Nova Scotia has a natural affinity for fiddleheads. The tasty greens - the young, furled fronds of the ostrich fern that grows wild along our rivers, streams and marshes - are abundant throughout our province in early spring when they are readily available in grocery stores and markets. Delicate in taste and packed with nutrients, they are a traditional seasonal treat that has been enjoyed by generations of Nova Scotians. They also bear a strong resemblance to the carved head of a fiddle, one of Nova Scotia’s beloved traditional musical instruments.
But fiddleheads are finicky because if they aren’t washed and cooked properly they can make you sick. “They have toxins which can cause gastrointestinal illness if they’re eaten raw or undercooked. Symptoms include nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, stomach cramps, and headache,” says Dr. Robin Taylor, Medical Officer of Health for the Nova Scotia Health Authority’s Central Zone.
“We don’t actually know what the toxin is, beyond the fact that it’s naturally occurring. The other mystery is that the toxin doesn’t affect everyone in the same way - not everyone gets sick, only some people,” says Dr. Taylor.
The symptoms, she explains, generally appear within 30 minutes to 12 hours of eating the fiddleheads and can last up to 24 hours. “For most people, the best way to treat the illness is to stay hydrated and rest. But anyone who has concerns about dehydration - for example, because of a medical condition they might have - could call 811 or their doctor,” says Dr. Taylor.
Dr. Taylor says that fiddleheads, “are an excellent local food. They’re nutritious and delicious and if they’re prepared properly, they make a great side dish.”
She recommends carefully washing the fiddleheads to remove as much of the brown husk as possible, washing them in several changes of fresh cold water, and cooking them by either boiling for 15 minutes or steaming them for 10-12 minutes. Be sure to discard the cooking water and not re-use it, and if you plan on sautéing the fiddleheads, be sure to boil or steam them first.
Shawn Dwyer, Executive Chef, Restaurant Services, for the Central Zone, is a fiddlehead fan. “They’re delicious and versatile. You can substitute fiddleheads in many recipes that use asparagus because they have similar flavor profiles.”
One of his favourite ways to prepare fiddleheads is to sauté them, after boiling, with a little garlic, lemon juice, and butter or olive oil. “You can use them in soups and salads. They make a nice spring salad with a light vinaigrette dressing. You can also freeze them but you have to cook them first,” says Dwyer.
Chef Dwyer has some tips for making sure the fiddleheads you buy are fresh and have the best flavor. “Look for a nice solid green colour with tightly wrapped fronds. Don’t be concerned about the browning at the end of the stock where they’ve been cut - you can just cut that off. But you don’t want browning through the stock or loose fronds that fall apart.”
For those who prefer to forage for wild fiddleheads, Chef Dwyer cautions that, “you need to make sure they’re ostrich ferns because not all ferns that grow in Nova Scotia are edible. If you’re not 100% confident, you should go with someone who knows.”
The fiddlehead season lasts about a month in Nova Scotia. This year’s crop is late because of an unusually harsh winter and high amounts of snowfall. Yet for many of us, including Shawn Dwyer, fiddleheads are worth the wait. “They’re one of our first spring vegetables. When they come out it’s time to light up the barbeque, cook up a fiddlehead side dish, and say goodbye to winter!”
If you’re looking for a new and delicious way to try fiddleheads, try Chef Dwyer’s Spring Fiddlehead Pasta.
And for maximum enjoyment, don’t forget to clean and cook your fiddleheads properly before you eat them. Fiddleheads are NOT a good candidate for the raw vegetables and dip tray!
“Cook them well and enjoy!” says Dr. Taylor.
RECIPE (compliments of Chef Shawn Dwyer)
One of my favourite ways to prepare fiddleheads is, once they are cleaned and boiled (for 15 minutes) or steamed (for 10-12 minutes), to simply sauté them with some garlic and lemon. Take about 2 cups of these washed and cooked fiddleheads, sauté on medium heat in a Tbsp. of olive oil with 1 clove minced garlic for 2-3 minutes. Then add 1 Tbsp. lemon juice and a few zests of lemon peel with a little sea salt and serve.