I didn’t realize was you only treat one side. I had assumed you treated all sides. Budget restraints are limiting what I can do right now but I’m planning a 1X2 foot display scene. I haven’t yet decided on 1 inch foam on birch ply or cork on ply. I want some elevation to provide a drainage ditch or narrow creek running on the length of the front edge. Knowing more about it will help with decision making now and when I am able to build the shelf layout I’m planning. Again, thanks for everything Boomer.

Thank You. Life couldn't be better to have both health and modeling passion. Cheers.

I use PL300 for gluing foam down. You need the cheap metal plunger (glue gun) because they are cartridges in the construction department. Fairly cheap though. Make sure you put a good bead down, press the foam down, lift it up (to get air into the stringy glue), then press down firm again. It takes about a week to cure. But it won't come up under most conditions. See this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gZl7iqR5ptqxZ58.html

@@boomerdiorama Awesome! Thank you so much - keep up the great content!

"Old School" is fine for larger areas if one chooses. Foam can be expensive. I just happen to have lots kicking around from the past. I only use it for scenery like this. I also don't build road bed on foam. I shared all this in a previous Vlog here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qbSnns9krcumfYk.html

A matte medium glaze, at the end, fixes everything . . . Cheers.

Yes. Foam has been around for awhile now. Lot's of ways to use it for sure.

I use Golden Acrylic Titanium white. It needs to be good quality - not cheap craft paint. Often times I will do rock faces like this with Sculptamold (Activa) if I want additional textures.

Soon. Cheers.

It doesn't matter. Either way works. ;-)

I usually seal it first with matte medium and white paint. Then I will airbrush it some. Cheers.

It's tough to find 2" foam these days and it is very expensive. I just happened to have some I saved knowing I would need it one day . . . and sure enough! Cheers.

Crazy fun!

Apply long angle slices first across the face, then come back and chip away. Change up the routine as well by trying different tools etc. Cut slivers out without chipping. Change up your application often on the fly. etc. Study photos! Cheers.

I also like it for filling in gaps like along the facia. But yes, foam is cool. Cheers.

That is possible in film where we would use big foam spray guns for massive walls etc. Really tough to remove as well. I destroyed many a pair of blue jeans using the stuff. Cheers.